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06-08-2019, 09:57 AM | #9527 | |
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So did you get studs? Titanium? Is see you're back to the CCB's, what was causing the problem with the excessive wear you were getting?
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06-08-2019, 11:01 AM | #9528 | ||
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. There is no excessive wear on the pads. We do know now that the passenger front internal pad wears out more than the other 3. The front wear pattern is from most to least: 1. Passenger inside 2. Passenger outside 3. Driver inside 4. Driver ouside. Currently the most wear is 7mm and least wear is 9mm. All pads are identical so we flipped them accordingly to even out the wear. You live and learn (it was expensive lesson) and now that I know, I check thickness where it count. |
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06-08-2019, 11:02 AM | #9529 | ||
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06-08-2019, 11:20 AM | #9530 | ||
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Until you experience carbon ceramic, and go back to OEM it is hard to comprehend the difference in control and predictability. Caron Ceramic is not about the fact that it brakes better, it does, but it is about how predictable and consistent the brakes are. There is no fade, no change in rate of breaking, no change from the first session to last session. There is no change from three years ago on the same rotors. Pads last almost a whole season. requires only one change in 25 track days. I am not advising for any one to get this or that equipment. But my experience with the Caron Ceramic breaks has been nothing but spectacular. We already discuss ad nausea the limited tire choices. |
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06-08-2019, 03:51 PM | #9531 | |||
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I've learned the same lesson with the brake pad wear... we have a track over here, laguna seca, that typically wears at the inside passenger front pad excessively. A pro driver explained it simply as a high speed braking zone leading into one of the slower parts of the track, which is a double apex hairpin (or an elongated single late apex depending on car/style). It's a left turn where the inside passenger brake pad is turned away from any airflow for an extended amount of time if you don't have ducting. I experience the CCB's on a competition m4 at a thermal club m track day. The brakes were good and didn't fade, but I prefer a little more bite. Have you ever tried different compounds, or are you stuck with what brembo gives you for the CCB?
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06-08-2019, 07:33 PM | #9532 | ||||
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06-08-2019, 07:52 PM | #9533 | |||||
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06-10-2019, 01:24 AM | #9537 | ||
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Plus lap timing beginning in motion means when you leave the garage. Sometimes it's ten minutes before the session starts and I don't need all that data to sort out. Sort of like having video of ten minutes sitting there doing nothing. I turn everything on when the session is a go.
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06-10-2019, 01:30 AM | #9538 | |
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06-10-2019, 06:49 AM | #9539 | ||
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But you are bringing up a good and valid point for the DL. |
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06-10-2019, 03:47 PM | #9540 | |
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how's the shock travel monitoring going?
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06-10-2019, 03:50 PM | #9541 |
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06-10-2019, 11:45 PM | #9542 |
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The aftermarket for CCB pads is growing, which is nice to see. The Corvette and Camaro Z/28 guys were stuck using the OEM Brembo pads for a long time, which in turn led to many of them swapping the rotors for GiroDisc iron ones. Now you have Pagid and Endless giving owners a choice.
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06-11-2019, 06:23 PM | #9543 | |
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Would love to pay less due to competition. |
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06-11-2019, 06:28 PM | #9544 | |
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Improved my best time to 1:01.75 and many laps in the 1:02s. 97 laps all together. See my other thread for best lap video . |
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06-12-2019, 12:56 AM | #9545 |
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The prices are not down to the levels of normal pads, but they're certainly better than the insane $800 amount that GM charges. I've not seen anything that describes if these aftermarket pads are any better, but the OEM stuff seems to be amazing -- so even if the performance is identical and it costs 20% less, that's a win. You do have services that refurb the carbon rotors, too. In fact, the GM rotors are so cheap that my old shop (Fall-Line) said they typically just buy those and manufacture their own hub to fit other cars. Much cheaper than the Porsche or Ferrari prices for what is effectively the same part.
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06-12-2019, 08:58 AM | #9546 |
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Two things for you guys:
1) KW Clubsports - my rear strut, I was going to reset the dampening and add some stiffness to it. The instructions say to start full stiff and work your way back. I got all the way to full stiff (no added force or anything) but now the knob is stuck. Am I screwed? I tried driving around a bit to see if it'll loosen up but no luck 2) What front camber plates work with these coilovers? I'm at about -2.5 degrees front and that's "maxed" out before the sliding plate tucks under the actual strut mount on the car. Was thinking about slotting the holes to add camber this way; what is everyone else doing? Would like to get closer to -3ish
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06-12-2019, 11:18 AM | #9547 | |
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Rear adjustment damper - no suggestions for you.
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06-12-2019, 11:34 AM | #9548 | |
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