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      05-07-2014, 03:57 PM   #45
gan1hck
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didn't realize there were different versions of the rotors....what are the differences?

I assume they all fit on the same hats/hub?



Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
Lutfy -

I was in contact with Lary who kind of gave me an idea of how the process works.

Only foreseeable issue in future would be making sure people have the PFC DD rotor version correct ... V1 vs V2 and the upcoming V3. Could get confusing and lead to gnashing of teeth. Nonetheless I'm pretty excited about a relatively low-cost way to keep the track habit going.

I'd be happy to help defray shipping costs when the time comes. As of now my rotors have < 100 miles on them ... so quite a way to go, I think.

I'll point some of the 1M guys running PFCs to this thread as well!
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      05-07-2014, 08:39 PM   #46
ayao
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You know, now that I look at pictures of the two I think the V1 vs V2 might be the same rings, but with different attachment methods to the rotor hats.

V1 has the bobbins and more attachments points.
V2 has fewer attachment screws with a retaining ring on the hub side of the hat.

V1:
http://cdn.nexternal.com/bimmerworl/...PFC_DD_500.JPG

V2:
http://gtrspectuning.com/images/IMG_...rand=755685395
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      05-27-2014, 03:50 PM   #47
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Okay so I have some news.

Rotors lasted me 12 hours of total track time between Mid Ohio 3 day weekend and 4 days at Summit Point. I usually take students out in A Group hence more time on the circuit.

Long and short, I started off with a set of PF08s and it lasted me 5 days (4 days at Summit and 1 at Mid Ohio). Would run them on the street to and from the track as well. Impressed.

Friday night (ran Sat and Sun) slapped in PF11. Had more bite but turned to dust in one weekend. Unless you are truly racing, PF08s is a better choice for DEs. Yes that initial bite, modulation and release can be addictive.

Both rotors got a crack to the end of the rim on the outside (from where you can see from the wheels). I ordered a new set of PF rings as I don't want to wait 2 weeks. The trashed ones I intend to send to Coleman to be duplicated blank with no drama (dimples, drills, teddy bear) on the rotors. Now we all have a spec to go by I trust them given my past experience along with several club racers. This will slash the price of rotor rings by half.

Anyone else have anything to report?

I do like these rotors. While they last me slightly longer than the stock rotors (reported 10 hours on track), my pad life has gone up significantly (5 days on track vs 2 before). So longer wear (circa 20%) on rotors and 2.5 times savings in pads.

Firm pedal feel except I would need to bleed the brakes as the pedal got a bit mushy. Again, acceptable vs bleeding each weekend.

OEM system has its limitation but for what its worth, I am happy with the above setup especially with the savings over capital outlay of a BBK.

Cheers,

Lutfy
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      05-27-2014, 04:30 PM   #48
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      05-27-2014, 06:34 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lutfy View Post
OEM system has its limitation but for what its worth, I am happy with the above setup especially with the savings over capital outlay of a BBK.
Great data point! The Stoptech stuff will last a little longer than the PFC DD/PF08 combo...but not THAT much longer.

From a cost perspective, probably not worth it going with a BBK if you're not into the car for the long haul (4+ years). If you plan on keeping and tracking it for a long time then a 4 wheel BBK makes a LOT of sense. Just my opinion. Just the hassle of pad swaps made it almost worth it.
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      05-28-2014, 12:05 AM   #50
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This is -great- additional data.

Any chance you could post a pic of the cracked rings? At first I thought you were describing a catastrophic crack all the way through from inside to outside, but in retrospect I think it makes more sense that you're probably talking about heat cracking that has extended to the outer circumference of the rotor.

It sort of sucks in that you'd hope that the rings would run to minimum thickness before having to be chucked, rather than be retired because of heat-cracking. Any sense of how far from min. thickness your used rings are at?

Also final question -- did your rotors end up developing a lip at all?

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by lutfy View Post
Okay so I have some news.

Rotors lasted me 12 hours of total track time between Mid Ohio 3 day weekend and 4 days at Summit Point. I usually take students out in A Group hence more time on the circuit.

Long and short, I started off with a set of PF08s and it lasted me 5 days (4 days at Summit and 1 at Mid Ohio). Would run them on the street to and from the track as well. Impressed.

Friday night (ran Sat and Sun) slapped in PF11. Had more bite but turned to dust in one weekend. Unless you are truly racing, PF08s is a better choice for DEs. Yes that initial bite, modulation and release can be addictive.

Both rotors got a crack to the end of the rim on the outside (from where you can see from the wheels). I ordered a new set of PF rings as I don't want to wait 2 weeks. The trashed ones I intend to send to Coleman to be duplicated blank with no drama (dimples, drills, teddy bear) on the rotors. Now we all have a spec to go by I trust them given my past experience along with several club racers. This will slash the price of rotor rings by half.

Anyone else have anything to report?

I do like these rotors. While they last me slightly longer than the stock rotors (reported 10 hours on track), my pad life has gone up significantly (5 days on track vs 2 before). So longer wear (circa 20%) on rotors and 2.5 times savings in pads.

Firm pedal feel except I would need to bleed the brakes as the pedal got a bit mushy. Again, acceptable vs bleeding each weekend.

OEM system has its limitation but for what its worth, I am happy with the above setup especially with the savings over capital outlay of a BBK.

Cheers,

Lutfy
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      05-28-2014, 08:32 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
This is -great- additional data.

Any chance you could post a pic of the cracked rings? At first I thought you were describing a catastrophic crack all the way through from inside to outside, but in retrospect I think it makes more sense that you're probably talking about heat cracking that has extended to the outer circumference of the rotor.

It sort of sucks in that you'd hope that the rings would run to minimum thickness before having to be chucked, rather than be retired because of heat-cracking. Any sense of how far from min. thickness your used rings are at?

Also final question -- did your rotors end up developing a lip at all?

Thanks!
Sorry I meant heat cracking which reached out outer circumference. Normal for most rotors when you see as being done. I will try to get snaps and post it once I have the replacement rings being installed, give me some time.

No rings. I doubt I reached min spec (at least visually from what I can see). Just heat cracking. But 12 hours of track time is about the limit for any rotors on street cars. Most P cars last 8 track days +/- from what I have been told.

I don't have any ducting either.

I am excited about the Coleman rotors now End of the day, I am not burning through consumables at an alarming rate so am pleased with the setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Great data point! The Stoptech stuff will last a little longer than the PFC DD/PF08 combo...but not THAT much longer.

From a cost perspective, probably not worth it going with a BBK if you're not into the car for the long haul (4+ years). If you plan on keeping and tracking it for a long time then a 4 wheel BBK makes a LOT of sense. Just my opinion. Just the hassle of pad swaps made it almost worth it.
100% agreed. BBK is a much better idea but I want to dispose of this car the moment they come up with the ZCP package on the new M3. Plus I have a major illness. Compulsive modification disorder as its called of CMD. In the past I have ended up with 3 I stock BMW club racers (which started off as street/track cars). One mod and it goes downhill.

So I ended up getting the MOST optioned E90 3700lb car. Each morning I wake up, I realize its a 'handicap' car so not worth throwing good money after a pig. This way she stays stock for the most part (only have camber plates and now ordering swaybars to preserve tire wear. That's it.) and I refrain from all the mental mas**bation which modding brings with it My life is much better driving a stock car I tell you (than a NASA TTA monster).

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      05-28-2014, 02:08 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lutfy View Post
My life is much better driving a stock car I tell you (than a NASA TTA monster).
Delete post. Ban user. [/thread]



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      05-28-2014, 04:18 PM   #53
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Come on lufty. How can you drive such a heavy pig stock
How can you be competitive against modded monsters?
I am just kidding
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