Just signed up for my first HPDE event!

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by spooni

Hey Y'all

Shopping for tires, and the RS4s are bascially unobtainium at the moment.

Any thought on the Yoko A052? Can't find much about them.

Possibly the fastest cheat street tire available. I wouldn't go up the ladder that far so soon.

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by spooni

Hey Y'all

Shopping for tires, and the RS4s are bascially unobtainium at the moment.

Any thought on the Yoko A052? Can't find much about them.

Fast and wear even faster.

Go NT01

[spooni]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

Possibly the fastest cheat street tire available. I wouldn't go up the ladder that far so soon.

So what's your suggestion if the RS4 is nowhere to be found?

[spooni]

Originally Posted by tsk94

Fast and wear even faster.

Go NT01

Maybe after some more seat time

[spooni]

I found a 285/35/18 RS4

Would that be fine to run on an 10/11 wide?

[dparm]

Hankook says that size will work on an 11" wheel, but you are right at the limit of what they have tested. Should be fine for 10".

[M3MPH1S]

Originally Posted by spooni

So what's your suggestion if the RS4 is nowhere to be found?

I've run through several sets of Direzza ZIIIs and love them. Have two friends who switched from RS4s to ZIIIs purely because of unavailability and said it feels like almost the same tire - i.e. not as much grip as RE71, but way better life just like the RS4

[dparm]

That new Falken 660 looks to be another RE71R clone and the initial reviews/tests show it being very fast. No clue how it does in the wet though.

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by M3MPH1S

I've run through several sets of Direzza ZIIIs and love them. Have two friends who switched from RS4s to ZIIIs purely because of unavailability and said it feels like almost the same tire - i.e. not as much grip as RE71, but way better life just like the RS4

I ran Direzza ZIII a couple of years ago when I started on the track and really liked them. Felt they were a great starter tire - like M3MPH1S said wore like tanks, decent grip, and had good breakaway characteristics for a beginner to learn car control / DSC off.

BUT that being said while at Daytona I saw multiple teams/cars running them that had the tread basically delaminate on the them. Certainly a much different situation than a beginner track day & a different animal than your standard road course - but it definitely caught your attention. Didn't see anything like that with any of the teams/cars running RS4's (and I'm not a fan of RS4's). Was pretty freaky seeing how bad a few of them had come apart like that.

[spooni]

Originally Posted by dparm

Hankook says that size will work on an 11" wheel, but you are right at the limit of what they have tested. Should be fine for 10".

It's a tough choice. I want to wait and get a proper staggered fitment... But also my Contis have plenty of life left.

Ordered my EC7s (18x10/11 et25) and I know the 275s will fit, but a bit of a stretch out rear.

Originally Posted by M3MPH1S

I've run through several sets of Direzza ZIIIs and love them. Have two friends who switched from RS4s to ZIIIs purely because of unavailability and said it feels like almost the same tire - i.e. not as much grip as RE71, but way better life just like the RS4

I can't find those in the sizes I need, darn.

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by dparm

That new Falken 660 looks to be another RE71R clone and the initial reviews/tests show it being very fast. No clue how it does in the wet though.

Falken looks really good. Saw them in damp/rain a week ago and seemed in line with bridgestones but at less cost. Big sizes for our cars should hopefully be available in late August. I'm planning on grabbing a set when available.

[spooni]

I think I know the answer but I'll ask it anyway.

Is the R888R a total waste of money?

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by spooni

I think I know the answer but I'll ask it anyway.

Is the R888R a total waste of money?

Paging SYT_Shadow

[dparm]

Originally Posted by spooni

I think I know the answer but I'll ask it anyway.

Is the R888R a total waste of money?

I don't think it is a total waste. Is it the absolute best tire? No.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by spooni

I think I know the answer but I'll ask it anyway.

Is the R888R a total waste of money?

Originally Posted by Ximian

Paging SYT_Shadow

For the M3 I believe it is. It has several bad characteristics rolled into one tire:
-Expensive - more expensive than faster tires like the RE71R
-Extremely noisy - as noisy as a NT01 but much more expensive. In a different order of magnitude than the RE71
-Slow - slower than anything else I've used
-Bad with water - as bad as the NT01 in this regard but slower and more expensive. Much worse than the RE71
-Mediocre duration

I used a set and have never been that disappointed in a tire. I removed them after losing my mind during a 3 day weekend and not being able to understand why I was so much slower than before. Swapped tires to RE71 and immediately gained the time back.

There are other tires I don't run, like the RS4, the NT01, the AD08R... but they are all competent tires which trade speed for durability. The R888R, for an M3, doesn't trade anything, it just sucks all around.

[dparm]

There's one huge thing that the Toyos have going for them: contingency programs. This means that even getting 3rd place in time trial gets me a huge discount on my next set. Of course, there is the issue of "you can't win tires if you don't have fast tires".

The M3 has a nice selection of wheel and tires, so if you think you have access to better options, go for them.

I haven't driven the NT01, but there is no way that tire is better than an R888R in water. It has virtually no voids, especially after some use. To be clear, the R888R is not a great wet tire but it is usable.


FWIW, this is one of my rear tires after 3 track days -- tons of meat left and still enough void/tread for water evacuation. I run them down to the cords and have found it to be fairly durable given the car's weight and lateral G loading.

[spooni]

Originally Posted by dparm

I don't think it is a total waste. Is it the absolute best tire? No.

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

For the M3 I believe it is. It has several bad characteristics rolled into one tire:
-Expensive - more expensive than faster tires like the RE71R
-Extremely noisy - as noisy as a NT01 but much more expensive. In a different order of magnitude than the RE71
-Slow - slower than anything else I've used
-Bad with water - as bad as the NT01 in this regard but slower and more expensive. Much worse than the RE71
-Mediocre duration

I used a set and have never been that disappointed in a tire. I removed them after losing my mind during a 3 day weekend and not being able to understand why I was so much slower than before. Swapped tires to RE71 and immediately gained the time back.

There are other tires I don't run, like the RS4, the NT01, the AD08R... but they are all competent tires which trade speed for durability. The R888R, for an M3, doesn't trade anything, it just sucks all around.

I guess the reason I was lead to these is because the RE71 isn't available in the sizes I need.

But thanks for making all those points, I will not buy these when the time comes for a 100-200TW tire.

Originally Posted by dparm

There's one huge thing that the Toyos have going for them: contingency programs. This means that even getting 3rd place in time trial gets me a huge discount on my next set. Of course, there is the issue of "you can't win tires if you don't have fast tires".

The M3 has a nice selection of wheel and tires, so if you think you have access to better options, go for them.

I haven't driven the NT01, but there is no way that tire is better than an R888R in water. It has virtually no voids, especially after some use. To be clear, the R888R is not a great wet tire but it is usable.


FWIW, this is one of my rear tires after 3 track days -- tons of meat left and still enough void/tread for water evacuation. I run them down to the cords and have found it to be fairly durable given the car's weight and lateral G loading.

I'm really struggling to find a 265/295 or 275/295 setup. Almost nothing exists in these sizes.

Thanks for the insight - I guess it's hard to say no to cheap tires

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by spooni

I guess the reason I was lead to these is because the RE71 isn't available in the sizes I need.

But thanks for making all those points, I will not buy these when the time comes for a 100-200TW tire.



I'm really struggling to find a 265/295 or 275/295 setup. Almost nothing exists in these sizes.

Thanks for the insight - I guess it's hard to say no to cheap tires

Toyo RR, R888R and Nankang AR1 all are available in in 275/295

[spooni]

Just did my second track day on thunderhill west! It was hotter than sh#t, but the car held up well.

A few observations:

Is 260-270 normal for oil temps during a 100 degree track day? Also noticed some shugglish shifts later in the day.

Brakes: Stock pads still... I definetely tested the limit of those. Pedal feel got "chattery" later in the day. Are track pads worth it alone? Or should I put that coin towards a BBK?

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by spooni

Just did my second track day on thunderhill west! It was hotter than sh#t, but the car held up well.

A few observations:

Is 260-270 normal for oil temps during a 100 degree track day? Also noticed some shugglish shifts later in the day.

Brakes: Stock pads still... I definetely tested the limit of those. Pedal feel got "chattery" later in the day. Are track pads worth it alone? Or should I put that coin towards a BBK?

260-270 is normal for a day that hot and the car is fine at those temps. Its possible your trans fluid got a bit too hot causing the sluggish shifting, the same would happen to me before I installed a Slonik DCT pan (holds more fluid and has coolign fins)


Track pads are worth it until you kill your rotors, then explore your options. Good fluid and pads make your day so much more enjoyable.

[Bartledoo]

Make sure you have the best brake fluid first and foremost.

[spooni]

Originally Posted by turbo_joe

260-270 is normal for a day that hot and the car is fine at those temps. Its possible your trans fluid got a bit too hot causing the sluggish shifting, the same would happen to me before I installed a Slonik DCT pan (holds more fluid and has coolign fins)


Track pads are worth it until you kill your rotors, then explore your options. Good fluid and pads make your day so much more enjoyable.

Glad to hear that's normal!

I'll look into the DCT pan. Is the Do88 cooling kit worth the coin?

What pads would you rec?

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

Make sure you have the best brake fluid first and foremost.

RBF600 already sir