Idle Control Valve clean or replace?

[mjn77]

Just been out in the car and started ok today. Has been stood overnight, but no splutter on startup.

Car probably won't be started again until Tuesday, so we'll see.

[CamasM3e93]

Before and after. I had to use a dental pick to clean off the innards where the valve seats - qtip didn’t cut it.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by CamasM3e93

Before and after. I had to use a dental pick to clean off the innards where the valve seats - qtip didn’t cut it.

Looks like nice job! Curious, did that what seems like relatively little dirt cause issues?

[CamasM3e93]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Looks like nice job! Curious, did that what seems like relatively little dirt cause issues?

My idle is about the same. Cleaning the idle control valve was preventative when I had everything out to ostensibly replace the starter.

[drwankel]

I had my idle air control valve replaced this year, and I noticed a much smoother idle when it was really hot out and I had been beating on the car.

Previously I would get a bit of a bouncing idle in those circumstances. Now its rock solid.

I did not notice any issues before replacement outside of the extreme heat scenario.

[mjn77]

Mine has started doing really bad spluttering at cold start again. Really bad.

So gone back to the specialist this evening. Also got the yellow engine light on.

[Honda]

Try cleaning it first before shedding 900+ on parts alone.
There is not really much functionality in this part other than opening and closing. So the valve might be just stuck and needs cleaning

[a5m]

Originally Posted by Honda

Try cleaning it first before shedding 900+ on parts alone.
There is not really much functionality in this part other than opening and closing. So the valve might be just stuck and needs cleaning

You've done this successfully?

[Honda]

Originally Posted by a5m

You've done this successfully?

yes I did and it turned out great

[a5m]

Originally Posted by Honda

yes I did and it turned out great

Wow that's good to know! How did you do it? I assume you were having issues with it, if so what were the symptoms?

[Honda]

Originally Posted by a5m

Wow that's good to know! How did you do it? I assume you were having issues with it, if so what were the symptoms?

I had idling problems and once in awhile through CEL. I have cleaned it with carb cleaner and brush very well. It is not really that difficult if you have worked on other things on the car.

[a5m]

Originally Posted by Honda

I had idling problems and once in awhile through CEL. I have cleaned it with carb cleaner and brush very well. It is not really that difficult if you have worked on other things on the car.

This is exactly what mine was doing, even threw a 2B0D code. Do you remember what code you got?

Will definitely clean mine when I do the fuel breather valve, thanks so much for the encouragement!

[CamasM3e93]

Originally Posted by a5m

This is exactly what mine was doing, even threw a 2B0D code. Do you remember what code you got?

Will definitely clean mine when I do the fuel breather valve, thanks so much for the encouragement!

Your mileage may vary. I posted photos in the thread above with a visually decent effort but I ended up still having to replace the valve. The issue I think is that the valve doesn’t actuate manually so I was left with gunk I couldn’t get to right where the valve seats against the surface of the pipe. If you have the savvy to force open the valve electrically and can clean the area where it seals, you may end up with a better outcome. Good luck 👍

[spammysammich]

If you can pull it off the car you can manually actuate it just by tilting the flap

[a5m]

Originally Posted by CamasM3e93

Your mileage may vary. I posted photos in the thread above with a visually decent effort but I ended up still having to replace the valve. The issue I think is that the valve doesn’t actuate manually so I was left with gunk I couldn’t get to right where the valve seats against the surface of the pipe. If you have the savvy to force open the valve electrically and can clean the area where it seals, you may end up with a better outcome. Good luck 👍

I somehow missed that, but thanks, I get what you're saying. I'm not that savvy to open it. I might give cleaning a shot. The car hasn't been acting up since last time, so worst case a little repeat work to replace it.

Soaking the unit to loosen the buildup probably isn't possible, and even if it was, it might end up going where it shouldn't.

Originally Posted by spammysammich

If you can pull it off the car you can manually actuate it just by tilting the flap

Hell yea good to know, thanks!

[mjn77]

Originally Posted by mjn77

Mine has started doing really bad spluttering at cold start again. Really bad.

So gone back to the specialist this evening. Also got the yellow engine light on.

I’ve got a hole in the exhaust! Near the cats, so that is a possible culprit for causing CEL and rough start. Even if it isn’t the cause, it needs to be fixed.

[4corners]

I have the typical symptoms. I will clean it before buying the new part, see how it goes.

In a lot of different forums, cleaning will often give good results.

Seems to me, if it's simply acting up then it may not be the electronic part.

next week i'll update.

[Woolfy]

So, When I start my M3 and leave her to idle, after a short while she will go into limp mode. If I switch her off and start again then drive for a while until almost warm then idle again she will go into limp mode again.

Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions of what the problem might be?

Could it be the ICV?

TIA

[Redd]

Pull the codes...

[DrFerry]

Originally Posted by Woolfy

So, When I start my M3 and leave her to idle, after a short while she will go into limp mode. If I switch her off and start again then drive for a while until almost warm then idle again she will go into limp mode again. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions of what the problem might be? Could it be the ICV? TIA

The symptoms you described above are very likely caused by failing Throttle Actuators i.e. recurrent limp mode and rough or lumpy idling. After restarting the issue may disappear for a couple of restarts only to reappear a little later. As Redd mentioned you need to read the codes via the OBD II footwell port with a code reader such as the Foxwell NT510 Elite, the Carly Phone App, Bimmerlink App or ISTA BMW Software. The ICV can cause rough idle as well as hesitation but I'm not aware of the ICV causing limp mode. Use the advanced forum search functionality to research ICV failure symptoms and codes. Good luck and please report back on the root cause.

[Woolfy]

Hi Guys,

Many thanks for your replies. I have had the Actuators done last year. I dont think they are the issue but I could be wrong.

When she idles the idling is not rough! She just goes into limp mode at the two points I mentioned!?

TIA

[DrFerry]

Originally Posted by Woolfy

Hi Guys, Many thanks for your replies. I have had the Actuators done last year. I dont think they are the issue but I could be wrong. When she idles the idling is not rough! She just goes into limp mode at the two points I mentioned!? TIA

The only way to know for sure is to read the error codes. However, my money is still on failing TAs. There are plenty of cases of people (members) on this forum who installed rebuilt, or even new TAs, only to have one or both of them go bad in a matter of months. Good luck in the U.K.