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09-20-2021, 02:10 PM | #89 | |
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I'm on the way. |
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09-20-2021, 02:20 PM | #90 |
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Took off left side valve cover.
Camshaft looks clean and has got some signs of oxidation. Also, injector from cyl 5 is different (some dirt) from the others, which are clean. Spark plug from cyl 5 (right side of picture) shows some signs of blowby. |
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09-20-2021, 06:54 PM | #93 |
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I assuming you have reviewed this DIY, but linking it for others. One issue with the plastic connectors is that they can become brittle with age & heat. Look for any sort of 'lock' on the connector.
DIY: Engine/Transmission removal https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1224821 |
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09-25-2021, 11:44 PM | #95 |
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On recent days, I've managed to get the transmission out, separated from the engine. For my misfortune, I've discovered that there were two bolts missing from bell housing, what made me mad. Can't understand why someone does things like this!! In this post you'll be able to see: - the car on the lift; - the multiple extensions I used to reach the bell housing upper bolts; - the two holes missing bolts; - the tool I made to tilt the engine as stated in the TIS; - the wooden bed I used to receive the gearbox after releasing it from engine, and its matching inclination; - the celebration beer for gearbox beeing off the engine; - the beautiful manual gearbox standing off the car; |
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09-26-2021, 12:14 AM | #96 |
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In this post you'll be able to see:
- A sticker on the clutch, meaning that it's passed through some service before (it's a brazillian clutch shop sticker. Maybe it was repaired instead of replaced?) - The level of wear on the clutch (I think I'll need to replace it right away, right?) - The pressure plate showing some strange marks as well as the flywhell, which leads me to think the service made in the clutch was related to some damage, not wear; Maybe it broke? - The release bearing looking like it is warped, as well as the pressure plate spring showing the same - The flywheel teeth - I'd like you to confirm to me if this is the old version flywheel, as my car is 2008, but I can't say for sure if it's all like factory yet. |
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09-26-2021, 12:23 AM | #97 |
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Also, by the time I'll install the clutch, will I need a centralizer pin? The clutch seems to centralize by itself as you can see in the video below:
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09-26-2021, 07:22 AM | #98 |
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Wow! The pressure plate and especially the flywheel are ruined! Did you not get bad clutch judder with it?
Even if you didn't, those gouges in them could propagate cracks. I don't know which version of the flywheel you have, but it doesn't matter really as you will need a new flywheel, pressure plate, clutch plate and thrust (release) bearing. And then you'll end up with the newer version anyway. Interesting design with the clutch plate, it does indeed appear to be self centering! , I've never seen one like that before. Mind you, even if it hadn't been, it's easy enough to align by eye, that's what I do 95% of the time. You do have to have a good eye of course . Can someone remind me what the differences are between the earlier and later flywheels?
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Oil analysis for finding wearing rod bearings?. Collation of oil analysis reports with some rod bearing photos for the M3's S65. My categorisation of pulled rod bearings in the rod bearing condition thread. My clean up and categorisation of the 'Blown engines' list. Last edited by Assimilator1; 10-01-2021 at 05:09 PM.. |
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09-26-2021, 01:33 PM | #99 | |
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"Not faulty, just superseded in 2009 with a slightly larger clutch/flywheel assembly. Problem is, both clutch/flywheel need to be changed on MY08s come replacement time since the early parts are no longer available. The stock clutches are pretty decent, even on boosted applications." |
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09-30-2021, 04:06 PM | #100 |
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Hi Guys.
Would you help me list all the parts I need to buy to reassemble a high mileage engine if I decide to buy it? 113,000 miles, running engine. I mean, all the piston rings, bearings, seals, bolts, etc. Can someone please guide me through this? |
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09-30-2021, 04:30 PM | #101 |
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113,000 miles isn't generally an issue for the S65. Replace the rod bearings and go. The cost of rebuilding it is really not going to be worth it, and the risk of screwing it up is significant.
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09-30-2021, 04:54 PM | #102 |
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This, and I believe special tools are needed for setting up the timing chain, and injecting sealant into the bed plate (though I vaguely recall it is possible to jerry rig a tool for injecting sealant, but I don't recall how).
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Oil analysis for finding wearing rod bearings?. Collation of oil analysis reports with some rod bearing photos for the M3's S65. My categorisation of pulled rod bearings in the rod bearing condition thread. My clean up and categorisation of the 'Blown engines' list. |
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09-30-2021, 05:07 PM | #103 |
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09-30-2021, 05:30 PM | #104 |
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I wouldn't worry about a 113K mi engine that has been sitting for a year.
Buy a new rod bearing kit, reseal the valve covers and enjoy the new engine. Be sure the clean out your oil cooler and lines before you fire the new engine. You don't want any debris from the old engine failure getting into the new engine. Also.. regarding the stuck injector.. I wonder if your car is having any sort of fuel pump issues? Unfortunately these cars don't have a serviceable fuel filter, but you can replace the fuel pump on the left side of the tank which is essentially the "fuel filter" on these cars. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.. |
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10-01-2021, 06:58 AM | #105 | |
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Got also a dial indicator to measure piston height at TDC, because from now on I feel like a bent rod may be a silent killer in any engine that had a stuck open injector. It would be better if I measured the rod in the outside of the engine, but measuring the TDC height may be enough. |
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10-01-2021, 07:18 AM | #106 | ||
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I can't say it's related to fuel pump itself. But you make me fear its condition. |
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10-01-2021, 11:38 AM | #107 |
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Hmm, a manual pump might work. If it was me, I would take the oil cooler lines and oil cooler to a machine shop (or a radiator shop) and see if they can hot tank it and clean it for you.
Regarding the fuel pump.. I know it adds cost, but I would replace it if I were you. The last thing you want is the fuel injector to stick on the replacement engine. |
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10-01-2021, 12:52 PM | #108 |
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Unless it's been sitting outside, that's nothing. Put a little oil down the spark plug holes and turn it over manually if you're paranoid.
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10-01-2021, 05:17 PM | #109 | |
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Assuming the filter hasn't torn somehow (which again would affect all cylinders), the only thing I can think of that would cause a sticking injector is a faulty injector (assuming no impact damage). Am I missing something?
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Oil analysis for finding wearing rod bearings?. Collation of oil analysis reports with some rod bearing photos for the M3's S65. My categorisation of pulled rod bearings in the rod bearing condition thread. My clean up and categorisation of the 'Blown engines' list. |
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10-02-2021, 05:35 AM | #110 |
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Okay, guys. You made my mind. I'm buying that engine.
That will restrain my budget so much, so no new clutch for now, I'll be using a flywheel and pressure plate from a friend's 08 E92 that has no signs of damage like mine, with my actual clutch disc, and keep it until it starts to slip. Wanted to shorten the final drive ratio in this occasion too, but that will have to wait too. I think that my valve covers may be in a better shape than the new engine's, and I can exchange them. Will also check that plastic cover of the Vanos gears, and see which engine have them in better shape, and change if needed. Hope I can avoid other cost in that. Now, the rod bearings: I'm pretty intended to examine my actual engine BE-Bearings with only 4k miles, and if good, move them to the new engine. After that, clean up the oil cooler and lines, put new oil in the engine, fire it, wait some minutes, and drain that oil again. Put new oil and filter, and go for THE ride. No break-in period needed. Let me know your thoughts, about my thought, and about all people here's thoughts coming after this post. EDIT.: forgot one thing. By the change of the bearings, I'll be able to see lower side of the engine. By the change of the valve covers, I'll be able to see an overview of the headers. To have an idea of the pistons rings, I'll want to make a compression test. And see the rod lenght by measuring the Top Dead Center height. If all that is okay, only one thing will be in the dark, the main bearings shape. Last edited by jvictormp; 10-02-2021 at 05:49 AM.. |
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