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04-21-2019, 12:46 PM | #1 |
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HELP! I dont know what is the problem!
Symptoms:
* car turned off by itself at the light. * at low rpm, car jerks a little bit and shows the error "check engine" + low emission 1) my car was showing check engine light with low emission, so i ran the computer and it was showing bad alternator. my buddy told me car jerks at low rpm because it's not getting enough electrical power due to bad alternator. 2) few days later, my car didnt start, it just made a "click" noise and the car didn't start 3) i ordered a new alternator and swapped it out 4) jumped the car (when i was jumping the car, it took at least 4~5 seconds to start, with delayed click noise) and was driving it for an hour or so, i turned off the engine and tried to start it again in an hour or so, it didnt start, still made the same click noise 5) i thought it was the bad battery, took it to the autozone and checked both battery and alternator, they are both in good condition. my question is, what do i need to change? is it my starter that is bad? did i really need to swap out the alternator? i mean, it's always good to get a new part into the car, but if there was something wrong with my starter, why did it show bad alternator code on the computer? please help! i've been dealing with this issue for over 2 weeks now! |
04-21-2019, 07:29 PM | #2 |
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When you say the car tried to start for 4-5 seconds, you mean the engine is actually turning over? This means your starter is engaging.
Please give a few more details on the car; year, transmission, etc. Even though the auto store said the battery is good this is likely the culpret. What is the age of the battery? Have you put it on a charger to ensure a full charge? Even then it may still be bad.
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04-21-2019, 08:43 PM | #3 |
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Stop being a cheap MF and change the battery
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commedeschatons134.00 |
04-21-2019, 10:52 PM | #5 |
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it's 08 with automatic
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gQ...4XcshC-R7A_jui here is the link to the video when im trying to start the car. i also ran the battery voltage, it's showing 12V before i tried to start it, 11.8V after i tried to start the car. lol im not trying to be cheap mf, most likely i will swap out the battery too, but i want to fix all the problem when im working on the issue. let me know what you guys think. |
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04-22-2019, 01:31 AM | #7 |
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04-22-2019, 07:10 AM | #8 |
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Check the engine ground between the oil pan and car frame on the driver side.
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04-22-2019, 01:28 PM | #9 |
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04-22-2019, 02:37 PM | #11 |
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he was pretty damn specific, check the grounding cable that goes from the oil pan to the frame on the drivers side of the motor.
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04-22-2019, 03:27 PM | #12 |
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It disintegrates and causes issues you might think are a bad battery or starter or alternator. To do a test, the next time you cant start the car, add a temporary ground using a second set of jumper cables as ground cables from the bare metal on the engine block to the chassis. Then try to start or jump start the car.
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04-22-2019, 10:10 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
Not because what you suggest is wrong, it's exactly what any competent technician would do as a test. However, I've read his responses, and his OP. He's not capable of this test without frying something or starting a fire.
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2014 M5 6MT
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04-22-2019, 10:13 PM | #14 |
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This is where you put the car on a flatbed, and have it towed to your favorite Indy shop or dealer. Let the technician have his diag time, and he/she will come up with the solution. Saving you both time and money.
This isn't a car you throw parts at. That's a very deep, and expensive rabbit hole with a giant weenie at the bottom, and no lube.
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04-24-2019, 09:56 PM | #15 |
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https://drive.google.com/open?id=1mr...A0imcke-sYHUoD
so i pulled the battery out and this just came off from the bottom portion of the battery spot. corrosive from the battery rusted the whole thing and it fell apart. and i took the battery itself to the different autozone and they said they cant test it because battery is in real bad condition, it's swollen. do you know what this is? im assuming it has something to do with the bringing power to the front? because after hooking up the battery, it wont get any power to the front (where you would normally jump the car) anyway, car doesnt start even with the new battery. so im gonna guess it has something to do with this cable. any ideas? do i just order the replacement part and it snaps right in? can i DIY? |
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04-26-2019, 01:11 PM | #17 |
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there was no water, but it seems like there was a water damage
i got the new part and it works great now the problem was a combination of bad battery + broken wire however, i got P0091 code when the car started, however it went away now also, what would have caused a water leak? |
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04-26-2019, 02:40 PM | #18 |
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I like the new crop of people getting these cars, because I feel like a lot will be junked, and those of us that are extremely OCD with ours will see rising values
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I did a lot of things to it. |
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04-26-2019, 03:36 PM | #19 |
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Isn't yours bagged wrapped and supercharged?
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04-26-2019, 05:42 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
You need to verify that you dont have any more water leaking in the battery box or you will have issues again. If the seal around the trunk is in bad shape it can leak. Spray water on the trunk and taillights and see if the inside of the trunk and battery box is wet. Do a search for water leaking into the battery box for the E9x. |
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05-01-2019, 12:14 AM | #22 |
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I will definitely check on the leak
I have other problem right now, my check engine light isn't going away I believe it's because of p0091 code (I believe this is fuel sensor?) I read some other post, and it has very similar symptom. 1)engine losing power while driving with engine malfunction. 2) rpm not going past 2k while this is happening. 3) engine turning off when not moving I just want to make sure changing the fuel sensor would solve this problem. anyone had a same issue as mine? i read the other post, and it seems like this is the jack pot. jc, why would fuel sensor cause this problem? |
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