Would these things concern you when buying?

[mikemulkern96]

I've been looking for a used E9x with low miles for a bit now. I'm finally in a position to purchase, but the options are as follows

1 : 2008 51K miles and manual. Private sale asking $17K. This option is $8K below my original budget.
Had an accident with salvage report. High placement front end damage. "Professionally repaired".
Might have a couple dings and "worn paint". Maybe even a large scrape (but it could have been camera glare). Weve spoken on the phone but I've yet to recieve pictures of all cosmetic damage I've asked for a few times.
No Maintenance records but I have a very good shop taking it for a pre purchase inspection (I'm paying). Cant do an oil check because "its fresh oil".

#2 2011 automatic for $28K at a wholesaler. Expensive but low miles at 37K. I was ready to pounce until I noticed a 2 year 16K Mile gap in records when the car switched owners. "Maintinance" does not even guarantee they changed oil. It could be 3 years 18K since the last change. Power and EDC buttons worn off already, which slightly concerns me, but it does seem like a leg may have constantly rested against or rubbed off the markings.

#3 Slightly more expensive than #2 at $30K but probably willing to haggle. 56K Miles. Manual. New brakes. New tires. Annual oil changes. Same dealership maintenance, 1 owner. Worn out power button they are replacing. 3 Hours away instead of 9.

What would you folks do? Please help a very enthusiastic newb out!

[Banana Hammock]

I would avoid #1.

[SYT_Shadow]

Welcome to the forum

I'll start with a warning: M cars are expensive to own. I hope you have a piggy bank for common issues like rod bearings and throttle actuators/idle control valves.
Although this is the most reliable M car ever built in my opinion, it is still expensive to operate. Tire changes, suspension, etc.

If you live somewhere where it snows and they use salt I would be extremely wary of any car that's been in a major accident. The repair is probably where it will start rusting.

Worn interiors in general tell me the owner didn't care about their car visually and were likely less worried about the mechanical condition of the car. However, all the plastics can be replaced.

[mikemulkern96]

Itll be a good weather driver and a garage baby when not in use. I intend to use it when the roads are clean. The trusty ford truck comes put when the roads are too salty/dirty/snowy.

I'm certainly looking for something that wont need the bearings or rods done for at least a year or two of good driving. Really longer, but financially if I've got to be ready for anything to need $5k in rebuilding soon I'm listening. I've got a well equipped home garage that'll hopefully tackle anything short of a tuning job as both the shop and my experience grow.

This cars first big journey will be over 1,000 miles to a wedding next month. Aside from getting me home from the dealer or seller presumably 300 miles away.

[tmak90]

I'd say #3. There is always room to haggle. New tires, brakes, and better yet 1 owner with maintenance records. Little more expensive than the others but may cost less to fix in the longer term.

You never really know when the rods could go so it would be a gamble the longer you hold out.

[PACarGuy]

#3. Pay now or pay later!

[Mr. BMW]

I would go with option #4 Keep looking.

Forget about #1 and #2 & #3 sounds like they have stories if the power buttons are worn out..

[XKxRome0ox]

skip #1 and #2
how much is #3?
there are many clean cars for sale if you invest some time into searching

of course, look at the forum classifieds
use autotempest.com to search multiple sites at once
including craigslist
even facebook marketplace

[mikemulkern96]

Option 1 is $17K
Option 2 is $28k
Option 3 is $30K

[RosieTheRedM3]

Originally Posted by mikemulkern96

I've been looking for a used E9x with low miles for a bit now. I'm finally in a position to purchase, but the options are as follows

1 : 2008 CHEAP and manual. This option is $8K below my budget all things considered.
Had an accident with salvage report. High placement front end damage. "Professionally repaired".
51K miles
Might have a couple dings and "worn paint". Maybe even a large scrape (but it could have been camera glare). Weve spoken on the phone but I've yet to recieve pictures of all cosmetic damage I've asked for a few times.
No Maintenance records but I have a very good shop taking it for a pre purchase inspection (I'm paying). Cant do an oil check because "its fresh oil".

#2 2011 automatic Expensive but low miles at 37K. This option is $11K more than the salvage. I was ready to pounce until I noticed a 2 year 16K Mile gap in records when the car switched owners. "Maintinance" does not even guarantee they changed oil. It could be 3 years 18K since the last change. Power and EDC buttons worn off already, which slightly concerns me.

#3 Slightly more expensive automatic than #2 but probably willing to haggle. 56K Miles. New brakes. New tires. Annual oil changes. Same dealership maintenance, 1 owner. Worn out power button they are replacing. 3 Hours away instead of 9.

What would you folks do? Please help a very enthusiastic newb out!

Stay away from #1. There is a reason that it is salvage and if you ever want to sell the car, no one would come near it with a 10 foot pole. I would recommend saying away from #2 as well. My reasoning is this, a gap in service/maintenance records happens for many reasons. Either the car wasn't taken to BMW, they did everything themselves, or they just didn't drive it. However, it sounds like this car was driven thousands of miles still. And personally, I don't take it as a good sign that those buttons are faded. My car is 2008 with 63k miles and every single button looks like it just came from the factory. The owner most likely fiddled a lot with the car, which to me shows a lack of inexperience. Seeing as it is only a 2011, those buttons should not be faded unless they were constantly being used. Also, if the car really only has 37,000 miles, those buttons seem like they should still be in perfect condition. I remember back in January when I originally started my search for the perfect M3 for me, I test drove one with 110k miles and the interior and all the buttons looked like they were in great/perfect condition. I just got my M3 a little over two weeks ago. Yeah it took me more than 5 months to find the right M3. Based off what you've provided us, I would go with option 3. Yes it may be more expensive, but at least you'll feel good knowing that the owner cared about the car and got it serviced at the same dealer. I paid a little more than I wanted to but I am extremely happy I did because I feel good knowing that I paid extra for the right reasons.

[XKxRome0ox]

Originally Posted by mikemulkern96

$30K asking.

you didn't provide all the details
but $30k seems like a very fair price for option #3

[dparm]

Originally Posted by mikemulkern96

#3 Slightly more expensive automatic than #2 but probably willing to haggle. 56K Miles. New brakes. New tires. Annual oil changes. Same dealership maintenance, 1 owner. Worn out power button they are replacing. 3 Hours away instead of 9.

I would get this one. Sounds like it has been taken care of and isn't too far away.

Those buttons are notorious for the finish wearing off, I wouldn't worry about it. A used car is going to have minor wear-and-tear.


#1 is an enormous red flag with the salvage title. Most auto insurers won't even cover a branded title like that.

[Bomiz]

#3 try to get for 27-28

[mikemulkern96]

Well, my insurance agency let me know there's no added cost to insure a salvage title.
In a way I was hoping to instantly knock the cheaper and riskier one out of the running.

The shop that the inspection is lined up with (VAC in Phili) seems very knowledgable. They have a lot of experience in salvage work as well as racing and custom jobs. The mechanic I talked to was very reassuring. Should I still stay far away?

[tmak90]

Originally Posted by mikemulkern96

Well, my insurance agency let me know there's no added cost to insure a salvage title.
In a way I was hoping to instantly knock the cheaper and riskier one out of the running.

The shop that the inspection is lined up with (VAC in Phili) seems very knowledgable. They have a lot of experience in salvage work as well as racing and custom jobs. The mechanic I talked to was very reassuring. Should I still stay far away?

If you ever one day plan or have to sell the car, a salvage title may be harder to sell since a majority of people would rather go with a clean title. One day the value of a clean titled M3 may even go up as these cars get more rare with time.

[mikemulkern96]

Originally Posted by tmak90

If you ever one day plan or have to sell the car, a salvage title may be harder to sell since a majority of people would rather go with a clean title.

Im probably going to sound ridiculous as I dont even own the car yet, but my long term plan is to enjoy it a for as long as possible, then put a turbo (or two), a good tune, etc. on that V8 and chassis as opposed to trading or selling for something else.

[Montaver]

1 and 2 - no way
3 - Maybe, I'd look at it and get a feel for the owner. A worn out power button doesn't make much sense to me, I barely ever press it as I have what I want programmed to the M on the steering wheel.

[mikemulkern96]

Originally Posted by Montaver

1 and 2 - no way
3 - Maybe, I'd look at it and get a feel for the owner. A worn out power button doesn't make much sense to me, I barely ever press it as I have what I want programmed to the M on the steering wheel.

Good point. I have a theory that the worn buttons may be from an outstretched leg rubbing it. That's very much what the case seems for #2 by the shape of the wear. Could a long leg reach there?

As for #3, "popped off" was the description used by the sales associate. Which doesn't seem completely unheard of.

Thanks for the advice so far folks! I absolutely see the trend.

[monterey]

I have a question. Which one do you like?

[M3_92101]

Gap in maintenance records doesn't necessarily mean that maintenance wasn't done. I wouldn't write off #2 so fast since it's the lowest milage. I think it warrants further investigation...

How about posting photos of #2 & #3, including photos of the switch wear?

[mikemulkern96]

Originally Posted by monterey

I have a question. Which one do you like?

I appreciate this. They all have their benefits...Car #1 has cost, Car #2 has low miles, and car #3 has a solid report...Hmm... But this being said the 36K miles car may not need bearings or rods as soon.

Originally Posted by M3_92101

Gap in maintenance records doesn't necessarily mean that maintenance wasn't done. I wouldn't write off #2 so fast since it's the lowest milage. I think it warrants further investigation...

How about posting photos of #2 & #3, including photos of the switch wear?

The car Fax and wear (or glare) for car #2 are attached. I circled any concerning spots in red.

[PACarGuy]

Originally Posted by mikemulkern96

Well, my insurance agency let me know there's no added cost to insure a salvage title.
In a way I was hoping to instantly knock the cheaper and riskier one out of the running.

The shop that the inspection is lined up with (VAC in Phili) seems very knowledgable. They have a lot of experience in salvage work as well as racing and custom jobs. The mechanic I talked to was very reassuring. Should I still stay far away?

If the car is not downtown, I'd take it to Mike Y at Bavarian Specialties in King of Prussia, PA. They are the shiz. 31 years in the business and they've been racing BMW's for a lot of those years.