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      09-10-2019, 01:37 PM   #45
BeaterM3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwpower603 View Post
Do you want your car to catch on fire?
Talk about hysteria and paranoia. Just check the cables at the connection and call it a day. If any look funny, get them replaced. It's not the end of the world.
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      09-11-2019, 06:54 AM   #46
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I’m so nervous now.. last time I took my car in for the blower motor I think or air bag can’t remember. A day after I got crazy dash lights coming on saying limp mode etc... took to my shop and the positive battery terminal wasn’t secured so it was not fully hooked up when I hit bumps etc... 476 bucks later in diagnosis to find a unsecure battery terminal. Had to be the Bmw dealership doing the recall but even my Indy shop wasn’t sure they had to disconnect the battery for the recall.. anyone know.. now I have to take in in about 4 hours to get this cable done. I’m almost thinking to pull the plug and not do it yet
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      09-11-2019, 06:36 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chromey View Post
I’m so nervous now.. last time I took my car in for the blower motor I think or air bag can’t remember. A day after I got crazy dash lights coming on saying limp mode etc... took to my shop and the positive battery terminal wasn’t secured so it was not fully hooked up when I hit bumps etc... 476 bucks later in diagnosis to find a unsecure battery terminal. Had to be the Bmw dealership doing the recall but even my Indy shop wasn’t sure they had to disconnect the battery for the recall.. anyone know.. now I have to take in in about 4 hours to get this cable done. I’m almost thinking to pull the plug and not do it yet
I would suggest getting it done otherwise when the car gets no power. When the power gets disconnected, you can not open the trunk on the later models. The keyhole for emergency power loss is not connected so does not work. If you have fold down seats you can try and go through the ski pass through to pull the release but it is far. I had to do that a couple of times just to get to the battery. Of course turns out it was not the battery.

For anyone ever in the situation, you can tap on the fuse box area under the glovebox and the connection will temporarily work again.
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      09-11-2019, 06:55 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revengeismine View Post
Talk about hysteria and paranoia. Just check the cables at the connection and call it a day. If any look funny, get them replaced. It's not the end of the world.
You can lose all power while driving. Not a fun thing. There’s a reason it became a full safety recall.
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      09-11-2019, 07:02 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by msan View Post
You can lose all power while driving. Not a fun thing. There’s a reason it became a full safety recall.
Agree, that happened to me a couple of times. Like I was just going straight and not turning, just slowed and pulled over. Scary feeling when it happens.
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      09-12-2019, 10:11 AM   #50
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Going in for this tomorrow. I've got a V1 detector hardwired into the fuse box. Think I should remove the glove box/fuse box hardwire before I drop it off? I don't really want to mess with it, but maybe 1 less thing for the dealer to jack up while they're in there?

UPDATE: Yeah I'm going to pull the V1 hardwire out of the glove/fuse box area. 1 less for thing for them to screw up.

Last edited by delirium330; 09-12-2019 at 12:10 PM..
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      09-12-2019, 01:00 PM   #51
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Just a update I had it done. I was told they removed the whole cable and replaced. I have a question .... can someone clarify if the plastic moulding under the glove compartment they goes along the carpet line has a gap between the carpet and the moulding piece. I have never checked but did after Th recall was done and i can slide fingers underneath between the plastic and the carpet side. I’m explaining this terribly. On the drivers side there is no gap and it’s flush... it’s the piece where your left leg passenger side would rest against...?
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      09-12-2019, 01:10 PM   #52
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It not a m3 in the picture but it is the part I was alluding to. In the pic I have a gap you can fit fingers up under the area I pointed to in the pic..
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      11-20-2019, 12:07 PM   #53
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In for the third day for this cable recall. First day they replaced the battery per my request but somehow managed NOT to get to the recall item and wanted to keep the car overnight. This after I dropped off at 0730. Had to get car back for a trip.

Dropped again yesterday morning. As of 4 yesterday still not done, told me to keep the loaner overnight. Still not done as of noon today. Genius!
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      11-20-2019, 01:02 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgeair View Post
In for the third day for this cable recall. First day they replaced the battery per my request but somehow managed NOT to get to the recall item and wanted to keep the car overnight. This after I dropped off at 0730. Had to get car back for a trip.

Dropped again yesterday morning. As of 4 yesterday still not done, told me to keep the loaner overnight. Still not done as of noon today. Genius!
Never say no to an M3 loaner. If possible, extend another couple of days...

So irritating when dealers don't plan their work to be executed on time. Everybody else have to ey.
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      11-20-2019, 07:42 PM   #55
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The way they may be damaging the alternator is if they are following some bmw test procedure included in the recall instructions that tries to evaluate cable electrical integrity from alternator to battery B+ by connecting that cable to some test load equipment that temporarily overloads the alternator with engine running. A corroded cable will show increased ohmic drop at high current load. The test could overstress the alternator if some tech is not meticulously following test max load/duration specifications.
It might not be exactly on those lines but somebody is breaking these alternators.
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      11-20-2019, 08:52 PM   #56
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I believe something is def up. After I got my recall done maybe a week later I was having electrical issues, now I'm changing an alternator. It all started when my date and time started resetting then getting random ABS lights, DSC lights, wipers going off by themselves and car shutting off in the middle of driving.
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      11-20-2019, 09:16 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhanksevo View Post
I believe something is def up. After I got my recall done maybe a week later I was having electrical issues, now I'm changing an alternator. It all started when my date and time started resetting then getting random ABS lights, DSC lights, wipers going off by themselves and car shutting off in the middle of driving.
Dammit just when I get scared into wanting to DO the recall, I'm immediately scared off again by shitty BMW dealership workmanship from horror stories like you. wtf do I do
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      11-21-2019, 11:57 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfdeacon88 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhanksevo View Post
I believe something is def up. After I got my recall done maybe a week later I was having electrical issues, now I'm changing an alternator. It all started when my date and time started resetting then getting random ABS lights, DSC lights, wipers going off by themselves and car shutting off in the middle of driving.
Dammit just when I get scared into wanting to DO the recall, I'm immediately scared off again by shitty BMW dealership workmanship from horror stories like you. wtf do I do
me too?

Do we know it's shitty dealership work? Or just following had directions by BMW? Or maybe the fix just exposes a weak link we didn't know we had.

I wonder if I could get the dealer to warranty their work in regards to the alternator when don't the recall, even if it's just 90 days.
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      11-21-2019, 12:28 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajmun340 View Post
The way they may be damaging the alternator is if they are following some bmw test procedure included in the recall instructions that tries to evaluate cable electrical integrity from alternator to battery B+ by connecting that cable to some test load equipment that temporarily overloads the alternator with engine running. A corroded cable will show increased ohmic drop at high current load. The test could overstress the alternator if some tech is not meticulously following test max load/duration specifications.
It might not be exactly on those lines but somebody is breaking these alternators.
What...? There is no such test. ISTA tests the alternator by applying varying loads and can check the IBS system as well. If you're applying a load on the alternator and it's causing a voltage spike outside of normal parameters, the voltage regulator needs to be replaced. Or just replace the whole thing.

Seriously some of you are freaking out over nothing. It's simply cutting the cable, splicing/crimping, heatshrink, and plug it back into the fuse box. You don't remove any fuses, relays, just unplug a few connections to make room. If you don't want the dealership to do it, then DIY like I did. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1357407

The failure point is at the connection of the fuse box and the B+ cable. This affecting the alternator is coincidence. Mine started to go at 160K miles when I got random electrical problems. Tested the alternator and it was pumping out 15.7-16V intermittently. So obviously, being an original alternator, it was time to replace it.

My first oh FCUK moment was at night on CT15 North near I91 when the car suddenly flickered and lost power for a split second. Good thing it was late and I was the only one on the road.
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      11-21-2019, 02:26 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingZeroX5 View Post
. ISTA tests the alternator by applying varying loads
That's what i meant. Too many alternators have failed just after getting the recall work to denigrate the correlation. Plus the fact that they are applying taylored fixes indicate that they could be doing different level of test, possibly using ISTA based on various factors.
ISTA can stress the alternator regulator by putting a higher load than the battery does to test the B+ cable going to the alternator. Recalls often involve different measures taken depending on test results performed on the car. Maybe your car did not require that test.
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      11-21-2019, 03:55 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajmun340 View Post
That's what i meant. Too many alternators have failed just after getting the recall work to denigrate the correlation. Plus the fact that they are applying taylored fixes indicate that they could be doing different level of test, possibly using ISTA based on various factors.
ISTA can stress the alternator regulator by putting a higher load than the battery does to test the B+ cable going to the alternator. Recalls often involve different measures taken depending on test results performed on the car. Maybe your car did not require that test.
I'm going to clarify a bit. When I plugged in ISTA, it was to read out codes and calculate a test plan at the end. I don't remember ever having to go into ECU selection and select the DME so that the program can determine whether the alternator was functioning properly or not. What I do remember doing is taking a multimeter and reading out the voltages and the car held certain RPM's. Measures at the end always end with replace alternator if such and such conditions failed.

You stress an alternator by turning all the electronics, like headlights and media. Then you see if the voltages maintain within range. ISTA will tell you, depending on what diagnostics is being run, to either turn on or off electronics, and take readings.

This isn't a Cyberdyne Systems Model 101 T-800 series machine where it can route additional power to certain places. If you do that, it'll toast the electronics. So no, ISTA does not stress the alternator. Besides, there's voltage regulator behind it for a reason and believe it or not, this does fail...it's not uncommon.

I don't even know how to respond to the battery comment.
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      11-23-2019, 03:03 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingZeroX5 View Post
I'm going to clarify a bit. When I plugged in ISTA, it was to read out codes and calculate a test plan at the end. I don't remember ever having to go into ECU selection and select the DME so that the program can determine whether the alternator was functioning properly or not. What I do remember doing is taking a multimeter and reading out the voltages and the car held certain RPM's. Measures at the end always end with replace alternator if such and such conditions failed.

You stress an alternator by turning all the electronics, like headlights and media. Then you see if the voltages maintain within range. ISTA will tell you, depending on what diagnostics is being run, to either turn on or off electronics, and take readings.

This isn't a Cyberdyne Systems Model 101 T-800 series machine where it can route additional power to certain places. If you do that, it'll toast the electronics. So no, ISTA does not stress the alternator. Besides, there's voltage regulator behind it for a reason and believe it or not, this does fail...it's not uncommon.

I don't even know how to respond to the battery comment.
Knowing the tools is less important than understanding the fundamentals. You said your alternator was "pumping out 15.7-16V intermittently" and you decided to replace the alternator. In that situation the regulator had probably gone bad, not the alternator. The regulator sets how much AC peak voltage the alternator produces by adjusting field currents in the rotor windings. Usually when the alternator fails it produces lower voltages (< 14.3V DC). If you saw over-voltages, the regulator alone should have been replaced first at cost of ~$100.

Second, the total load on the alternator is the voltage difference between the rectified AC voltage and the battery terminals voltage divided by the B+ cable resistance, the battery internal resistance and the alternator windings resistance (load from charging the battery) plus the load from all the electrical equipment.

One way to stress the alternator is to create excessive currents in the windings by disconnecting the battery while the engine is running. All the electrical equipment in the car have supply bypassing caps but these together cannot sufficiently stabilize the voltage ripples left by the alternator rectifier bridge without the battery connected. As a result, the alternator windings will see higher fluctuating currents and overheat which could lead to premature failure. The closed loop control of the regulator is not meant to operate without battery.

I don't quite see why they would do this in the process of splicing the B+ cable unless blindly following steps from a diagnosing and repair tool like ISTA trying to evaluate ohmic resistance of the corroded cable for the recall. Since there are multiple complains from failed alternator after doing the recall, their work is questionable.

Last edited by Rajmun340; 11-23-2019 at 03:10 PM..
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