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      09-20-2021, 02:10 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
Good you found where it came from

jvictormp
Is the broken rod still free moving on the crank?
If not, that'll probably be why it broke. If it is, curious! I don't think we've had an OEM rod that's just broken, usually either something has hydraulically locked the engine (water or fuel) and that's bent or broken the rod, or the rod bearings have failed leading to the rod breaking off the crank.
Can't see if free moving yet, because I ain't got no tool long enough to touch it without removing all the parts that sit above the hole.

I'm on the way.
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      09-20-2021, 02:20 PM   #90
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Took off left side valve cover.

Camshaft looks clean and has got some signs of oxidation.

Also, injector from cyl 5 is different (some dirt) from the others, which are clean.

Spark plug from cyl 5 (right side of picture) shows some signs of blowby.
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      09-20-2021, 05:00 PM   #91
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Struggling to remove engine wiring harness.

Seems like I'd need to remove the ECU together.
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      09-20-2021, 06:23 PM   #92
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Okay, removed ECU, released all conectors inside ECU box, but can't find how to release the cables that goes behind the engine, on direction to the gearbox.
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      09-20-2021, 06:54 PM   #93
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I assuming you have reviewed this DIY, but linking it for others. One issue with the plastic connectors is that they can become brittle with age & heat. Look for any sort of 'lock' on the connector.

DIY: Engine/Transmission removal https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1224821
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      09-21-2021, 09:19 AM   #94
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I am not jealous of your position, but I am incredibly envious of your skills and determination.

Keep going at it!
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      09-25-2021, 11:44 PM   #95
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Updating

On recent days, I've managed to get the transmission out, separated from the engine.

For my misfortune, I've discovered that there were two bolts missing from bell housing, what made me mad. Can't understand why someone does things like this!!

In this post you'll be able to see:
- the car on the lift;
- the multiple extensions I used to reach the bell housing upper bolts;
- the two holes missing bolts;
- the tool I made to tilt the engine as stated in the TIS;
- the wooden bed I used to receive the gearbox after releasing it from engine, and its matching inclination;
- the celebration beer for gearbox beeing off the engine;
- the beautiful manual gearbox standing off the car;
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      09-26-2021, 12:14 AM   #96
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In this post you'll be able to see:

- A sticker on the clutch, meaning that it's passed through some service before (it's a brazillian clutch shop sticker. Maybe it was repaired instead of replaced?)
- The level of wear on the clutch (I think I'll need to replace it right away, right?)
- The pressure plate showing some strange marks as well as the flywhell, which leads me to think the service made in the clutch was related to some damage, not wear; Maybe it broke?
- The release bearing looking like it is warped, as well as the pressure plate spring showing the same
- The flywheel teeth - I'd like you to confirm to me if this is the old version flywheel, as my car is 2008, but I can't say for sure if it's all like factory yet.


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      09-26-2021, 12:23 AM   #97
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Also, by the time I'll install the clutch, will I need a centralizer pin? The clutch seems to centralize by itself as you can see in the video below:

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      09-26-2021, 07:22 AM   #98
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Wow! The pressure plate and especially the flywheel are ruined! Did you not get bad clutch judder with it?
Even if you didn't, those gouges in them could propagate cracks.

I don't know which version of the flywheel you have, but it doesn't matter really as you will need a new flywheel, pressure plate, clutch plate and thrust (release) bearing. And then you'll end up with the newer version anyway.

Interesting design with the clutch plate, it does indeed appear to be self centering! , I've never seen one like that before.
Mind you, even if it hadn't been, it's easy enough to align by eye, that's what I do 95% of the time. You do have to have a good eye of course .

Can someone remind me what the differences are between the earlier and later flywheels?

Last edited by Assimilator1; 10-01-2021 at 05:09 PM..
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      09-26-2021, 01:33 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
Wow! The pressure plate and especially the flywheel are ruined! Did you not get bad clutch judder with it?
Even if you didn't, those gouges in them could propagate cracks.

I don't know which version of the flywheel you have, but it doesn't matter really as you will need a new flywheel, pressure plate, clutch plate and thrust (release) bearing. And then you'll end up with the newer version anyway.

Interesting design with the clutch plate, it does indeed appear to be self centring! , I've never seen one like that before.
Mind you, even if it hadn't been, it's easy enough to align by eye, that's what I do 95% of the time. You do have to have a good eye of course .

Can someone remind me what the differences are between the earlier and later flywheels?
I'm stealing Tom from EAS's answer,

"Not faulty, just superseded in 2009 with a slightly larger clutch/flywheel assembly.

Problem is, both clutch/flywheel need to be changed on MY08s come replacement time since the early parts are no longer available.

The stock clutches are pretty decent, even on boosted applications."
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      09-30-2021, 04:06 PM   #100
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Hi Guys.

Would you help me list all the parts I need to buy to reassemble a high mileage engine if I decide to buy it?

113,000 miles, running engine.

I mean, all the piston rings, bearings, seals, bolts, etc.

Can someone please guide me through this?
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      09-30-2021, 04:30 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvictormp View Post
Hi Guys.

Would you help me list all the parts I need to buy to reassemble a high mileage engine if I decide to buy it?

113,000 miles, running engine.

I mean, all the piston rings, bearings, seals, bolts, etc.

Can someone please guide me through this?
113,000 miles isn't generally an issue for the S65. Replace the rod bearings and go. The cost of rebuilding it is really not going to be worth it, and the risk of screwing it up is significant.
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      09-30-2021, 04:54 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrubenstein View Post
113,000 miles isn't generally an issue for the S65. Replace the rod bearings and go. The cost of rebuilding it is really not going to be worth it, and the risk of screwing it up is significant.
This, and I believe special tools are needed for setting up the timing chain, and injecting sealant into the bed plate (though I vaguely recall it is possible to jerry rig a tool for injecting sealant, but I don't recall how).
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      09-30-2021, 05:07 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrubenstein View Post
113,000 miles isn't generally an issue for the S65. Replace the rod bearings and go. The cost of rebuilding it is really not going to be worth it, and the risk of screwing it up is significant.
Okay, but the engine's been stopped for more than year.
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      09-30-2021, 05:30 PM   #104
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I wouldn't worry about a 113K mi engine that has been sitting for a year.

Buy a new rod bearing kit, reseal the valve covers and enjoy the new engine. Be sure the clean out your oil cooler and lines before you fire the new engine. You don't want any debris from the old engine failure getting into the new engine.

Also.. regarding the stuck injector.. I wonder if your car is having any sort of fuel pump issues? Unfortunately these cars don't have a serviceable fuel filter, but you can replace the fuel pump on the left side of the tank which is essentially the "fuel filter" on these cars. Someone please correct me if I am wrong..
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      10-01-2021, 06:58 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assimilator1 View Post
This, and I believe special tools are needed for setting up the timing chain, and injecting sealant into the bed plate (though I vaguely recall it is possible to jerry rig a tool for injecting sealant, but I don't recall how).
I've bought that timing tool, and the bedplate sealant comes in a syringe to be injected through some ball valves in the block. "Sarka on the ring" recorded it and put on YT.
























Got also a dial indicator to measure piston height at TDC, because from now on I feel like a bent rod may be a silent killer in any engine that had a stuck open injector. It would be better if I measured the rod in the outside of the engine, but measuring the TDC height may be enough.
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      10-01-2021, 07:18 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johal E32 View Post
Be sure the clean out your oil cooler and lines before you fire the new engine. You don't want any debris from the old engine failure getting into the new engine.
How could I do that? Could I connect a manual pump and inject new oil through the lines? And let that oil be wasted? Or could I use water, and after throughly cleaned, pump some oil to get rid of the remaining water?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johal E32 View Post
Also.. regarding the stuck injector.. I wonder if your car is having any sort of fuel pump issues? Unfortunately these cars don't have a serviceable fuel filter, but you can replace the fuel pump on the left side of the tank which is essentially the "fuel filter" on these cars. Someone please correct me if I am wrong..
In fact I had a fuel pump fault in July this year, but INPA showed a fault code related to low pressure sensor, which I actually bought new to replace, but never did because the fault never came up again.

I can't say it's related to fuel pump itself. But you make me fear its condition.
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      10-01-2021, 11:38 AM   #107
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Hmm, a manual pump might work. If it was me, I would take the oil cooler lines and oil cooler to a machine shop (or a radiator shop) and see if they can hot tank it and clean it for you.

Regarding the fuel pump.. I know it adds cost, but I would replace it if I were you. The last thing you want is the fuel injector to stick on the replacement engine.
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      10-01-2021, 12:52 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvictormp View Post
Okay, but the engine's been stopped for more than year.
Unless it's been sitting outside, that's nothing. Put a little oil down the spark plug holes and turn it over manually if you're paranoid.
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      10-01-2021, 05:17 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johal E32 View Post
Hmm, a manual pump might work. If it was me, I would take the oil cooler lines and oil cooler to a machine shop (or a radiator shop) and see if they can hot tank it and clean it for you.

Regarding the fuel pump.. I know it adds cost, but I would replace it if I were you. The last thing you want is the fuel injector to stick on the replacement engine.
I don't see why you would think a dodgy pump would cause a stuck injector, if the filter is built into the pump and it gets partially clogged it's going to cause a fuel restriction that will affect all cylinders.
Assuming the filter hasn't torn somehow (which again would affect all cylinders), the only thing I can think of that would cause a sticking injector is a faulty injector (assuming no impact damage).
Am I missing something?
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      10-02-2021, 05:35 AM   #110
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Okay, guys. You made my mind. I'm buying that engine.

That will restrain my budget so much, so no new clutch for now, I'll be using a flywheel and pressure plate from a friend's 08 E92 that has no signs of damage like mine, with my actual clutch disc, and keep it until it starts to slip.

Wanted to shorten the final drive ratio in this occasion too, but that will have to wait too.

I think that my valve covers may be in a better shape than the new engine's, and I can exchange them. Will also check that plastic cover of the Vanos gears, and see which engine have them in better shape, and change if needed. Hope I can avoid other cost in that.

Now, the rod bearings: I'm pretty intended to examine my actual engine BE-Bearings with only 4k miles, and if good, move them to the new engine.

After that, clean up the oil cooler and lines, put new oil in the engine, fire it, wait some minutes, and drain that oil again.

Put new oil and filter, and go for THE ride. No break-in period needed.

Let me know your thoughts, about my thought, and about all people here's thoughts coming after this post.


EDIT.: forgot one thing.

By the change of the bearings, I'll be able to see lower side of the engine.

By the change of the valve covers, I'll be able to see an overview of the headers.

To have an idea of the pistons rings, I'll want to make a compression test. And see the rod lenght by measuring the Top Dead Center height.

If all that is okay, only one thing will be in the dark, the main bearings shape.

Last edited by jvictormp; 10-02-2021 at 05:49 AM..
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