Official S65 Bearing Specification/Clearance Wiki

[B-52Gunner]

I've been looking at a large number of different brands of 0W40 oils - I am by no means an expert, but based on what I can gather it appears the M1 0W40 is an excellent oil for the money. If you drive your car hard or track it, the Redline OW40 seems to be a better choice due to the fact it appears to have a higher ester content (no specific numbers). I'm just curious to see if other members have been looking in to this and have come up with similar opinions. I have been to numerous other oil specific sites and manufacturer sites gathering info. it gets pretty crazy regarding different testing formats and so forth, but all in all it's pretty interesting stuff.

[FogCityM3]

I've been seriously considering this option as well, particularly as both a street and occasional track oil for the Northern CA climate. Good viscocity index, better than tws cold and appropriate for CA climates and better than M1 for hot viscocity.

Originally Posted by B-52Gunner

I've been looking at a large number of different brands of 0W40 oils - I am by no means an expert, but based on what I can gather it appears the M1 0W40 is an excellent oil for the money. If you drive your car hard or track it, the Redline OW40 seems to be a better choice due to the fact it appears to have a higher ester content (no specific numbers). I'm just curious to see if other members have been looking in to this and have come up with similar opinions. I have been to numerous other oil specific sites and manufacturer sites gathering info. it gets pretty crazy regarding different testing formats and so forth, but all in all it's pretty interesting stuff.

[swamp2]

Originally Posted by kawasaki00

We do this every day, we design, test and make almost everyone of our own parts. The parts we do not make such as bearings and valve springs we design in house and have other manufacturers make them for us. I cant get into too many details but alot of the latest and greatest things you see on performance cars (production) is passed down from our r&d department.

We do everything on our complex that you just stated you doubt anyone does.

Thanks, that is great to know. Many folks here are keeping a low profile so it is hard to know...

[lsmkr01]

[QUOTE=W///;14781291][QUOTE=kawasaki00;14781279][QUOTE=lsmkr01;14780415]I wonder what the purpose of his visit was...
QUOTE]

Originally Posted by B767capt

If they ask... I'm not running M1, nor does my car have a tune, or is dropped with aftermarket springs.

M1 0W-40 is okay to use with new BMW oil guidlines. I'll be swapping very soon.

[4corners]

JUST changed my oil last week with TWS 10-60. Sending in an oil sample to BS. Picked up two quarts of M1 0-40 from Autozone yesterday for $7 and change a piece. I'll top up with the M1 until the next oil change and see where the consensus is then.

0-40 + 10-60 = 0-60? (joke)

[aus]

Originally Posted by 4corners

JUST changed my oil last week with TWS 10-60. Sending in an oil sample to BS. Picked up two quarts of M1 0-40 from Autozone yesterday for $7 and change a piece. I'll top up with the M1 until the next oil change and see where the consensus is then.

0-40 + 10-60 = 0-60? (joke)

Get the Mobil 1 at Walmart. It's like $25 for 5L bottle.
Most Walmarts now carry the 0W40.

.

[W///]

Originally Posted by aus

Get the Mobil 1 at Walmart. It's like $25 for 5L bottle.
Most Walmarts now carry the 0W40.

.

Just make sure it's the European Spec one. Some Walmarts only carry the "regular" one. Don't know how big of a difference it makes.

[speedaddictM3]

Is the 10w60 still required for track days or is a 40 weight oil good enough?

[VtecforV8]

Originally Posted by speedaddictM3

Is the 10w60 still required for track days or is a 40 weight oil good enough?

This^^^. Same question for 2 hour back road drives with a few redline runs.

[PandaM3]

Originally Posted by speedaddictM3

Is the 10w60 still required for track days or is a 40 weight oil good enough?

I'm no expert, but from what I am reading... the 10w60 shears down to a 40 weight

otoh something like Motul 300V 5w40/ 10w40 and Redline will stay stable at hot track temps... so since they have better cold starting flow for the rod bearings and offers better protection in hot temperature... those would be a better choice

[W///]

Guys, just because you switch to M1 0W-40 doesn't mean that you have to drive constantly under 3k RPM or something.

My oil temps act just like 10W60 did (although it heats up a little quicker). I take mine on mountain runs and didn't see crazy temps.

Now if you are tracking in the desert and seeing 260+F, then that might be another story. But for most of the guys here, it's perfectly fine.

[Leonardo629]

Just to clarify, there's only one M1 0W40 Euro, there's not a regular one.

Originally Posted by W///

Just make sure it's the European Spec one. Some Walmarts only carry the "regular" one. Don't know how big of a difference it makes.

[W///]

Originally Posted by Leonardo629

Just to clarify, there's only one M1 0W40 Euro, there's not a regular one.

So no difference between:


and

[Leonardo629]

no difference, Mobil1 only sells one 0W40 euro car formula

[kawasaki00]

The 5qt is the Walmart version.
The 5.1qt is the autozone/advance version.
It is still the same oil though.

[gatorfast]

Also they both say European car formula

[W///]

Originally Posted by gatorfast

Also they both say European car formula

Ah good call. Great to know, thanks guys.

[dreamspeed]

lol yah, Wal Mart is great for buying Mobil 1. I've been buying the 5w30 for my other cars from Wal Mart for a while now. Surprisingly they are even cheaper than Costco

[Z K]

Originally Posted by FogCityM3

I've been seriously considering this option as well, particularly as both a street and occasional track oil for the Northern CA climate. Good viscocity index, better than tws cold and appropriate for CA climates and better than M1 for hot viscocity.

I'm in SF and planning on mixing a few quarts of Redline 0w40 with Redline 10w60. Redline also make a 5w50 which looks like what you'd get anyway from mixing the two.

[aus]

Originally Posted by L4ces

As a follower of this thread and M3 owner let me say Swamp, you're healthy skepticism is appreciated. Kawasaki00, Regular guy, your knowledge and experience is appreciated (same for Bmwlvr, Malek and others). And those who just ask good questions (Img, aus, and others ) that I wish I knew to ask.

All of you are needed to help many if not most of us make informed decisions and get educated. Sometimes, things get a little touchy, but you guys responses in doubts and disagreements have been so far respectful. Some other threads have gotten out of hand. IMHO, this one has not. You all show that you have knowledge to share. So continue with healthy doubts, research and all that sh1t.

Well said. It wasn't always respectful here in the past.
We're lucky to have a lot of people here who look at things from different perspectives, and can explain their points in a way most of us can understand.

.

.

[HeartMD]

So basically to sum up my understanding of this situation. If one plans on keep this car for the long hall we have three options.
1) Chance it out and see if the engine grenades itself.
2) Go out and get a stroker ie: Dinan which has appropriate clearances
3) Change up to a less vicous oil such as mobil 0w40 and get bearings swapped out at roughtly 60-70k, while also sending out periodic oil samples which from what I have read checking for higher concentration of copper rather then lead?.

[4corners]

That's pretty close. My 86 E30 needed the timing belt every 60k. BMW recommended. Its a stretch to call bearings a maintenence item. And nit for everyone makes it more purplexing.