Tough Choices

Bartledoo · 02-27-2019, 08:30 PM

Get a cheaper project car to work on and enjoy during college, and then move up after college. If there is one thing I've learned, it's that you'll never be eternally satisfied anyways. It's better to build your way up than to jump to your current dream scenario right away. You don't want to be stuck in an expensive situation without the means to get out of it comfortably.

MrGatsby · 02-28-2019, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjm41

This was the least important part of my response. But I'll continue playing along with your absurdly adjusted number just to show you how ridiculous you're being:

15.9 gallon tank x 6 miles to the gallon = 95.4 miles per tank.

3 fill-ups per day = 286.2 miles driven per day

286.2 miles per day x 5 days per week is 1,431 miles per week

1,431 miles per week x 52 weeks = 74,412 miles per year

I know lil' buddy, maths is hard.

Find me someone driving a supercharged M3 75k miles per year and i'll eat a turd, live streamed on youtube.

Come on, man. Don't change your rod bearings, do change them, nobody here cares. But don't come around spreading bad info and expect that nobody will call you out.

Just set up a "Ferris Beuller" style contraption in my garage to reach that 74,412 goal this year. Will report back.

Transfer · 03-02-2019, 12:08 AM

What's wrong with kids these days. I had a $3500 civic when I was in college. lol

MachinesWithSouls · 03-04-2019, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Quote:

Originally Posted by lat77

I own 2 and 3 pedal M cars and never once thought that the DCT isn't real driving. By that measure every current Lambo, Ferrari, and McLaren isn't as well.

I have a DCT and 6MT E9X M3 which I can drive back to back and fully agree with your assessment.

For the first time in 15 years I don't have a stick car, and I thought that was a bad thing. But the current 8AT is so good in BMWs, I don't miss it that much. And on the track, it's a boon - you want less load on the driver, but with a stick, you always have to remember what gear, downshift, rev match...it's a lot.

Maybe that's not manly, but it is faster.

m3jala · 03-04-2019, 09:31 PM

We sure are a group of high end financial consultants on here. Wouldn't blame OP for never reading this thread again and just buying the damn car and having a blast for a year.

1MOREMOD · 03-04-2019, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Transfer

What's wrong with kids these days. I had a $3500 civic when I was in college. lol

You're a baller I had a 600 dollar dodge duster.

JP10 · 03-05-2019, 06:18 AM

^ Get off your high horse, $500 1994 ford escort baby, but a year after graduating I grabbed my M3.

Advice for OP since I was stubborn as hell when I got this car. I would hold off as I sometimes wish I had. I got my M for 24k, didn't leave much in the bank account w/ a large downpayment, but my income was steady and I researched for months reading this forum seeing all the problems forum members ran into. Throttle actuators and alternator went after a month of having the car. The positives you can save a lot of money if you're capable with your hands. Throttle actuators(rebuilt w/ lifetime warranty), battery, and alternator only ran me $1000 out of pocket. Also did all fluids when I first got the car, an expense I forgot to add in when deciding my down payment. All labor I did myself since this forum is awesome an has every DIY you can think of.

That said due to the rod bearing issue I was pretty tense driving for the first year, finally pulled the trigger last December and replaced them. I waited a year because funds were relatively tight with all of the other things I was buying(Lots of furniture, lawnmower, tools on tools, adult shit -.- lol). Where I work if we have known casuality report of catostrophic failures we work to replace the part on subsequent equipment, so I like to practice what I preach.

Point being I didn't have a proper preventative maintenance fund set to the side and it was stressful to drive on those bearings with all of the horror stories. You have to remember while 10k to some members might be chump change, to me that would've sunk me lmao. Not really but it would've been a major inconvenience I basically would've had to store the car until I had the funds available, buy a beater to assume the DD responsibility, while continuing to maintain monthly payments on the M.

I'd say learn from my mistake, but damnit do I love this car so I don't consider it a mistake, goodluck!

02-27-2019, 08:30 PM	#67
Bartledoo Driver 2692 Rep 2,714 Posts Drives: 2011 E90 M3 6MT Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Seattle, WA iTrader: (0) Garage List 2023 Corvette Stingray [0.00] 2002 Porsche Boxster [0.00] 2011 E90 M3 [0.00] 2021 Tesla Model Y [0.00]	Get a cheaper project car to work on and enjoy during college, and then move up after college. If there is one thing I've learned, it's that you'll never be eternally satisfied anyways. It's better to build your way up than to jump to your current dream scenario right away. You don't want to be stuck in an expensive situation without the means to get out of it comfortably.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-02-2019, 12:08 AM	#69
Transfer Major General 5250 Rep 5,874 Posts Drives: Bronco Wildtrak, Tesla MYP Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Issaquah, WA iTrader: (1)	What's wrong with kids these days. I had a $3500 civic when I was in college. lol
	Appreciate 1 DRLane3985.50 Quote

03-04-2019, 09:31 PM	#71
m3jala Captain 544 Rep 765 Posts Drives: Jet Black 2013 BMW M3 Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Tysons Corner, VA iTrader: (0)	We sure are a group of high end financial consultants on here. Wouldn't blame OP for never reading this thread again and just buying the damn car and having a blast for a year.
	Appreciate 2 MRAT3D57.00 Chris_Penning76.00 Quote

03-05-2019, 06:18 AM	#73
JP10 Major 2463 Rep 1,144 Posts Drives: M3 Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: SC iTrader: (0)	^ Get off your high horse, $500 1994 ford escort baby, but a year after graduating I grabbed my M3. Advice for OP since I was stubborn as hell when I got this car. I would hold off as I sometimes wish I had. I got my M for 24k, didn't leave much in the bank account w/ a large downpayment, but my income was steady and I researched for months reading this forum seeing all the problems forum members ran into. Throttle actuators and alternator went after a month of having the car. The positives you can save a lot of money if you're capable with your hands. Throttle actuators(rebuilt w/ lifetime warranty), battery, and alternator only ran me $1000 out of pocket. Also did all fluids when I first got the car, an expense I forgot to add in when deciding my down payment. All labor I did myself since this forum is awesome an has every DIY you can think of. That said due to the rod bearing issue I was pretty tense driving for the first year, finally pulled the trigger last December and replaced them. I waited a year because funds were relatively tight with all of the other things I was buying(Lots of furniture, lawnmower, tools on tools, adult shit -.- lol). Where I work if we have known casuality report of catostrophic failures we work to replace the part on subsequent equipment, so I like to practice what I preach. Point being I didn't have a proper preventative maintenance fund set to the side and it was stressful to drive on those bearings with all of the horror stories. You have to remember while 10k to some members might be chump change, to me that would've sunk me lmao. Not really but it would've been a major inconvenience I basically would've had to store the car until I had the funds available, buy a beater to assume the DD responsibility, while continuing to maintain monthly payments on the M. I'd say learn from my mistake, but damnit do I love this car so I don't consider it a mistake, goodluck!
	Appreciate 2 SYT_Shadow11468.50 MRAT3D57.00 Quote