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      01-11-2018, 11:08 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slicer View Post
Look more closely. The jack has a 3" saddle height which is the point that needs to get under the car to lift it. I actually remove the rubber pad shown in the picture below to get under my jack point without ramps. I'm not aware of a jack with a lower saddle height. Further, no matter what jack I use (I have had others), I need the race ramps if I want to get to the center jack point. My car has about 3.5" of ground clearance. Please let me know if there is a floor jack in existence that is 3" tall across its whole length. Further - check out the pic below comparing the Compac to a Craftsman jack. I think a frame height of 5" is lower than the Craftsman and most other floor jacks. Lastly, I agree that with ramps you can use almost any jack to lift at the center jack point. In fact, I think I was able to use the craftsman jack in the pic below to lift my car. However, the Compac's extra length allows me to get under the car and still use the entire lever range. Plus it's a lot more sturdy and higher quality. Some might not care about that.

5 inch frame height. If all you are putting under the car is the saddle you are wasting your money on that jack. The Sunex/Arcan low profile jack looks significantly lower across its profile. I think some people here have them. Maybe someone could measure the frame height.

The question to me is whether there is any jack that will roll right under to the front center lift point. If going on ramps or planks, a lot of jacks work and you don’t need a super expensive long reach. My $59 HF aluminum jack works if you do that.

Last edited by pbonsalb; 01-11-2018 at 11:29 AM..
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      01-11-2018, 11:29 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
5 inch frame height. If all you are putting under the car is the saddle you are wasting your money on that jack. The Sunex/Arcan low profile jack looks significantly lower across its profile.
It sounds like you view the height of the jack is the only single point of consideration. What about quality, strength, safety, reliability?

The Sunex looks really low and like a great solution. I can't speak to the quality of that product since I have never laid hands on it. I can say that the Compac is the highest quality jack I have ever seen / used. To say it's a waste of money is hard to determine IMO.

I am not against cheap tools. I have two Harbor Freight tool chests that work well, sturdy, and cheap. I would feel like I was wasting my money to buy a Snap-on chest for my home use. However, I am willing to pay for a quality jack because I think it provides better performance, longevity and safety. It would suck to have a jack fail under any scenario. I have had the cheap jacks that don't last. I'm willing to pay more for that. You may not.
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      01-11-2018, 11:35 AM   #25
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Even with an expensive jack, I would use a second jack or blocks or jack stands before going under the car. I have a lift so I don’t use jacks as much anymore and if I am at the track changing wheels, I don’t need to go under the car. For me, the $59 HF aluminum jacks have been the best. Have 2 of them. Been using them for years. Also have a big 3 ton Michelin jack that was $79 and have used it for 10 years. I wouldn’t mind one of the sunex or arcan jacks due to the reasonable price long reach and low profile but have not bought one because I don’t really need it.
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      01-11-2018, 11:42 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Even with an expensive jack, I would use a second jack or blocks or jack stands before going under the car. I have a lift so I don’t use jacks as much anymore and if I am at the track changing wheels, I don’t need to go under the car. For me, the $59 HF aluminum jacks have been the best. Have 2 of them. Been using them for years. Also have a big 3 ton Michelin jack that was $79 and have used it for 10 years. I wouldn’t mind one of the sunex or arcan jacks due to the reasonable price long reach and low profile but have not bought one because I don’t really need it.
Cool. I 100% agree, I'm not willing to crawl under the car without jack stands for safety - no matter how good the jack is.
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      01-11-2018, 11:44 AM   #27
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I have this one and it works great.

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      01-11-2018, 12:02 PM   #28
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I think there are other considerations when choosing price point on jack IE: Ease of installation, use, service intervals, documented failures, weight, etc. would hope nobody is dull enough to go under a car unsupported no matter how expensive the jack.

Another "contender?" I'll throw in mix is Arcan XLT2. Only thing lacking is a rubber saddle IMO. But that's always up to owner. Oddly enough it's a small but important (to me at least) feature for jack to have. Bring on the hockey puck comments! :P
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      01-11-2018, 12:39 PM   #29
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Do you need a rubber saddle since the factory jack points are plastic and require an insert block, or in the case of the center one, is already rubber buffered? If using other places to jack from, like a suspension point, a rubber jack cover might be less likely to slip but I try not to jack in a way that slippage is likely. I have 2 jacks with rubber pads and 1 without and have found no difference in using them but I have no concerns about marring the underside of my car-it would be minimal and no one sees under there.
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      01-11-2018, 03:26 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazorpazorpfield View Post
I have this one and it works great.

This is the one I have - Omega MagicLift. I said white because of the handle bar. It's a 2 ton lift. It's a must to have a lift like this. I use it only once or twice a year.
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      01-11-2018, 03:44 PM   #31
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That omega is 0.25 inches lower than the sunex/arcan at the lowest point, at 2.5 inches. Since you have one what is the frame height 12 or 18 inches back from the center of the saddle?
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      01-11-2018, 08:32 PM   #32
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From the Essco Jackstand page on ReverseLogic's website (not yelling at you all, it's in all caps on the web page):

Quote:
ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS IN PAIRS. DO NOT SUPPORT YOUR CAR WITH ONE, THREE, OR FOUR JACK STANDS. USE WHEEL CHOCKS IN FRONT AND BEHIND THE WHEELS ON THE GROUND.
WTF w/not putting a car up on 4 jack stands. This is the first I've *ever* seen this. Anyone have any insight into this?
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      01-11-2018, 08:58 PM   #33
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It’s a warning for liability reasons. But a car is more stable on 4 stands than 1, 2 or 3. I am much more careful than when I was younger. It’s up to you what you do. Chances are you’ll be fine just using a hack and nothing else. But I don’t take the chances I used to.
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      01-15-2018, 06:06 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussiem3 View Post
This is the one I have - Omega MagicLift. I said white because of the handle bar. It's a 2 ton lift. It's a must to have a lift like this. I use it only once or twice a year.
Was looking at them; seems viable. Do you mind taking measure as Pbon said from center of saddle to where jack gets taller in height.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Do you need a rubber saddle since the factory jack points are plastic and require an insert block, or in the case of the center one, is already rubber buffered? If using other places to jack from, like a suspension point, a rubber jack cover might be less likely to slip but I try not to jack in a way that slippage is likely. I have 2 jacks with rubber pads and 1 without and have found no difference in using them but I have no concerns about marring the underside of my car-it would be minimal and no one sees under there.
Not going to discredit any of your validity to what you are saying. I would disagree with center jack point rubber from factory yes - but most likely way smaller in diameter then any jack saddle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
That omega is 0.25 inches lower than the sunex/arcan at the lowest point, at 2.5 inches. Since you have one what is the frame height 12 or 18 inches back from the center of the saddle?
Good call, would like to see if that info can be gathered from the owners who brought them into the convo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
From the Essco Jackstand page on ReverseLogic's website (not yelling at you all, it's in all caps on the web page):



WTF w/not putting a car up on 4 jack stands. This is the first I've *ever* seen this. Anyone have any insight into this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
It’s a warning for liability reasons. But a car is more stable on 4 stands than 1, 2 or 3. I am much more careful than when I was younger. It’s up to you what you do. Chances are you’ll be fine just using a hack and nothing else. But I don’t take the chances I used to.
Agreed probably liability. Think we all made mistakes when we were younger. That's why it's beneficial to share any knowledge here for safe wrenching. Always air on side of caution.
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      01-15-2018, 06:18 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
WTF w/not putting a car up on 4 jack stands. This is the first I've *ever* seen this. Anyone have any insight into this?
I’ve read and heard this many times before I believe the potential problem is that once you have the car on two stands (i.e., front or back) and lift the opposite end of the car to place the second paid of jackstands, the first pair could tip or the car could slide off of them. It does seem counterintuitive on first impression but I think it makes sense.
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      01-16-2018, 01:39 AM   #36
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anyone seen one of these bad boys yet?


https://mobiledistributorsupply.com/...ABEgJkm_D_BwE#
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      01-18-2018, 05:29 PM   #37
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Ordered the Arcan from NT, will post some feedback once I get a chance to use for a bit.
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      01-26-2018, 06:31 PM   #38
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UPS dropped off the rather large (100lb) box today. Surprisingly showed up relatively unscathed. Northern tool took order, and delivered promptly. Well packaged, and detailed instructions. Haven't used it yet on car, but pumps are smooth, as well as release. It's as low pro as you will find, but am still having doubts of reaching center point w/o having to raise car.

Some pics for those interested.
(Found a bolt/washer randomly in box) - Not sure if it was part of packaging, but shows no such parts in manual. Any ideas?





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      01-26-2018, 07:05 PM   #39
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Try it and let us know how many more inches you would need to avoid having to drive onto planks. As I recall the AC, at 37 inches frame length, is longer but it ramps up to 6 inches tall at the handle end and I can’t tell at what point that ramp up becomes an issue since the height increases gradually. The AC is also over $600.

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      01-29-2018, 12:41 PM   #40
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I had my 08 E90 M3 on my lift to change the oil few days ago and measured from the center jack point to where the front bumper cover turns up and it’s about 36 inches. None of these jacks are going to reach it while the tall end of the jack is in front of the bumper cover.

My car is lowered so I have less clearance than a stock car and would need to drive on planks in order to roll a jack under the car. I can use 2 jacks like the $59 HF 1.5 ton aluminum jacks, one on each front side jacking point, without needing to drive on planks. That is what I usually do if not using the lift.

Maybe one of these low profile jacks is low enough even at its tall end to roll under a stock height car, but I don’t know. I guess the low point is not the only place to be concerned about height if the goal is to get under from the front. The

Last edited by pbonsalb; 01-31-2018 at 07:09 AM.. Reason: M
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      01-31-2018, 06:11 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
I had my 08 E90 M3 on my lift to change the puma few days ago and measured from the center jack point to where the front bumper cover turns up and it’s about 36 inches. None of these jacks are going to reach it while the tall end of the jack is in front of the bumper cover.

My car is lowered so I have less clearance than a stock car and would need to drive on planks in order to roll a jack under the car. I can use 2 jacks like the $59 HF 1.5 ton aluminum jacks, one on each front side jacking point, without needing to drive on planks. That is what I usually do if not using the lift.

Maybe one of these low profile jacks is low enough even at its tall end to roll under a stock height car, but I don’t know. I guess the low point is not the only place to be concerned about height if the goal is to get under from the front. The
Exactly. Center jack point is pretty far back, so while the problem is not necessarily the front half of these already low jacks - it becomes an issue toward the handle.

Possible on a stock height car as you say, thats a guess. Its safe to say there needs to some height clearance / IE via ramps or 2 jacks to get under the front center point when lowered. Another reason I opted out of the AC route.

Don't think the rear will be as much of an issue.
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      01-31-2018, 07:13 AM   #42
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Be careful on the rear. On my 99M3, the subframe wraps around under the diff so I can lift from under it. On my 08M3, it does not and you don’t want to jack from diff itself because that puts the weight on the three diff bushings and bolts.
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      01-31-2018, 07:17 AM   #43
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Absolutely.

Look at the space right before the diff, which is actually the subframe. Safest way I'd say is block of wood in contact between there and jack saddle.
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      02-01-2018, 04:15 PM   #44
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you can safely jack from underneath the differential. i can understand how some would prefer not to. i was told it was safe by someone i trust, and i have done it several times without ill effect.
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