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      09-19-2019, 07:45 PM   #1
monte84
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DCT Codes after battery change

Car: 2011 E93 80K Miles.

My car has recently been showing signs of needing a new battery. The only real alarming issue was when the car threw a transmission warning and would not engage any gears. This was fixed by letting the car sit 10-20 minutes and restarting. The transmission never acted up, nor did the issue ever return.

I had a day off, so I took the car to an Indy dealer and he confirmed that I needed a new battery. He replaced and programmed the battery and mentioned that the transmission issue happened twice to him. Both times, it was fixed by walking away and restarting 10 minutes. The mechanic also took it for a test drive both times and mentioned it shifted just fine.

He obviously had a code reader, and pulled the following codes:

5073
5074
5A48
5A55

After searching a bit, my symptoms seem to be common along with the same 4 codes. However, none of the posts I found actually confirm what the issue was and how it was resolved.

I'm curious if anyone had this issue and what the ultimate solution ended up being? My mechanic is out for a few days, so I wanted to research a bit.
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      09-19-2019, 08:31 PM   #2
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when was the last time you did a full DCT service? fluid, filter and pan gasket replacement? if it's been a while, that would help your DCT function better. most of the time the DCT play up when it's low on fluid, but doing a full service is much better than just topping it up.
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      09-20-2019, 12:05 AM   #3
monte84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fezza View Post
when was the last time you did a full DCT service? fluid, filter and pan gasket replacement? if it's been a while, that would help your DCT function better. most of the time the DCT play up when it's low on fluid, but doing a full service is much better than just topping it up.
I haven't had the car that long, so I'm not sure. Perhaps that is what I should look into next.
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      09-20-2019, 12:48 AM   #4
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the difference between before and after the DCT service was night and day for me, that's why I now plan on doing it every 2-3 years from now on even though I only drive mine 3K (miles) / year
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      09-20-2019, 10:25 AM   #5
monte84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fezza View Post
the difference between before and after the DCT service was night and day for me, that's why I now plan on doing it every 2-3 years from now on even though I only drive mine 3K (miles) / year
Oh wow, that is good to know. Thanks for the input. I'll assume it wasn't done, or hasn't been done in a long time. Do you know what all goes into the service? I'm trying to determine if this is something an indy mechanic can do.

Cheers!
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      09-21-2019, 09:25 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monte84 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fezza View Post
the difference between before and after the DCT service was night and day for me, that's why I now plan on doing it every 2-3 years from now on even though I only drive mine 3K (miles) / year
Oh wow, that is good to know. Thanks for the input. I'll assume it wasn't done, or hasn't been done in a long time. Do you know what all goes into the service? I'm trying to determine if this is something an indy mechanic can do.

Cheers!
you have the same issue as I did.

Did you car jerk a bit as it couldnt go from P to R or D?

My DCT was not leaking and I had the GTS tune. Im back on stock, make sure I dont have my dashcam running when I'm away from my car, and when I'm away for long business trips, I charge it with a battery tender (replaced the battery as well). My tranny shifts fine, no lag at all in reverse or drive, shifting etc on stock. it's been 2 months and I havent checked codes yet but plan to.

my car has 15,780 miles. very low and dont believe anything is wrong with the transmission to be honest.
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      09-23-2019, 02:18 PM   #7
monte84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xnfsx View Post
you have the same issue as I did.

Did you car jerk a bit as it couldnt go from P to R or D?

My DCT was not leaking and I had the GTS tune. Im back on stock, make sure I dont have my dashcam running when I'm away from my car, and when I'm away for long business trips, I charge it with a battery tender (replaced the battery as well). My tranny shifts fine, no lag at all in reverse or drive, shifting etc on stock. it's been 2 months and I havent checked codes yet but plan to.

my car has 15,780 miles. very low and dont believe anything is wrong with the transmission to be honest.
How would I know if the previous owner had a custom tune loaded? I personally haven't tuned anything.
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      09-23-2019, 09:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monte84 View Post
How would I know if the previous owner had a custom tune loaded? I personally haven't tuned anything.
do step 5 as described here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...8#post18933848

if your DCT HW-NR is not 7845773 or 7848442 then it hasn't been flashed to GTS.

or easiest is if your car starts in auto D2 mode then you have GTS tune, otherwise if it starts in manual S mode then you're stock

Last edited by Fezza; 09-24-2019 at 06:57 PM..
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      04-24-2020, 10:03 PM   #9
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Thumbs up Grounding Strap and DCT

I swapped my grounding strap while doing coils and plugs and my DCT has no longer been acting silly on occasion and at times sticking in park on initial startup.

I am hoping I can confirm after a few months this was the root cause.
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      11-03-2020, 08:39 PM   #10
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Same exact thing in my car OP. Just switched out the battery tonight, hoping for improvement! Same codes also...
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      11-03-2020, 10:07 PM   #11
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When my battery died I saw a heap of errors on the dash. One of which was the gear cog and referred to the trans. Replaced battery and cleared codes and nothing ever returned. Get a coding tool and ISTA-INPA-Winkfp-Tools32-etc. battery, alternator and overall electrical issues will prompt many codes because all ecu's need constant power or they get finecky. If you clear the codes and have trans codes return then I would actually follow up on them.
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      11-10-2020, 04:04 PM   #12
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Update: Switched the battery in my car and still seem to throw those same four codes. Took it to the dealership for diagnostic, they kept the car for two days and didn't come up with anything concrete. Said it could be a fault in a wiring harness, or the mechatronics. Certainly nothing concrete enough to start tearing the car apart.

I'm still thinking the source of the issue is still voltage related but now thinking there is a voltage suck elsewhere, leading to a voltage drop when cranking, and throw the codes.

Going to so some experimentation with the car on a battery tender, and off to see if I can get some repeatability and pinpoint the problem.
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      05-15-2021, 01:40 PM   #13
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Hello all, greetings from Madrid in Spain. I have been suffering these four codes for a while.

My old battery was arriving to the end, launching "low battery" alert very often. One day, suddenly, it launched the “gear fail” signal and I was stacked in P. Like you say, if you turn off and let him 3 minutes, you restart and failure is gone. I was convinced it was something from the low voltage.

I replaced battery and it was apparently solved. BUT, after some time, it came back.

I do not care making the DCT maintenance, the car is only 83.000 km = 52.000 miles, but it is a 2012 car so… it is the time.

BUT, my fear is that that does not solve the problem. I suspect the voltage is low in the battery (I see it on the OBD2 connection), and I wonder if the alternator is not charging the new battery properly…

Anyone has news or update in this matter?

Thank you!
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      05-24-2021, 05:03 AM   #14
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Hello all!

Just let you know that my ground strap was totally loose. I think they forgot to tight it properly after rod bearing substitution... so... well, now I have to observe it... but I bet problem is finally solved.

Before going to the shop, I made an easy test measuring with a voltmeter (car started, lights and air on) between the engine block (from the ring for lift it) and the ground point in the body (in the left part of the body, close to the VIN number in the bumper). If it is good, voltage there should be 0 (the engine block is connected to ground throughout the ground strap). When my ground was loose it was more than 0,7 volt!!

Because of this I asked my mechanic directly to check the main ground strap (you have to lift the car and remove carter cover for easy access), and that was there: Loose cable. We saved time!

Alter tightening again, measured voltage came to 0, or 0,02 maximum.

Well, I have to observe it. But I dare to say that was the issue.

Thank you to all, especially the mates with the same or similar problems that helped here, or by private message!

Javier.
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      05-24-2021, 03:46 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaviV8 View Post
Hello all!

Just let you know that my ground strap was totally loose. I think they forgot to tight it properly after rod bearing substitution... so... well, now I have to observe it... but I bet problem is finally solved.

Before going to the shop, I made an easy test measuring with a voltmeter (car started, lights and air on) between the engine block (from the ring for lift it) and the ground point in the body (in the left part of the body, close to the VIN number in the bumper). If it is good, voltage there should be 0 (the engine block is connected to ground throughout the ground strap). When my ground was loose it was more than 0,7 volt!!

Because of this I asked my mechanic directly to check the main ground strap (you have to lift the car and remove carter cover for easy access), and that was there: Loose cable. We saved time!

Alter tightening again, measured voltage came to 0, or 0,02 maximum.

Well, I have to observe it. But I dare to say that was the issue.

Thank you to all, especially the mates with the same or similar problems that helped here, or by private message!

Javier.
Gracias, lovely when folks report back with their solution. Good advice to easy check grounding, will do the same as experience some weird codes.
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      08-31-2021, 03:42 PM   #16
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So the DCT is highly dependent on proper voltages.

It tries to compensate over time, so if any electrical cables/wires/batteries get swapped or repaired, the DCT is going to be "Off"/mis-adjusting from the significant broken to fixed change in voltage.

Assuming you fixed the grounding strap/B+ cable issue/alternator/battery, you can give it a few days to re calibrate, or reset adaptations.
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