which orbital polisher is better?

[carenthuziast]

Griot's Garage orbital polisher

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...001/11452726-P

Meguiar's MT300

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by carenthuziast

Griot's Garage orbital polisher

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...001/11452726-P

Meguiar's MT300

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Rupes is better => http://www.autogeek.net/rupes-polishers.html

[carenthuziast]

Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium

Rupes is better => http://www.autogeek.net/rupes-polishers.html

Thanks, but I'm not looking to spend that kind of crazy money on a polisher!

[doogee]

You'll be fine with the Griots for medium/light correction work.

[dparm]

Take a look at the Porter+Cable 7424XP. It's another one of the benchmarks in the class.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Ca...24XP/203054743

[cclinard1]

I have the Griots 6". It was my first. It works well, but I found it didn't perform well when trying to remove deep swirls/scratches. It bogs down some. I've used the Porter Cable and found it sort of rough as far as sound and vibration. It's just not for me...a lot of people love it.

I then moved onto the Torq10FX.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/TORQ_10F..._p/buf_501.htm

The Torq seems to fit me well. It has a high pitch sound but not bad. Works very well, doesn't bog down. It has the same dial adjustment as the Griot's which is ok but not great when making changes to speed. It digs in well.

Next, I went with Adams Swirl killer.

http://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-swir...-polisher.html

Best polisher I've used. It's very smooth. It feels like it's gliding instead of digging. I'd go with this one if I were to pick only one now.

Hope this helps.

[ghostofsenna]

Why is the Rupes polisher considered the best?

[EnVe46]

Porter Cable or even the Harbor Freight is all you need to be honest. It's really all in the quality of pads/products along with technique. My Harbor Freight is going on three years and decent use and outlasted two porter cables and a buddies griots for what it's worth.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by dparm

Take a look at the Porter+Cable 7424XP. It's another one of the benchmarks in the class.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Ca...24XP/203054743

This. Real good option for the DIYer.

[doogee]

Stay away from the Porter Cable. It's far less powerful than the Griots and is now cheaply made.

[ghostofsenna]

Has anyone detailed with both the Rupes and Griots? I would like to hear user experience and if the Rupes is worth the price differential...

[dparm]

Originally Posted by ghostofsenna

Has anyone detailed with both the Rupes and Griots? I would like to hear user experience and if the Rupes is worth the price differential...

Visit any high-end detail shop and you will see them almost exclusively using Rupes stuff.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by doogee

Stay away from the Porter Cable. It's far less powerful than the Griots and is now cheaply made.

When did that change? Mine is about 6 years old and seems to be doing just fine.

I'll admit it's not the world's best random DA, but for the money and the lightweight work I have done, it's adequate.

[doogee]

Originally Posted by dparm

When did that change? Mine is about 6 years old and seems to be doing just fine.

I'll admit it's not the world's best random DA, but for the money and the lightweight work I have done, it's adequate.

You probably have one of the older good ones. A few years ago they started making them in China I believe. The Porter Cable was my tool of choice when I was learning paint correction and I went through two in two years so I upgraded to the Flex 3401.

For regular home use, it should be just fine. But no doubt the Griots is far more powerful and will save time.

[cclinard1]

Originally Posted by doogee

You probably have one of the older good ones. A few years ago they started making them in China I believe. The Porter Cable was my tool of choice when I was learning paint correction and I went through two in two years so I upgraded to the Flex 3401.

For regular home use, it should be just fine. But no doubt the Griots is far more powerful and will save time.

Agreed. The new PC's just aren't as powerful as the older ones. The Griot's is far more powerful. They should be comparable when on the same speed settings and they're just not. I found that I had to have the PC maxed out on speed to get the same results on a lower setting of the Griot's. The higher speed results in more mistakes, noise and vibration. But like I said earlier, I still pick Adam's Swirl killer over all these now. Just better design/technology at this point IMO.

[Z K]

I have an older 7424 as well. Been fine for light correction with the right selection of pads and polish/compound.

For cutting deeper stuff, you need more power. My friend has a Flex rotory (not random orbital) I'll borrow for those jobs. But you have to be very careful, these things will burn through paint easily if not careful.

[carenthuziast]

For those that have a clear car bra or some other kind of clear film on the body of your vehicle, how do you detail your car in those areas?

[dparm]

Originally Posted by carenthuziast

For those that have a clear car bra or some other kind of clear film on the body of your vehicle, how do you detail your car in those areas?

You need to avoid anything solvent-based or overly abrasive. The whole point of clear bra is to protect the paint and reduce the amount of detailing you need to do.

Honestly, all I ever need to do on my Xpel Ultimate + Cquartz Finest is just mist some quick detailer on it and wipe off. I wash it like normal. For anything more serious, I'd rather just take it back to the installer and have them check it out.

What is the exact issue you are having?

[carenthuziast]

Originally Posted by dparm

You need to avoid anything solvent-based or overly abrasive. The whole point of clear bra is to protect the paint and reduce the amount of detailing you need to do.

Honestly, all I ever need to do on my Xpel Ultimate + Cquartz Finest is just mist some quick detailer on it and wipe off. I wash it like normal. For anything more serious, I'd rather just take it back to the installer and have them check it out.

What is the exact issue you are having?

LOL!

My issue is that I'm planning to wash/detail my car for the first time (2nd owner) and trying to figure out what to do and how to do it.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by dparm

You need to avoid anything solvent-based or overly abrasive. The whole point of clear bra is to protect the paint and reduce the amount of detailing you need to do.

Honestly, all I ever need to do on my Xpel Ultimate + Cquartz Finest is just mist some quick detailer on it and wipe off. I wash it like normal. For anything more serious, I'd rather just take it back to the installer and have them check it out.

What is the exact issue you are having?

Totally agree. Film protection is such as joy to keep clean, don't even need to be overly careful should a spot need to be removed. Sometimes wish I had it all over the car.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by carenthuziast

LOL!

My issue is that I'm planning to wash/detail my car for the first time (2nd owner) and trying to figure out what to do and how to do it.

Just wash it like any other car. If the film is damaged, take it to a local XPEL shop and have them check it out. The films are sort-of self-healing, but only up to a certain point.

[Z K]

Clear bra should not be polished or anything abrasive used. I just apply a sealant to the clear bra now and then to keep the protection up.

The problem with clear bra is, it bonds with things like road tar and melted rubber like you'd see on a track day. It is a pain to remove. You can't use tar remover on it because it'll damage the bra.