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05-21-2016, 02:11 PM | #1 |
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This DIY is very easy!
Parts needed: 22312283285 - Transmission mounts (2) 8mm socket (1/4in dr) 10mm socket (long, 1/4in dr) 13mm socket (long or short, 3/8in dr) 3" extension (optional) 13" box wrench - for removing the nut securing the mount FLOOR JACKS! Jack the front of your car. I have two 3-ton Harbor Freight jacks. Since the enter lift point is too low, I jacked up one side, then slid the other jack under the center jack point. Use jack stands to support after having about 3ft clearance under the car. Next, remove the felt transmission cover. Use 8mm socket for the front 3 bolts and side nut caps. Use 10mm for the rear two that secures the transmission cover to the bracket. Put this aside. SUPPORT THE TRANSMISSION! I used my second floor jack with a hockey puck to support the transmission (Reference the RED CIRCLE in the pic). Jacked it up so that it is JUST ENOUGH PRESSURE. Do not jack up the transmission! The transmission is now exposed. I used the 13mm socket to loosen the bracket bolts, there are FOUR of them. Don't take them out yet. Take the 13mm box wrench and remove the two nuts securing the mount. Now, wiggle the bracket until it is loose, then remove the 4 13mm bolts. The bracket should now be easily removed. *Tip* - Remove the 10mm nuts securing the mounts to the transmission bracket to make things slightly easier prior to removing the bracket from the car. If not, you will either have to use a vice or something to keep the bracket from spinning as you try to remove the nuts Replace your mounts with the new ones you just bought. Reinstall everything in reverse order. That's it! Crack open a beverage of choice or light up a cigar |
05-21-2016, 06:42 PM | #3 |
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Awesome DIY bro...
Those mounts are they OEM? If they are may I ask why you didn't upgrade to a stiffer mount?
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05-21-2016, 07:56 PM | #4 |
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I used OEM mounts. I didn't want to risk NVH and want to maintain the original quality. Plus, I don't track my vehicle so I didn't see the benefits of a stiffer mount.
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05-21-2016, 08:27 PM | #6 |
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05-21-2016, 09:34 PM | #8 |
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05-23-2016, 05:46 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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01-24-2017, 10:52 AM | #11 |
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Pro tip: Don't overtorque the M8 bolts that mount to the unibody. Had to use an easy-out when one snapped at what couldn't have been more than 30nM on my torque wrench, it never clicked just kept turning till it snapped the sucker off. God willing at 180k I will change these again and will have bolts on-hand before I start next time...
Also, my mounts at 90k, while better looking than the engine mounts, were showing wear/cracking at the tabs that capture the cross brace and limit movement of the mounts and by extension, the transmission, so it's a great while you're in there for motor mounts If you don't ape a bolt and have to order new ones, this job takes under half an hour start to finish
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11-05-2019, 05:53 PM | #12 |
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Just did this today, super easy (especially with a quickjack). I had 105k miles on my original mounts. Haven't driven the car enough to tell a difference yet, but the old ones were definitely softer than the new ones (OEM BMW) I put in. Thanks for this DIY.
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