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      11-22-2016, 01:31 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manda Marza View Post
I also got an email back regarding the status of my big brake kit! Instead of sending a generic 'still being made it will ship next week' type message they responded back with pics of my specific set being made that day, which I thought made for some pretty good customer service.





Here is a rendered image of my brake caliper design. Note that that is not the color I'm getting. I decided on a anodized bronze / copper color, kind of similar to the GTR's brakes but a bit more muted.



I really hope these are not going to be crazy hard to install.

Also,
I am wondering if I have to flush all of the brake fluid. I literally JUST had my brake fluid changed by BMW. Could I instead just top off more brake fluid or do I have to drain the entire system and replace? Ideally I would like to replace it by that really expensive Castrol brake fluid someone recommended me, but I have heard entirely draining a system is a lot of work..
The hardest part about installing a bbk is changing out the mid lines. Though it's a pain in the ass I highly recommend it. Also regarding brake fluid you can get away with topping the system off and bleeding if you are careful about fluid loss when installing but I recommend changing to some Motul RBF600 (what I used). It's easier to change the fluid while you are bleeding the brakes anyways and if you want to track or get the most out of your new setup the OEM fluid won't cut it.
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      11-22-2016, 11:21 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Rat3d ///M View Post
The hardest part about installing a bbk is changing out the mid lines. Though it's a pain in the ass I highly recommend it. Also regarding brake fluid you can get away with topping the system off and bleeding if you are careful about fluid loss when installing but I recommend changing to some Motul RBF600 (what I used). It's easier to change the fluid while you are bleeding the brakes anyways and if you want to track or get the most out of your new setup the OEM fluid won't cut it.
You would think they would have a capable 'M performance' brake fluid for our cars.. Thank you for the advice, I anticipate it will take all day but it's going to be a whole bunch of us installing so it should go easier.
The oil I was looking at is Castrol SRF at around $70 a bottle. I figure 2 bottles will be enough?
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      11-22-2016, 12:00 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Manda Marza View Post
You would think they would have a capable 'M performance' brake fluid for our cars.. Thank you for the advice, I anticipate it will take all day but it's going to be a whole bunch of us installing so it should go easier.
The oil I was looking at is Castrol SRF at around $70 a bottle. I figure 2 bottles will be enough?
When I did mine I bought 3 bottles (0.5L each) and I only ended up using 1.5 bottles IIRC. I know everywhere I read it said to buy at least 1.5L, but I tried and tried and couldn't get anymore old fluid out after bleeding a little more than a full bottle through. I may have actually only used one complete bottle, I don't recall exactly. I suspect I didn't end up getting all the old fluid out, but no matter how long I bled I was getting clear fluid, so I figured it was good enough. Don't take my scenario as "I only need 1 or 2 bottles" though. I still recommend getting at least 1.5L in case you need it. If not, just keep whatever is left for next year and bleed again (as long as it's not opened, it will last a couple years on the shelf).

Regarding the fluid you chose, I too was looking into the Castrol SRF as I was told it was the best, but at $70 a bottle I felt it was overkill and I opted for the Motul instead at around $16 a bottle. Unless you are doing multiple track days a year and running back to back laps, I feel like you would just be wasting money going with the Castrol. It's a solid brake fluid, but I think you would be fine with the Motul or another cheaper alternative instead for a lot less money. I don't know what you use your car for, and my opinion may differ from others, but if you track a lot as described above, definitely go for the Castrol. If you just daily drive or even do the occasional track day for fun, the Motul or even Endless fluid would be fine for you and save you a ton of cash.

On a side note: The reason I opted for the RBF600 vs the RBF660 despite them being nearly the same price, is that the RBF600 has a wet boiling point of 420 while the 660 has a wet boiling point of 399 degrees, despite the 660 having a higher dry boiling point. For the driving I do, I figured I would NEVER approach the dry limits of the 600, so it was a better trade off to go for the one with the higher wet boiling point, as the wet boiling point is far more important to consider.
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Last edited by Rat3d ///M; 11-22-2016 at 12:09 PM..
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      11-22-2016, 12:20 PM   #48
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very good choice on the wheels,
and yes waiting for the ps4 is very good idea.
might want to lower the car with kw soon
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      11-22-2016, 08:05 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manda Marza View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat3d ///M View Post
Nice to see you are still enjoying the M3. That detailing supply shelf is absurd.

Great idea on the Ceramic Pro as well. Just got my wheels powdercoated so I may pick some up and apply this winter (brakes as well).

I started following you on IG. Follow me back if you don't mind (Rat3d_M)

BTW, Cermaic Pro is a professional only coating so you'll have to go get it applied by someone who's certified. To save money, I would imagine it would be pretty cheap if you removed the wheels yourself (if you have another big car), and delivered them to a CP installer after you've already COMPLETELY cleaned / clayed the wheels. Bc all they would have to do is apply and that takes such small amount of time. You would pay for an hour of labor plus product.

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Do you like AMMO products compared to others?


I LOVE Ammo products, really I do. Hydrate and Skin are two of the best products I've used. I have actually never seen Skin wear off (longest test was on our black truck) even after 5 months (I did upkeep it with Hydrate on that truck). There were no signs of it wearing off and I would not be surprised if it lasted well over the 6 months of advertised time if kept up with Hydrate.
But I also expect nothing less from Ammo since it does cost $70 for Skin. DO I think it's worth it for the price? I do.. I like the warm finish it leaves (it kind of mutes metallic flake I think - but that's very subjective). One negative is that it is SO hard to clean it all out of your foam applicator.
Is it best bang for your buck? No its not but if you dont mind spending the extra money its a good buy.
Also, the leather conditioner is not the best performer (that would have to go to Griots Garage Leather Care) but it is BY FAR the best and most accurate leather scent. I often apply it just to keep my interior smelling like soft natural leather.

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Welcome back.
Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Beemdog View Post
+1. Also nice to see that the maturity level of this forum seems a lot better than last time. Proud of y'all for not falling into macho sexist comments...
Absolutely. Completely different this time around! But then again I'm also being a little more wise with the type of pics I post
Really though I can see myself really keeping up with this journal this time!
Awesome! Have you tried Reflex? As compared to opti?
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      11-22-2016, 09:35 PM   #50
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Are you really getting the WP BBK?? How did you get hooked up with them?

Back in 2008, I was their test vehicle. The kit came after waiting many weeks and I paid the shop to install it.. bracket didn't fit at all.
They were cool about it and refunded me everything including the shop fee, but it sucked to wait that long and not be able to have the kit installed after looking at it for a week until I had time to get it installed. I'm sure they learned from that episode!!

As for the brake fluid, ATE is fine for street use and even track use until you get faster.
The reason people love SRF is because the wet boiling point is so high. This allows people to run the brake fluid FAR longer than they would with other fluids. You also feel better about using the left over fluid after doing a bleed before a track event because of the high wet boiling point. Many people will say don't use left over brake fluid after the bottle has been open since it'll absorb moisture in the air.

.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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      11-22-2016, 10:22 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat3d ///M View Post
When I did mine I bought 3 bottles (0.5L each) and I only ended up using 1.5 bottles IIRC. I know everywhere I read it said to buy at least 1.5L, but I tried and tried and couldn't get anymore old fluid out after bleeding a little more than a full bottle through. I may have actually only used one complete bottle, I don't recall exactly. I suspect I didn't end up getting all the old fluid out, but no matter how long I bled I was getting clear fluid, so I figured it was good enough. Don't take my scenario as "I only need 1 or 2 bottles" though. I still recommend getting at least 1.5L in case you need it. If not, just keep whatever is left for next year and bleed again (as long as it's not opened, it will last a couple years on the shelf).

Regarding the fluid you chose, I too was looking into the Castrol SRF as I was told it was the best, but at $70 a bottle I felt it was overkill and I opted for the Motul instead at around $16 a bottle. Unless you are doing multiple track days a year and running back to back laps, I feel like you would just be wasting money going with the Castrol. It's a solid brake fluid, but I think you would be fine with the Motul or another cheaper alternative instead for a lot less money. I don't know what you use your car for, and my opinion may differ from others, but if you track a lot as described above, definitely go for the Castrol. If you just daily drive or even do the occasional track day for fun, the Motul or even Endless fluid would be fine for you and save you a ton of cash.

On a side note: The reason I opted for the RBF600 vs the RBF660 despite them being nearly the same price, is that the RBF600 has a wet boiling point of 420 while the 660 has a wet boiling point of 399 degrees, despite the 660 having a higher dry boiling point. For the driving I do, I figured I would NEVER approach the dry limits of the 600, so it was a better trade off to go for the one with the higher wet boiling point, as the wet boiling point is far more important to consider.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aus View Post
Are you really getting the WP BBK?? How did you get hooked up with them?

Back in 2008, I was their test vehicle. The kit came after waiting many weeks and I paid the shop to install it.. bracket didn't fit at all.
They were cool about it and refunded me everything including the shop fee, but it sucked to wait that long and not be able to have the kit installed after looking at it for a week until I had time to get it installed. I'm sure they learned from that episode!!

As for the brake fluid, ATE is fine for street use and even track use until you get faster.
The reason people love SRF is because the wet boiling point is so high. This allows people to run the brake fluid FAR longer than they would with other fluids. You also feel better about using the left over fluid after doing a bleed before a track event because of the high wet boiling point. Many people will say don't use left over brake fluid after the bottle has been open since it'll absorb moisture in the air.

.

Ah you guys have me going back and forth still! I am not that intense and am still getting some lessons (will be doing a lot more starting mid December) and do not anticipate being that crazy on the track, which makes me think Motul will be fine, but at the same time reading what you just said (thank you for that info btw!) I do not want to keep changing my brake fluid all the time. I just googled SRF wet boiling point and its all the way to 520F! How often would I have to change the Motul 600 vs the Castrol? Is the jump from 420F to 520F just overkill? I would pay extra to avoid doing more labor.

Haha that's funny to hear you were WP Pro's test vehicle! Sorry to hear about the bracket, I hope I don't run into that same issue but at the same time that is pretty great customer service. Thank you for helping them ironing out the bracket issue for me to have a flawless install
I too have waited weeks but I was kept updated of the build process (since they're actually the ones who manufacture their own brakes) - which makes me think each set is built to order? I don't have any events or an organized track schedule so the wait didn't really affect me
I got connected with them after consulting with Vivid Racing, I was leaning towards Brembo bc that's pretty much all I knew but learned more about everyone's build processes and why certain items were expensive and others were cheaper. Owner of Vivid Racing also has WP Pro on his own cars and he has access to all the other brake companies through his site so I figured why not?!
Also, I was able to get the highest % off of WP Pro compared to Brembo, more finishes and frankly better customer service. Nothing bad about other brake companies out there by any means, but for my budget and preferences WP Pro was my choice.
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      11-22-2016, 10:34 PM   #52
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Awesome! Have you tried Reflex? As compared to opti?
I have not! But Reflex is pretty interesting. You don't need to do a crazy paint prep bc Reflex only lasts 6 months - 1 year, so swirls wont get locked in like they will with Opti Gloss Coat. Much more novice friendly for those who can't get perfect paint correction. I know I wasn't able to first time I did a paint correction back in summer 2015. I left a lot of swirls and ended up locking them in under Opti Coat 2.0
But if you are able to get full paint correction, then I do not see a reason for Reflex (besides possible synchronization with the amazing Ammo Skin) compared to more permanent coatings.
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      11-22-2016, 11:20 PM   #53
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Get the OEM Alcantara wheel with the blue stripe!! Black Friday may bring some deals. You touch it every time you drive it and you'll keep it in good shape. It's one of the best things I've done to my car.

As for the exhaust, if you go full catless/no resonator, it's going too make any exhaust WAY louder. I have an Akra EVO and it's deep but not loud compared to race exhausts. It's not super angry or aggressive sounding. I heard an Akra exhaust with the Akra GT4 straight pipe and it sounded angry, snarling and was much louder. It didn't sound like an Akra anymore. You may want to get some test pipes as an inexpensive way to gain power, a little volume and if the exhaust shop puts some flanges on, you can swap out the stock cats for smog tests. Again, Black Friday deals are here soon.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Simmeaux View Post
Hi Manda,

I love the look of your M3. Your car has been a real inspiration for the look i am trying to achieve on my AW E92 M3. You've inspired me to get a gloss black roof wrap, which i was debating whether i should do given i have a sunroof, but having seen how yours blended in i was sold and will get it done. Also i love your black mirrors, which im also keen to do soon. Next on my list is a gloss black rear M3 badge from IND (ordered) and most likely a carbon front lip and rear spoiler, oh and some new wheels. Im keen on Vorsteiner V-FF 101's in gloss black at the moment but not sure i can get them in 20" unfortunately. Otherwise my next choice are BBS CI-R's Id love a set of forged HRE 101's but they are just too expensive so trying to find similar designs.

Keep up the good work
Someone is selling a set of BBS FI's with tires right now.
Better to get the best used than some of the imitations that are out now, IMO.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."

Last edited by aus; 11-22-2016 at 11:25 PM..
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      11-23-2016, 10:12 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manda Marza View Post
Ah you guys have me going back and forth still! I am not that intense and am still getting some lessons (will be doing a lot more starting mid December) and do not anticipate being that crazy on the track, which makes me think Motul will be fine, but at the same time reading what you just said (thank you for that info btw!) I do not want to keep changing my brake fluid all the time. I just googled SRF wet boiling point and its all the way to 520F! How often would I have to change the Motul 600 vs the Castrol? Is the jump from 420F to 520F just overkill? I would pay extra to avoid doing more labor.

Haha that's funny to hear you were WP Pro's test vehicle! Sorry to hear about the bracket, I hope I don't run into that same issue but at the same time that is pretty great customer service. Thank you for helping them ironing out the bracket issue for me to have a flawless install
I too have waited weeks but I was kept updated of the build process (since they're actually the ones who manufacture their own brakes) - which makes me think each set is built to order? I don't have any events or an organized track schedule so the wait didn't really affect me
I got connected with them after consulting with Vivid Racing, I was leaning towards Brembo bc that's pretty much all I knew but learned more about everyone's build processes and why certain items were expensive and others were cheaper. Owner of Vivid Racing also has WP Pro on his own cars and he has access to all the other brake companies through his site so I figured why not?!
Also, I was able to get the highest % off of WP Pro compared to Brembo, more finishes and frankly better customer service. Nothing bad about other brake companies out there by any means, but for my budget and preferences WP Pro was my choice.
Let me know what you end up going with. I am sure whatever you choose will work fine for you.
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      11-23-2016, 10:25 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manda Marza View Post
Ah you guys have me going back and forth still! I am not that intense and am still getting some lessons (will be doing a lot more starting mid December) and do not anticipate being that crazy on the track, which makes me think Motul will be fine, but at the same time reading what you just said (thank you for that info btw!) I do not want to keep changing my brake fluid all the time. I just googled SRF wet boiling point and its all the way to 520F! How often would I have to change the Motul 600 vs the Castrol? Is the jump from 420F to 520F just overkill? I would pay extra to avoid doing more labor.
I just realized you just had your fluid changed out. I'd just get a bottle of cheap ATE to flush the calipers, and run that for two years, like BMW specifies. I'm too cheap to waste fresh brake fluid.

As for the SRF vs. Motul, it's always up to the owner. Technically, you're suppose to at least bleed (drain a little fluid from each caliper) the brakes before each event to ensure the fluid in the caliper isn't boiled and is relatively fresh. Once brake fluid has been boiled, it basically sucks and is pretty much useless for the track since the boiling point REALLY drops once it's been boiled. It'll work ok for normal street driving, so you may not notice it. Some fluids will advertised their "recovery boiling temp" after it's been boiled, but it's going to suck no matter what.
SRF would theoretically allow you to keep using it for a couple years before a full flush since it has such a high wet boiling point, particularly with an bleed once in a while before track events (or maybe even after a couple track events ).

There's a lot of discussion on SRF vs. other fluids on bimmer forums (one word) dot com "Track section" if you search SRF.
.
You may want to get some exhaust thermal wrap for the S pipes at the diff location. I still need to do this, but will probably just thermal coat the exhaust when I'm due for my first smog test.


If you're really interested in getting on the track, consider the BMWCCA.org: https://myaccount.bmwcca.org/PortalT...EmailCheck.cfm
They run a very safe event and are perfect for the novice/new track person because every car has an instructor and there are strict passing rules. The last event at Buttonwillow had a lot more women than normal, which was great because they don't get enough people and they keep losing money and are thinking about not doing anymore events.

One last bit of advice. Avoid the CF splitter if you're going to lower the car. It's going to get destroyed. There is a polyurethane one that'll hold up a lot better. I had a splitter in the past and was very careful, but it's going to get beat up if you're lowered.
.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."

Last edited by aus; 11-27-2016 at 12:12 AM..
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      11-27-2016, 12:28 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manda Marza View Post
I'm looking at some extended paddles right now, and pedals were that important? Mine do look really cheap. Even compared to my Tiguan...
I know it is pricey for the center console, but it makes the car feel a bit more exotic. I also wish I had some alcantara, like an alcantara steering wheel..



So back when I applied Opti Coat 2.0, I really didn't know what I was doing. I did not get all the swirls out, and I felt like 2.0 was not that scratch resistant. Also, 2.0 would not hold any topper at all (at least the new ones don't need it but its still an option). And I also completely removed the 2.0 with CG White Light which was VERY stupid (Black Light and White Light are the worst products ever, I can't believe I accidentally removed a great performer - besides scratch resistance - for White Light, still kick myself for doing that and blaming Opti Coat for sucking so bad).
Now with Cquatz, I was able to get full correction, Essence gave way better gloss than Opti Coat 2.0 did, and Cquartz (TiO2 version) does seem to be more scratch resistant than 2.0. It also appears to be holding toppers. I also STRONGLY oppose the idea that it is bad to top a coating. I put Adams Americana wax on a panel by itself, then topped a panel coated with Opti Gloss with the same wax, and got WAY better water sheeting performance from the panel that had a coating as a base hours after application on both panels. Whereas everyone always says you will only get the performance of the top layer which is worse than the coating. Not sure how it works but that was my confirmed observation.
Ah, I gotcha. Yeah, I usually sprayed the car down (I sold her last week ) with spray wax after a wash. From what I saw with the car before I sold her, the coating was still in full effect even after a year of daily driving. My assumption is the spray wax layer that gets worn before the opticoat.

Just my .02, but I'm glad you found a better solution!

Also, your mod bug bit hard lmfao.
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      11-27-2016, 03:14 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Amirsm3 View Post
Ah, I gotcha. Yeah, I usually sprayed the car down (I sold her last week ) with spray wax after a wash. From what I saw with the car before I sold her, the coating was still in full effect even after a year of daily driving. My assumption is the spray wax layer that gets worn before the opticoat.

Just my .02, but I'm glad you found a better solution!

Also, your mod bug bit hard lmfao.
Another BMW ?
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      11-27-2016, 03:49 PM   #58
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Another BMW ?
Yep, worried over Amir. Went off selling his M3 for a house. Living before an M3, what kind of priority is that..?
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      11-27-2016, 04:05 PM   #59
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Yep, worried over Amir. Went off selling his M3 for a house. Living before an M3, what kind of priority is that..?
I'm sorry Nik ,I don't know .. and I have no idea why he sold his car ...
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      11-27-2016, 07:01 PM   #60
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Brake fluid: If you're just putting front calipers in, you'll only need a little fluid to top off the system as you bleed the air out. If you're doing the brake lines and calipers all around at the same time, then you'll need a liter.

SRF: comes in liter bottles, not 500ml bottles so factor that into your expense calculations. Plus, it's just magic compared to other fluid when you track your car. There's a reason it's been used by oodles of Porsche racers/track guys (and BMW guys too). I was a doubter and then put it in my car (after only 20 years with the other stuff, including Motul, etc., etc.). I drove to COTA in June and instructed for three days in torrid temps (including some 30 minute sessions), drove home with brake pad swaps in between street and track driving. Then I commuted with it for a bit, then drove to Laguna and instructed there for 3 more days. I never bled the fluid once. Still have the SRF in the car untouched. With RBF600 I'd have bled the brakes 2 times minimum.

One nice thing with SRF is that if you ever do boil it, it recovers very quickly, something that just doesn't happen with RBF600. One less thing to worry about or have to deal with at the track.

Not to put too fine a point on it, but you've got how much in wheels and brake calipers/rotors so $70/liter brake fluid should be a non-issue. It's worth it for the low hassle factor alone.

Love the detailing work, though I'd wear eye protection as well as respiratory protection when working with the ceramic coatings. You'll need those eyes to help all the animals you'll see during/after vet school.
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Last edited by admranger; 11-27-2016 at 07:08 PM..
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      11-27-2016, 08:13 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium View Post
Another BMW ?
Hahaha, unfortunately, no. I don't have any plans immediately. Going to invest in some real estate before I do anything else and see what happens when the dust settles. If things go my way, I'll be back in an E9x in no time.
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      11-27-2016, 08:15 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
Brake fluid: If you're just putting front calipers in, you'll only need a little fluid to top off the system as you bleed the air out. If you're doing the brake lines and calipers all around at the same time, then you'll need a liter.

SRF: comes in liter bottles, not 500ml bottles so factor that into your expense calculations. Plus, it's just magic compared to other fluid when you track your car. There's a reason it's been used by oodles of Porsche racers/track guys (and BMW guys too). I was a doubter and then put it in my car (after only 20 years with the other stuff, including Motul, etc., etc.). I drove to COTA in June and instructed for three days in torrid temps (including some 30 minute sessions), drove home with brake pad swaps in between street and track driving. Then I commuted with it for a bit, then drove to Laguna and instructed there for 3 more days. I never bled the fluid once. Still have the SRF in the car untouched. With RBF600 I'd have bled the brakes 2 times minimum.

One nice thing with SRF is that if you ever do boil it, it recovers very quickly, something that just doesn't happen with RBF600. One less thing to worry about or have to deal with at the track.

Not to put too fine a point on it, but you've got how much in wheels and brake calipers/rotors so $70/liter brake fluid should be a non-issue. It's worth it for the low hassle factor alone.

Love the detailing work, though I'd wear eye protection as well as respiratory protection when working with the ceramic coatings. You'll need those eyes to help all the animals you'll see during/after vet school.
Definitely have to emphasize the last part of this post. The smells are pretty..... epic. I can't imagine what long term exposure would do to your lungs lol.
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      11-27-2016, 08:24 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by aus View Post
I just realized you just had your fluid changed out. I'd just get a bottle of cheap ATE to flush the calipers, and run that for two years, like BMW specifies. I'm too cheap to waste fresh brake fluid.

As for the SRF vs. Motul, it's always up to the owner. Technically, you're suppose to at least bleed (drain a little fluid from each caliper) the brakes before each event to ensure the fluid in the caliper isn't boiled and is relatively fresh. Once brake fluid has been boiled, it basically sucks and is pretty much useless for the track since the boiling point REALLY drops once it's been boiled. It'll work ok for normal street driving, so you may not notice it. Some fluids will advertised their "recovery boiling temp" after it's been boiled, but it's going to suck no matter what.
SRF would theoretically allow you to keep using it for a couple years before a full flush since it has such a high wet boiling point, particularly with an bleed once in a while before track events (or maybe even after a couple track events ).

There's a lot of discussion on SRF vs. other fluids on bimmer forums (one word) dot com "Track section" if you search SRF.
.
You may want to get some exhaust thermal wrap for the S pipes at the diff location. I still need to do this, but will probably just thermal coat the exhaust when I'm due for my first smog test.

If you're really interested in getting on the track, consider the BMWCCA.org: https://myaccount.bmwcca.org/PortalT...EmailCheck.cfm
They run a very safe event and are perfect for the novice/new track person because every car has an instructor and there are strict passing rules. The last event at Buttonwillow had a lot more women than normal, which was great because they don't get enough people and they keep losing money and are thinking about not doing anymore events.

One last bit of advice. Avoid the CF splitter if you're going to lower the car. It's going to get destroyed. There is a polyurethane one that'll hold up a lot better. I had a splitter in the past and was very careful, but it's going to get beat up if you're lowered.
.
Thanks for the info on the fluids! And what would be the purpose of thermal wrap on the S pipes? Is it to protect the exhaust from the differential? I would imagine the exhaust gets hotter than the differential? I may be confused on this..

And that's what I'm leaning towards. I saw Mode Carbon had an 'Endurance' series that I'm pretty interested in!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Amirsm3 View Post
Ah, I gotcha. Yeah, I usually sprayed the car down (I sold her last week ) with spray wax after a wash. From what I saw with the car before I sold her, the coating was still in full effect even after a year of daily driving. My assumption is the spray wax layer that gets worn before the opticoat.

Just my .02, but I'm glad you found a better solution!

Also, your mod bug bit hard lmfao.
Haha it did! And you sold your car?? Any sports car in the garage anymore?

Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
Brake fluid: If you're just putting front calipers in, you'll only need a little fluid to top off the system as you bleed the air out. If you're doing the brake lines and calipers all around at the same time, then you'll need a liter.

SRF: comes in liter bottles, not 500ml bottles so factor that into your expense calculations. Plus, it's just magic compared to other fluid when you track your car. There's a reason it's been used by oodles of Porsche racers/track guys (and BMW guys too). I was a doubter and then put it in my car (after only 20 years with the other stuff, including Motul, etc., etc.). I drove to COTA in June and instructed for three days in torrid temps (including some 30 minute sessions), drove home with brake pad swaps in between street and track driving. Then I commuted with it for a bit, then drove to Laguna and instructed there for 3 more days. I never bled the fluid once. Still have the SRF in the car untouched. With RBF600 I'd have bled the brakes 2 times minimum.

One nice thing with SRF is that if you ever do boil it, it recovers very quickly, something that just doesn't happen with RBF600. One less thing to worry about or have to deal with at the track.

Not to put too fine a point on it, but you've got how much in wheels and brake calipers/rotors so $70/liter brake fluid should be a non-issue. It's worth it for the low hassle factor alone.

Love the detailing work, though I'd wear eye protection as well as respiratory protection when working with the ceramic coatings. You'll need those eyes to help all the animals you'll see during/after vet school.
It wasn't so much for the cost of brake fluid it was more the procedure of flushing the brake fluid. From what I heard completely flushing the brake fluid is pretty hard and wanted to avoid it. If I do flush all the lines then I have decided for sure to get the SRF fluid! I really like the idea of not having to bleed fluid, especially since I don't do the work myself and have to keep asking for favors..

Good point on the eye protection! I never thought about that, but I will do it if I use professional grade coatings again.
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      11-27-2016, 10:34 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manda Marza View Post
Thanks for the info on the fluids! And what would be the purpose of thermal wrap on the S pipes? Is it to protect the exhaust from the differential? I would imagine the exhaust gets hotter than the differential? I may be confused on this..

And that's what I'm leaning towards. I saw Mode Carbon had an 'Endurance' series that I'm pretty interested in!



Haha it did! And you sold your car?? Any sports car in the garage anymore?



It wasn't so much for the cost of brake fluid it was more the procedure of flushing the brake fluid. From what I heard completely flushing the brake fluid is pretty hard and wanted to avoid it. If I do flush all the lines then I have decided for sure to get the SRF fluid! I really like the idea of not having to bleed fluid, especially since I don't do the work myself and have to keep asking for favors..

Good point on the eye protection! I never thought about that, but I will do it if I use professional grade coatings again.
I have my eyes on an STI. I can sell my Toyota Avalon daily, finance the STI for 1.9% right now with no money down and "keep" the cash in my pocket until the real estate broker needs my share of the down payment for this property. All in all, I may have a car payment, but this deal puts me in a good investment while still having a fun car - don't get me wrong, it's not my E90, but it's smarter for the time being.
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      11-27-2016, 10:40 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manda Marza View Post
Thanks for the info on the fluids! And what would be the purpose of thermal wrap on the S pipes? Is it to protect the exhaust from the differential? I would imagine the exhaust gets hotter than the differential? I may be confused on this..

And that's what I'm leaning towards. I saw Mode Carbon had an 'Endurance' series that I'm pretty interested in!
The thermal wraps are to keep the diff cooler since the exhaust is hot and runs close to the diff. The stock exhaust has heat shields on each side welded on to the pipes.

I got this Challenge urethane lip after cracking a CF bumper. It was fixable, but what a pain. IND still sells it but the link in the info thread doesn't work anymore.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=951616


Black Friday deal on Ate for $11.48 a can. Not sure how much shipping is. http://www.bimmerworld.com/About-Us/...ake-Fluid.html
.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."

Last edited by aus; 11-28-2016 at 02:24 AM..
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      11-28-2016, 07:02 PM   #66
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Hahaha, unfortunately, no. I don't have any plans immediately. Going to invest in some real estate before I do anything else and see what happens when the dust settles. If things go my way, I'll be back in an E9x in no time.
I'm sure you will my friend ! And I wish you the best of luck
Let me know..
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