Throttle Actuator or ICV or TPS?

[douglee25]

Gentlemen -

Question for you. Recently started getting the Throttle Actuator code Bank 2 - (2B16 - P210A). I can sometimes get it to clear and drive for another 50 miles before it goes back into limp mode.

I ran ISTA/D to find the code and then ran a test of the sensor within ISTA/D. It passes all tests but one on Bank 2 -

"Integral Duty Factor Ramp 2 - Not OK"

For kicks I ran the test on Throttle Actuator #1 (currently no errors in ISTA/D) and it failed as well, yet it's working fine. It actually failed two tests -

"Integral Duty Factor Ramp 1 - Not OK"
"Integral Duty Factor Ramp 2 - Not OK"


Some questions -

1. Is the test meaningless at this point?
2. Would you still suspect the Throttle Actuator? Could it be lube related on the throttle shafts?
3. I have read a few other threads where the ICV or TPS/Hall Sensor have been blamed as well. Before I go part replacing, what is the likelihood that it's either the ICV or TPS?


Any direction is appreciated!

Thanks.

Doug

[douglee25]

Anyone?

[doogee]

The test should work properly. Sounds like you're due for two actuators.

[EJT86]

just because the code clears and you stay out of limp mode for a period of time doesnt mean the TAs arent failing. if you had that happen then yes the TA is failing and it will continue to do so its not going to go away

[douglee25]

Originally Posted by doogee

The test should work properly. Sounds like you're due for two actuators.

You've ran this test before and all tests have stated "OK"?

Originally Posted by EJT86

just because the code clears and you stay out of limp mode for a period of time doesnt mean the TAs arent failing. if you had that happen then yes the TA is failing and it will continue to do so its not going to go away

Totally understand. My question wasn't around failed vs. not, but more so around could these symptoms be presented due to other components ie ICV or TPS like others have mentioned?

[EJT86]

Originally Posted by douglee25

You've ran this test before and all tests have stated "OK"?




Totally understand. My question wasn't around failed vs. not, but more so around could these symptoms be presented due to other components ie ICV or TPS like others have mentioned?

from what ive read if either the ICV or TPS is acting up the code will be directly tied to either one. if you dont have any symptoms of a failing ICV then i say replace the failed TAs since theyre def causing problems and see where you are after

[douglee25]

Basically where I was going... just hate forking over $1200 out of the blue!

[JP10]

Originally Posted by douglee25

Basically where I was going... just hate forking over $1200 out of the blue!

Doesn't have to be crazy expensive. Removed mine last weekend, and currently getting refurbished TAs through Jason at Rebuild with a lifetime warranty. Plan to put the new back in this weekend, ~$700 for both all said and done.

[doogee]

Originally Posted by douglee25

You've ran this test before and all tests have stated "OK"?

Yes they should absolutely pass. Yours are not operating within they're specified range.

[douglee25]

Originally Posted by JPacy

Doesn't have to be crazy expensive. Removed mine last weekend, and currently getting refurbished TAs through Jason at Rebuild with a lifetime warranty. Plan to put the new back in this weekend, ~$700 for both all said and done.

Originally Posted by doogee

Yes they should absolutely pass. Yours are not operating within they're specified range.

Ordered new ones from FCP Euro for $500/each with a lifetime warranty.

Keep you posted.

Thanks for the help.

[douglee25]

To report back -

I installed the following -

1. New throttle actuators - $1000
2. New fuel tank breather valve - $40
3. New valve cover gaskets - $100
4. New plug well seals - $80
5. New valve cover bolts/grommets - $255 (ouch)
6. New plugs - $100
7. New air filter - $45
Runs like an beast now! No codes thus far. I noticed that my throttle input this morning was very smooth even when cold. Typically after a 30 second warm up, the car would occasionally buck in 1st gear. Hopefully the throttle actuators resolve that issue. I figured while I was in there, I'd do the rest of the maintenance stuff including the gas tank breather valve. Engine rpm would always fluctuate at a light just after filling up. We will see if that symptom is gone at the next refuel.

I spent between 8-9 hours doing the work over two evenings. The throttle actuators took about 1 hour. I spent 2 hours cleaning valve covers and pulling the bar code stickers off the plug well seals! I finally got smart after only 2 seals and I grabbed my heat gun and preheated the stickers. They came off much much quicker. The balance of the work I spent on the valve cover R&R and plug swap. I think I spent 30 mins at the end looking for a flash light too... never fails you're always misplacing one tool during a job!

Total cost - $1590.00



Doug

[drivel2787]

Originally Posted by douglee25

To report back -

I installed the following -

1. New throttle actuators - $1000
2. New fuel tank breather valve - $40
3. New valve cover gaskets - $100
4. New plug well seals - $80
5. New valve cover bolts/grommets - $255 (ouch)
6. New plugs - $100
7. New air filter - $45
Runs like an beast now! No codes thus far. I noticed that my throttle input this morning was very smooth even when cold. Typically after a 30 second warm up, the car would occasionally buck in 1st gear. Hopefully the throttle actuators resolve that issue. I figured while I was in there, I'd do the rest of the maintenance stuff including the gas tank breather valve. Engine rpm would always fluctuate at a light just after filling up. We will see if that symptom is gone at the next refuel.

I spent between 8-9 hours doing the work over two evenings. The throttle actuators took about 1 hour. I spent 2 hours cleaning valve covers and pulling the bar code stickers off the plug well seals! I finally got smart after only 2 seals and I grabbed my heat gun and preheated the stickers. They came off much much quicker. The balance of the work I spent on the valve cover R&R and plug swap. I think I spent 30 mins at the end looking for a flash light too... never fails you're always misplacing one tool during a job!

Total cost - $1590.00



Doug

I rebuilt the Actuators with new gears.... Same issue... Could the electronics in them be bad? I wanted to try the gear set before buying completely new ones. I also cleaned VANOS sensors with brake fluid..... The only things I haven't done yet are replace the battery, replace accelerator, or TPS.... I don't want to throw $500-1000 at these things and replace the actuator and end up with the same issue..... Anyone run into that before?

[Pauliecas]

$1000 for throttle actuators. Memories

[EJT86]

RebuildUSA FTW for actuators. Best prices very responsive too

https://rebuild-usa.com/

[BOOF-M3]

Originally Posted by EJT86

RebuildUSA FTW for actuators. Best prices very responsive too

Thanks EJ yes they are currently on sale $340 each.

https://rebuild-usa.com

drivel2787 happy to speak to you about rebuilds if you need or I am happy to help you go through them yourself and give you some advice on what to look for.

[OperationGraphiteM3]

Originally Posted by drivel2787

I rebuilt the Actuators with new gears.... Same issue... Could the electronics in them be bad? I wanted to try the gear set before buying completely new ones. I also cleaned VANOS sensors with brake fluid..... The only things I haven't done yet are replace the battery, replace accelerator, or TPS.... I don't want to throw $500-1000 at these things and replace the actuator and end up with the same issue..... Anyone run into that before?

I'd recommend Euro Parts Palace. I got my actuators from there. They provide a lifetime warranty and great customer service. They've also been around for years as well and their actuators are in hundreds of cars out there today.

https://eupartspalace.com/product-ca...tle-actuators/