Mr12Volt P2000 - Carplay/Android Auto w/M.O.S.T *New Model Update*

[spammysammich]

I didn't have any issues with the update or connection to Apple car play. Completely modernized my car so I don't feel like shitbox rental Sentras I use at work have better in car electronics. Clicking sound is less pronounced than it used to be, was more of a crack. Now it's a click but just about as frequent as before. Glad they've acknowledged the issue. Very satisfied with it so far.

[Tony B]

Originally Posted by netcsk

I'm 90% sure there is an independent camera picture adjustment. Put the car in reverse to activate the camera; then press the drive knob to bring it up. I haven't had to mess with the settings on mine in a while so I could be misremembering or it could be different for the original CCC release.

Yes!

Many thanks for the tip.

It is exactly as you describe, and this brings up brightness/contrast/colour settings for the camera.

Fixed the camera image - now just need to get this bloody connection flakiness sorted.

[ahheadlock]

Originally Posted by Jbpoore

Status update. Mr12volt sent me an entire new kit. I uninstalled the complete original kit and put it back in the box. Next I installed the new P2000 and reconnected everything. I did not use any of the same wiring. I removed the I-drive controller before I connected to the P2000 harness, this time I hear an audible click (Hurray the sound I was waiting for). Now I am super excited and put everything back together 100%. I was sure it was going to work. Sadly, still no scroll. Maybe you are not suppose to be able to rotate the dial to choose selection? The up and down on the knob lets me go through the options on the menu sorta of. Secondly the week while the old system was in my son told me that it would randomly stop working like it was losing power than come right back on. I experienced that again 1st hand after I installed the new unit. I did not see where I was suppose to wrap any connection with electrical tape. Seems like it randomly loses power. This happened with the car in the garage sitting still and not running so no vibration. Does anyone have any other suggestions. I am almost ready to uninstall and send them both back and try a different brand.

Did you ever get yours working?

you have the exact same problem I had in my F10. I also got sent a second unit and it didn't fix it. In the end I was told to send it back for a refund but i had some things come up and never got around to it lol.

today i thought i'd have another go, and what i did was modify the idrive extension harness to add a bridge between the male and female parts of it for the can signals (this way it wouldn't have to go through the p2000 and back down if you know what i mean). This resolved my issue where the idrive controller wouldn't work in the CIC interface, so I was finally able to select cd1 and get into the mr12volt screen. However once in there the idrive controller does nothing. it wont scroll or move - pressing it does nothing at all.

I've tried every dip switch combination i could think of (interestingly, if you set dip #2 to ON - which is what it says f01 / f10 - the mr12volt unit stops working entirely). I've checked continuity, everything looks good outside of the unit.

I'm fairly confident that it's the unit not understanding the CAN signals coming from the controller. It's interesting you are getting it in a 335 also. I'm hoping you've come up with some kind of fix, because i would really like to get this working.

[E46driver]

Just installed the P2000 unit into a 2011 E90 with CIC/HiFi no CD changer. Used all but the Loop wires and had to code in the CD changer with Bimmercode to get it to work. Upon firing up the car the first time with the Unit and taking it out for a drive. Everything worked flawlessly. Maps, Music, and Phone. But after parking the car back at home and leaving the car off for about 7 hours. I get back in and turn the car on to head to work. Carplay fired up as expected and maps loaded but no music is coming out of the speakers whether I hardwire the phone into the unit or use BT/WiFi carplay. Switched to radio to see if it was a speaker problem and nope the radio works fine and sound is working just not through the unit.

Anyone experience this issue and how did you resolve it?


**EDIT** RESOLVED.

After receiving a new unit from Mr. 12Volt which I have to mention had tremendously good customer service in terms of their quick responses and engagement with me in fixing the issue, I reinstalled the new unit and I believe that the issue simply came down to a faulty/broken MOST wire(Orange one). The audio now works as it should (I say this because there are still the common cracks from the speakers and lack of bass that others have been reporting). I will re-edit this post once I install the first unit into my buddy's e92 M3 with EPS with a new MOST cable from Mr. 12volt's website to see if it functions perfectly and that should identify the cable as the problem.

[smass]

Originally Posted by ahheadlock

Did you ever get yours working?

you have the exact same problem I had in my F10. I also got sent a second unit and it didn't fix it. In the end I was told to send it back for a refund but i had some things come up and never got around to it lol.

today i thought i'd have another go, and what i did was modify the idrive extension harness to add a bridge between the male and female parts of it for the can signals (this way it wouldn't have to go through the p2000 and back down if you know what i mean). This resolved my issue where the idrive controller wouldn't work in the CIC interface, so I was finally able to select cd1 and get into the mr12volt screen. However once in there the idrive controller does nothing. it wont scroll or move - pressing it does nothing at all.

I've tried every dip switch combination i could think of (interestingly, if you set dip #2 to ON - which is what it says f01 / f10 - the mr12volt unit stops working entirely). I've checked continuity, everything looks good outside of the unit.

I'm fairly confident that it's the unit not understanding the CAN signals coming from the controller. It's interesting you are getting it in a 335 also. I'm hoping you've come up with some kind of fix, because i would really like to get this working.

I am curious if your CIC is retrofitted. I had similar can bus issues for my retrofitted E90. Originally the controller can bus wiring ran to the back of the CIC which was too long. I moved them to the can bus wire in the console by the parking brake, a 6 inch run, and that fixed the odd behavior.

[GORDON.M3]

Originally Posted by smass

I am curious if your CIC is retrofitted. I had similar can bus issues for my retrofitted E90. Originally the controller can bus wiring ran to the back of the CIC which was too long. I moved them to the can bus wire in the console by the parking brake, a 6 inch run, and that fixed the odd behavior.

My CIC is retrofitted (non-iDrive originally), I ran the cable from the junction all the way to the screen first then daisy chained it to the CIC Controller from the middle of the center console. There was plenty of excess wire but I had no issues with my Mr12Volt.

[ahheadlock]

Originally Posted by smass

I am curious if your CIC is retrofitted. I had similar can bus issues for my retrofitted E90. Originally the controller can bus wiring ran to the back of the CIC which was too long. I moved them to the can bus wire in the console by the parking brake, a 6 inch run, and that fixed the odd behavior.

No i dont believe so, i'm not the first owner of the car so I cant say how it shipped from the factory - but i'm pretty sure this model year (late 2012 build) came with CIC

[Tony B]

Am I doing something wrong?
Is there a setting somewhere that I need to change?

For my system to work, each time I get into the car I have to do the following:

1. Start-up my phone’s mobile hotspot
2. Start-up MLink
3. Unlock Android Auto on the phone
4. Select CDC on the iDrive controller
5. Press the “on/off/volume” button

I can live with 4 and 5, but surely 1 to 3 could be automated on acquiring the Bluetooth signal?

Am I missing something?

[tdott]

Originally Posted by Tony B

Am I doing something wrong?
Is there a setting somewhere that I need to change?

For my system to work, each time I get into the car I have to do the following:

1. Start-up my phone’s mobile hotspot
2. Start-up MLink
3. Unlock Android Auto on the phone
4. Select CDC on the iDrive controller
5. Press the “on/off/volume” button

I can live with 4 and 5, but surely 1 to 3 could be automated on acquiring the Bluetooth signal?

Am I missing something?

Are you using the Mr.12Volt unit? No hotspot is required for Android Auto, also M-Link is not required, I've never used that. Sounds you might be talking about one of those full android systems.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by E46driver

Just installed the P2000 unit into a 2011 E90 with CIC/HiFi no CD changer. Used all but the Loop wires and had to code in the CD changer with Bimmercode to get it to work. Upon firing up the car the first time with the Unit and taking it out for a drive. Everything worked flawlessly. Maps, Music, and Phone. But after parking the car back at home and leaving the car off for about 7 hours. I get back in and turn the car on to head to work. Carplay fired up as expected and maps loaded but no music is coming out of the speakers whether I hardwire the phone into the unit or use BT/WiFi carplay. Switched to radio to see if it was a speaker problem and nope the radio works fine and sound is working just not through the unit.

Anyone experience this issue and how did you resolve it?

I've had this happen a bunch of times, and you can work around it, but I would like to see it fixed.

Easiest approach is to go back to CIC radio before you shut the car off. (Just hit the radio button on the idrive controller). This seems to prevent it from happening. Just hit the cd button on the idrive controller once the car starts and idrive has finished booting up and go to the mr12volt and you should be good to go.

If you've already gotten into the state where theres no audio in carplay, then from your iphone disable and re-enable wifi, which will restart the carplay connection process. It should work just fine after that.

This whole problem seems like some sort of race condition if the mr12volt is left as the active audio source when the car is first turned on. I just make it a habit to go back to CIC radio before I shut the car off, and I don't have any issues.

[E46driver]

Originally Posted by drwankel

I've had this happen a bunch of times, and you can work around it, but I would like to see it fixed.

Easiest approach is to go back to CIC radio before you shut the car off. (Just hit the radio button on the idrive controller). This seems to prevent it from happening. Just hit the cd button on the idrive controller once the car starts and idrive has finished booting up and go to the mr12volt and you should be good to go.

If you've already gotten into the state where theres no audio in carplay, then from your iphone disable and re-enable wifi, which will restart the carplay connection process. It should work just fine after that.

This whole problem seems like some sort of race condition if the mr12volt is left as the active audio source when the car is first turned on. I just make it a habit to go back to CIC radio before I shut the car off, and I don't have any issues.

Wow. So there isn't a mechanically or software fix to actually make it work on Q?

[E46driver]

Also drwankel is your car configured the same as mine? CIC,HiFi sound, and no Cd changer?

[Tony B]

Originally Posted by tdott

Are you using the Mr.12Volt unit? No hotspot is required for Android Auto, also M-Link is not required, I've never used that. Sounds you might be talking about one of those full android systems.

It is definitely the P2000DSP unit...not one of the other systems!

If it only needs BT and AA, and no hotspot, I wish someone could explain how to configure everything to work this way.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by E46driver

Also drwankel is your car configured the same as mine? CIC,HiFi sound, and no Cd changer?

Yes, my system is the same.

Just a guess, but I think its likely related to some sort of MOST initialization error. Basically the P2000 boots and starts sending a signal before the CIC is finished booting, and something is out of whack. If this is the case, some sort of a soft delay of the most signal during boot would be helpful.

This has been a small issue that can easily be worked around, so I haven't brought this up with support yet.

[E46driver]

Originally Posted by drwankel

Yes, my system is the same.

Just a guess, but I think its likely related to some sort of MOST initialization error. Basically the P2000 boots and starts sending a signal before the CIC is finished booting, and something is out of whack. If this is the case, some sort of a soft delay of the most signal during boot would be helpful.

This has been a small issue that can easily be worked around, so I haven't brought this up with support yet.

I've been attempting to do what your suggesting but the audio never comes back for it now.

How did you wire the MOST to the HU

[peteleun]

anyone manage to disable voice command on a ccc system? cant seem to get the steering wheel button to work with just Siri. Both Siri and BMW voice command kicks in

[richard_tricky]

Originally Posted by peteleun

anyone manage to disable voice command on a ccc system? cant seem to get the steering wheel button to work with just Siri. Both Siri and BMW voice command kicks in

Ive also been trying to get this to work, looked at it with Pro tool and when you go to code it out, it wants to codd out 3 modules. I backed off at that point.

Im also having microphone issues, the call quality on carplay or the mic in general is shocking.

as much as i like having car play the limitations on the unit annoy me. im thinking of selling mine. (its a CCC p2000 dsp variant)

I use the oem bluetooth for calls as the carplay one is so bad, but when you are on that you have no access to thh carplay unit as the OEM call takes over the screen. so if your using satnav at that point and a call comes in you cant see your directions any more until the call ends.

also asking siri to make a call always uses the carplay mic. but incomming calls, you can change to the oem system as default.

The voice button also is annoying.

Sound quality on carplay is good. but its no better than the Denison 500sbt unit i had in before. i left that in on purpose (disconnected) just incase the p2000 doesent work out.

[peteleun]

Originally Posted by richard_tricky

Ive also been trying to get this to work, looked at it with Pro tool and when you go to code it out, it wants to codd out 3 modules. I backed off at that point.

Im also having microphone issues, the call quality on carplay or the mic in general is shocking.

as much as i like having car play the limitations on the unit annoy me. im thinking of selling mine. (its a CCC p2000 dsp variant)

I use the oem bluetooth for calls as the carplay one is so bad, but when you are on that you have no access to thh carplay unit as the OEM call takes over the screen. so if your using satnav at that point and a call comes in you cant see your directions any more until the call ends.

also asking siri to make a call always uses the carplay mic. but incomming calls, you can change to the oem system as default.

The voice button also is annoying.

Sound quality on carplay is good. but its no better than the Denison 500sbt unit i had in before. i left that in on purpose (disconnected) just incase the p2000 doesent work out.

Thanks for the response.. I just got it installed and your comments are spot on.. and thanks for the feedback on the coding part.. its a shame the steering wheel button wouldn't work properly on ccc unit, you would think they at least would have done some testing or research that the BMW VA cant be coded out on ccc units.

[Tony B]

Originally Posted by Tony B

It is definitely the P2000DSP unit...not one of the other systems!

If it only needs BT and AA, and no hotspot, I wish someone could explain how to configure everything to work this way.

I asked the question of Mr12Volt support, and this is their response:
"for mirroring, a hotspot is always needed"

So if you are achieving mirroring without a hotspot, please advise!

[Tony B]

Originally Posted by Tony B

I asked the question of Mr12Volt support, and this is their response:
"for mirroring, a hotspot is always needed"

So if you are achieving mirroring without a hotspot, please advise!

I have just had another message from support, with more clarification....

The hotspot is only required for Android.

Big miss...

[netcsk]

Originally Posted by peteleun

Thanks for the response.. I just got it installed and your comments are spot on.. and thanks for the feedback on the coding part.. its a shame the steering wheel button wouldn't work properly on ccc unit, you would think they at least would have done some testing or research that the BMW VA cant be coded out on ccc units.

It works fine on my CCC unit, but my factory voice assistant broke a long time ago with an improperly applied update. So it does work if you manage to code out the factory voice. Unfortunately I can't help there.

[mwall744]

Thanks to the tips in this thread, I was able to install my P2000 unit in just under 2 hours today. I'm really happy with the result, it sounds great (professional hi-fi option) and I was pleased that it worked the first time I started it up. A couple tips for those considering: you'll need a T20 and T10 s Torx drivers, an 8mm socket, Philips head screw driver, as well as a decent set of trim removal tools (~$15 on Amazon).

I ended up tucking the Mr12Volt unit under the passenger footwell, as others in the thread have done. In order to do this, I had to completely pull out the LVDS cable, which is different than the installation video shows. It's a little tight, but I had luck getting the connector through on the drivers side and pulling the cable through the middle of the IP opening, under the center speaker. It was a bit tight getting the head unit back in place, but I was able to tuck most things on the passenger side of the cavity.

Overall, the look and responsiveness of the system was better than expected. Wireless Apple Carplay worked right away. Good luck to those taking this on, it feels great to bring the tech up to date, especially since the E90's looks are so timeless.