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      01-22-2014, 04:19 PM   #221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vastano View Post
After having a kinda high reading of 28ppm of lead using TWS 10w-60, I switched out to Mobil 1 0w-40. I'm happy to report my number is down SIGNIFICANTLY. I know i'll get some people saying the oil change interval wasn't as long this time around, but I'm fairly certain the shorter interval doesn't have as much to do with the lower number as much as the 0w-40 does....

Nice, so that is 3 of us with improved lead levels since switching to Mobil 1 0w40
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      02-05-2014, 07:52 PM   #222
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My oil report came in after my first oil change and I think I should have ran the oil a little longer. Seems like the dealer had done an oil change prior to me buying the car. Not much information from this one I suppose? Looking forward to the next one after 6500miles on 0w40.
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      02-05-2014, 09:01 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///mawana View Post
My oil report came in after my first oil change and I think I should have ran the oil a little longer. Seems like the dealer had done an oil change prior to me buying the car. Not much information from this one I suppose? Looking forward to the next one after 6500miles on 0w40.

Without TBN and TAN it's hard to say how much longer it could've gone. Viscosity is still within spec and none of the elemental metals looks high.
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      02-05-2014, 10:28 PM   #224
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Adding my report to the thread:
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      02-06-2014, 07:25 AM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX View Post
Adding my report to the thread:
While not everyone agrees with switching oils, with that kind of lead ppm, I'd switch to lighter oil. Just my 2 cents.
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      02-06-2014, 08:18 AM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
Without TBN and TAN it's hard to say how much longer it could've gone. Viscosity is still within spec and none of the elemental metals looks high.
Thanks for looking, I will pay for TBN and TAN next time - I didn't because I suspected the oil hadn't been in there that long judging by the color and what the sales guy had told me.
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      02-07-2014, 11:35 AM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///mawana View Post
Thanks for looking, I will pay for TBN and TAN next time - I didn't because I suspected the oil hadn't been in there that long judging by the color and what the sales guy had told me.
Color means nothing, unless you are looking for coolant contamination. Oils turn black under use.
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      02-11-2014, 09:27 PM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leonardo629 View Post
The above two analysis show too much bearing wear. I'd start a set of procedures to start controlling the wear, such as take it easy for the first 5~10 miles of your drive, and inevitably change to M1 0W40 because it just flows so much easier for your cold starts.

My first M1 0W40 analysis showed zero lead wear, and I do lots of short trips with my M3, meaning lots of cold starts. And sometimes I'd let the car sit for a week and a half between drives.

Just a thought.
I assume that's because you don't have lead bearings in your 2013 car?
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      03-03-2014, 05:58 PM   #229
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Oil report

Here is my oil report. Sorry for bad image. 08 m3 14,500 miles, 10w/60, lead at 12. Oin change once a year with about 3500 miles between each change
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      03-03-2014, 07:13 PM   #230
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08 with only 14500 miles? You need to drive more often!
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      03-03-2014, 08:50 PM   #231
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Here is my latest report. Switched to M1 0-40 during the oil change.
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      03-11-2014, 09:41 PM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e92zero
Here is my latest report. Switched to M1 0-40 during the oil change.
Why switch when you have zeros for lead going across the board? I don't even think I've seen that good of a report before.
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      03-11-2014, 09:48 PM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupes View Post
Why switch when you have zeros for lead going across the board? I don't even think I've seen that good of a report before.
his car is 2011. he probably has the updated bearings that don't have any lead in them
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      03-11-2014, 09:51 PM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petros
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupes View Post
Why switch when you have zeros for lead going across the board? I don't even think I've seen that good of a report before.
his car is 2011. he probably has the updated bearings that don't have any lead in them
Ahh, good call. So what do you look for on a 2011+ to determine bearing wear?
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      03-11-2014, 09:58 PM   #235
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Guys, for the umpteenth time, you cannot use a UOA as the only gauge for bearing wear. Even Blackstone says it is not an authoritative way to check engine health. There will be engines that run for 200,000 miles with high particulate counts, and some that need rebuilds in 20,000 with "perfect" reports.
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      03-11-2014, 11:39 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupes View Post
Ahh, good call. So what do you look for on a 2011+ to determine bearing wear?
I am unsure if this is still the case as this was a January quote ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by regular guy View Post
The 2011 bearings (702/703) do not contain copper. The OP might want to look for tin and aluminum instead. But it's unclear how much tin/aluminum to look for as a warning sign in these new bearings.

Last edited by M3-S65; 03-11-2014 at 11:52 PM..
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      03-12-2014, 10:50 AM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupes View Post
Why switch when you have zeros for lead going across the board? I don't even think I've seen that good of a report before.
One of the major reason I switched was after I installed an oil pressure gauge, I have noticed that on cold starts where I left the car outside over night, the oil pressure is way high in the 95-100 range. It's almost like the oil is not flowing at all for a minute or 2. If you leave a bottle of 10-60 outside over night in the winter, you will know what I mean. I figured as I don't drive hard at all, it wouldn't hurt to give it a test during the cold time just to see. Oil pressure never went pass 90 during cold starts with the 0w-40. Another plus I think with 0w-40. Will see what BS looks like during the next oil change. Leaning towards using 0w-40 year round but undecided on what to use during the summer months yet. For sure will use it during winter season.
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      03-12-2014, 11:19 AM   #238
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It looks like blackstone doesn't create their averages for the years where lead/copper were removed, no?
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      03-12-2014, 01:09 PM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
It looks like blackstone doesn't create their averages for the years where lead/copper were removed, no?

Their averages are generally for a given engine. They don't differentiate between the years.
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      03-12-2014, 01:53 PM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
Their averages are generally for a given engine. They don't differentiate between the years.
Yeah, it appears that way indeed; probably not common for auto manufacturers to change the internals like this so it may be difficult to differentiate the years.
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      03-14-2014, 07:52 PM   #241
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Lead was high. Change interval was about 14k. I used 0w40 to try and get my lead down this time.
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      03-17-2014, 09:05 AM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian_Fantana View Post
Lead was high. Change interval was about 14k. I used 0w40 to try and get my lead down this time.
I don't think 18 PPM of lead on a 14k mile interval is all that bad...

Also, the oil report says 10w/60, is that in error?
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