WTB: Throttle Actuator Used/New

[Jab555]

Anyone have a used or new throttle actuator laying around? Replaced the gears on mine and it turned out to be the board that was bad on the actuator. Car keeps going into limp mode and feels like a 318i. Text/call me at 42five7362three05 (I live in Kirkland)

Thanks,

James

[TWiTCHY]

Sorry to hear this happened. How many miles were you at?

[TWiTCHY]

This may help: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1227441

[M3GarageKing]

bump i also need one! please pm me

[Jab555]

Originally Posted by TWiTCHY

Sorry to hear this happened. How many miles were you at?

67k miles, went into limp mode. I was noticing the idle was pretty rough for the past year or so but didn't think much of it. The gears were so worn out when I removed them. With the new gears it idled perfect and felt so much better, the board didn't seem to survive though.

[Jab555]

Originally Posted by M3GarageKing

bump i also need one! please pm me

I got one from "rcracin" on the forums here. Used with 10k miles, he said he had a pair of them. Located in NYC.

[TWiTCHY]

Jab555 , do you think replacing the gears as preventative maintenance would have prevented the board from dying? The gears are much cheaper than replacing the actuators.

[Shredicus]

Originally Posted by TWiTCHY

Jab555 , do you think replacing the gears as preventative maintenance would have prevented the board from dying? The gears are much cheaper than replacing the actuators.

Hard to say at his stage, but I just did my gears preemptively at 73k before throwing any codes. Wear on both banks was significant but not as horrific as some others I've seen that've thrown codes. Here's hoping this is a solution and I'll report back with some miles on them. Initial impressions though are throttle response(especially at lower RPM wide throttle openings) and idle quality are much improved, although I did fuel purge valve and ICV at the same time.

I was also able to source the replacement gears by odometergears for under $100 through a 3rd party auto parts site, so to me this was very cheap insurance compared to ~$800 an actuator. The replacement DIY is not particularly hard, but will take some patience.

[TWiTCHY]

Originally Posted by Shredicus

Hard to say at his stage, but I just did my gears preemptively at 73k before throwing any codes. Wear on both banks was significant but not as horrific as some others I've seen that've thrown codes. Here's hoping this is a solution and I'll report back with some miles on them. Initial impressions though are throttle response(especially at lower RPM wide throttle openings) and idle quality are much improved, although I did fuel purge valve and ICV at the same time.

I was also able to source the replacement gears by odometergears for under $100 through a 3rd party auto parts site, so to me this was very cheap insurance compared to ~$800 an actuator. The replacement DIY is not particularly hard, but will take some patience.

Thanks for sharing Would you mind PM'ing me the details of the place you purchased the gears from? I might have to do this, too, as I'm approaching 70k within a few months.

Would you say your idle was sort of trembling before the replacement?

[Shredicus]

Originally Posted by TWiTCHY

Thanks for sharing Would you mind PM'ing me the details of the place you purchased the gears from? I might have to do this, too, as I'm approaching 70k within a few months.

Would you say your idle was sort of trembling before the replacement?

Yes I would say that's a fair description. The whole car would tremble a little more than I felt a v8 this smooth should. I know my motor mounts are probably shot, but the inherent balance of the motor should be apparent at idle.

For the gears I posted a link over in the DIY thread, along with my ordeal regarding a different set of gears I picked up on ebay, but here's a direct link:
https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/new...ml?3593=556050

It's also good to clean/lube all the throttle linkages as mine were quite gritty/squeaky and you may as well give the throttle bodies themselves a wipe. Lots of helpful info and advice if you are planning on doing this here:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735033

[TWiTCHY]

Originally Posted by Shredicus

Yes I would say that's a fair description. The whole car would tremble a little more than I felt a v8 this smooth should. I know my motor mounts are probably shot, but the inherent balance of the motor should be apparent at idle.

For the gears I posted a link over in the DIY thread, along with my ordeal regarding a different set of gears I picked up on ebay, but here's a direct link:
https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/new...ml?3593=556050

It's also good to clean/lube all the throttle linkages as mine were quite gritty/squeaky and you may as well give the throttle bodies themselves a wipe. Lots of helpful info and advice if you are planning on doing this here:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735033

Hey thanks a lot! I hope to do this very soon.

[Jab555]

Originally Posted by TWiTCHY

Jab555 , do you think replacing the gears as preventative maintenance would have prevented the board from dying? The gears are much cheaper than replacing the actuators.

I agree with shredicus. I imagine the resistor on the circuit board gets fried when the gears are worn because the board keeps searching for a reading as to where the throttle is. I've heard that people push it off and clear there codes for a few months before changing the gears. I literally pulled my car into the garage as soon as it went into limp mode for the first time. Replaced it from there and it still wasn't early enough. Very easy job though, sorta difficult to remove the torx bolts from the actuators because you have to be careful not to drop the bolts. I just wrapped some electrical tape over the bit so it would hold the bolt after loosening it.

[TWiTCHY]

Originally Posted by Jab555

I agree with shredicus. I imagine the resistor on the circuit board gets fried when the gears are worn because the board keeps searching for a reading as to where the throttle is. I've heard that people push it off and clear there codes for a few months before changing the gears. I literally pulled my car into the garage as soon as it went into limp mode for the first time. Replaced it from there and it still wasn't early enough. Very easy job though, sorta difficult to remove the torx bolts from the actuators because you have to be careful not to drop the bolts. I just wrapped some electrical tape over the bit so it would hold the bolt after loosening it.

Looks like I'll be doing this as preventative maintenance when the parts come in Thanks, Shredicus , just purchased the gears!

[sterile stork]

I have two used actuators from a replacement I did on my 08 last year. I'm in Portland.

[Maypo]

My '08 actuators are available, as well. I am in Puyallup.

[TWiTCHY]

Originally Posted by Maypo

My '08 actuators are available, as well. I am in Puyallup.

Currently in Frederickson. PM me details, please! May be interested.

[Jab555]

Just installed my actuator from rcracin. Car runs perfect now. Didn't even have to clear the codes on first start up

[TWiTCHY]

Originally Posted by Jab555

Just installed my actuator from rcracin. Car runs perfect now. Didn't even have to clear the codes on first start up

Good to hear, and thanks for the update!

[Ron1n]

Bump. I'm in the market for another TVA, as well. Gear replacement didn't fix my problem, as I believe the board itself is shot, even though none of the mosfets look blown to me. I haven't tossed a multimeter on it yet, though, so...I could be wrong.