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      04-29-2020, 07:13 PM   #925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatM3guy View Post
I ran the codes, and it was for a cam position sensor, bank A---anyone have a picture of which wire the cam position sensors are?
Cam position sensor is on top of each valve cover.
Item number 13 on the drawing. It would be on the A bank side of the car.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4115
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      04-29-2020, 11:25 PM   #926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX View Post
Cam position sensor is on top of each valve cover.
Item number 13 on the drawing. It would be on the A bank side of the car.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_4115
thanks. It was that connector and it was visibly loose. I reconnected and problem solved.
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      05-24-2020, 11:55 PM   #927
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Thank you so much for the detailed how to guide, many years ago I had the throttle actuators fail on a European trip in my E63 M6, 2000 miles in limp home mode wasn't fun with the original goal 200mph!

So I decided to follow your guide and replace the throttle actuators with uprated items as a preventative maintenance measure on my E92 M3. One actuator was an original 2008, the other was a 2017. The 2008 wasn't in great shape missing teeth, the 2017 was already eroding.

After changing them I noticed that in non-sport mode the car had much better pick up. Since my car is one of the oldest, highest mileage variants many of the connectors were brittle but using a WD40 'moisturiser' certainly helped.

Thanks again, your guide did make me laugh a few times, ensuring the frustration was limited. The 1/4" flexible driver was a life saver, and also accessing the engine bay from different angles for the plenum removal.
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      05-27-2020, 01:54 AM   #928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
Background:

Feedback on how I did with this DIY is welcomed. This is my first write-up and first time I've done a job with essentially no guide to follow. If you see anything that could be done better, let me know.

Good luck!
Thank you for this write up! It will definitely come in handy when I replace these things.

Today I got the P1628 code after I parked my car and accidentally hit the start button again. The car went into acc mode and I got tons of lights and limp mode. I turned the car all the way on and it was in limp mode while idling. I let the car sit for a few hours then checked the codes again and cleared the sole P1628 code. I cleared that code like 5 times in total then noticed redline was at 7k, no limp mode. I took the car for a spin and stopped at gas station to pick up a quart of oil to clear the low engine oil warning I got earlier today. Started the car back up and waited for the oil level to read then drove back home. I drove normally through the neighborhood, nothing crazy. Is this common? Is this a warning that I should just replace TBA1 since the car already went into limp mode? Finally, where is everyone getting their TBAs from these days? I see bimmerworld has them for $542, have the prices come down from the $800 days?

Thanks!
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      05-28-2020, 11:52 AM   #929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedScytheM3 View Post
Thank you for this write up! It will definitely come in handy when I replace these things.

Today I got the P1628 code after I parked my car and accidentally hit the start button again. The car went into acc mode and I got tons of lights and limp mode. I turned the car all the way on and it was in limp mode while idling. I let the car sit for a few hours then checked the codes again and cleared the sole P1628 code. I cleared that code like 5 times in total then noticed redline was at 7k, no limp mode. I took the car for a spin and stopped at gas station to pick up a quart of oil to clear the low engine oil warning I got earlier today. Started the car back up and waited for the oil level to read then drove back home. I drove normally through the neighborhood, nothing crazy. Is this common? Is this a warning that I should just replace TBA1 since the car already went into limp mode? Finally, where is everyone getting their TBAs from these days? I see bimmerworld has them for $542, have the prices come down from the $800 days?

Thanks!
i actually triggered limp mode by accidentally pressing my foot on the accelerator by accident before starting. never came back after a reset.
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      05-28-2020, 04:44 PM   #930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohmygodzirra View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedScytheM3 View Post
Thank you for this write up! It will definitely come in handy when I replace these things.

Today I got the P1628 code after I parked my car and accidentally hit the start button again. The car went into acc mode and I got tons of lights and limp mode. I turned the car all the way on and it was in limp mode while idling. I let the car sit for a few hours then checked the codes again and cleared the sole P1628 code. I cleared that code like 5 times in total then noticed redline was at 7k, no limp mode. I took the car for a spin and stopped at gas station to pick up a quart of oil to clear the low engine oil warning I got earlier today. Started the car back up and waited for the oil level to read then drove back home. I drove normally through the neighborhood, nothing crazy. Is this common? Is this a warning that I should just replace TBA1 since the car already went into limp mode? Finally, where is everyone getting their TBAs from these days? I see bimmerworld has them for $542, have the prices come down from the $800 days?

Thanks!
i actually triggered limp mode by accidentally pressing my foot on the accelerator by accident before starting. never came back after a reset.
That's crazy how we've had seeming minor actions trigger limp mode. That's why I'm skeptical of the TBAs are ready to be replaced. I've been driving my car since I reset it that night and everything seems fine. I did a couple hard pulls with WOT to get on the freeway shifting around 8 krpm. Nothing was triggered. Ill just keep an eye on it for now I guess
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      06-29-2020, 09:49 PM   #931
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So after 5+ hours I have successfully replaced my throttle actuator bank 1 and free from limp mode but now I have a check engine light with the following code 002764 Vanos valve outlet bank 1.

Can anyone show me an illustration on what I should be looking at and how to go about resolving this? Car seems to run fine but something does seem a bit off in terms of continued acceleration throughout the powerband like a slight hesitation at higher speed and shifting gear.
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      06-29-2020, 10:02 PM   #932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 111turbo View Post
So after 5+ hours I have successfully replaced my throttle actuator bank 1 and free from limp mode but now I have a check engine light with the following code 002764 Vanos valve outlet bank 1.

Can anyone show me an illustration on what I should be looking at and how to go about resolving this? Car seems to run fine but something does seem a bit off in terms of continued acceleration throughout the powerband like a slight hesitation at higher speed and shifting gear.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...39#11367843117

bank 1 would be passenger side of car. Looks to be the front connector.
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      07-05-2020, 10:26 PM   #933
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I believe my TA went bad, but the cheap code scanner I was using didn't show me any codes. I got the engine malfunction, reduced power, DBC and yadayada inactivated, limp mode. Do you guys replace both TA's at once and where do you order them from? Prefer something with upgraded internals and lifetime warranty, so far I've found this... https://www.mpowermotorsports.org/ . TIA!
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      07-05-2020, 10:55 PM   #934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigermack View Post
I believe my TA went bad, but the cheap code scanner I was using didn't show me any codes. I got the engine malfunction, reduced power, DBC and yadayada inactivated, limp mode. Do you guys replace both TA's at once and where do you order them from? Prefer something with upgraded internals and lifetime warranty, so far I've found this... https://www.mpowermotorsports.org/ . TIA!
Replace them both. They will both have the same gear wear and the second one wont be far behind. You can buy from the guys you linked or buy new from fcpeuro with lifetime replacement warranty. It seems a lot of people go with the Mpower rebuild TAs that you already linked. Mpower will want your cores back.
You might want to inquire about their inventory before placing an order.
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      07-07-2020, 06:17 AM   #935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigermack View Post
I believe my TA went bad, but the cheap code scanner I was using didn't show me any codes. I got the engine malfunction, reduced power, DBC and yadayada inactivated, limp mode. Do you guys replace both TA's at once and where do you order them from? Prefer something with upgraded internals and lifetime warranty, so far I've found this... https://www.mpowermotorsports.org/ . TIA!
I'm a firm believer of replacing one at a time. When I wrote this DIY years ago, my car was on original TAs. First one failed at maybe 61k miles, second one didn't fail until 82k miles or something like that. At the amount of miles I drive, that was a good 3 years afterwards too. Some people have made it over 100k miles on original TA's. It's not that difficult to replace them, so I don't see the point on dropping that much money on something that's not broken yet.

First time around, I bought the TA from dealership. Second time I got it from FCP and will just replace them as needed with their warranty. Not too familiar with these upgraded parts if I'm completely honest.
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      07-07-2020, 10:55 PM   #936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
I'm a firm believer of replacing one at a time. When I wrote this DIY years ago, my car was on original TAs. First one failed at maybe 61k miles, second one didn't fail until 82k miles or something like that. At the amount of miles I drive, that was a good 3 years afterwards too. Some people have made it over 100k miles on original TA's. It's not that difficult to replace them, so I don't see the point on dropping that much money on something that's not broken yet.

First time around, I bought the TA from dealership. Second time I got it from FCP and will just replace them as needed with their warranty. Not too familiar with these upgraded parts if I'm completely honest.
I know for sure one of them were replaced, just wasn't sure if it was both when I bought the car in 2018, less than 7k miles since. I have to find the paperwork or scan codes with a better scanner to see any codes. My cheapo $20 scanner didn't pull any codes regarding that, only DTC inactivated.
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