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      06-22-2020, 09:10 AM   #67
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Any video footage? I'd like to see the 4.10s in action. As something I'm considering at some point looking to find more in use video.
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      06-22-2020, 10:07 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by //steve\\ View Post
Any video footage? I'd like to see the 4.10s in action. As something I'm considering at some point looking to find more in use video.
None yet unfortunately, but I will have some coming shortly.

What I found the most helpful when I debating what final drive to go through was a gearing spreadsheet like this one found on diffsonline: https://diffsonline.com/bmw-differen...formation.html

Enter your tire size, the E92 gear ratios and the desired final drive and you can see the speed at a given RPM for all the gears. Helped me decided the 4.1 would be a good fit for my car.
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      06-22-2020, 10:10 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk94 View Post
None yet unfortunately, but I will have some coming shortly.

What I found the most helpful when I debating what final drive to go through was a gearing spreadsheet like this one found on diffsonline: https://diffsonline.com/bmw-differen...formation.html

Enter your tire size, the E92 gear ratios and the desired final drive and you can see the speed at a given RPM for all the gears. Helped me decided the 4.1 would be a good fit for my car.
Although way over modded for a street car (I bought it this way) I'm always looking for stuff that will make the car more fun and gears will absolutely do this. It seems like the least aggressive step up in gearing. I wouldn't want to go any shorter anyways with my rear tire size (295/30/18) which is already a good bit smaller than OE.

My car will always remain a mostly street car that hopefully sees some track time a few times a year. i don't even particularly care if gears don't make it any faster (although I'm sure they will help).

Thanks for the link, I'll check that out.
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      06-23-2020, 01:00 AM   #70
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Quick question

Great thread, I have been using it to help with my build, I'll document it when I get a chance. You stated early on that you did the A/C delete and I was wondering what belt you used for the power steering and also did you use the idler pulley or just the tensioner.

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      06-23-2020, 11:02 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBear View Post
Great thread, I have been using it to help with my build, I'll document it when I get a chance. You stated early on that you did the A/C delete and I was wondering what belt you used for the power steering and also did you use the idler pulley or just the tensioner.

Thanks
Thanks.

For the AC delete it depends on the year of your car. There were 2 drive belt configurations for the E9X M3's - pre 05/2008 and post 06/2008. My car is the early version so the AC delete is more straight forward. We used a Macht Schnell under drive pulley kit and used 1 of the belts and then sourced a 2nd shorter belt to accommodate the removal of the AC compressor.

I couldn't be wrong but I believe the AC can only be deleted, at least easily, on the earlier cars like I had. What year is your car? We are using both the idler pulley and tensioner. If your car is an early production model like mine I can provide the belt length you'd need to delete the AC, but for a later model version I can't provide much meaningful insight as it's different than my car and requires a different approach.
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      06-23-2020, 04:19 PM   #72
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Thanks

Thanks for the quick reply, yea its a 2011 so I guess I am getting my measuring tape out. I think the routing will work pretty easily but just need to get the length right.
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      06-23-2020, 04:21 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBear View Post
Thanks for the quick reply, yea its a 2011 so I guess I am getting my measuring tape out. I think the routing will work pretty easily but just need to get the length right.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Feel free to contact Bimmerworld, they helped me sort out my situation and I believe they are familiar with what to do on the newer belt design as well. Best of luck.
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      06-29-2020, 12:47 PM   #74
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June 28th Track Day Update

Finally got back on track yesterday for the first time this year

The main goal was to test the changes to the car that we made over the off season, those being:
- Increased front tire size from 275->295 (295 RR square now)
- ~120lb weight reduction and proper corner balance - this is our race ready ST3 configuration
- New front camber setting; increased from -3.5 to -3.9
- Damper setting changes, increased front and rear rebound and compression
- Switched from PFC 11 to 08's in the rear (still running 06 fronts)

Ambient temperature was 60*F

Unfortunately only got in 1 session each of dry running before on and off rain throughout the rest day. So far though the changes to the car have been successful. The increased front tire size has noticeably improved front end grip without any subsequent loss in relative rear grip. In the first session of the year and the only fully dry session of the day we were able to beat our PB by a tenth and ran a 1:27.4, which is very promising going forward.

I didn't take any videos this time around since by the time we set it up it was mostly wet/damp running for the rest of the day - not the most exciting to watch as the laps are significantly slower and any downtime was spent instructing my uncle who had his first ever track day in his mint R53 JCW and had a great time!
The RR's did not bad in the damp/wet track conditions. There was no standing water so they were useable, but definitely not the most confidence inspiring tire in those conditions. Made for good car control practice and close concrete walls in certain sections of the track keep you humble lol.


Next track day is next Sunday, July 5. Hoping for a fully dry day - if so I'll definitely get some videos finally..

Last edited by tsk94; 06-29-2020 at 01:25 PM..
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      06-29-2020, 12:58 PM   #75
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Also, for the first time we experienced slight brake fade. Likely due to the increased front tire size and gaining familiarity with the car we are unsurprisingly pushing it harder. The pedal required a bit more effort than normal and we're evaluating options going forward. This only happened while running a session of consistent times at and around the cars current PB. At this point the likely next step is to go to a more aggressive front pad as the PFC 06 are an endurance pad and don't have the highest temperature range before they fall off. The PFC 11's are the logical next step as we have a rear set we can run in conjunction and they are a sprint pad with a higher working temp range.

We are also going to look into running a 2nd set of brake ducting to the front rotors - likely a NACA duct system from the front under tray to a 2nd location on the backing plates. The GS Grand AM cars that ran OEM brakes ran double ducted front setups, so if space permits this is another option. With the current exchange rate a full BBK isn't in the budget currently and if we upgrade to a BBK we want to go F+R at the same time and with a proper race ready kit like PFC or AP.

The fade wasn't very severe and the brakes would come back to normal after 1 cool down lap, but nevertheless is something to look into. Otherwise the brakes have been working well for a stock-ish setup.
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      07-08-2020, 06:23 PM   #76
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July 5th Track Day

Got another track day in last Sunday. Weather for the most part was good with ambient temps in the mid 60's, rained a bit in the mid morning but dried up quickly.

Not many changes from the previous weekend. We stiffened the rear sway bar to reduce some mid corner understeer and ran slightly lower tire pressures all around; 33psi hot on the RR's seem to be the sweet spot for our car at this track. Improved our PB by a tenth and overall we're happy with the pace and setup of the car now.

We did experience a small issue in the last session of the day. Car had been running fine all day but the last session out the car wasn't pulling properly above 6k rpm. Felt strong and normal below that, but above 6k it had reduced power compared to normal. Came in and ran the code scanner and found a pre-cat O2 sensor heater code. Unfortunately we didn't have time to go back out on track to test if clearing the code solved the issue, but not sure why it came up in the first place. We'll inspect the O2 sensor before next event and replace if needed - maybe some of the wires melted or got damaged. Hopefully the O2 sensor is all the issue is and it's nothing more serious. Otherwise the car worked great lol. Next time out we'll have our Solo 2 DL wired up and in the car which will be great!

Here's some onboard video of the car at our local track. Camera was a bit too high and the quality is meh at times - sound quality is pretty good at least. Next time we might use the GoPro instead of the the iPhone. I feel like this angle of being able to see the driver is much better then just on the front window, but setting it up is a PITA as you need to go in from the trunk to try to set the angle properly


Last edited by tsk94; 07-08-2020 at 06:29 PM..
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      07-08-2020, 08:22 PM   #77
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Made me realize another advantage of the E90...Camera mounting and adjustment through the rear doors!
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      07-08-2020, 08:28 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartledoo View Post
Made me realize another advantage of the E90...Camera mounting and adjustment through the rear doors!
So true! I'm sure some people were wondering what I was doing climbing through the trunk just to adjust a camera mount haha.
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      07-09-2020, 07:37 AM   #79
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Your car has 4.10s right?
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      07-09-2020, 10:47 AM   #80
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Thanks for sharing the build. Very cool! I noticed in your last video you short shift at around 7-7.5k. Is it to maintain temps , traction etc?
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      07-09-2020, 11:07 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by //steve\\ View Post
Your car has 4.10s right?
Yes it does.

Quote:
Originally Posted by elim11 View Post
Thanks for sharing the build. Very cool! I noticed in your last video you short shift at around 7-7.5k. Is it to maintain temps , traction etc?
Thanks elim.

Mostly to manage temps and just be easy of the motor. This was in the afternoon after it had rained and the track surface was slow. Had already beat my PB earlier in the day and was very satisfied with that so this was just some easier fun laps.

We'll work on figuring out the camera position and angle for next time and then we can get some more representative laps on video. But I figured this would still be worth while to post
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      07-11-2020, 07:38 AM   #82
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Can you shine some light on to the AC delete.
I have been planning on doing this but there is very little info.
Some of my questions are:
Belt size
Error message
Coding needed
AC line to firewall block off

Any info highly appreciated.

Amazing built. Also awesome work on your suspension.
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      07-11-2020, 06:31 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlrid3r View Post
Can you shine some light on to the AC delete.
I have been planning on doing this but there is very little info.
Some of my questions are:
Belt size
Error message
Coding needed
AC line to firewall block off

Any info highly appreciated.

Amazing built. Also awesome work on your suspension.
Thanks for the kind words.

Regarding the AC delete. There are 2 belt configurations for the S65: a pre 04/2008 and a post 04/2008 configurations. Our car is the earlier version and deleting the AC on early cars is pretty straight forward. If your car is a later version I can't be of much help so hopefully you got an early model like ours! Anyways, we used a 31.25" 6 rib belt once we removed the AC compressor. No coding was needed to remove the pump. You will get an ECU code error if you were to run a code scanner saying the AC compressor is not working - since it's no longer there, but no dash lights or anything like that. We removed the heater core at the same time so the AC and heater lines were simply closed with a block-off plate at the firewall.

Hope that helps If you got a later model car with the newer belt configuration give Bimmerworld a call - they can explain the options you have, it's not nearly as straightforward as the earlier cars but it can be done.
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      07-11-2020, 10:22 PM   #84
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AC delete for 2008+ requires you to buy an older power steering pump that spins the other direction. Then it's a simple belt change.

Otherwise, get an electric power steering pump and detach the whole thing.

Not straightforward
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      07-12-2020, 07:14 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk94 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlrid3r View Post
Can you shine some light on to the AC delete.
I have been planning on doing this but there is very little info.
Some of my questions are:
Belt size
Error message
Coding needed
AC line to firewall block off

Any info highly appreciated.

Amazing built. Also awesome work on your suspension.
Thanks for the kind words.

Regarding the AC delete. There are 2 belt configurations for the S65: a pre 04/2008 and a post 04/2008 configurations. Our car is the earlier version and deleting the AC on early cars is pretty straight forward. If your car is a later version I can't be of much help so hopefully you got an early model like ours! Anyways, we used a 31.25" 6 rib belt once we removed the AC compressor. No coding was needed to remove the pump. You will get an ECU code error if you were to run a code scanner saying the AC compressor is not working - since it's no longer there, but no dash lights or anything like that. We removed the heater core at the same time so the AC and heater lines were simply closed with a block-off plate at the firewall.

Hope that helps If you got a later model car with the newer belt configuration give Bimmerworld a call - they can explain the options you have, it's not nearly as straightforward as the earlier cars but it can be done.
Great and thanks. Yes mine is early model. I won't remove the heater core. I like to keep the heat. Just not the AC. I'll block the AC lines as well. I'll CAD some block off plate.
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      07-12-2020, 11:03 AM   #86
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Any chance you weighed the ac components?


Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk94 View Post
Thanks for the kind words.

Regarding the AC delete. There are 2 belt configurations for the S65: a pre 04/2008 and a post 04/2008 configurations. Our car is the earlier version and deleting the AC on early cars is pretty straight forward. If your car is a later version I can't be of much help so hopefully you got an early model like ours! Anyways, we used a 31.25" 6 rib belt once we removed the AC compressor. No coding was needed to remove the pump. You will get an ECU code error if you were to run a code scanner saying the AC compressor is not working - since it's no longer there, but no dash lights or anything like that. We removed the heater core at the same time so the AC and heater lines were simply closed with a block-off plate at the firewall.

Hope that helps If you got a later model car with the newer belt configuration give Bimmerworld a call - they can explain the options you have, it's not nearly as straightforward as the earlier cars but it can be done.
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      07-12-2020, 02:16 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M43S7RO View Post
Any chance you weighed the ac components?
Not individually. If I remember correctly, the total weight savings was 25-30lbs - condenser, compressor, AC lines.
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      07-28-2020, 12:54 PM   #88
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Solo 2 & July 25+26 Track Weekend

Got around to wiring in and installing our Solo2DL last week. Ended up mounting it on the far driver side air vent with an aluminum bracket we made up. Out of the the way when driving but easy to glance at and still able to get a strong GPS signal so we're happy with this location. Nice to be able do data analysis with this car now.










Was at the track on Saturday and Sunday this past weekend and got some good track time in. Got to put the Solo to work and are very happy with it thus far. Lots of data to go over. Aim experts - what parameters are you primarily looking at when analyzing lap times? I was using GPS speed, TPS and Brake pressure to compare lap data. Anything else I should be looking at that would be helpful?

Decided to run our 275 NT01's this weekend to burn them up (still got life left on them, they just keep on going lol), so wasn't expecting much. Seems like we're really starting to get the setup dialled in though, both of us ran PB's on the 2 year old NT01's and got within a second (9 tenths to be exact) of the ST3 lap record that's held for the last 4 years! That's been our benchmark and to get that close on mediocre tires is very encouraging. With the 295 RR's we expect at least a 1/2 to 3/4 second gain, super happy with how the car is working. The plan is to test the car with some 295 A7's (with some extra weight to remain ST3 legal) later this season to see the difference between lighter car with 295 RR's and a bit heavier with a much stickier 295 A7.

Only downside this past weekend has been our OEM brake setup. As mentioned from our last track day we started to reach the limits of our brake setup. This past weekend was more of the same. Pushing the car harder and going considerably faster than last season has shown that the weakest point of the car is our brakes. With a stickier tire the problem would just be even worse. This is something we are looking to address in the near future and hopefully will have an exciting update from the brake department coming soon

Last edited by tsk94; 07-28-2020 at 01:15 PM..
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