Track forum general chit chat.

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by rhyary

As I am making the car stiffer, my video camera started to shake as it is attached to the BK harness bar.

Does anyone know away to damping the vibration to the camera mount?

Use a Hero 7 or 8 with stabilization, I have no issues with vibrations from my cage mount, windshield, or tow hook mount

[kyippee]

Originally Posted by WhiteM3EMC

This is fascinating. You guys both prefer to drive the car, on and off track, without it? I don't think I've ever driven the car with that button off. Now I guess I have something else to try at the next track event.

Yea, on track and on street, my car is on the normal throttle setting

[dbyrd]

Originally Posted by rhyary

As I am making the car stiffer, my video camera started to shake as it is attached to the BK harness bar.

Does anyone know away to damping the vibration to the camera mount?

I finally attached mine to the driver's headrest. Seems that my heft is good for something!

[SonnyJack]

Originally Posted by kayha12

Here’s my fast lap at summit main. And yeah you can tell when I try to ease into the throttle it hits too hard and I back out of it. If you look closely enough the grip does not like this either haha I’m going to have it turned off moving forward

Great friggin' lap! Heading to SP-Main this weekend and hoping to put some miles on new R7's!

[//steve\\]

Originally Posted by kayha12

Does anyone here drive with the "power" mode off, or do you drive with it on? I've always had it on but am contemplating turning it off as it makes the throttle super sensitive for areas where you want to ease into throttle or "throttle management" sections

Originally Posted by roastbeef

It's worthless. Keep it off.

Originally Posted by dparm

Leave it off. You want linear response -- 10% more pedal means 10% more throttle. Same for steering settings.

I don't know how anyone drives the car with it on. Like others have said it makes the gas pedal a complete on/off switch. It takes a little bit of time getting used to it being off as the pedal initially feels almost like it's doing nothing but now that I never use it, I'm fully accustomed and wouldn't want it any other way.

I don't really like the steering setting changed either.

[dparm]

It would allow you to get back to WOT sooner, but my concern would be precise modulation as you are on the limit of traction. Maintenance throttle (20%) would also be a challenge.

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by dparm

It would allow you to get back to WOT sooner, but my concern would be precise modulation as you are on the limit of traction. Maintenance throttle (20%) would also be a challenge.

But which is better, earlier WOT with a massive correction or slightly later WOT with perfect rotation?

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

But which is better, earlier WOT with a massive correction or slightly later WOT with perfect rotation?

I'll take slightly later WOT with predictable rotation. Getting to WOT 0.1 seconds earlier but ending up with severe oversteer and ruining a lap is going to wear thin.

[kyippee]

later WOT... I do WOT too early and end up lifting before any crazy shit happens, then my exit is compromised

[OG Shark]

[SYT_Shadow]

The right throttle setting is non sport. The more linear the better.

The on/off switch of the Sport throttle is pretty useless


I spent the weekend working with two BMW M race drivers on my CS and a friend's GTS. I was asked to set the throttle to 'efficient' and the gearbox to the slowest shift speed on the F8Xs.
One driver in particular laughed at the idea of running the gearbox on the fastest mode, saying all it did was destroy tires and stress the tranny/diff.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

The right throttle setting is non sport. The more linear the better.

The on/off switch of the Sport throttle is pretty useless


I spent the weekend working with two BMW M race drivers on my CS and a friend's GTS. I was asked to set the throttle to 'efficient' and the gearbox to the slowest shift speed on the F8Xs.
One driver in particular laughed at the idea of running the gearbox on the fastest mode, saying all it did was destroy tires and stress the tranny/diff.

DriveLogic mode is an interesting one. Everything is about trade-offs.


If you user a slower shift speed, there is less driveline shock but you are relying on the clutches more. In faster modes, the driveline will get hit with sharp impulses, but the clutch wear will be reduced.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by dparm

DriveLogic mode is an interesting one. Everything is about trade-offs.


If you user a slower shift speed, there is less driveline shock but you are relying on the clutches more. In faster modes, the driveline will get hit with sharp impulses, but the clutch wear will be reduced.

I don't know what shift speed '1' on the F8X corresponds to in the E9X.
In the F8X, shifts are crisp even in '1', it just doesn't provide the 'whack' in your back of the higher modes

[Bimmer Barney]

When I'm on track I have shift mode to max and power button on. I just like the way it feels and my foot is accustomed to the throttle sensitivity.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney

When I'm on track I have shift mode to max and power button on. I just like the way it feels and my foot is accustomed to the throttle sensitivity.

DriveLogic should be maxed out on track, IMO. You won't no interruption of power -- lap times will be better, and the car won't get unsettled inbetween gears.


Us manual elitist jerks have to time our shifts and sometimes short-shift before certain segments.

[Grillpt]

Power button is always on in my car. It can be sensitive at times in 1st and 2nd, but overall, I prefer the response. Maybe I'll try driving without it.. just for second, just to see what it feels like.

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by dparm

Us manual elitist jerks have to time our shifts and sometimes short-shift before certain segments.

Or ride the rev limiter in places because extra shifting is either not possible for a section and/or would slow us down. I'm actually getting a tune revision for 8600 rev limiter for this reason.

[Bartledoo]

I feel like I'm full of questions for you guys lately, but does anybody have a source for PFC Z54 pads other than bimmerworld? They are out of the 11 compound and I need to order soon.

[WhiteM3EMC]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

I feel like I'm full of questions for you guys lately, but does anybody have a source for PFC Z54 pads other than bimmerworld? They are out of the 11 compound and I need to order soon.

https://www.kohrmotorsports.com/prod...7954-11-28-44/

Same PN as what Bimmerworld lists for the Z54 pads in the 11 compound. Bout 80 bucks more than BW would charge you, though. Maybe shoot em an email quoting BW's price and see if they'll price match?

[//steve\\]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

Or ride the rev limiter in places because extra shifting is either not possible for a section and/or would slow us down. I'm actually getting a tune revision for 8600 rev limiter for this reason.

This is where I find the DCT has the biggest advantage. Quite often you sacrifice just a few more MPH because it would require you to upshift and then about a second later downshift.

[//steve\\]

For those that don't have access to a 4-post lift or ramps, how do you set your sway bar endlinks up? In the past what I've typically done is just put a jack under the corner I'm working on and raise the hub until it appears it's going to start physically lifting the car up off the jackstands. This should get close to "on the ground" load. In all my time messing with cars I've always owned something that worked fine with OE links so this is my first time messing with adjustable ones.

Maybe my logic is a bit faulty here so that's what I'm asking.

That said, following that process it appears my Fall-Line endlinks are actually too long even when shortened as much as possible.

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by //steve\\

For those that don't have access to a 4-post lift or ramps, how do you set your sway bar endlinks up? In the past what I've typically done is just put a jack under the corner I'm working on and raise the hub until it appears it's going to start physically lifting the car up off the jackstands. This should get close to "on the ground" load. In all my time messing with cars I've always owned something that worked fine with OE links so this is my first time messing with adjustable ones.

Maybe my logic is a bit faulty here so that's what I'm asking.

That said, following that process it appears my Fall-Line endlinks are actually too long even when shortened as much as possible.

It depends on which end.
The front does not need adjustable sway bar as the car is naturally understeering. So getting a fixed stiffer bar like the H&R one requires an OEM non adjustable length.

For the rear using the Hotchkis on 70% was useful, BUT, going to the 70% holes put the link at an angle. At 92% hole it is either too stiff or the angle of the link made it it not usable (for me) and I actually broke the rear SB

So after messing with the Hotchkis front and back adjustables and seeing what happens with the links, I gave up on adjustables sway bars.

In short, adjusting the links also change the angle of the links and the benefits are not that straight forward as one would like.

A note about the H&R SB, by going to solid from tube, they were able to make it same size and I think same thickness and get 50% stiffer than stock. Doing close to 10 trackdays on the H&R I can fill the SB are more line a spring rather than a limiter. I think this is characteristic of the solid SB, it feels more like a spring. I dont have data to backup up my "feel" but it does feel better.

I am aware that my reputation of trying "crazy" things and configurations limits my ability to advise on E92 M3 setup. But at the same time, I am also talking from experience because if I have 4 adjustable holes on the front SB and three in the back, I will be trying all the holes on any combination.