Brake pulsating

[EnVe46]

This topic has been beat up and I've read a decent amount of the threads. Some say it's deposits on the pads some say it's from letting the pad sit on a hot rotor. Now my pads have a ton of life left but I do notice a lip on the outer edge of the rotor showing the wear. I haven't got a caliper gauge yet but I'm pretty sure they are due for replacement at 60k and previously raced on the ring. One thing I couldn't find if replacing the rotors only will be ok? I suppose if there are deposits on the pads it won't fix my issue. I'll snap some pics shortly but just looking for advice on swapping rotors/pads together or get away with rotors only. Will be daily street driving no track use for now.

[JsL]

You can get a set of oem pads for about 140USD.
Probably safer to just replace them and not have any doubt about the degraded performance of your pads, which is a critical safety item.

BMW E9X M3 front pads- Textar 2331207
BMW E9X M3 rear pads- Textar 2373001

[dparm]

As long as you are not changing to a radically different pad compound, changing just the pads on an existing rotor, and vice-versa.

I don't remember precisely, but I don't think the OEM pads actually go all the way to the edge of the rotor face, so a slight lip is inevitable. You should be able to measure rotor thickness without taking the wheels off.

I would try re-bedding to see if you can scrape off some of the deposits. Worst case is that it doesn't improve and you end up replacing stuff anyway. Recommended method:
https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Path=6446_6443

[EnVe46]

Originally Posted by dparm

As long as you are not changing to a radically different pad compound, changing just the pads on an existing rotor isn't really a problem. (e.g. going from OEM pads to a race-only pad is a no-no)

So putting new rotors on with these pads is ok? I'm not sure what pads they are as I just purchased it so I guess I'm answering my own question and should just replace everything

[roastbeef]

you've got some pad transfer there, so you'll have to bed them in.

[JH M3]

Originally Posted by dparm

As long as you are not changing to a radically different pad compound, changing just the pads on an existing rotor, and vice-versa.

I don't remember precisely, but I don't think the OEM pads actually go all the way to the edge of the rotor face, so a slight lip is inevitable. You should be able to measure rotor thickness without taking the wheels off.

I would try re-bedding to see if you can scrape off some of the deposits. Worst case is that it doesn't improve and you end up replacing stuff anyway. Recommended method:
https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Path=6446_6443

I recommend trying to re-bed as well. I had the same thing happen to me (slight shaking when braking from highway speeds). Re-bedded the brakes and all is fine now. I've got ECS rotors and Cool Carbon pads.

After 60k my rotors were close to minimum thickness so I replaced them. It was strongly recommended to me to replace rotors and pads at the same time even though my old pads had plenty of life on them. I think it has to do with the surface of the pad conforming to the face of the old rotors but I'm not sure.

[EnVe46]

Originally Posted by JH M3

I recommend trying to re-bed as well. I had the same thing happen to me (slight shaking when braking from highway speeds). Re-bedded the brakes and all is fine now. I've got ECS rotors and Cool Carbon pads.

After 60k my rotors were close to minimum thickness so I replaced them. It was strongly recommended to me to replace rotors and pads at the same time even though my old pads had plenty of life on them. I think it has to do with the surface of the pad conforming to the face of the old rotors but I'm not sure.

Ill try re-bedding them and see if that helps. Im pretty sure the rotors are in need of replacement so Ill probably end up doing a full brake job once I move but it'll make the 12 hr trip to Florida much more enjoyable getting rid of the shakes!

[askme]

In case others come back to this. After replacing a control arm, I had horrible pulsating braking. Mechanic commented it was “going crazy”. After reading posts about control arm bushings I tried the re-bedding procedure above. Sorted it right out.