Alex Alpine ECU Tune

[Alex@Alpine]

Originally Posted by MPower7

I just went from stage 1 no test pipes to stage 2 with test pipes and I thought I would see a much bigger difference. It just feels a lot more smooth under acceleration. What did you do to update your stage 2 file?

Stage 2 when you go catless you lose bottom end torque because of less back pressure from the cats and gain more top end HP.

You need 3-4 pulls on the dyno to get accurate reads, on these vehicles as you do more and more pulls the reading goes higher. He did a single pull. I'm sure if he did a couple more the number would start climbing.

[BOOF-M3]

Originally Posted by Alex@Alpine

Stage 2 when you go catless you lose bottom end torque because of less back pressure from the cats and gain more top end HP.

You need 3-4 pulls on the dyno to get accurate reads, on these vehicles as you do more and more pulls the reading goes higher. He did a single pull. I'm sure if he did a couple more the number would start climbing.

Interesting, I didn't notice any loss of low end Alex. Actually pulled further on like non modded M's with stage 2 than with stage 1.

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by Alex@Alpine

Stage 2 when you go catless you lose bottom end torque because of less back pressure from the cats and gain more top end HP.

You need 3-4 pulls on the dyno to get accurate reads, on these vehicles as you do more and more pulls the reading goes higher. He did a single pull. I'm sure if he did a couple more the number would start climbing.

Since I have the valved ipe muffler, would closing the valves help increase back pressure to get more HP?

And on this run I tried to get the AFR. At this shop it’s been an issue with my car and some other BMW’s going to the shop but not for other makes. So the shop will let me know what parts he needs to order to make it read but he at least noted the computer didn’t recognize any knock.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by Route 16

on a dyno jet expect 15-20% reading loss and this is to the wheel, not crank

+6HP from stage 1 to stage 2, yeah it is small but from my stock dyno pull at 318...to 348...+30HP jump, I'm ok with

and again consider heat soak, warmer weather, rev limiter back to stock...I uploaded an updated stage 2 file last night at home so we'll see what that makes later on

i pulled 355 on dynojet in 100F+ with no tune and just test pipes. you need to be doing more pulls. as the computer adapts.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by Alex@Alpine

Stage 2 when you go catless you lose bottom end torque because of less back pressure from the cats and gain more top end HP.

You need 3-4 pulls on the dyno to get accurate reads, on these vehicles as you do more and more pulls the reading goes higher. He did a single pull. I'm sure if he did a couple more the number would start climbing.

tune related: this tune is for power, different from your tune just for o2 sensors correct?

coding related: i've heard/read that you can now configure M button/mode to full DSC off? Is this true? Stock is unchanged, or MDM, or DSC on.

[Alex@Alpine]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

tune related: this tune is for power, different from your tune just for o2 sensors correct?

coding related: i've heard/read that you can now configure M button/mode to full DSC off? Is this true? Stock is unchanged, or MDM, or DSC on.

I do not have a tune to just go catless unless you custom request a stock file for catless car.

Some years of e9X m3s allow you to select DSC full off in m mode, other years it can be coded in yes.

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by Alex@Alpine

I do not have a tune to just go catless unless you custom request a stock file for catless car.

Some years of e9X m3s allow you to select DSC full off in m mode, other years it can be coded in yes.

I did it some years ago with you, just wanted a tune to rid of the cel. could've been that. plus it was dirt dirt cheap aka most likely not a power tune.

Dang I need that M button coding done. I'll send you an email or text/

[Bomiz]

Originally Posted by Route 16

Since I have the valved ipe muffler, would closing the valves help increase back pressure to get more HP?

And on this run I tried to get the AFR. At this shop it’s been an issue with my car and some other BMW’s going to the shop but not for other makes. So the shop will let me know what parts he needs to order to make it read but he at least noted the computer didn’t recognize any knock.

Do you have the IPE X pipe on your car?

[Alex@Alpine]

Originally Posted by Route 16

Since I have the valved ipe muffler, would closing the valves help increase back pressure to get more HP?

And on this run I tried to get the AFR. At this shop it’s been an issue with my car and some other BMW’s going to the shop but not for other makes. So the shop will let me know what parts he needs to order to make it read but he at least noted the computer didn’t recognize any knock.

Closing the flaps you'll get more torque. You should feel it when you are driving around in the city

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by Bomiz

Do you have the IPE X pipe on your car?

Oem mid pipe with 2ndaries and resonators deleted

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by Alex@Alpine

Closing the flaps you'll get more torque. You should feel it when you are driving around in the city

I’ll try that since I always leave it open in the city to scare children

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by M3 Number 86

i pulled 355 on dynojet in 100F+ with no tune and just test pipes. you need to be doing more pulls. as the computer adapts.

More pulls is the next plan

[tigermack]

You should note that the runs were pulled in different condition, temp/humidity factors in.

[94jedi]

Originally Posted by BOOF-M3

Interesting, I didn't notice any loss of low end Alex. Actually pulled further on like non modded M's with stage 2 than with stage 1.

I'll second this, but w/ pulley's maybe the loss of low-end was masked/minimized. It also felt like it rev'd to redline much quicker, minimizing the time spent in the low end rpm range.

[monterey]

I just did the stage 2 today and felt the loss in torque. The pull from my car is very linear now. Before I felt a power band at 4k. Now its gone, its just a very linear pull from start to finish. I have to get used to it, Before I would hover around 4k in case i wanted to pull hard but now I feel it's no longer there. The power is now evenly spread thru the entire rpm. Very different.

[Alex@Alpine]

Originally Posted by monterey

I just did the stage 2 today and felt the loss in torque. The pull from my car is very linear now. Before I felt a power band at 4k. Now its gone, its just a very linear pull from start to finish. I have to get used to it, Before I would hover around 4k in case i wanted to pull hard but now I feel it's no longer there. The power is now evenly spread thru the entire rpm. Very different.

The tune does not cause you to lose bottom end torque, it actually adds in bottom end torque.

Stock pipes/cats help build up pressure causing more bottom end initial torque.

By removing the primary cats you do gain a great deal of top end HP, but if you are the guy who drives from light to light, 0-20mph all the time stock pipes might work best.

[sibhusz06]

So had my ECU and GTS tune installed last weekend and have driven about 300 miles..

1. The ECU tune seems to have resulted in about a 2mpg improvement in my overall driving which is 80 highway 20 city. I was getting about 260 miles a tank and have gone up to about 290 miles now.
2. The difference below 3k is very subtle but right after 3k, I notice a slight difference up to 5k and beyond that it seems even more stronger.
3. I did notice my idle seems smoother now, although it wasn't bad before its just the car is so quiet and void of any engine noise in the cabin.

As to the DCT tune..

1. Some of the low speed buck that I would get when moving or coming to a stop is gone, although when I would drive in d1-d3, I wouldnt notice it with the factory tune, only when in D4, D5. This GTS tune defaults to D2, and I can't tell if this was done on purpose to avoid the buck.

2. It seems like my engine start/stop is not working. Although I don't use it.

3. When I select D4, in auto mode, the car switches to manual mode as I come to a stop and have to put it back into auto mode. I think there is a software bug here but not sure if this is on purpose.

Curious if anyone has noticed the oddities I have on the GTS tune??

[wyatth]

The problem is that you are using D modes. (kidding)

[SDPLV]

Originally Posted by sibhusz06

So had my ECU and GTS tune installed last weekend and have driven about 300 miles..

1. The ECU tune seems to have resulted in about a 2mpg improvement in my overall driving which is 80 highway 20 city. I was getting about 260 miles a tank and have gone up to about 290 miles now.
2. The difference below 3k is very subtle but right after 3k, I notice a slight difference up to 5k and beyond that it seems even more stronger.
3. I did notice my idle seems smoother now, although it wasn't bad before its just the car is so quiet and void of any engine noise in the cabin.

As to the DCT tune..

1. Some of the low speed buck that I would get when moving or coming to a stop is gone, although when I would drive in d1-d3, I wouldnt notice it with the factory tune, only when in D4, D5. This GTS tune defaults to D2, and I can't tell if this was done on purpose to avoid the buck.

2. It seems like my engine start/stop is not working. Although I don't use it.

3. When I select D4, in auto mode, the car switches to manual mode as I come to a stop and have to put it back into auto mode. I think there is a software bug here but not sure if this is on purpose.

Curious if anyone has noticed the oddities I have on the GTS tune??

The bucking for sure has smoothed out from before but it is still there when slowing down.

You can usually mitigate it by slowing earlier, otherwise you'll face a harsh downshift jerk. Don't see any real way around that. It's just how these S65s are made, I guess. Gives the car such a different feel then any other car.

The D2 default is on purpose. Can easily shift with paddle and put it in S from there.

Factory had it default to S and you had to DCT stick shift again to move it to D.

Don't have auto on/off. So can't say on that.

Your file is jacked. Should not throw you out of D into S ever on its own.

The other way around, when in S, it can and will downshift on its own when slowing but that's the extent of it.

[BOOF-M3]

Originally Posted by sibhusz06

So had my ECU and GTS tune installed last weekend and have driven about 300 miles..

1. The ECU tune seems to have resulted in about a 2mpg improvement in my overall driving which is 80 highway 20 city. I was getting about 260 miles a tank and have gone up to about 290 miles now.
2. The difference below 3k is very subtle but right after 3k, I notice a slight difference up to 5k and beyond that it seems even more stronger.
3. I did notice my idle seems smoother now, although it wasn't bad before its just the car is so quiet and void of any engine noise in the cabin.

As to the DCT tune..

1. Some of the low speed buck that I would get when moving or coming to a stop is gone, although when I would drive in d1-d3, I wouldnt notice it with the factory tune, only when in D4, D5. This GTS tune defaults to D2, and I can't tell if this was done on purpose to avoid the buck.

2. It seems like my engine start/stop is not working. Although I don't use it.

3. When I select D4, in auto mode, the car switches to manual mode as I come to a stop and have to put it back into auto mode. I think there is a software bug here but not sure if this is on purpose.

Curious if anyone has noticed the oddities I have on the GTS tune??

Contact Alex, he will sort it out.

[sibhusz06]

Yeah I contacted him and he told me its normal for GTS software...thats why I was wondering if the rest of you have noticed when putting into D4, the car switches to manual mode when coming to a stop...

[PKL]

Originally Posted by wyatth

The problem is that you are using D modes. (kidding)

Lol, except not kidding.