[SOLVED: STUCK INJECTOR] First Emergency Mode, then doesn't start anymore

[jvictormp]

Hi!

I'm a new owner of a M3 E92 2008 6MT, live in Brazil, bought the car about 40 days ago. Have run about 2,000km since then, and now the car has 68,000km (43,000 miles).
I had a problem this morning, the exact day I took this picture of it:




After doing a full throttle acceleration in 2nd gear up to 8,000RPM, shifted to 3rd, up to 8,000RPM again and suddenly a warning showed up and the car started to deccelerate, the throttle didn't keep response, the RPM limit decreased down to about 4,000 or 5,000, heard some two or three pops in the exhaust, like a misfire, and waited the speed to come down.

Temperature was okay, key was in my pocket (that easy access system, don't know the exact name), fuel half the tank.

The car was working weakly, I ran more 0.5km or so, and pulled it to the side of the road, to try to figure out the problem. It kept the idle ok, but I decided to shut off the engine.

Smelled gas, like a little crude, and a little misfired. No leaks anywhere, no oil, no gas, but the smell of gas was coming from the hood cold air intake hole.

I Ran a Carly Diagnosis, and the results are below (the black ones were there before, and the red ones are new):

Engine / Motor
Fault Code: 002739
Fault Explanation: Air mass meter secondary air electrical
diagnostic
Fault Code: 0027C5
Fault Explanation: Air mass meter secondary air plausibility
Fault Code: 00278D
Fault Explanation: generator communication
Fault Code: 002B39
Fault Explanation: Misfiring with shutdown Zyl. 5
Fault Code: 002B57
Fault Explanation: Engine emergency program activated
Fault Code: 002796
Fault Explanation: Engine emergency program activated


Instrument cluster / Kombiinstrument
Fault Code: 00A559
Fault Explanation: :Klemme30g f shutdown / KL30g f shutdown /
KL.30g f shutdown / KL30g f Cutoff

CAS
Fault Code: 00A0BA
Fault Explanation: :Hall sensor SSTA A0BA / Hall sensor SSTA KS

Park Distance Control / PDC
Fault Code: 009E3A
Fault Explanation: :Fault location: Wandler lines VMR

Passive Go System
Fault Code: 00A0A7
Fault Explanation: ays2 WUP no answer / DAYS BFT WUP no
answer

Fussraummodul /FRM
Fault Code: 009CBF
Fault Explanation: :disturbed communication with StepperMotorBox
left / defective SMC left


So I cleaned up the faults, I tried to start the engine.

The starter ran the engine, but it didn't burn. It kept trying to start until after some ten seconds I gave it up.

Tried to remove the KL30g relay and put it again, tried to start, same problem.

So this was the solution for the moment:



At home something different happened: I tried to start again and the stater worked less than one second or so, and then stopped. The engine electronics seem not to "want" to let engine try the start. Tried sometimes again, the same problem occurred.

Don't know what to do at this moment.

Would it be the KL30g? If so, would the engine continue to run like it did, instead of shutting down immediately?

I don't know if this is related but last night, I disconnected the battery to try to dismount the steering wheel and see why the horn doesn't work. Even oppened the fuse box where the KL30g stays, but didn't disconnect any fuse or relay. No work done, closed the fusebox, didn't dismount the steering wheel, reconnected the battery and went to sleep.

I'd appreciate any help.

[///M Power-Belgium]

In your situation , you should call your local BMW/Dealer

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium

In your situation , you should call your local BMW/Dealer

Yeah, that's what I'm doing after all options are wasted. In Brazil we don't have insurance for mechanical problems, so going to the dealer means becoming poor, like pretty poor.

[BPMSport]

Replace coil and plug in cylinder 5, clear codes, and enjoy the car again

Not a bad idea to do all coils and plugs depending on mileage.

As far as starting, check battery voltage first.

Also looks like there is a secondary air problem, but this will not cause limp mode or affect performance. You can either fix this or have it tuned out.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by BPMSport

Replace coil and plug in cylinder 5, clear codes, and enjoy the car again

Not a bad idea to do all coils and plugs depending on mileage.

As far as starting, check battery voltage first.

Also looks like there is a secondary air problem, but this will not cause limp mode or affect performance. You can either fix this or have it tuned out.

Hey, BPMSport!

Thank you so much for your attention.

Would you kindly answer me another doubt about this?

If the problem is in only one cylinder ignition, wouldn't the engine start anyway and then register the fault on that cylinder again?

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Hey, BPMSport!

Thank you so much for your attention.

Would you kindly answer me another doubt about this?

If the problem is in only one cylinder ignition, wouldn't the engine start anyway and then register the fault on that cylinder again?

It should, but it's strange that it was running fine and then all of a sudden doesn't want to. This can be due to a number of issues. Have you checked battery voltage?

[jvictormp]

I've taken off the Kl 30g and another green relay I don't know which, and mount again.

Then tried to start again, and the engine ran!

But it was difficult, with so many cylinders misfiring, with great smell of gasoline. Give some little throttle, but decided to shut down again.

Now the fault codes were to misfire at all cylinders.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by BPMSport

It should, but it's strange that it was running fine and then all of a sudden doesn't want to. This can be due to a number of issues. Have you checked battery voltage?

No. But it's turning the engine, all electric items are running fine.

The battery was replaced about 60 days ago, it's not BMW Genuine, but it's new.

Anyway, I'll check it now.

[amrazM]

Open the glovebox, find the junction box behind the access panel, look for the heavy red gauge cable, try to jiggle it then see what happens.

[Solo_M_Tech]

Your alternator is most likely over charging, causing a huge voltage spike to the dme, causing most if not all of your issues. See appropriate trouble code in your list.

Fault Code: 00278D 
Fault Explanation: generator communication

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by Solo_M_Tech

Your alternator is most likely over charging, causing a huge voltage spike to the dme, causing most if not all of your issues. See appropriate trouble code in your list.

Fault Code: 00278D*
Fault Explanation: generator communication

Should I try to disconnect the alternator plug and run the engine to see what happens?

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by BPMSport

It should, but it's strange that it was running fine and then all of a sudden doesn't want to. This can be due to a number of issues. Have you checked battery voltage?

So, battery voltage is 12.06V



Now it's showing Battery Charge Very Low warning.

Tried to crank the engine, but it stops in less than half second. All the electric items seem to turn off, then on again.

I recorded a video during the procedure:

Google Photos - Cranking Engine

[BPMSport]

Battery is toast as I expected.

Replace, reset and try again

Also looks like there is a non standard battery and some strange wiring in your battery photo.

12.06 standing is well below the minimum threshold.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by amrazM

Open the glovebox, find the junction box behind the access panel, look for the heavy red gauge cable, try to jiggle it then see what happens.

Would it be that red cable at the right side of the picture?

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by BPMSport

Battery is toast as I expected.

Replace, reset and try again

Also looks like there is a non standard battery and some strange wiring in your battery photo.

12.06 standing is well below the minimum threshold.

That's right, it's a non standard battery.

I'd like to know more about BMW batteries. There is a thing of "AGM" and other details that I'm not aware of. A common battery of the same "Ah" capacity wouldn't fit the car? Doesn't it charge correctly?

So, as today is a Sunday and I don't have any store to go to get a new battery, I'm giving a try on this battery slow charger:

[jvictormp]

Sad to say, but the previous owner put a much much less power battery.

It's a 55Ah, CCA 400.

EDIT: Not true, made bad conclusions. It's a 95Ah, 720CCA, non-AGM.

[jvictormp]

After about 16 hours of slow charging, I measured the voltage of the battery with the battery tender connected, and it was 13.00V.

I turned the tender off, measured the voltage again and... okay, not so bad..



Then, I went into the car, plugged Carly, cleaned up the faults, DID NOT crank the engine, and measured the voltage again and:




It has not been 10 minutes, I think! And the voltage felt to 12.30V!

So, I'm afraid to try to crank the engine.

Maybe I should make a jump start with other car in my garage. The problem is that the M3 is facing to the back of the garage, and the other car is facing the front, they are back to back, and I don't have a long enough cable to connect the front of each car.

So, what would be the safest way to make a jump start in the trunk of the M3, since it's got the IBS?

[Alexand3r]

That battery is dead. Don't waste time with it. That self-discharge is not normal for a good battery. If you crank the car it will get 11V or even lower.

It's safe to jump it from the back. Just attach the cables to the terminals of the battery. The positive one is a bit tight, but you'll find a way to attach the cable.

[jvictormp]

I made the jump start, but the same problem happened.

I made bad conclusions about the battery, it is not 55Ah, it's 95Ah, 720 CCA, non-AGM. That was because I wasn't able to see correctly in the trunk. My bad.

I took it off the car, and went to a electrical workshop where a charge test was made. The test was okay, the battery seems to give the desired current, lowering the tension to 11.0V or above.

That made me give up and send the car to an "Indy Shop", as you guys say around here. It's a BMW specialized.

There I was said that they will make a test with an AGM battery, then they will do the BMW protocol, with BMW scanners and so.

Could be a simple relay, or an expensive alternator, a pump, whatever.

[jvictormp]

Hi there.

Opened up the throttle body, and there was a FUEL FLOOD!!!!!!!!

We can say that a little more of engine running, and I would need a new engine.

New battery, AGM 95Ah.

Got rid of the flood, found three injector nozzles failing: one locked open, and two with leakage when closed.

Made correction on the three failing nozzles, mount again, I started the engine.

Not good, we have misfire in all cylinders again, that rough running of the engine and we are suspecting that we'll need to buy the 8 injectors and 8 plugs.

[jvictormp]

After persevering on the injectors, they managed to get the engine to work fine again. No problems at all.

We suspect that the problem was:
The previous owner said that he never used premium gas, only regular 87 octane fuel, without cleaning aditives. I thought it would be good to start changing the fuel to 87 octane with cleaning aditive little by little.
When I went away to work, leaving the car home stopped for 2 weeks, the fuel system may have loosen dirt, which ended up going to the injector nozzle and stuck it.

So the fuel tank was drained and we put an advanced cleaner with 5L of premium gas, ran the engine, idling for some time to clean the system.

Now I'm only running 97 octane premium fuel.

Besides that, we changed the oil and filter to avoid problems with fuel contamination in the oil.

[jvictormp]

Reporting back. After two years, 7000 km, two track days, the rod from that cyl 5 gave up and broke in three pieces. It shows some signs of fatigue, which can only have happened in the event of this post (hydrolock).

More details: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1851485