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11-24-2009, 08:08 PM | #45 | |
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11-24-2009, 09:17 PM | #46 | |
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Drives: F80 M3
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Location: Texas
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12-04-2009, 03:46 PM | #47 | |
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Although, I must tell that I just get 2 or 3 "hot laps", out of my slicks and, that's when brakes just get smoke out of them (Barcelona, for instance). Bottom line is, for me, the standard m3 is no racing car and, whenever you feel like going hard, it barely stands a chance. Mega-brakes will give you stopping distance and turn-in, but weight is always there. It will ruin your slicks, even with proper alignment. Weight rules here, and slicks are just not developed with the M3 weight considered. |
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12-05-2009, 12:45 PM | #48 | |
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You can have these cars setup with the perfect brakes, perfect suspension -- and once you master the car in that form and begin to push -- you will be scrubbing tires at braking and cornering (due to the weight). |
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12-06-2009, 08:57 AM | #49 |
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We are also having an interesting discussion about the size of rotor, caliper design, pads and cooling and their effect on braking over at bimmerfest. I know this is for the M Coupe but both EvoSport and Brembo them selves have gotten in the discussion. There is some great info. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=415429&page=2
I am really interested in the how your holes in the rotor are filling with with metal. My holes with dust but as soon as I wash the car the holes are empty again. We get our rotors hot too and he is a pic to evidence that..... The following is with Carbotech XP10pads and ATE superblue fluid and there was not even a bit of fade...
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12-11-2009, 03:39 PM | #50 | |
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I'm glad we observe the same items. Weight just plays down any other gadgets/actions you may take into consideration: alignment, brakes, tyre pressure... Brakes are not that bad in standard form. Proper brake fluid and pads will get the job done. Weight is the issue here (1,668 kilos in Europe) I believe the GTS has decreased weight and increased power (along with the brakes), but has never gone carbon-wise. The GTS is a track creature, not a road car. |
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01-04-2010, 01:59 PM | #52 | |
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FYI, I went through carbotech XP12s in the front in less than 2 track days (on PS2 street tires). Heavy car plus lots of power plus inadaquate cooling = brake problems. |
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01-04-2010, 06:02 PM | #53 | |
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Thanks, vz
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01-06-2010, 03:13 PM | #55 |
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01-06-2010, 07:44 PM | #56 |
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actually, a relatively earlier late apex is faster on a real racetrack, but that's not something you learn catchin a bitchin drift on xbox, yo!
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01-08-2010, 08:04 AM | #57 | |
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But it's hard to read written intent too, so I'll just assume we are having a beer and cutting up a bit. Besides, if we'd just been out on the track, you'd know I know what I'm talking about. By "relatively earlier" late apex, I mean a late apex that is geometrically earlier in the corner than the "typical" line taught at DE's. It's far more dangerous because you push the exit point right to the bumper, but it's much faster (although still a late apex technically). Of course, it also depends on the car (momentum or power), the importance of the following straight, and whether you are defending a position in a race (later apex opens the door for dive bombers). |
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01-13-2010, 11:01 PM | #59 |
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For what it's worth my best friend did the 2 day M school and at the end of the day the M3's (e92's) needed new rotors because of various failings, most warped. I understand warping occurs when you stay on them stopped and they're hot but the M5's, M6's and M Coupes did not have this issue. I haven't been on a track yet (will be doing DE's this spring in my area) so I don't know if this helps in anyway but I knew the info so I figured I share. Debate amongst yourselves.
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01-26-2010, 09:35 AM | #60 |
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Interesting to read what you are saying guys. I went to Monza recently and after three laps the fun was over. The whole front end was vibrating as if the wheels are going to drop off and second. I was really disappointed. I admit that Monza is heavy on brakes, but still disapponting.
So ok, does anyone know what is a proper compromise on this? I am not a track day fanatic, but i like to do it maybe couple of times a year. Like someone else mentioned, all of us have different opinions on this. I need a car for everyday use, first of all. Track days are enjoyable, but i dont need to break lap records, i just need some fun. Currently that fun is limited to 3 laps and I want to put some effort in extending that! Couple of questions: 1) yellow pagid - can it be used every day or is it mosly for track application? 2) are there any pads that can work reasonably, or is BBK the only solution? |
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01-26-2010, 04:19 PM | #61 |
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Track (high temperature) pads are best suited for track driving, and stock pads are not for track driving (as the manual states). That said, RS19 is actually not a bad pad to drive with on the street if you don't mind the noise. Modulation at cold temperature is not necessarily a game stopper with them--I thought it was fine. I tooled around with them for several weeks on the street because I got lazy. A more aggresive pad would be more binary. My 2 cents.
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01-26-2010, 04:45 PM | #62 | |
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Best dual purpose pad IMO. They are not going to be as good as a track pad, but much much better then the stock pads.
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02-16-2010, 03:34 PM | #65 | |
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02-18-2010, 07:10 AM | #66 | |
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I wasn't holding back. My top speed at the end of the back straight at VIR was over 140 (speedo). But, after that, the front pads were completely gone. I will be at VIR next week. Last edited by drivendriver; 02-18-2010 at 07:26 AM.. |
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