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      08-17-2020, 06:58 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by da jemster View Post
Thx again Theodore ! I was able to move the driveshaft out of the way, without uninstalling the guibo, when I dismounted the CSB carrier. And yes, I marked the position of the 2 screws before dismounting :-)

And...I learned a hard lesson - NEVER, NEVER lower the tranny when you don't have the engine on its mounts and only having it hanging by the single lift hole by the passenger side. As I lowered the DCT and as I was inspecting the Mechatronics, I didn't realize it swung so far out and was pressed against the passenger side of the tunnel. I lifted the tranny back up but it was so cock-eyed leaning to the passenger side. So I decided I need to put back the subframe, hoping it would straighten it out. Unfortunately, I couldn't line up the subframe to the chassis because it was off as much as 6 inches! It took me a couple of hours, a Harbor Freight engine jack holding the tranny, 3 different jacks to line eveything up again...all on my back.
Jeez, that sounds like a scary experience before you managed to get it back in place!
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      11-08-2020, 09:13 PM   #24
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I did this job today and it was VERY difficult to get the new o-ring back on and I had the complete driveshaft, guibo and transmission mount all off.

My center support bearing was completely shot and torn about 80% of the way around so while everything was out I decided to change the o-ring.

I had all kinds of crap up there that came out when cleaning it but even with my head up in there I still couldn't actually see much of anything other than the bolt that holds everything together. Getting the old o-ring off was just a little difficult but not terrible but getting the new one on was extremely difficult. You can only have one hand in there, can't see anything and getting it over the little arm where the screw goes took a long time. The replacement gasket I got from the BMW dealer was not directional and there definitely was not a thicker or taller side - it was the same both ways so I hope it is in there correctly. It was also black where the one that came out was red. I had the transmission brace fully off and the transmission didn't tilt down much, if any, so maybe one of my supercharger parts was blocking/holding everything from tilting back - probably the hose from the intercooler part to the manifold. With the transmission out it would take 5 minutes and I would have been able to do the side cover gasket at the same time so that is what I would do if I had to do it again.

I am very good at working on cars and had it on a lift and every tool I could possibly need available and still had a tough time - this isn't for the faint of heart. The rest of the driveshaft, flexdisc, center bearing, etc. was pretty easy. I had planned on doing the bottom pan and fluid too but the o-ring took so long I didn't feel like doing any more so I put everything back together and will change the pan at a later date (that is much easier to get to - don't have to remove much at all).

Last edited by WayneM3; 11-08-2020 at 09:22 PM.. Reason: Added information
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      11-11-2020, 12:42 AM   #25
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reading these latest posts makes me glad the shop I go to did it without any complaints. I asked them if it was difficult... they basically said it wasn't a problem at all!

We were doing trans + diff + subframe mounts, as well as the guibo at the same time, so maybe that made it easier
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      11-11-2020, 08:22 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyippee View Post
reading these latest posts makes me glad the shop I go to did it without any complaints. I asked them if it was difficult... they basically said it wasn't a problem at all!

We were doing trans + diff + subframe mounts, as well as the guibo at the same time, so maybe that made it easier
How's your DCT pan? Bone dry?
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      11-12-2020, 01:04 PM   #27
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Dry so far! There was a tiny little bit of fluid that looked like it came from that mechatronics O-ring. Otherwise the slon bottom and side pans seem to be doing well.
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      12-31-2020, 05:01 PM   #28
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I'm doing rod bearings right now (well over the course of the next two to three weeks) and discovered leaking from this top O-ring. Does the fact that I have everything disassembled right now for the rod bearings - engine is suspended, subframe about to come off, etc., help me in any way to access this top mechatronics O-Ring? Or am I better off to finish the rod bearing job, put subframe back on, then follow the original post instructions?
PS. huge thanks to this thread - seems like it could save me hundred$ in avoiding a fluid refill and side/bottom gasket swaps.
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      12-31-2020, 06:36 PM   #29
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Replied to your PM.
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      01-13-2021, 07:50 PM   #30
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@Theodore and anyone else did this, when you re installed the drive shaft to DCT output shaft, did you have to do any preload on the flange?

I'm having a leak on my output shaft and tempted to drop the tranny and do all 3 seals (top, side, and side) at the same time.

Thanks
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Last edited by Genes1s; 01-13-2021 at 08:00 PM..
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      01-13-2021, 10:45 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genes1s View Post
@Theodore and anyone else did this, when you re installed the drive shaft to DCT output shaft, did you have to do any preload on the flange?

I'm having a leak on my output shaft and tempted to drop the tranny and do all 3 seals (top, side, and side) at the same time.

Thanks
The BMW TIS doesn't provide any pre-load information for the driveshaft, so just try to place the center support bearing bracket back into the same location as it was placed originally at the factory.
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      01-14-2021, 12:50 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theodore View Post
The BMW TIS doesn't provide any pre-load information for the driveshaft, so just try to place the center support bearing bracket back into the same location as it was placed originally at the factory.
Sorry, I probably said it wrong. I meant Item #3 Flange Nut. I guess I could still mark the nut and flange together for reference when you put it back together?
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      01-18-2021, 11:25 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genes1s View Post
Sorry, I probably said it wrong. I meant Item #3 Flange Nut. I guess I could still mark the nut and flange together for reference when you put it back together?
You should create a new thread about that question to get more views. You'll need someone with BMW TIS access to check for you. If no one responds you can pay for access here. Be careful as I know for some other BMW models the torque spec for that flange is a two stage process, first a very high torque is applied, then it is loosened and then a lower final torque spec is applied.
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      03-03-2021, 08:59 AM   #34
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      11-01-2022, 03:19 PM   #35
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      04-12-2023, 01:16 PM   #36
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Talked to my local performance shop and they mentioned that you need to pull a release mechanism from inside the DCT itself (pull off lower oil pan) to release the mechatronics sealing sleeve. Has anyone heard about this process? They made it sound risky pulling the top sleeve out to replace the o-ring without using this release as it could damage the internal connections? I'm a pretty handy DIY but don't have a ton of time for an intense DIY. (I have a lift which helps).
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      04-16-2023, 11:41 AM   #37
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The DCT in this model has a more maintenance friendly design with the external screw and bracket. What the shop told you is true for many DCT transmissions used by BMW as the mechatronics sleeve is normally locked in place by an internal connection and released from inside the DCT usually by removing the lower DCT pan, but for the E9X M3 it is not true. For this DCT it is held in place by the external screw shown in the photos above. This is a difficult DIY and you need very long arms to reach it if you don't remove the transmission or the engine to gain better access. I would maybe try to find a shop that is more knowledgeable about this job specifically for the E9X M3 so they give you an appropriate repair quote.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
Talked to my local performance shop and they mentioned that you need to pull a release mechanism from inside the DCT itself (pull off lower oil pan) to release the mechatronics sealing sleeve. Has anyone heard about this process? They made it sound risky pulling the top sleeve out to replace the o-ring without using this release as it could damage the internal connections? I'm a pretty handy DIY but don't have a ton of time for an intense DIY. (I have a lift which helps).
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