DIY: S65 M3 Rod Bearing

[da jemster]

SCARED THE CRAP OUTTA ME! I take out the longer oil pick up tube and start cleaning it. I get to the screen and this is what I see. I immediately check oil pan and don't see any other piece(s) I spend a couple of hours inspecting the whole bottom end. I rotated the engine once over VERY, VERY SLOWLY to inspect every rod. I go back to the oil pump and finally found what it was. When I stripped my oil pan bolt and used the Time-Sert, that was the left over piece. I am very lucky this piece didn't get sucked up in the front pick up tube!

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by da jemster

SCARED THE CRAP OUTTA ME! I take out the longer oil pick up tube and start cleaning it. I get to the screen and this is what I see. I immediately check oil pan and don't see any other piece(s) I spend a couple of hours inspecting the whole bottom end. I rotated the engine once over VERY, VERY SLOWLY to inspect every rod. I go back to the oil pump and finally found what it was. When I stripped my oil pan bolt and used the Time-Sert, that was the left over piece. I am very lucky this piece didn't get sucked up in the front pick up tube!

Wow, you probably saw your life go through your eyes

[jvictormp]

So what now? Is it good to go??

[da jemster]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Wow, you probably saw your life go through your eyes

Exhausted every cuss word known to man. I was expecting to see marring at some places!

[da jemster]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

So what now? Is it good to go??

Yes, I repaired the drain hole back in 2017 with Time-Sert and have no issues.

[frankc]

Hello,
I just finished replacing the rod bearings, and now on the re-assembly phase of this project (will post obligatory bearing photos to other thread later).

Can someone tell me where I can find the torque specs for the
- Oil pickup mounting bracket to engine (4xT30)
- Oil pickup tubes to bracket, engine and pump (T30 & M6 bolts)

I looked at TIS for oil pump and rod bearings, but didn't see it. One reference (video) I found stated 10NM, but I would like to find this documented someplace. Yes, I will be using blue Loctite on these fasteners in case you are wondering.

Thanks

[SYT_Shadow]

10Nm is correct.

[frankc]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

10Nm is correct.

Great - thanks for confirming.

[da jemster]

How come the packaging on the ARP bolts say to torque to 60ft lbs? Your instructions says 50? Even ECS's instructions are the same with yours at 50.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by da jemster

How come the packaging on the ARP bolts say to torque to 60ft lbs? Your instructions says 50? Even ECS's instructions are the same with yours at 50.

The BE-ARP bolts come with a paper that say 50ftlb if I remember correctly.

If yours say 60ftlb I don't think you have the BE-ARP ones

[da jemster]

Danny, I bought it off ECS

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by da jemster

Danny, I bought it off ECS

As I suspected! Those are regular ARP bolts. Torque them to what they ask for.

The 50ftlb is specific to the BE-ARP bolt. Both types are different materials so different torque specs

[da jemster]

Thx Danny!

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

As I suspected! Those are regular ARP bolts. Torque them to what they ask for.

The 50ftlb is specific to the BE-ARP bolt. Both types are different materials so different torque specs

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by da jemster

Danny, I bought it off ECS

625 aged bolts, 60ftlb.

[pbonsalb]

I don’t think I would torque to 60 lbs unless someone has measured the clearance at that torque with those bolts. Why would 625 require 20% more torque than 2000 to give the same clearance?

Maybe the data is in the wiki somewhere. It has been a while since I read it.

EDIT: found info that 625 requires more torque to stretch to maintain clamp load, but that the extra torque could cause issues.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=946329

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I don’t think I would torque to 60 lbs unless someone has measured the clearance at that torque with those bolts. Why would 625 require 20% more torque than 2000 to give the same clearance?

Maybe the data is in the wiki somewhere. It has been a while since I read it.

EDIT: found info that 625 requires more torque to stretch to maintain clamp load, but that the extra torque could cause issues.

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=946329

Exactly. The 625 arp is the traditional arp bolt. In the E46 and E9X it has been showing to distort the bore.
The 625 is a stronger material so it requires more torque to stretch and be happy, but that extra torque distorts the hole.
The 2000 is a weaker material which stretches correctly with only 50 ftlb and does not distort.

Anyway i think people will survive with the 625 arp, it's just not ideal

[da jemster]

Thx Helms and Phillip.

Danny, just like your E46 DIY, thank you for this!!!

Blackstone was on point with their report. here are my RBs. Most of the wear are on the edges on the caps for 7&3 and 8&4. Also, below was my T30 setup. Luckily, I had these pieces and didn't need to hunt down a 6" piece.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by da jemster

Thx Helms and Phillip.

Danny, just like your E46 DIY, thank you for this!!!

Blackstone was on point with their report. here are my RBs. Most of the wear are on the edges on the caps for 7&3 and 8&4. Also, below was my T30 setup. Luckily, I had these pieces and didn't need to hunt down a 6" piece.

Good thing you swapped them! Glad the DIY worked out for you!

[ha9981]

What's the risk of the engine support bar failing? I am assuming load is still supported by transmission mounts. Any other mounts?

Is there a spot to have a piston jack on the the bottom of the engine for extra safety and support without interfering with the RB job?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by ha9981

What's the risk of the engine support bar failing? I am assuming load is still supported by transmission mounts. Any other mounts?

Is there a spot to have a piston jack on the the bottom of the engine for extra safety and support without interfering with the RB job?

The engine is still supported by the tranny. I don't think it'll 'drop', the engine brace is more about not overloading other mounts than safety

[da jemster]

Originally Posted by ha9981

What's the risk of the engine support bar failing? I am assuming load is still supported by transmission mounts. Any other mounts?

Is there a spot to have a piston jack on the the bottom of the engine for extra safety and support without interfering with the RB job?

Let's say, you are frugal and go with Harbor Freight's bar, it's rated for 1000 lbs https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-l...bar-96524.html. The S65 is 445lbs. If you really wanna use a piston jack, you could probably position it right under the bell housing.

[pbonsalb]

The engine support bar is critical. The motor mounts are the primary support and are attached to the subframe you are lowering so they won’t be helping any more. The transmission mounts and brace do very little in terms of supporting the engine.

If you use the engine support bar properly, you do not need an additional support jack under the car and there really isn’t room for one while you are doing this work. I use a HF support bar that I bought for maybe $60 years ago. They go on sale periodically and there is a 20% off Coupon usually available that you can search for. It is very rugged and I have used it many times without worry on a number of cars.

If it failed, the engine would drop in the front, smash into the radiator and fan, tear sheet metal and the bumper, force the tail end of the trans up into the tunnel and probably break the driveshaft and shifter, and probably do serious harm to you if you were underneath.