let's talk about wheel studs!

1MOREMOD · 03-23-2015, 07:11 PM

Shouldn't need to. Once caliper is pulled the rotor slides off over the studs.

s14_kev · 03-23-2015, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roastbeef

anyone know if bmw is going to give me a hard time when my front brakes are due? are they going to have to remove the studs to replace the rotors?

Some tire shops might not touch wheels with studs just fyi. I had an issue with Americas tire. They don't want to be liable if the studs are not torqued down properly when the car is dropped off.

I suggest calling smaller tire shops and asking if they will work on cars with stud conversions if you do need work done. Or if you can, remove the rims and bring them in another car, that's the best option.

roastbeef · 03-23-2015, 09:06 PM

i'm not so much worried about the wheels, it's bmw bitching about the studs when replacing my brakes under the free maintenance plan. i guess worst case scenario i could take the studs off the front and go in with bmw lugs just to get the new brakes and swap the studs back in.

Greg S · 04-06-2015, 11:15 PM

I've used, installed, and uninstalled several brands(Turner/MSI, Vorshlag, every level of BW)of studs, the BimmerWorld premium race studs are still my favorite. They work well with my Assenmacher stud install/removal sockets, they have a shoulder which is the preferred method, they come with really good thread locker already on them, and of course they're bullet nose.

chili cheese · 04-08-2015, 06:58 PM

I'm running an APEX stud kit. 2 years on them and so far so good.

1MOREMOD · 04-08-2015, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chili cheese

I'm running an APEX stud kit. 2 years on them and so far so good.

They are a wear item. If that's a track car change them.

beats · 04-15-2015, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

They are a wear item. If that's a track car change them.

Do you need to change OEM wheel bolts on an annual / bi-annual basis for the same reason?

Also, can anyone comment on experience with studs in climates with salt/snow. Any maintenance required over the winter?

tom @ eas · 04-15-2015, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skru_fase

Do you need to change OEM wheel bolts on an annual / bi-annual basis for the same reason?

Also, can anyone comment on experience with studs in climates with salt/snow. Any maintenance required over the winter?

It's never a bad idea, especially on those vehicles in the rust-belt - especially on such a low-cost item.

1MOREMOD · 04-15-2015, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skru_fase

Do you need to change OEM wheel bolts on an annual / bi-annual basis for the same reason?

Also, can anyone comment on experience with studs in climates with salt/snow. Any maintenance required over the winter?

No one does but for a track car I would change them as well probably. Never have had regular bolts on track car though.

chili cheese · 04-25-2015, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD

They are a wear item. If that's a track car change them.

Not a dedicated track car, so no need to change them every season.

1MOREMOD · 04-25-2015, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chili cheese

Not a dedicated track car, so no need to change them every season.

Agreed. I'm tending towards every 2 seasons for my track car with bimmerworld premium race studs.

kitw · 05-09-2015, 11:41 PM

I just installed the Tire Rack TPI studs on my car. Very high quality stud, zinc coated and has a hex section and a socket for installation. I really like the design. They are too thin for anything more than a 5-7mm spacer, though.

kyrix1st · 12-06-2018, 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roastbeef

i found a thread on an e28 board where a guy was making titanium wheel studs/bolts. he was selling them and they offered some weight savings (not exactly sure how much), but i wouldn't run a non-torture tested stud. i'm not sure titanium would hold up, either.

I recently bought SCC wheel studs from Schmiedmann. Are these quality studs?

roastbeef · 12-06-2018, 06:56 AM

kyrix1st, i don't know. they aren't a company i'm familiar with.

i recently revisited the idea of titanium wheel studs. i'm not going to say they are dangerous or don't work- they just won't be a good fit for me and here is why; you have to maintain proper thread lubrication to guard against galling. this could be tedious for a weekender like me. this adds time to my routine, and with routine sometimes comes complacency- and thats where problems start.
i also found that using power tools with titanium hardware theoretically causes more friction on the hardware and is more likely to cause galling. why is galling bad? it is about the same thing as friction welding, and it compromises the material. i don't know if using power tools just accelerates your maintenance interval or how often you have to apply mollybdenum paste (the lube).
i'm not interested in taking the time to apply mollybdenum to each stud and hand tightening each lugnut every time i change wheels/pads/etc..
also, titanium is stronger, but it gives much less of a warning when it gives up. it just breaks like glass. steel can actually stretch and deform (and actually still help hold).

take my above comments lightly, i'm not any kind of expert in the subject. i'm simply doing exploratory research and there are too many variables for comfort.

byroncheung · 12-06-2018, 10:35 AM

sorry for being slightly off topic...

i'm not running stud yet but might convert at some point.

one thing i have always been curious about - from what i read studs are maintenance items and need to replaced every now and then. why the same isn't true for lug nuts and lug nuts don't have to be routinely replaced?

roastbeef · 12-06-2018, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by byroncheung

sorry for being slightly off topic...

i'm not running stud yet but might convert at some point.

one thing i have always been curious about - from what i read studs are maintenance items and need to replaced every now and then. why the same isn't true for lug nuts and lug nuts don't have to be routinely replaced?

I replace the lugs with the studs. However, I have never heard of a but breaking and a stud holding...

CorruptCommie · 12-06-2018, 11:31 AM

Studs have a certain number of torque cycles, don't think that's the case with lug bolts.

byroncheung · 12-06-2018, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CorruptCommie

Studs have a certain number of torque cycles, don't think that's the case with lug bolts.

why is that? to someone naive like me, both of them are steel rods with threads on them...?
is that because for studs the pressure is distributed over fewer no of threads at the stud/lug nut contact surface, while lug bolts distribute the pressure over a larger contact surface between the bolts and the hub?

CorruptCommie · 12-06-2018, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by byroncheung

why is that? to someone naive like me, both of them are steel rods with threads on them...?
is that because for studs the pressure is distributed over fewer no of threads at the stud/lug nut contact surface, while lug bolts distribute the pressure over a larger contact surface between the bolts and the hub?

I'm not an engineer, we are going to need one of those to help explain. I just know that I have spun a stud like butter torquing down a wheel from over cycling it or over torquing it. Haven't snapped a wheel bolt yet

slicer · 12-06-2018, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by byroncheung

Quote:

Originally Posted by CorruptCommie

Studs have a certain number of torque cycles, don't think that's the case with lug bolts.

why is that? to someone naive like me, both of them are steel rods with threads on them...?
is that because for studs the pressure is distributed over fewer no of threads at the stud/lug nut contact surface, while lug bolts distribute the pressure over a larger contact surface between the bolts and the hub?

I personally think they both would fatigue over time and use at a similar rate. Studs are just something that is typically used by those who track and/or race their car. That type of use sees far more frequent wheel changes than the typical street user with one set of wheels. In other words it's more of a product of frequency of use than it is the inherent design. Think about it logically. A piece of hardware that is sitting there without being used is not going to wear out. A bolt that goes through many cycles of use will eventually wear out. Add on top of that the consequences of lug bolts failing - equals - reason to error on the side of caution.

In other words I would replace lug bolts just as frequently as studs if they were seeing the same type of use.

m13s · 12-08-2018, 08:48 AM

had the Turner wheel studs fail at Road Atlanta this summer. Went back to ARP studs no problems with those.

slicer · 12-08-2018, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m13s

had the Turner wheel studs fail at Road Atlanta this summer. Went back to ARP studs no problems with those.

Turner sells 2 or 3 versions. Do you know which one you had? One has an Allen head, another is from MSI and is a bullet nose, and I think they also have a fully threaded version

03-23-2015, 07:11 PM	#23
1MOREMOD - 11817 Rep 23,187 Posts Drives: Race car-> Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: check your mirrors iTrader: (5)	Shouldn't need to. Once caliper is pulled the rotor slides off over the studs.
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03-23-2015, 09:06 PM	#25
roastbeef Lieutenant General 11583 Rep 12,723 Posts Drives: E92 M3 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Orange County, CA iTrader: (4)	i'm not so much worried about the wheels, it's bmw bitching about the studs when replacing my brakes under the free maintenance plan. i guess worst case scenario i could take the studs off the front and go in with bmw lugs just to get the new brakes and swap the studs back in. __________________ Instagram; @roastbeefmike
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04-06-2015, 11:15 PM	#26
Greg S Private First Class 84 Rep 105 Posts Drives: 08 M3 DCT Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Fort Worth, TX iTrader: (0)	I've used, installed, and uninstalled several brands(Turner/MSI, Vorshlag, every level of BW)of studs, the BimmerWorld premium race studs are still my favorite. They work well with my Assenmacher stud install/removal sockets, they have a shoulder which is the preferred method, they come with really good thread locker already on them, and of course they're bullet nose.
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04-08-2015, 06:58 PM	#27
chili cheese Major 101 Rep 1,086 Posts Drives: '16 Corvette Z06 Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Southern CA iTrader: (6)	I'm running an APEX stud kit. 2 years on them and so far so good.
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05-09-2015, 11:41 PM	#34
kitw Colonel 471 Rep 2,991 Posts Drives: F91 M8, 991.2 GT3 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (20)	I just installed the Tire Rack TPI studs on my car. Very high quality stud, zinc coated and has a hex section and a socket for installation. I really like the design. They are too thin for anything more than a 5-7mm spacer, though. __________________ DSC_3369 by Kit W, on Flickr
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12-06-2018, 06:56 AM	#36
roastbeef Lieutenant General 11583 Rep 12,723 Posts Drives: E92 M3 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Orange County, CA iTrader: (4)	kyrix1st, i don't know. they aren't a company i'm familiar with. i recently revisited the idea of titanium wheel studs. i'm not going to say they are dangerous or don't work- they just won't be a good fit for me and here is why; you have to maintain proper thread lubrication to guard against galling. this could be tedious for a weekender like me. this adds time to my routine, and with routine sometimes comes complacency- and thats where problems start. i also found that using power tools with titanium hardware theoretically causes more friction on the hardware and is more likely to cause galling. why is galling bad? it is about the same thing as friction welding, and it compromises the material. i don't know if using power tools just accelerates your maintenance interval or how often you have to apply mollybdenum paste (the lube). i'm not interested in taking the time to apply mollybdenum to each stud and hand tightening each lugnut every time i change wheels/pads/etc.. also, titanium is stronger, but it gives much less of a warning when it gives up. it just breaks like glass. steel can actually stretch and deform (and actually still help hold). take my above comments lightly, i'm not any kind of expert in the subject. i'm simply doing exploratory research and there are too many variables for comfort. __________________ Instagram; @roastbeefmike
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12-06-2018, 10:35 AM	#37
byroncheung Lieutenant 178 Rep 591 Posts Drives: e90 m3, 997.2 c2s, x166 GL450 Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Westchester, NY iTrader: (0)	sorry for being slightly off topic... i'm not running stud yet but might convert at some point. one thing i have always been curious about - from what i read studs are maintenance items and need to replaced every now and then. why the same isn't true for lug nuts and lug nuts don't have to be routinely replaced?
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12-06-2018, 11:31 AM	#39
CorruptCommie First Lieutenant 346 Rep 396 Posts Drives: 2011 X5d Join Date: May 2014 Location: Cincinnati, OH iTrader: (0)	Studs have a certain number of torque cycles, don't think that's the case with lug bolts. __________________
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12-08-2018, 08:48 AM	#43
m13s Enlisted Member 26 Rep 31 Posts Drives: E90M3 Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Boston, MA North Shore iTrader: (0)	had the Turner wheel studs fail at Road Atlanta this summer. Went back to ARP studs no problems with those.
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