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      08-09-2013, 08:11 PM   #23
Magnetic Fusion
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Still waiting on my part to come in. I ordered an extra O-ring just in case. Got my OBDII Bluetooth dongle in today and reread my codes. This time popped up a P0175 and P0191 (Fuel Rail Pressure). I think I read on this thread that this is still related to the Low Pressure Sensor. My sensor should be here in a few days. Thanks for the heads up on the 10 minutes airbox removal. I knew this is NEVER the case when working on cars. I bought some socket extenders because I haven't dipped into what it looks like in there yet. The write up was awesome I will be using that for when I tear my car apart.
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      08-09-2013, 08:33 PM   #24
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For the Low Pressure Fuel Sensor what part number did you use? I think I ordered the wrong part I ordered P/N 13537622231 Which says "Low Pressure Sensor. I saw someone order 13537614317 (But it says for 335i/ix). I checked for a 2008 E92 M3 and I got the diagram for the part I ordered. So I think I ordered the correct part but I want to make sure.
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      08-09-2013, 08:47 PM   #25
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The write up was awesome I will be using that for when I tear my car apart.
You're welcome. Don't get me wrong, I wasn't trying to insult other members here who are almost certainly way more handy than I am. I just don't want the "average Joe" to think this is a 10 minute job they can do with 1 eye closed after downing a 6-pack. I know some of my time was wasted on figuring out the right tools and cleaning the filter as I mentioned.

I ordered my part from here:

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-20...1-f10-f12.aspx

According to the link; Part #: 13537614317 (13-53-7-614-317)

And a little update on my car. I drove it on the highway to an appointment, in light traffic, and had the chance to really push it. I had several 8K shifts and achieved speeds which I will not admit to in writing for fear of LEO

My car is running perfectly. No codes. I feel confident at this point that the issue is completely fixed.

Best of luck to you and any future member who attempts this. It's great to fix something yourself and save yourself significant money. My dealer wanted $300 just for labor and diagnosis and more than $100 for the part (if it turned out to be that part, which they said it may not). I saved close to $350 and a lot of my time sitting around in their waiting room. Maybe more because one problem with having others do the work is they can say any part is bad and unless you really know your stuff you can't challenge them. Heck if they said your fuel pump is bad, you have 2 bad O2 sensors, etc.. what would I have had to do? Charge a $1000+ repair on my credit card I never needed.

Thanks to all members who have contributed to this great thread.

c
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      08-09-2013, 09:14 PM   #26
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Great I ordered the wrong part then. RealOEM lied to me Here is the picture with the, obvious, wrong number http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...96&hg=16&fg=15 When I look up the other number is trickly shows the 335i/ix ONLY...But now I'm reading other threads where they used the P/N you supplied also. Maybe I can return the part I ordered and get my $135 back! I'm ordering the part from Turner right now...Thanks! I'm hoping to get this completed this week when I get the parts in.
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      08-10-2013, 01:50 AM   #27
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Yes, P0175 and P0191 both relate to thelow pressure fuel sensor. I was getting these two--and about 3-4 others--before replacing mine. No codes since, about 2-3 weeks out.

Also, either part will work--the $130 realoem shows or the $70 equivalent mentioned in various threads. I used the cheaper one based on others' recommendations and experiences. Again, no problems here.

Check out the other thread(s). Good info there, including my own experience in codes, replacement procedure, etc.

Good luck!
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      08-11-2013, 01:39 PM   #28
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Well I got bad news. This morning my car threw some errors, including Engine Malfunction! Reduced Power! And DSC Inactive!

So I guess my celebration was premature. Damn I thought I had this situation corrected. I checked the connection with the sensor and everything is fine, no fuel leakage whatsoever and the electrical connector itself is intact as it should be.

For those that said to clear the codes after re-installing the sensor, all my error messages went away but I never disconnected the battery. I guess I will try that before making an appointment to have the car checked out, but at this point I lost most of my optimism...

Any thoughts/advice feel free to post up. Thanks.

c
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      08-13-2013, 10:00 AM   #29
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Thank you thank you!!
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      08-13-2013, 10:34 AM   #30
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I did both 02 and the sensor. Was getting CEL pretty much every drive prior. Have not gotten any in 200 miles since. Will need more miles and variety of driving to be sure I solved the problem for my $200 parts investment. Seems very unlikely to me that I had both issues at the same time or even that both 02 went at the same time (was getting codes for both banks being rich).
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      08-13-2013, 11:23 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cotenseto View Post
Well I got bad news. This morning my car threw some errors, including Engine Malfunction! Reduced Power! And DSC Inactive!

So I guess my celebration was premature. Damn I thought I had this situation corrected. I checked the connection with the sensor and everything is fine, no fuel leakage whatsoever and the electrical connector itself is intact as it should be.

For those that said to clear the codes after re-installing the sensor, all my error messages went away but I never disconnected the battery. I guess I will try that before making an appointment to have the car checked out, but at this point I lost most of my optimism...

Any thoughts/advice feel free to post up. Thanks.

c
What are you using to read codes? And after your recent errors thrown, what codes have popped up since then, are they still related to fuel press., rich conditions banks1/2...? Could be issues elsewhere...

For everyone else, probably close to 500-600 miles now since the lfp sensor change, mostly highway DD driving with a handful of runs up to redline...still no codes.
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      08-14-2013, 06:56 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3AN MOJOE View Post
What are you using to read codes? And after your recent errors thrown, what codes have popped up since then, are they still related to fuel press., rich conditions banks1/2...? Could be issues elsewhere...
I'm not and most certainly that is part of the problem

I don't have anything to read the codes. I took a shot (I know that's risky) by replacing the sensor based on the original error messages (increased emissions, reduced power).

Now I'm only getting DSC inactive, reduced power msgs. I was hoping it might be some kind of residual code causing the fault, but despite my searching I could find no way to clear codes without using some kind of scanner/programming tool, which I do not own.

So... I'm taking'er in tomorrow. Will report back after with my findings. Not what I wanted to do but I don't feel like buying an expensive code reader and then not being able to solve the problem(s) anyway.

c
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      08-15-2013, 02:39 PM   #33
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Bad news/good news for me...

The bad news is it turns out they believe the culprit is a throttle position sensor. 5.5 hours labor (dealer time) + 1 hour diagnostic time + sensor cost = $1050. Ouch.

Now, there was a little more news and it was also bad. He said that sometimes replacing the sensor doesn't solve the problem, so it probably makes sense to replace the actuator as well, because if they put it back together and now it's still throwing codes, they have to do more labor to go back in and replace the other part. He said that part is $1300
Well, we chatted, and I told him I know my car is out of warranty by 11 months... in service date was 9/2008 so we're awful close to a full year. But the car does have low mileage, I'm sitting at 42,600 which is still under the original 50k threshold.

I'm not delusional (or a dick).. obviously this is out of warranty and I know it, so I wasn't going to argue over the mileage when I know it runs out at 50k or the date, whichever comes first. I nicely asked if there was anything they could do because of the low mileage, and he said he would call his BMW rep and see if they would at least offer to cover part of it. But of course, no promises. I didn't get my hopes up too high.

He called me back a little bit ago and told me BMW agreed to cover both parts, in full, with labor. I am super happy of course because that is amazing customer service. I fully intend to write a letter commending the service manager and dealership to show my appreciation, it's the least I can do.

Hopefully this will be the end of my issues. And since they told me my original low pressure fuel sensor was never the issue, I now have my old sensor available if anyone wants a working one for very cheap, PM me

c
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      08-15-2013, 08:42 PM   #34
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Low Pressure Sensors

Ok so I received both the sensors in that I bought. One being the 13537614317 (335, 535, 750 model) the other being 13537622231 (M3 model). I've taken a picture and put both side by side. The silver one is the M3 version and the gold one is the 335 version. Other than the actual plug connection, these do not look the same! Because of the person I am I'm going to put in the same one that I'm taking out, the M3 version. I do not like incorrect parts being in my cars. I know it cost $50 more but there must be something different about this to make it $50 more. Just by looking at it you can see an obvious conical nipple coming out of the M3 version as opposed to the 335 version. I know it's been working for other people with their M3's using the 335 version but I wanted to post what both look like side by side so the owners can make their own decision. Note the 335 version comes with the o-ring, the M3 version does not. I had to buy that separate (only cost $3.28) So here you go. I will be installing tomorrow. I cleared my codes about a week ago and none have came back yet but I'm sure they will come back eventually (Pre installation). Will update with results if codes come back or not. I'm using a Super Mini ELM327 V1.5 Bluetooth code scanner ($14.00 on Amazon) and Torque App (Android $4.95) to get my codes. Worked like a charm and you can reset your codes too. Don't waste $150+ if you don't need to
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Last edited by Magnetic Fusion; 08-15-2013 at 08:48 PM..
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      08-16-2013, 06:28 AM   #35
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The sensor BMW put on my 08M3 is the brass flanged one on the right in the picture. And I replaced it with the cheaper part that Turner lists as fitting many late models including the 335 and M3, which turned out to be the brass flanged one on the right in the picture. Maybe the sensor was changed for later models, but it looks like you have an 08M3 as well, so it would have to be a change during MY08. I think mine is April.
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      08-16-2013, 11:37 AM   #36
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When replacing mine, I also used the brass version on the RIGHT in your picture, and that is the same type of sensor that came out of my 08M3.

Are you sure you don't have your information reversed (i.e. the sensor on the left is specific only to 335s....)? Those are significantly different looking parts.
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      08-16-2013, 12:34 PM   #37
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This is what I ordered from thebmwpartstore:

SENSOR FOR LOW PRESSURE136040 [Part#: 13537614317] Bmw $69.74

It is the brass flanged sensor on the right and is identical to the one I removed from my 08M3.

As for which sensor is specified for which car, maybe I am confused. eeuroparts, turner and others list this sensor as fitting the 335 and the M3. realoem does not include M3 under the applications for this sensor.

Whatever, it is the same one I removed and no one has worked on my car except BMW and me.
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      08-16-2013, 12:58 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
This is what I ordered from thebmwpartstore:

SENSOR FOR LOW PRESSURE136040 [Part#: 13537614317] Bmw $69.74

It is the brass flanged sensor on the right and is identical to the one I removed from my 08M3.

As for which sensor is specified for which car, maybe I am confused. eeuroparts, turner and others list this sensor as fitting the 335 and the M3. realoem does not include M3 under the applications for this sensor.

Whatever, it is the same one I removed and no one has worked on my car except BMW and me.
My reply wasn't directed at you pbonsalb, I think we are agreeing that the CORRECT sensor is the brass one pictured on the right in Magnetic Fusion's pic.

I was commenting to MagneticFusion's post w/that pic, and based his description, he's implying that the sensor on the LEFT is meant for M3....which I do NOT think is correct.
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      08-17-2013, 12:55 PM   #39
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Ok...so I replaced the sensor...mine also is the brass one on the right. RealOEM either has the wrong part listed or something, maybe updated version because so many go bad? Who knows. So I put the $70 brass one back in and I'll return the $130 version. So I saw a post where a guy said it took ten minutes to do. It took me about 15 minutes....I had to clean my airbox and filter...that added the 5 minutes. And to be honest, if you had an angled wrench you wouldn't even need to removed the airbox and it would take about 2 minutes. Hardest part was putting the airbox cover back on trying to snap it in place. That's a monster air filter in there though. I'm going to search for an upgrade I think for higher flow since mine is a bit dirty...I'm sure it's never been replaced either. I did mine on an empty tank of gas. I got an initial hiss and nothing came out when I unscrewed the sensor. Super easy job but I've rebuilt a M3 engine (inline 6 version) just by looking at the pictures. I'm an engineer by trade so this is all easy stuff. Even a novice can do this though.
So moral of the story....if you have a 08 M3 IT IS THE BRASS SENSOR! I'm glad I ordered both to clear that up because I wasn't the only one confused here I saw. My car seems to idle better, more consistent anyways and it seems to have a bit more pep. It's 80 degrees outside, I'll wait for when it's cold to know for sure. As for codes...well I cleared the codes a week ago and they haven't returned before I changed the sensor. So I'll monitor the car for the next few weeks and see if any come back. I should maybe invest in an extended warranty since I'm at 91k miles. But other than this cheap sensor I haven't had any other problems and I relate the sensor issue to a tank of bad gas. One thing I noticed also, the BMW P/N on the sensor I removed is not the same as the one I put in it yet both sensors look identical Who knows...don't care. Until the next problem arises.
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      07-07-2014, 09:40 PM   #40
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I need to order this part as well. I actually see that the sensors are the same price now. I have an 08 e92 and have the brass sensor in now.... but like said here real oem shows the silver one as the correct one for our car as well as other m models (e.g. f10 m5) etc.

Given they are showing the same price... is the consensus the same that still should go w the brass version?
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      07-20-2016, 06:37 AM   #41
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Just replaced my low pressure sensor with the help of this dyi in about an hour, very easy replacement and got to clean my airbox as well. No fuel shot out for me.

I would put me as a novice in these things so I think most people can do this one.


Thank you very much!
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      08-16-2016, 09:03 PM   #42
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Rough idle on cold start, detonating when hot, low power were all symptoms.
Several cylinder misfire codes, low fuel sensor, o2 pre cat codes, and a few others.

Replaced the low pressure fuel sensor and that fixed it all.
Mine is an '09 (9/08 production) and had the brass version with o-ring.

Thanks!!
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      09-15-2016, 01:59 PM   #43
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Problem Solved!

Thanks for posting your experiences! I had a CEL with Code 2722, replaced the LP Fuel Sensor, and all is well. Also feel like the idle is noticeably smoother.

For the record, I used part # 13537614317 (the cheaper brass looking one), same color/shape as what my 2011.5 had to start with.
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      04-26-2017, 07:50 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AhlingtonBMW View Post
Thanks for posting your experiences! I had a CEL with Code 2722, replaced the LP Fuel Sensor, and all is well. Also feel like the idle is noticeably smoother.

For the record, I used part # 13537614317 (the cheaper brass looking one), same color/shape as what my 2011.5 had to start with.
+1 just had this same issue. thanks to the OP and others for making this an easy fix!
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