Buying a e92 M3 with 105k...

[patrick_mro]

Hi M3Post, this is my first thread on here, I have many on bfc. I have had a couple e36 M3's over the years and in the process of searching for a clean e46 I stumbled upon this alpine white 2009 M3 coupe with dct. I made my way to the dealer to check the car out and it was super clean showed very little wear especially considering the mileage/ age. The only thing that did concern me was the car idled rough it bounced around from 750 then dipped down to 550 rpms for a second. I assume the car had not been started for a couple days, anyways after 3-4 minutes the car shut off. Not sure if this is because the key proximity (dealer went into office with key) exceeded its limit, or if this car is just a sick puppy. Despite that, the car is overall very clean and I negotiated a deal with the dealer, and would like to hear some input from more knowledgeable people regarding whether to buy this car or keep the search going. Thanks!
here is a link: http://www.msportmotors.net/2009_BMW..._261093545.veh

[Biggus Dickus]

Obviously depends on the price but that engine doesn't seem to be in great shape. The car shouldn't just shut off even if the key is taken some distance away.

[vsix]

I would honestly suggest before you consider buying it, to get yourself a tool we all use here, called Carly ( former BMWhat ) It has an VIN check and pre owner driving habbit check aswell as coding and CEL readout & erasing.
Easy & super fast handling as the OBD2 adapter gets operated by your smartphone.

Please be careful with considering an rough running ///M, specially when you're on a budget!

Here's all money saving info you need to know to be 100% prepared as an future m ///M 3 E9x owner.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1245204

[greenflash]

Run, as fast as you can.

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by patrick_mro

anyways after 3-4 minutes the car shut off. Not sure if this is because the key proximity (dealer went into office with key) exceeded its limit, or if this car is just a sick puppy.

No car will ever shut off on its own without driver intervention, unless it ran out of gas, OR something seriously wrong with it. So to answer your question, something is wrong with it.

No such thing as key proximity unless it is equipped with comfort access. I walk away from my car into my house or a store with the ignition on (with passenger/s inside) and it's still running when I come back. So no, it is not that either.

[SlimE92]

Originally Posted by greenflash

Run, as fast as you can.

:

This. I have comfort access on my car and I can walk halfway across the world away from my car with the key in my pocket locking the doors and all without it turning off. Sounds like it might have a couple of hidden issues to it

[patrick_mro]

I just left a non-refundable deposit and was going to pick the car up next week. I looked into the carfax and it was fully serviced at a BMW dealership just a month ago.. What could cause the car to just shut off at idle?

[BimmerRookie]

Just a heads up OP, normally buying a car with 100k+ miles isn't unreasonable....but buying one of these takes way more consideration. I hope you have deep pockets, because repairs for this vehicle (especially on of that car's mileage) are still repairs on a what-once-was 70k vehicle. Just because it was serviced at a BMW dealership doesn't mean crap, good luck and let us know how it goes!

[MSteve5036]

never trust a car with the temp set to odd numbers

[kaede]

Car shutting down by itself is quite questionable... and you put a NON-REFUNDABLE deposit of how much? You need to do more research and protect yourself when buying a M3 for sure, and expect the usual things to go wrong potentially (Throttle body Actuators, Rod Bearing Changes [for peace of mind], etc.)

Personally, i will actually steer clear. Good Luck!

[SlimE92]

Originally Posted by kaede

Car shutting down by itself is quite questionable... and you put a NON-REFUNDABLE deposit of how much? You need to do more research and protect yourself when buying a M3 for sure, and expect the usual things to go wrong potentially (Throttle body Actuators, Rod Bearing Changes [for peace of mind], etc.)

Personally, i will actually steer clear. Good Luck!

This. Why would u put a down payment on it?? if it's turning off on its own brother I'm going to go out on a limb and say that OBVIOUSLY something is wrong with the car. I wish u luck op

[patrick_mro]

Originally Posted by kaede

Car shutting down by itself is quite questionable... and you put a NON-REFUNDABLE deposit of how much? You need to do more research and protect yourself when buying a M3 for sure, and expect the usual things to go wrong potentially (Throttle body Actuators, Rod Bearing Changes [for peace of mind], etc.)

Personally, i will actually steer clear. Good Luck!

I put the deposit down because I got a really good deal on the car, but it's a couple hours from me and I wasn't able to finish up paperwork while I was there. I am not worried about the actual deposit since if the car does turn out to be a POS when I go to pick it up in a couple days, I can add that money towards another car from the dealership, they had a 2008 M3 coupe with a little lower mileage 95k, I test drove that car and did not experience any issues with it, I just did not like the color, Melbourne red.

[GeorgeA]

See if it repeats the problem, if you're getting a very good deal you shouldn't worry too much. Any car can go bad honestly.

Change the rod bearings asap though.

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by vsix

I would honestly suggest before you consider buying it, to get yourself a tool we all use here, called Carly ( former BMWhat ) It has an VIN check and pre owner driving habbit check aswell as coding and CEL readout & erasing.
Easy & super fast handling as the OBD2 adapter gets operated by your smartphone.

Please be careful with considering an rough running ///M, specially when you're on a budget!

Here's all money saving info you need to know to be 100% prepared as an future m ///M 3 E9x owner.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1245204

When you say you can check previous owners' driving habits, what do you mean by this? All I can see is the average speed and km on various modules in the used car check feature. Hardly useful info unless all you're trying to see is whether the odometer has been tampered with.

[cmo_93]

I looked at a CPO one that did this when we let it idle and talked about it.

My research said it was the idle control valve or some other valve, that I can't remember now. Its a cheap fix.

It could be that...or it could be hot garbage.

[nholmes]

Find out of the IACV, TVA and rod bearings have been done.

If not, that's gonna cost you like $5,000-$7,000 not to mention other wear parts that may not have been serviced...
Radiator
Water pump
Thermostat
Belts
Etc

I bought a used one with 101,000 on it and spent $3500 replacing everything above at $0 in labor because I did it myself.

I also had an independent third party do a full PPI and a compression test on the motor.

Good luck!

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by nholmes

Find out of the IACV, TVA and rod bearings have been done.

If not, that's gonna cost you like $5,000-$7,000 not to mention other wear parts that may not have been serviced...
Radiator
Water pump
Thermostat
Belts
Etc

I bought a used one with 101,000 on it and spent $3500 replacing everything above at $0 in labor because I did it myself.

I also had an independent third party do a full PPI and a compression test on the motor.

Good luck!

Outside of the forums, rod bearings are not considered a routine maintenance item on these cars. Unless the previous owner happened to be a member on here or had a rod bearing failure, it is highly unlikely the bearings have ever been replaced. Probably worth doing for peace of mind though. The other stuff you mentioned may have been replaced at one point or another and would be worth looking for in the records.

OP, how much are you getting the car for? If it's anywhere near the $27k asking price I wouldn't touch it with a 10ft pole. It would have to be below $25k to be a "good deal." Maybe $23-24k? I would expect to put $3-5k into it to cover some of the things mentioned above. Maybe more if it needs things like tires and brakes or if you will be paying for labor. Do you have any extended warranty options at this mileage?

[azndrunk74]

You're buying a car that isn't running properly right off the bat. Why would you do that?

[nholmes]

Originally Posted by azndrunk74

You're buying a car that isn't running properly right off the bat. Why would you do that?

Yeah, there's that.

[SlimE92]

Originally Posted by azndrunk74

You're buying a car that isn't running properly right off the bat. Why would you do that?

Lol that's what I'm trying to figure out. Op must have gotten the car for 10 grand that he's willing to jump into a potential time bomb willingly.

[patrick_mro]

Originally Posted by azndrunk74

You're buying a car that isn't running properly right off the bat. Why would you do that?

The rest of the time the car was running fine, that was just what happened the first time the car was started in a days if not weeks. The car is cosmetically in perfect condition and had a bunch of recent maintenance, not sure of the specifics but I will call the dealership it was serviced at and ask. I have already ordered a Blackstone oil analysis kit and will send it a sample in as soon as it arrives, and that should reveal any potentially serious issues regarding the motors health. Also if when I go to pick the car up and its running like shit I obviously won't buy it, or have the dealer take care of it.

[nholmes]

Originally Posted by patrick_mro

I have already ordered a Blackstone oil analysis kit and will send it a sample in as soon as it arrives, and that should reveal any potentially serious issues regarding the motors health..

Unless they just changed the oil...

Also, Blackstone recommends you warm up the oil first FYI.

Good luck!