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      01-10-2014, 05:55 AM   #45
kawasaki00
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Never buy a non bosch sensor, the calibration curve will be different. They will be calibrated the same at stoich but as the sensor gets richer and leaner away from stoich it will not be the same reading. The DME has a calibration curve built in and all it knows is what the sensor tells it. If the sensor is off then the ecu changes the tune.

A good example is the Bosch vs NTK sensor, the NTK is a superior sensor due to its resolution to the bosch (Honda uses the NTK) but the calibration curve is totally different on the NTK so it cant be used.
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      02-17-2014, 11:03 AM   #46
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Hey guys, I was hoping that someone may be able to help provide some insight in what may be some possible problems I'm having with my M3. Car is at the dealer and I should get their report later this week.

On some of my recent gas station fill ups, the car's revs would fluctuate in idle to the point that it would often stall. Shortly after that I noticed I got the 5000 rev engine limit as well as the engine half full light and orange lights for DSC off, service engine soon, and brake.

The dealer said it could be anywhere from an O2 sensor to ICV to fuel pump. Just curious if anyone has experienced similar situations or can offer any advice. Thanks!
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      02-17-2014, 11:20 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kb8018 View Post
Hey guys, I was hoping that someone may be able to help provide some insight in what may be some possible problems I'm having with my M3. Car is at the dealer and I should get their report later this week.

On some of my recent gas station fill ups, the car's revs would fluctuate in idle to the point that it would often stall. Shortly after that I noticed I got the 5000 rev engine limit as well as the engine half full light and orange lights for DSC off, service engine soon, and brake.

The dealer said it could be anywhere from an O2 sensor to ICV to fuel pump. Just curious if anyone has experienced similar situations or can offer any advice. Thanks!
You would have to provide us with the engine codes in order for us to really provide any valuable suggestions. A fluctuating idle could have been caused by many things.
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      05-08-2014, 09:24 PM   #48
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P2298: O2 Sensor Out of Range During Deceleration bank2 Sensor1

Would this be pre or post cat?

Thank you in advance.
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      05-09-2014, 06:55 AM   #49
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Quote:
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P2298: O2 Sensor Out of Range During Deceleration bank2 Sensor1

Would this be pre or post cat?

Thank you in advance.
Pre-cat I believe. Driver's side.
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      06-15-2014, 07:46 AM   #50
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what all do you have to remove to get at the wiring for the pre cat sensors?
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      06-15-2014, 09:53 AM   #51
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Transmission cover and, for the driver's side, a small bracket secured by two 10 mm bolts. No need to remove the aluminum front tray/support. Do not remove or install 02 with the wires connected because they will twist too much. Remove what you need to in order to access the connector (what I noted above) and undo the connector first and connect it last.
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      06-15-2014, 08:49 PM   #52
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I need to do the side with the two bolts. Passenger for my car. Those bolts are evil. I can get to one of them through a hole in the undertray but the one closest to the cat is just at te wrong angle. Even if I get them out I won't get them back on. What is your trick?
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      06-15-2014, 09:06 PM   #53
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can the undertray be loosened at the back to hang down without complete removal? I didn't think so since it seems to provide structural rigidity.
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      06-15-2014, 09:42 PM   #54
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Yes, you can loosen the rear and middle bolts of the front undertray to give you another inch or two. Use a 1/4 drive on the 10 mm bolts on that little bracket. Tighten up the front aluminum undertray to spec afterwards. It actually is a structural reinforcement.
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      06-16-2014, 05:05 PM   #55
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Thanks a lot. I got it eventually. It is making me rethink getting an xpipe upgrade because I'd have to do that again! Maybe easier with the xpipe dropped...
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      06-16-2014, 08:39 PM   #56
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First time takes longest. I can swap an x-pipe in 1.5 hours.
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      08-17-2014, 11:42 PM   #57
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I have codes 031, 037, 051 and 057. Does this mean all of my sensors are bad or could it be a central location (fuse box?) for all of them?
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      12-17-2014, 01:39 PM   #58
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If you have primary cats deleted with an Akrapovic Evo setup and the Delete-R to suppress the CEL could you use one of the rear O2 sensor bungs for an aftermarket wideband and just altogether remove one of the stock rear sensors?
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      12-17-2014, 11:40 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrecklessfool View Post
If you have primary cats deleted with an Akrapovic Evo setup and the Delete-R to suppress the CEL could you use one of the rear O2 sensor bungs for an aftermarket wideband and just altogether remove one of the stock rear sensors?
I don't see why not. From my research it looks like the primary O2 sensors are already wideband so you can just log through the obd port?
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      12-18-2014, 12:06 AM   #60
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I don't see why not. From my research it looks like the primary O2 sensors are already wideband so you can just log through the obd port?
This is true, the fronts are wideband. I ordered an Awron gauge setup and it uses these for readouts. My issue is that the Awron will only display in Lambda. While this is ok, I am more familiar with the standard AFR displayed as 14.7, etc. I want to install an additional wideband and need another bung to do so. Welding titanium (Akra) is not as available as say stainless and it would cost an arm and a leg I'm sure to add a bung. Doing a bit more reading it looks like even with the delete-r plugged in I would still throw a code for pulling out the rear O2 sensor for the heating circuit. I could be wrong though. I also read the only way to get around this was to have a tuner tune out the rear sensors completely.
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      12-18-2014, 12:36 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrecklessfool View Post
This is true, the fronts are wideband. I ordered an Awron gauge setup and it uses these for readouts. My issue is that the Awron will only display in Lambda. While this is ok, I am more familiar with the standard AFR displayed as 14.7, etc. I want to install an additional wideband and need another bung to do so. Welding titanium (Akra) is not as available as say stainless and it would cost an arm and a leg I'm sure to add a bung. Doing a bit more reading it looks like even with the delete-r plugged in I would still throw a code for pulling out the rear O2 sensor for the heating circuit. I could be wrong though. I also read the only way to get around this was to have a tuner tune out the rear sensors completely.
I have a delete r and am catless and it clears the codes as designed. Are you saying if you completely unplug the secondary o2s the akra won't work? Why not keep them plugged in and just tuck them out on the way. This is 100% guaranteed to work.
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      12-18-2014, 12:40 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W Cole
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrecklessfool View Post
This is true, the fronts are wideband. I ordered an Awron gauge setup and it uses these for readouts. My issue is that the Awron will only display in Lambda. While this is ok, I am more familiar with the standard AFR displayed as 14.7, etc. I want to install an additional wideband and need another bung to do so. Welding titanium (Akra) is not as available as say stainless and it would cost an arm and a leg I'm sure to add a bung. Doing a bit more reading it looks like even with the delete-r plugged in I would still throw a code for pulling out the rear O2 sensor for the heating circuit. I could be wrong though. I also read the only way to get around this was to have a tuner tune out the rear sensors completely.
I have a delete r and am catless and it clears the codes as designed. Are you saying if you completely unplug the secondary o2s the akra won't work? Why not keep them plugged in and just tuck them out on the way. This is 100% guaranteed to work.
I believe there's a heating element on the sensor itself that might create issues just be removing it and tucking it out of the way. Wouldn't want it burning something up. I know they were heated on my E46. Could be wrong though. I guess you get creative with the relocation though. Anyone know if the sensors are heated?
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      04-29-2019, 07:06 PM   #63
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I'm going to do my O2s next month, do I need both the pre-cats and post-cats?
Or the pre-cats is enough? I'm getting some pretty terrible gas mileage and a very rich smell in the morning... Notice the power is a bit down compared to 20k miles ago (which when they were last changed).
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      04-29-2019, 07:33 PM   #64
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Post cats just monitor cat efficiency and do not effect how the engine runs.
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      04-30-2019, 12:46 AM   #65
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Quote:
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Post cats just monitor cat efficiency and do not effect how the engine runs.
Then I'll replace the two fronts.
Thanks for the heads-up.
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      09-15-2019, 06:52 PM   #66
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Car is hitting 130k kms and I don't think the O2 sensors have ever been replaced. Are these wear and tear parts that should be replaced occasionally, or do you use them until they break? I'm not getting any errors and have no issues at the moment.
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