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KEEP M3POST ALIVE BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER LINK! |
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10-29-2014, 03:18 PM | #1 |
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Wheel Spacers
Yesterday my wife got into a little fender bender in our 2011 e90 zcp . The damage is very minor to the back bumper, but since I'm getting it fixed I'm using this as an opportunity to get some other things done I wanted to at the same time (oem exhaust mod, black chrome exhaust tips, repaint hood from previous chips and dings).
I'm interested in wheel spacers, but am not sure if they are a good idea, and if so what is the best size for this car. I don't want any rubbing, but love the more aggressive look when they are pushed out a bit. From what I could find online the common thing seems to be 12mm in the rear and 15mm in the front. I think that config looks great. Will this cause any issues? I don't plan on getting new wheels/suspension at all. I love the zcp wheels and suspension as it is. I'm buying new lugs because my original ones are a little rusty. Figured if I'm going to go with spacers now is the time so I don't have to buy another set of lugs to fit them. What do you all think? Any opinions/concerns are welcomed!! |
10-29-2014, 06:54 PM | #2 | |
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10-29-2014, 06:59 PM | #3 |
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10-29-2014, 11:03 PM | #5 |
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10-31-2014, 12:27 PM | #8 |
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Mine vibrates like crazy over 55mph after putting on spacers. Taking it in to get a rebalance with the spacers. I am running 19" Axis Wheels. Spacers are 25mm in front and 15mm rear. The rear rubbed just slightly so in going to a 10mm in the rear.
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10-31-2014, 11:53 PM | #9 |
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I'm running 15F/12R MS spacers as well on my E90 with ZCP wheels and stock tires. No issues.
I would note that MS spacers come with extended bolts already, so there's really no need to replace your old bolts unless they're really that bad. |
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11-01-2014, 06:04 AM | #10 | |
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To avoid vibrations, it is critical that you tighten bolts properly. 1. Go around the "circle" tightening every other bolt. Tighten each one only partially as you go around with the wheel off the ground. 2. Lower the wheel to the ground for final tightening, but do not put the full weight of the car on the wheel. Use just enough weight to keep the wheel from spinning (front) during the final tightening. The rear wheel can be fully tightened completely in the air so that it is totally unweighted. 3. Use a torque wrench and tighten down to 90 lb-ft. Again, do this in an alternating bolt pattern until all bolts are tightened. This method will seat the wheel/spacer/hub as properly as possible to minimize vibration risk. Over time, you may still develop a mild vibration. Usually it is really insignificant and very easy to live with. Or you can loosen and re-tighten.
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11-02-2014, 08:08 PM | #11 | |
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The car was a track car at the performance center before I bought it and has some pretty bad chips on the hood, been wanting to get that repainted for a while now. Going to come out looking like a new beast! |
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11-02-2014, 08:09 PM | #12 |
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Thanks, I was going to buy bolts if I didn't get the spacers. They actually are pretty rusty, but now I'm killing two birds with one stone by getting spacers that include the bolts
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