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      05-29-2014, 09:47 AM   #89
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wow thanks for the thorough write up dude! I have been debating on these kits for a year already! Very very VERY helpful write up!!! Thanks a million!!!!!
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      06-24-2014, 12:11 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swifty View Post
Great thread. I wish someone would study the newer options that are out now like Swift springs (linear) and Ohlins Road & Track.
Yes, please!

I noticed that my Swift Spec-R springs seem to have been designed around the limitations JAJ noted for lowering springs: minimal ride height reduction, front spring rate far in excess of 200lb, rear spring rate that is not too much stiffer than stock.

I've been exceptionally pleased with my Swift springs and stock (EDC) dampers. I've had Eibach and H&R lowering springs on previous BMWs and the Swifts are really in a different league.

I'm also very curious to see what the experts think of Ohlins R&T, seems like a very well designed coilover.
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      08-21-2014, 08:08 AM   #91
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Well, I am thinking about ordering THE DDC KW SUSPENSION with WLAN module. Anyone has used this?
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      01-29-2016, 12:30 PM   #92
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That was very informative thread, what has happened?
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      12-22-2019, 04:40 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swifty View Post
Great thread. I wish someone would study the newer options that are out now like Swift springs (linear) and Ohlins Road & Track.
I recently installed Ohlins Road & Track Coilover and wrote about it here (with more information on spring rates, alignment and height settings, etc.): https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=99

Summary of my experience with Ohlins - As previously mentioned, as I put on the miles in the M3, I've noticed some problems with the stock M3 suspension: Comfort setting is overly soft with lots of body roll, Normal setting not much different from Comfort, and Sport setting very harsh/jittery, yet still with body roll. There is an overall ponderous/lazy feel to the M3. In many ways the problems here are similar to my P. Turbo: it's much more of a grand touring, than a true sports car.

After much reading/research, I narrowed the choice down to the Ohlins Road & Track and had it installed by Auto Talent in LA. Initial impression was, thankfully, what had bothered me most about the stock M3, the lazy/ponderous handling, has been taken care of by upgrading to the Ohlins coilover.

Ohlins Road and Track has made the M3 fully competitive with my Bilstein Turbo in "fun factor." My M3 is now a more tightly wound sports car and hugs mountain roads beautifully. The excessive body roll of stock M3 is gone, so is the jittery stiffness of the sport setting. Stock M3 also has a certain laziness in steering response that bothered me greatly and that has now been eliminated. The more sporty Ohlins suspension is firmer, but there is definitely more grace in handling road imperfections. Suspension mod btw alters the subjective sensation of power delivery (more immediate), and the BMW V8 engine is shining even more brightly (what a gem of an engine). I really was thinking about selling the M3 before this mod as it wasn't getting much used, not anymore.

Alignment settings: A change in alignment is equally important in getting the most out of the M3 - see settings in post above. With zero toe and more negative front camber, car has excellent steering response, very fast turn in, and less understeer characteristic. The change in alignment is as important as the addition of Ohlins. I believe my setting above is a good start for aggressive street driving (you'll likely need more neg camber at the track, etc.). Zero toe is not jittery at all, in fact helps to make steering response wonderfully fast.

Bilstein Damptronic's "Automatic Adjustment" in Porsche versus Ohlins "Manual Adjustment" in BMW: The Damptronic Bilstein's advantage is that it is more convenient, the Ohlins' advantage is that with the 20 or so "click" adjustability front and rear, it could be tailored to your taste much more closely. With Ohlins, you could try to adjust the rebound force exactly to your liking, front versus rear for example to affect understeer/oversteer behavior, or both to affect comfort. With Bilstein Damptronic, you are limited to the 2 or 3 factory settings of Bilstein. One could say the Bilstein is more convenient, whereas the Ohlins allows more personalized setting and more choices. I enjoy both systems equally.

In short if you are looking for a more "aggressive" M3 (personal preference, no right or wrong), I would recommend the Ohlins without reservation. Simply put, it transforms the feel of the stock M3, towards a much more aggressive sports car like the GT-class Porsche.

.
.
.
Pics of rear Ohlins - high quality components that look fantastic.

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2008 Porsche 997 Turbo - Manual with Bilstein Damptronic Coilover Discussion Here, Custom Tuned ECU, Cargraphic Exhaust
2011.75 BMW M3 - DCT with Ohlins Coilover - Ohlins Settings & Impression Here

Last edited by cannga; 12-22-2019 at 10:55 PM..
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      02-07-2021, 09:25 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannga View Post
I recently installed Ohlins Road & Track Coilover and wrote about it here (with more information on spring rates, alignment and height settings, etc.): https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=99

Summary of my experience with Ohlins - As previously mentioned, as I put on the miles in the M3, I've noticed some problems with the stock M3 suspension: Comfort setting is overly soft with lots of body roll, Normal setting not much different from Comfort, and Sport setting very harsh/jittery, yet still with body roll. There is an overall ponderous/lazy feel to the M3. In many ways the problems here are similar to my P. Turbo: it's much more of a grand touring, than a true sports car.

After much reading/research, I narrowed the choice down to the Ohlins Road & Track and had it installed by Auto Talent in LA. Initial impression was, thankfully, what had bothered me most about the stock M3, the lazy/ponderous handling, has been taken care of by upgrading to the Ohlins coilover.

Ohlins Road and Track has made the M3 fully competitive with my Bilstein Turbo in "fun factor." My M3 is now a more tightly wound sports car and hugs mountain roads beautifully. The excessive body roll of stock M3 is gone, so is the jittery stiffness of the sport setting. Stock M3 also has a certain laziness in steering response that bothered me greatly and that has now been eliminated. The more sporty Ohlins suspension is firmer, but there is definitely more grace in handling road imperfections. Suspension mod btw alters the subjective sensation of power delivery (more immediate), and the BMW V8 engine is shining even more brightly (what a gem of an engine). I really was thinking about selling the M3 before this mod as it wasn't getting much used, not anymore.

Alignment settings: A change in alignment is equally important in getting the most out of the M3 - see settings in post above. With zero toe and more negative front camber, car has excellent steering response, very fast turn in, and less understeer characteristic. The change in alignment is as important as the addition of Ohlins. I believe my setting above is a good start for aggressive street driving (you'll likely need more neg camber at the track, etc.). Zero toe is not jittery at all, in fact helps to make steering response wonderfully fast.

Bilstein Damptronic's "Automatic Adjustment" in Porsche versus Ohlins "Manual Adjustment" in BMW: The Damptronic Bilstein's advantage is that it is more convenient, the Ohlins' advantage is that with the 20 or so "click" adjustability front and rear, it could be tailored to your taste much more closely. With Ohlins, you could try to adjust the rebound force exactly to your liking, front versus rear for example to affect understeer/oversteer behavior, or both to affect comfort. With Bilstein Damptronic, you are limited to the 2 or 3 factory settings of Bilstein. One could say the Bilstein is more convenient, whereas the Ohlins allows more personalized setting and more choices. I enjoy both systems equally.

In short if you are looking for a more "aggressive" M3 (personal preference, no right or wrong), I would recommend the Ohlins without reservation. Simply put, it transforms the feel of the stock M3, towards a much more aggressive sports car like the GT-class Porsche.

.
.
.
Pics of rear Ohlins - high quality components that look fantastic.

hello there,
would you mind sharing the spring, damper and height setting.
hope to hear from you soon
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      03-12-2021, 09:59 AM   #95
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My E92 M3

I know this is an old old thread but I'm new to asking for advice. I have a 2008 E92 M3 with a few upgrades such a Decat downpipes, Evolve Stage 2 tune, Venturi air box and filter etc. etc. Its done 80K now so I feel a bit of wallow in the back end on bumps as if the rebound is not sharp enough anymore and I think that the suspension is a bit tired. Still handles really well and I don't want to lower it given the 45 degree slope of my driveway and some Korean roads (Motorways are mostly flat smooth and amazing and I've had 280KMH on the clock without any real twitch or fear) so I don't want to junk the EDC with coil overs as I love the option of turning the EDC on and off. What would you guys recommend as a replacement spring solution?? And as a last minute add on - does sway bar replacement vs, stock make a big difference and what brand would you recommend if it does??
I keeping this baby, every imported part adds 10-20% to the MRP as only UK suppliers are willing to :"help" on the invoices not the US unfortunately but I want this as sweet as - cos I love this baby!
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Last edited by SteveInGeoje; 03-12-2021 at 10:04 AM..
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      03-12-2021, 12:10 PM   #96
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you'll need a couple things:
Solid rear subframe bushings
Differential bushings (softest you can get)
Monoball replacement for rear trailing arms (order from 3DM or Schirmer)
Bilstein B6 Performance Shocks w/ stock springs
Vosrhlag Camber Plates for the front


Theres a few more things you can do but this will make your car solid with no real effect to drivability and will be 95% as comfortable as stock and you retain EDC. Cost will be around $6,000USD
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      03-12-2021, 07:12 PM   #97
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He said he wants to keep edc. In this case, b6 will not work. You'll need to get b16 damptronic if you want to swap the dampers. Front monoballs are a huge difference. Go with these as well.

As for rear trailing arm, you can get this done for 1/4 price by grabbing them individually, as noted in other threads.
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      03-13-2021, 08:21 AM   #98
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Leave the OEM struts and springs alone. Solid rear subframe mounts, GAS monoballs for the thrust arms, a set of adjustable sway bars and adjustable end links front/rear should be doable for $1500. Those sway bars will be considerable change. Plenty of folks run soft springs with stiff sways at the track.

DIY the front suspension items (all very simple) and pay to have the rear done unless you're comfortable dropping the subframe.

Rear mounts $250
GAS Monoballs $250
Hotchkis sway ~$500
End links front / rear: $500
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      03-13-2021, 09:15 AM   #99
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From my experience, stay away from adjustable sway bars and use the H&R 50% stiffer than OEM M3 but same end links.

The Hotchkis, while adjustable, will end up on the 50% stiffer than stock. But the longer arm creates issues that will need unnecessary fiddling. Unless going to different tracks that need different front to rear stiffness balance, the adjustability is not adding anything.
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      04-08-2021, 01:04 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveInGeoje View Post
I know this is an old old thread but I'm new to asking for advice. I have a 2008 E92 M3 with a few upgrades such a Decat downpipes, Evolve Stage 2 tune, Venturi air box and filter etc. etc. Its done 80K now so I feel a bit of wallow in the back end on bumps as if the rebound is not sharp enough anymore and I think that the suspension is a bit tired. Still handles really well and I don't want to lower it given the 45 degree slope of my driveway and some Korean roads (Motorways are mostly flat smooth and amazing and I've had 280KMH on the clock without any real twitch or fear) so I don't want to junk the EDC with coil overs as I love the option of turning the EDC on and off. What would you guys recommend as a replacement spring solution?? And as a last minute add on - does sway bar replacement vs, stock make a big difference and what brand would you recommend if it does??
I keeping this baby, every imported part adds 10-20% to the MRP as only UK suppliers are willing to :"help" on the invoices not the US unfortunately but I want this as sweet as - cos I love this baby!
You mention the car starting to feel a bit of a wallowy situation in the rear and are likely correct to suspect your dampers based on the indicated mileage. Just want to point out if you are trying to solve this by going with stiffer springs that is is only going to get worse. Your worn EDC dampers will be even less capable of controlling rebound on stiffer springs and the wallow will tend to become more of a snap back following spring compression. Replace your EDC dampers with OEM or the Bilstein alternative mentioned and go from there.
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      04-08-2021, 01:27 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M_Chronos View Post
You mention the car starting to feel a bit of a wallowy situation in the rear and are likely correct to suspect your dampers based on the indicated mileage. Just want to point out if you are trying to solve this by going with stiffer springs that is is only going to get worse. Your worn EDC dampers will be even less capable of controlling rebound on stiffer springs and the wallow will tend to become more of a snap back following spring compression. Replace your EDC dampers with OEM or the Bilstein alternative mentioned and go from there.
Agreed. Step 1 is new dampers. If OP is happy with EDC, then EDC dampers.

Springs are pretty much always a mistake when using stock dampers.
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