DIY Carplay/Android Auto Carsara Install and Setup Tips

[bighindu79]

Originally Posted by noremaC

Got everything plugged in, fired up and get a red-ish screen. I did not connect anything to the iDrive controller - assuming quadralock would pick it up. Is this not the case (maybe I misunderstood your comment @cyberdemon)? There were a bunch of "can" connectors that I left unconnected (Connect A#, Connect B# and Connect L#). I also removed the cable that says iDrive on one end and C# iDrive CAN/CiC-KT-v2 on the other because I wasn't plugging into anything and it would take up room. I wouldn't think if I left it plugged in it would change anything as it's not plugging into the iDrive controller itself.

When Carsara emailed me the attached instructions, they gave 3 connect options (see screenshot below for Connect A#, Connect B#, Connect L#).

The "red screen of death" has me thinking it's a video connection issue. Not sure where I went wrong.

I also tried multiple combinations of dip switches:
3,4
3,4,7
4,7 etc.

Is our CIC screen 6.5" or 8.8"? I assume 8.8"

Connect A plug to B. E9x CIC is 8.8" screen size

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by noremaC

Got everything plugged in, fired up and get a red-ish screen. I did not connect anything to the iDrive controller - assuming quadralock would pick it up. Is this not the case (maybe I misunderstood your comment @cyberdemon)? There were a bunch of "can" connectors that I left unconnected (Connect A#, Connect B# and Connect L#). I also removed the cable that says iDrive on one end and C# iDrive CAN/CiC-KT-v2 on the other because I wasn't plugging into anything and it would take up room. I wouldn't think if I left it plugged in it would change anything as it's not plugging into the iDrive controller itself.

When Carsara emailed me the attached instructions, they gave 3 connect options (see screenshot below for Connect A#, Connect B#, Connect L#).

The "red screen of death" has me thinking it's a video connection issue. Not sure where I went wrong.

I also tried multiple combinations of dip switches:
3,4
3,4,7
4,7 etc.

Is our CIC screen 6.5" or 8.8"? I assume 8.8"

34 work for me without a combox. 347 worked screenwise but the mic didn’t.

The first time I fired up the unit I had a red screen. I turned it off and back on and the screen came up properly. Make sure your extension lvsd cable is plugged in correctly and firmly. You have to tuck the wire neatly behind the unit otherwise it will get pinched and cause a malfunction. Check the pins to make sure they aren’t bent and not seating properly. Remove the loop D and connect A to B.

[noremaC]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

34 work for me without a combox. 347 worked screenwise but the mic didn’t.

The first time I fired up the unit I had a red screen. I turned it off and back on and the screen came up properly. Make sure your extension lvsd cable is plugged in correctly and firmly. You have to tuck the wire neatly behind the unit otherwise it will get pinched and cause a malfunction. Check the pins to make sure they aren’t bent and not seating properly. Remove the loop D and connect A to B.

It's a tight fit for sure. When you say connect A to B, are both A & B cables within the Carsara harness? Is or B a cable from the OEM head unit? I don't remember seeing that type of cable already in the car.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by noremaC

It's a tight fit for sure. When you say connect A to B, are both A & B cables within the Carsara harness? Is or B a cable from the OEM head unit? I don't remember seeing that type of cable already in the car.

Yes A and B are part of the harness. You don’t need this anymore if you coded properly.

[noremaC]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

Yes A and B are part of the harness. You don’t need this anymore if you coded properly.

She's coded properly via BimmerCode. I will take out D and connect A to B. Will report back.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by noremaC

Got everything plugged in, fired up and get a red-ish screen. I did not connect anything to the iDrive controller - assuming quadralock would pick it up. Is this not the case (maybe I misunderstood your comment @cyberdemon)? There were a bunch of "can" connectors that I left unconnected (Connect A#, Connect B# and Connect L#). I also removed the cable that says iDrive on one end and C# iDrive CAN/CiC-KT-v2 on the other because I wasn't plugging into anything and it would take up room. I wouldn't think if I left it plugged in it would change anything as it's not plugging into the iDrive controller itself.

When Carsara emailed me the attached instructions, they gave 3 connect options (see screenshot below for Connect A#, Connect B#, Connect L#).

The "red screen of death" has me thinking it's a video connection issue. Not sure where I went wrong.

I also tried multiple combinations of dip switches:
3,4
3,4,7
4,7 etc.

Is our CIC screen 6.5" or 8.8"? I assume 8.8"

I got the red screen a few times during install, so don't fret it's likely just a setting or connection.

-per their instructions I'd try Combo 2 - remove the IDrive controller harness entirely and just do A#->B#

-The display may still be unrelated - try swapping the LVDS cables if you haven't already. Make sure they're all seated correctly, I had mine backwards initially.

-flipping the dip switches might be causing you more problems. If that sets the video output mode and the box is still powered it may cause an issue. My box only has 3/4 on, so I would only try that or 3/4/7. Consider disconnecting the battery and then letting it all power back up.

[noremaC]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

I got the red screen a few times during install, so don't fret it's likely just a setting or connection.

-per their instructions I'd try Combo 2 - remove the IDrive controller harness entirely and just do A#->B#

-The display may still be unrelated - try swapping the LVDS cables if you haven't already. Make sure they're all seated correctly, I had mine backwards initially.

-flipping the dip switches might be causing you more problems. If that sets the video output mode and the box is still powered it may cause an issue. My box only has 3/4 on, so I would only try that or 3/4/7. Consider disconnecting the battery and then letting it all power back up.

Thanks.

For the LVDS cables I have teal/pink connected and the tan back into the tan connection.

Will give these a try tmrw. Thanks

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

Eureka!

Camera issue solved. 6MT cars may require a quality relay which sends the relay output (red wire #87) output through a 12V voltage rectifier. See the picture below. The blue box with the "R" is the relay that feeds the the voltage rectifier which then feeds the camera. I went with the greenyi voltage rectifier paired with the greenyi camera link

Next add on is a manual override switch to power on the camera manually (reverse not required). I'll post pics shortly.

Relay —-> voltage rectifier —-> backup camera.

I am running several accessories including a radar detector, 500/1 amp, clean sweep and V3 LED angel eyes, so the system is far from stock voltage demands and may have contributed to the voltage issue.

Not sure I understand why you would need both the filter and a relay. Have you tried scrapping the relay altogether and running the filter on its own? I would have tried that if I knew about this filter before my install. Seems like an easier solution to get the same resulting 12v to the camera assuming it works.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

Not sure I understand why you would need both the filter and a relay. Have you tried scrapping the relay altogether and running the filter on its own? I would have tried that if I knew about this filter before my install. Seems like an easier solution to get the same resulting 12v to the camera assuming it works.

When I tested the backup light circuit voltage it was too low and inconsistent. It may be the age of my bulbs (nearly 10 years old) I used the right rear taillight, so it may be possible that the left provides a better tap. I’ll need the relay for the override switch I plan on adding so both are required for me build.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

34 work for me without a combox. 347 worked screenwise but the mic didn’t.

The first time I fired up the unit I had a red screen. I turned it off and back on and the screen came up properly. Make sure your extension lvsd cable is plugged in correctly and firmly. You have to tuck the wire neatly behind the unit otherwise it will get pinched and cause a malfunction. Check the pins to make sure they aren’t bent and not seating properly. Remove the loop D and connect A to B.

Oddly I have switches 347 on mine with no combox and everything works including the mic.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

When I tested the backup light circuit voltage it was too low and inconsistent. It may be the age of my bulbs (nearly 10 years old) I used the right rear taillight, so it may be possible that the left provides a better tap. I’ll need the relay for the override switch I plan on adding so both are required for me build.

This is why your previous comments and diagram confused me, where were you trying to get 12V power from for the relay? The reverse light would have been the switched end, were you connecting the 12V inputs for the relay directly to the battery, or to the tail light?

If you were trying to use the tail light to get the 12V from then that's why the relay didn't work. The voltage rectifier is just a capacitor that is able to store more of that energy so it can output a stable 12V, but if it's being fed by a lower voltage source it's only going to work for a short period of time and then your camera will destabilize again.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by akkando

Oddly I have switches 347 on mine with no combox and everything works including the mic.

It doesn’t surprise me. Maybe I should try 347 again to see if gets rid of the amp error.

The amp and supporting equipment went through seven revisions from 2009-2013, which may explain why the need for several dip switch options.

[noremaC]

A to B did the trick. 3/4/7 is the working dip switch setting.

Question: is there a way to get full screen back up camera? I get the parking sensor graphic but do not have rear parking sensors on my car (don't think M3's came with front sensors).

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

This is why your previous comments and diagram confused me, where were you trying to get 12V power from for the relay? The reverse light would have been the switched end, were you connecting the 12V inputs for the relay directly to the battery, or to the tail light?

If you were trying to use the tail light to get the 12V from then that's why the relay didn't work. The voltage rectifier is just a capacitor that is able to store more of that energy so it can output a stable 12V, but if it's being fed by a lower voltage source it's only going to work for a short period of time and then your camera will destabilize again.

I was running a 12v line from the battery to the relay (blue line #30). The taillight power was run to the switched end of the relay (white line #86 which would trigger the relay to turned on). The camera power was connected to the relay output (red line #87). Black line #85 is ground for camera and relay.

I added the voltage rectifier in between the relay and camera at the output #87 red line to #87 and the #85 ground to the camera.

Taillight + wire to relay white line #86
12v+ from battery power distribution block to blue line #30
Black line #85 to ground
Red line #87 to voltage rectifier
Voltage rectifier —-> camera positive (red line) and camera negative (black line)

I did not get consistent voltage out of the relay especially when the car is warming up (the exact time you need the camera). Voltage evens out after car is warmed up.

It is possible that locating the 12v line tap somewhere solves this but I prefer to keep it at the distribution block.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by noremaC

A to B did the trick. 3/4/7 is the working dip switch setting.

Question: is there a way to get full screen back up camera? I get the parking sensor graphic but do not have rear parking sensors on my car (don't think M3's came with front sensors).

Yes, go into the Carsara camera settings, there is an option for full screen. It requires a system reboot to take effect though.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

I was running a 12v line from the battery to the relay (blue line #30). The taillight power was run to the switched end of the relay (white line #86 which would trigger the relay to turned on). The camera power was connected to the relay output (red line #87). Black line #85 is ground for camera and relay.

I added the voltage rectifier in between the relay and camera at the output #87 red line to #87 and the #85 ground to the camera.

Taillight + wire to relay white line #86
12v+ from battery power distribution block to blue line #30
Black line #85 to ground
Red line #87 to voltage rectifier
Voltage rectifier —-> camera positive (red line) and camera negative (black line)

I did not get consistent voltage out of the relay especially when the car is warming up (the exact time you need the camera). Voltage evens out after car is warmed up.

It is possible that locating the 12v line tap somewhere solves this but I prefer to keep it at the distribution block.

Hmm that's weird, did you measure what voltage you were getting to #30 and see if it was actually giving you a stable 12V? I guess it's working either way for you now but seems odd.

[noremaC]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Yes, go into the Carsara camera settings, there is an option for full screen. It requires a system reboot to take effect though.

Thanks I found that after snooping around. When I started putting the dash back together, I gave it another test to ensure everything is working and the back up camera is now a black screen with the dynamic lines. The red/yellow wire is connected and so are the RCAs. The only change is me putting the dash back in which makes me think the "USB" harness into the Carsara unit is somehow unseated or a wire is ripped.

Any thoughts?

[GTiceman]

Originally Posted by noremaC

Got everything plugged in, fired up and get a red-ish screen. I did not connect anything to the iDrive controller - assuming quadralock would pick it up. Is this not the case (maybe I misunderstood your comment @cyberdemon)? There were a bunch of "can" connectors that I left unconnected (Connect A#, Connect B# and Connect L#). I also removed the cable that says iDrive on one end and C# iDrive CAN/CiC-KT-v2 on the other because I wasn't plugging into anything and it would take up room. I wouldn't think if I left it plugged in it would change anything as it's not plugging into the iDrive controller itself.

When Carsara emailed me the attached instructions, they gave 3 connect options (see screenshot below for Connect A#, Connect B#, Connect L#).

The "red screen of death" has me thinking it's a video connection issue. Not sure where I went wrong.

I also tried multiple combinations of dip switches:
3,4
3,4,7
4,7 etc.

Is our CIC screen 6.5" or 8.8"? I assume 8.8"

You still need to remove the "loop" from the carsara idrive connectors and connect A to B if I recall correctly even if not using their cable to connect the CiC controller. I had their cable plugged into the harness but not my controller and it all works fine as it gets the signal from the quadlock but I think the carsara unit looks for its harness and needs the a to b connection

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Hmm that's weird, did you measure what voltage you were getting to #30 and see if it was actually giving you a stable 12V? I guess it's working either way for you now but seems odd.

Agreed, this is odd. There is no reason the relay shouldn't be outputting a clean 12v without the rectifier if it's properly connected to the battery. Should not make any difference whether you tap the right or left taillight for the signal. Which positive battery terminal did you connect the relay to? I attached a screenshot from a video that shows which terminal I used.

Assuming you bought the 2 pack of relays from Amazon that I recommended, have you tried connecting the other one just to rule out the unlikely case of a bad relay?

Super weird, but glad you got it working.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by noremaC

Thanks I found that after snooping around. When I started putting the dash back together, I gave it another test to ensure everything is working and the back up camera is now a black screen with the dynamic lines. The red/yellow wire is connected and so are the RCAs. The only change is me putting the dash back in which makes me think the "USB" harness into the Carsara unit is somehow unseated or a wire is ripped.

Any thoughts?

The lines render from the Carsara UI so a black screen most likely means the RCA has a bad connection, otherwise it would most likely show "no signal". Check the RCA again on both ends.

[noremaC]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

The lines render from the Carsara UI so a black screen most likely means the RCA has a bad connection, otherwise it would most likely show "no signal". Check the RCA again on both ends.

It's up and running and fully functional!!! Appreciate all your support.

In regards to this issue, I think there was a wire pinched somewhere. The RCAs were solid and the red > yellow connection looked good. I actually left the battery "live", pulled out the Carsara unit, moved it around, restarted the car/engine and VOILA! I think there was a pinched connection.

Does anyone get a slight "hum" when the volume is really turned up? Also, I believe I read somewhere that the Aux audio volume in the iDrive menu needs to be set @ 50% - is that correct?

Feels great to have the car brought into the "20's" of tech, LOL

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by noremaC

It's up and running and fully functional!!! Appreciate all your support.

In regards to this issue, I think there was a wire pinched somewhere. The RCAs were solid and the red > yellow connection looked good. I actually left the battery "live", pulled out the Carsara unit, moved it around, restarted the car/engine and VOILA! I think there was a pinched connection.

Does anyone get a slight "hum" when the volume is really turned up? Also, I believe I read somewhere that the Aux audio volume in the iDrive menu needs to be set @ 50% - is that correct?

Feels great to have the car brought into the "20's" of tech, LOL

Are you using the 3.5mm or aux via quadlock? I have the aux volume set to around 70% I think and no hum.