Mr12Volt P2000 - Carplay/Android Auto w/M.O.S.T *New Model Update*

[legomanx51v]

Originally Posted by danbav

Thanks for replying. I have had the earlier firmware and updated to this version a few weeks ago.

I have had the click since upgrading from the previous lights version. No click from that box.

This is still outstanding with support. They already sent me a replacement and made no difference. Tried 3 firmwares in total.

I am going to move the box and separate the cabling as best I can in case of any interference.

As you have said when driving easy to ignore but when in traffic it’s really annoying.

If I figure it out or get it resolved I will post it.

Alright, I may have a solution to this problem.

I had similar issues where there would be a clicking or a popping noise coming from the speakers frequently. Sometimes the entire display would turn back to the OEM display. It makes it look like the unit is malfunctioning and turning off and on.

in my case the MOST fibre-optic connector was loose. It doesn’t look like it’s loose because it seats into the unit with a very solid click. However if you hold the connector and shake it up down or left or right while the unit is running you will see that the clicks are heard and the display cuts out.

I think this is because of the female part of the connector that is housed within the unit being slightly too big. My solution was to get string (actually I used floss!) to tie down the plug really tightly by looping it a few times and tying knots each time. I then wedged something into the front of the unit where the text “Mr 12 Volt“ can be seen and hold the tied string sideways until it was really tight and not allowing the connector to move. So far there have been no clicks or popping noises and the screen has not disconnected.

In terms of design/hardware/quality, I think they should’ve used a better quality female socket for the MOST connector.
I also think the unit gets quite hot, I cut out a square section of plastic directly above where there is a heatsink to allow better heat dissipation. I was considering adding a small fan but decided not to do it, for now.

I actually have two of these units, one in the M3 and one in an Audi.
There is a lot of interference noise from the microphone in the M3 while the Audi is perfect.
There is a lot of video screen flicker and interference in the Audi while in the MMI (original OEM interface) and there isn’t in the M3!

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by legomanx51v

Alright, I may have a solution to this problem.

I had similar issues where there would be a clicking or a popping noise coming from the speakers frequently. Sometimes the entire display would turn back to the OEM display. It makes it look like the unit is malfunctioning and turning off and on.

in my case the MOST fibre-optic connector was loose. It doesn’t look like it’s loose because it seats into the unit with a very solid click. However if you hold the connector and shake it up down or left or right while the unit is running you will see that the clicks are heard and the display cuts out.

I think this is because of the female part of the connector that is housed within the unit being slightly too big. My solution was to get string (actually I used floss!) to tie down the plug really tightly by looping it a few times and tying knots each time. I then wedged something into the front of the unit where the text “Mr 12 Volt“ can be seen and hold the tied string sideways until it was really tight and not allowing the connector to move. So far there have been no clicks or popping noises and the screen has not disconnected.

In terms of design/hardware/quality, I think they should’ve used a better quality female socket for the MOST connector.
I also think the unit gets quite hot, I cut out a square section of plastic directly above where there is a heatsink to allow better heat dissipation. I was considering adding a small fan but decided not to do it, for now.

I actually have two of these units, one in the M3 and one in an Audi.
There is a lot of interference noise from the microphone in the M3 while the Audi is perfect.
There is a lot of video screen flicker and interference in the Audi while in the MMI (original OEM interface) and there isn’t in the M3!

Excellent find. This makes complete sense.

[Vexter182]

Do you all think its possible that a FW update will allow us to make a call on the oem bmw bluetooth while mr12v screen is on? We should request the feature to mr12v if it is. I feel like the call quality is the only thing lacking from this great box.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by Vexter182

Do you all think its possible that a FW update will allow us to make a call on the oem bmw bluetooth while mr12v screen is on? We should request the feature to mr12v if it is. I feel like the call quality is the only thing lacking from this great box.

I've had a chance to make and receive a few calls now on the new DSP unit. My phone (iphone) is paired to both the OEM bluetooth, and running wireless carplay with the P2000. Every time I receive or initiate a call when in carplay, it sends me back to idrive with oem bluetooth to handle the call, and then goes back to the p2000 when its done.

The original p2000 box would switch to idrive with oem bluetooth to initiate a call, but would remain in Carplay whenever I received a call and used whatever mic was plugged into the p2000. Always seemed like a bug to me, and I guess they must have thought so too as the behavior is changed in the DSP box.

With that quirk fixed, I've never actually used the p2000 mic for a call on the DSP box, so I have no idea what it sounds like. So that solves the sound issue. The problem with the oem handoff setup, is that it switches the screen back to idrive. So if you were looking at a navigation app in carplay for example, you are now looking at the idrive call screen instead, when you very much might be wanting to look at navigation in that exact moment in time.

[Vexter182]

Originally Posted by drwankel

I've had a chance to make and receive a few calls now on the new DSP unit. My phone (iphone) is paired to both the OEM bluetooth, and running wireless carplay with the P2000. Every time I receive or initiate a call when in carplay, it sends me back to idrive with oem bluetooth to handle the call, and then goes back to the p2000 when its done.

The original p2000 box would switch to idrive with oem bluetooth to initiate a call, but would remain in Carplay whenever I received a call and used whatever mic was plugged into the p2000. Always seemed like a bug to me, and I guess they must have thought so too as the behavior is changed in the DSP box.

With that quirk fixed, I've never actually used the p2000 mic for a call on the DSP box, so I have no idea what it sounds like. So that solves the sound issue. The problem with the oem handoff setup, is that it switches the screen back to idrive. So if you were looking at a navigation app in carplay for example, you are now looking at the idrive call screen instead, when you very much might be wanting to look at navigation in that exact moment in time.

That's the exact problem im talking about. When Im using the navigation with the P2000 i suddenly get a call which uses the OEM bluetooth and now I dont know where to turn lol.

I want to be able to use the OEM bluetooth phone calls while looking at the navigation on the P2000. I wonder if this can be fixed with a FW update.

[Cyberdemon]

Aside from my first broken microphone, my wife and folks I've talked to in the car have not complained about the audio. I'm curious how many with bad audio quality are just suffering from poor QC on the microphones. Mine seemed obvious in the sense that it just didn't work at all - but perhaps it's a more widespread issue.

My only gremlin is intermittent noise or the reverse camera not kicking on. I need to check the two solder joints but am also wondering if not grounding the camera caused it's own issue.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by Vexter182

That's the exact problem im talking about. When Im using the navigation with the P2000 i suddenly get a call which uses the OEM bluetooth and now I dont know where to turn lol.

I want to be able to use the OEM bluetooth phone calls while looking at the navigation on the P2000. I wonder if this can be fixed with a FW update.

The real bees knees would be interfacing with the OEM Mic system over MOST that is already connected to the P2000. Would eliminate the need for a separate MIC for the p2000 entirely.

[danbav]

Originally Posted by legomanx51v

Alright, I may have a solution to this problem.

I had similar issues where there would be a clicking or a popping noise coming from the speakers frequently. Sometimes the entire display would turn back to the OEM display. It makes it look like the unit is malfunctioning and turning off and on.

in my case the MOST fibre-optic connector was loose. It doesn’t look like it’s loose because it seats into the unit with a very solid click. However if you hold the connector and shake it up down or left or right while the unit is running you will see that the clicks are heard and the display cuts out.

I think this is because of the female part of the connector that is housed within the unit being slightly too big. My solution was to get string (actually I used floss!) to tie down the plug really tightly by looping it a few times and tying knots each time. I then wedged something into the front of the unit where the text “Mr 12 Volt“ can be seen and hold the tied string sideways until it was really tight and not allowing the connector to move. So far there have been no clicks or popping noises and the screen has not disconnected.

In terms of design/hardware/quality, I think they should’ve used a better quality female socket for the MOST connector.
I also think the unit gets quite hot, I cut out a square section of plastic directly above where there is a heatsink to allow better heat dissipation. I was considering adding a small fan but decided not to do it, for now.

I actually have two of these units, one in the M3 and one in an Audi.
There is a lot of interference noise from the microphone in the M3 while the Audi is perfect.
There is a lot of video screen flicker and interference in the Audi while in the MMI (original OEM interface) and there isn’t in the M3!

Cheers for the advice,

I have 1 spare DSP box and one of the older lights version.

I have just compared the most plug fitting and it’s definitely not as secure in the new DSP version. Really good shout on this and hopefully this will resolve my issue. Makes complete sense.

I will strip it again and secure the most plug to the unit and I will report back when done and tested…

[JOJO82]

Originally Posted by drwankel

No- because even you could connect it, the CCC system needs to know to output in a higher resolution or know to upscale its image. No function like that exists.

Then on the mr12volt side- the CCC unit and CIC units are different connection wise- you cant make the CCC unit output in high res mode- its not configurable.

CIC unit gets power/coms from canbus from the idrive controller connection- CCC unit is a quadlock connection.

If you want the high res screen with mr12volt, a CIC retrofit is your only option. Not sure why you wouldn't want this. The CCC system is shit.

Just on this, after quite a bit of research I have successfully managed to find a higher resolution screen which is totally plug and play with the CCC unit. Have to say resolution is so much better to look at and android auto looks fantastic compared to what it did with the original low res screen.

Low cost solution and didn't have to go CIC retrofit.

[kd7iwp]

Originally Posted by JOJO82

Just on this, after quite a bit of research I have successfully managed to find a higher resolution screen which is totally plug and play with the CCC unit.

Do you have a link?

[JOJO82]

Originally Posted by kd7iwp

Do you have a link?

DM me if you like as I can supply it for you if keen. I can give you all the details etc.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by JOJO82

DM me if you like as I can supply it for you if keen. I can give you all the details etc.

Post the link as others may be interested.

[georgebmwM3]

Originally Posted by JOJO82

Just on this, after quite a bit of research I have successfully managed to find a higher resolution screen which is totally plug and play with the CCC unit. Have to say resolution is so much better to look at and android auto looks fantastic compared to what it did with the original low res screen.

Low cost solution and didn't have to go CIC retrofit.

Yes, please post link.

[JOJO82]

There is no link guys, I found this wholesaler and they don't sell to individuals.

They only sell to businesses, so if interested let me know and I can show you the details.

Alternatively if I'm allowed I can post a link here to the eBay ad when I put it up?

[Raphc]

Originally Posted by Raphc

I'm starting to get really annoyed with my unit.
It keeps waking up and connecting to my phone when I'm at home. Really annoying as it often hijacks me mid-call.

I thought this was because i leave my car unlocked but have been mindfull to lock my car all the time and it still wakes up and connects.

Anyone else seeing this behaviour? Is there anyway to code the car to stop it waking up when locked?

Replying to my own comment in case others search this issue where Android Auto keeps connecting to the phone when at home even when the car is locked.

After a few weeks of testing, I finally found th eissue! I have an old iPod plugged into the armrest USB port. It seems that it keeps waking up the car and therefore the MR12Volt unit. Unpluggung the iPod and keeping ht car locked has almost entirely eliminted this problem!

Next and final issue I have is the really poor call quality with tons of echo for the other party.( Already tried the echo cancellation function many times)
I have reverted to using the OEM bluetooth for calls. Great sound quality but pretty annoying if you need nav at the same time.

Just wondering if anyone else tried the MIC suggested below? Has it worked? Is echo reduced?

Originally Posted by tennisman94

I received a DSP unit as a replacement for my defective "lights" unit and just installed it. I put it under the passenger kick panel but I get lag and audio drops if I put my phone under the center arm rest - annoying but not a deal-breaker. Could be my phone, Pixel 6 is known for having bad radios. I also noticed a 2-3 second delay with music apps, starting a new song or hitting pause/play. Not sure if this is an issue with my phone, AA or the box, nothing else is affected by this delay. EDIT: disabled "media" in bluetooth settings and both issues went away, did see some video glitches with the backup camera and when returning to drive or park, unsure about the cause, will continue to monitor.

I used this microphone instead of the supplied one. I installed it in the mic blank spot (by the stock mic) and just taped it in, didn't try to mount it to the plate and I haven't heard any complaints from people on the other side of calls. The cord is too long though, would recommend going with something a few feet shorter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FQNBKDK/

[procitysam]

I've had this MMI unit from Bavarian Automotive installed in my car for about 2 months now and really enjoy it so far. Only complaints I have about it so far is the framerate while running AA and that it doesn't fully utilize the CIC controls to navigate around AA. For instance in my Mazda 3, the Media and Navigation buttons go to the running music app and GPS app respectively but this MMI unit doesn't do that.

So my question is if the Mr12V unit provides the same/similar experience but with using the fiber system for audio rather than the AUX input.

[netcsk]

Earlier in the thread it was thought that the SD card MCU update could be done with an SD card extention cable and long holding the I-drive controller to force a reboot at the same times that the directions say to remove and reapply power (waited a minute when the directions said to). The CCC unit is crammed in very tightly and would essentially require removal to update otherwise.

I can confirm that it works. Just updated my CCC unit (original release) doing it this way first try in hopes that some of the oddities in connecting and infrequent crashing would be fixed.

The cable I used allows both SD and micro SD (I used a spare full sized SD) and has a sticky back that I used to attach to the back of the hvac controls.
Amazon Link: https://a.co/d/as0I6Uy

Excuse the messiness..

[dylim]

Originally Posted by netcsk

Earlier in the thread it was thought that the SD card MCU update could be done with an SD card extention cable and long holding the I-drive controller to force a reboot at the same times that the directions say to remove and reapply power (waited a minute when the directions said to). The CCC unit is crammed in very tightly and would essentially require removal to update otherwise.

I can confirm that it works. Just updated my CCC unit (original release) doing it this way first try in hopes that some of the oddities in connecting and infrequent crashing would be fixed.

The cable I used allows both SD and micro SD (I used a spare full sized SD) and has a sticky back that I used to attach to the back of the hvac controls.
Amazon Link: https://a.co/d/as0I6Uy

Excuse the messiness..

Thanks! What about the fiber optic cable (unplugging in the very beginning and plugging it back in at the end)? I guess it works similarly for the CIC P2000 DSP unit?

[Tony B]

I have finally got around to installing my P2000 DSP box.

Everything is connected up (even the Fibre Optic link - in spite of the very confusing instructions in the box).

Everything CIC side still works - I can play music from the hard-drive, access BMW navigation etc, so at least I have not bricked anything, yet...

However, there is no CD player option to select in the i-Drive menu.

I can see (just) the "power" light in the P2000 box, so it does not appear to be obviously faulty.

Does this mean that I have to code in a CD device by some means, even though this should not be required, according to the Mr12Volt literature?

TIA

[tdott]

Originally Posted by Tony B

Does this mean that I have to code in a CD device by some means, even though this should not be required, according to the Mr12Volt literature?

You'll need to have the CD Player option turned on via coding, the Original Post has instructions on how to do this with Bimmercode, but it could be done with other software also, you can find a local coder or remote coder to do it for you if you don't want to do it yourself.

The website did mention this:
*** A CD changer (CDC) must have been installed, or the CDC feature has been enabled in order to use this product.

[nah dude]

I just got one of these boxes and installed it yesterday, a lot of the info in this thread came in handy and the integration is great so far. Coded CD changer and it all worked right away. A couple of things I ran into and wondering if anyone has any ideas.

When voice navigation plays, after it finishes what it's saying there are popping and clicking sounds heard. Sometimes they're kinda loud, sounds like a dusty record player. If I'm listening to music it also does this after songs finish playing.

Another thing is it will randomly switch from sounding perfect, full OEM quality audio to a very flat, tinny sound with no bass. Seems to happen more when GPS app is running and voiceover happens, almost like the switch between voice navi and music causes it.

I am guessing this has something to do with the MOST connection, not sure.

Car is a 6 speed and has factory PDC and no backup cam. Not able to figure out how to get PDC to display on this box. Changed settings on the device but it still does not pop up when I put the car in reverse.

[Tony B]

Originally Posted by tdott

You'll need to have the CD Player option turned on via coding, the Original Post has instructions on how to do this with Bimmercode, but it could be done with other software also, you can find a local coder or remote coder to do it for you if you don't want to do it yourself.

The website did mention this:
*** A CD changer (CDC) must have been installed, or the CDC feature has been enabled in order to use this product.

Yes - I saw that comment, but I am certain that I have also seen that coding is not necessary with this version, as the firmware takes care of this?

Edit:
Just checked: At the beginning of the YouTube installation video it does explicitly say that E series cars do not require coding of the CDC option. Maybe their statement is a little ambiguous, and I am misinterpreting it.

Whatever - I am hoping a near neighbour, who is a BMW nut, will have the necessary coding expertise.