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      06-02-2012, 03:32 AM   #67
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Yep, front bumpers/hoods do get blasted with debris, as do the headlights. I even have a small rock chip/crack at the lower part of the windshield.

I should've clear-bra'd the entire front end. :I
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      06-02-2012, 12:50 PM   #68
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Although I really don't like clearbras... I must admit that in hindsight, it would not have been a bad idea.

On the other hand, I still feel that my car gets more debris when driving on the highway than on the track... You should see the quality if our roads here in the tri-state area!
...and for some reason, I mind the track scars much less than the daily driver ones....
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      06-02-2012, 12:54 PM   #69
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Going back to the original question, one of the main reasons why I am not really considering R-compound tires is because I feel that the car would really be subjected to much more stress and tear and wear with these. Bushings, springs, etc.... Would really take a beating IMO.
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      06-03-2012, 04:39 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTROIS View Post
Although I really don't like clearbras... I must admit that in hindsight, it would not have been a bad idea.

On the other hand, I still feel that my car gets more debris when driving on the highway than on the track... You should see the quality if our roads here in the tri-state area!
...and for some reason, I mind the track scars much less than the daily driver ones....
I agree.
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      06-03-2012, 05:24 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTROIS View Post
Going back to the original question, one of the main reasons why I am not really considering R-compound tires is because I feel that the car would really be subjected to much more stress and tear and wear with these. Bushings, springs, etc.... Would really take a beating IMO.
I've heard this opinion as well. But maybe a "mild" R comp like the Nitto NT01 is a good compromise. It sticks much better than a street tire, lasts much longer on track than a street tire, is cheaper than Michelin/Bridgestone/Pirelli street tires, and yet is somewhat forgiving and slides in a way that a BFG R1 or Hoosier probably does not.
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      06-03-2012, 05:36 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HREM3 View Post
Can anyone comment on how their car has held up to the wear? Do your front bumpers/hoods get blasted with debris?

Also, do you think all the tracking will have a substantially negative impact on resale value?

I have 35k miles on my car, no track days, the car looks brand new as I've kept really good care of it. I'd like to get into tracking and use my car. I'm afraid of things getting beat up badly.
Definitely paint chips on leading edge of hood and hot rubber marks all over front and sides of car. Paint chips occur at places like NJMP where there's loose sand and fine gravel about.

Once you start tracking, though, you typically love it so much that you don't care about the little blemishes. They're badges of honor, and much more tolerable than a parking-lot ding. You just become so happy with the car on the track that you don't pay attention. You feel that you're in some ways experiencing your car for the first time.
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      06-11-2012, 10:17 AM   #73
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Wear item...

The seal on my oil cap has degraded. It routinely dribbles oil now, whereas it it didn't before...
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      06-11-2012, 10:28 AM   #74
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That seal is pretty pathetic even for street driving.
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      06-11-2012, 10:39 AM   #75
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My car hasn't had "long term" track use yet, but so far so good. Just replaced the pads and fluid/ss lines and pulled the front pins and it drove great on track. I bought KW CS to make it quicker and more fun to drive on track, but it is not at all a necessary mod. I personally think the M3 needs at least some good street tires (AD08 or similar) if you drive hard too, it is heavy and powerful and overheats PS2's really fast. Driving in the instructor/advanced group at Barber I got the tires so greasy it became a slip-n-slide after only 10-15 minutes.

Are there upgraded oil cap seals? Mine too is beginning to leak after only 30k miles of street use and ~500 track miles.
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      06-19-2012, 11:15 PM   #76
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One more update. I replaced my front hub assemblies (wheel bearings) because I was having some nasty pad knockback on the track. It worked!
Everything else is still running strong.
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      06-21-2012, 06:30 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyBobby View Post
One more update. I replaced my front hub assemblies (wheel bearings) because I was having some nasty pad knockback on the track. It worked!
Everything else is still running strong.
Miles?
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      06-22-2012, 11:00 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyBobby View Post
One more update. I replaced my front hub assemblies (wheel bearings) because I was having some nasty pad knockback on the track. It worked!
Everything else is still running strong.
Miles?
36k
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      06-22-2012, 11:26 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porschefile View Post
My car hasn't had "long term" track use yet, but so far so good. Just replaced the pads and fluid/ss lines and pulled the front pins and it drove great on track. I bought KW CS to make it quicker and more fun to drive on track, but it is not at all a necessary mod. I personally think the M3 needs at least some good street tires (AD08 or similar) if you drive hard too, it is heavy and powerful and overheats PS2's really fast. Driving in the instructor/advanced group at Barber I got the tires so greasy it became a slip-n-slide after only 10-15 minutes.

Are there upgraded oil cap seals? Mine too is beginning to leak after only 30k miles of street use and ~500 track miles.
Sounds a bit ghetto, but always used two stock gaskets on my e36. They still had to be replaced eventually, but the interval was MUCH longer.
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      06-22-2012, 12:04 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo8765 View Post
Sounds a bit ghetto, but always used two stock gaskets on my e36. They still had to be replaced eventually, but the interval was MUCH longer.
I'll try that. I just bent the metal clips on the cap in on my e36 M3 and it seemed to seal okay, but I think this one is a little different design.
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      06-22-2012, 12:07 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyBobby View Post
36k
Wow. That's pretty quick wear or they were crap right out of the box.

Thanks!
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      06-22-2012, 10:00 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyBobby View Post
36k
Wow. That's pretty quick wear or they were crap right out of the box.

Thanks!
It sounds reasonable to me. 2 track seasons on r-comps with full suspension at full weight.
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      06-25-2012, 10:52 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyBobby View Post
It sounds reasonable to me. 2 track seasons on r-comps with full suspension at full weight.
For comparison, I changed the E46M3 wheel bearings at 75k miles (and 8 sets of tires). Stock weight, instructor level driving usage. Granted, it's not the heavyweight the E9x is, but still...
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      07-16-2012, 07:17 PM   #84
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Car had 25k on the clock before first track day event.

Did 4 runs at 20 minute averages. Stock brakes, Toyo Proxe R888 tires, on 359M wheels.

1) Experienced Power steering fluid leak

2) Brake moaning/groaning now at low speeds

3) Engine seems to heat up faster than before? May need to replace the oil again (I had change the oil prior to track day.)

4) Hot rubber marks, and rock chips (badges of honor really)

5) suspension feels normal (ZCP)

6) Steering doesn't have any issues or no new groans/moans.


So the two things I noticed after are:

1) Brake moaning (stock pads/rotors/fluid)

2) and the enginer heating up to 220 degrees pretty quickly, and on a hot day, while driving slow or on the freeway at slow speeds, the temp gauge goes a little past the center 220 degree line? Is that normal? or do I need to change radiator fluid/oil/etc..
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      07-19-2012, 10:05 PM   #85
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Just had my first little hiccup with the ride. After waking up at 3:30 am (about 10 days ago) driving to road america, spending all day on track and then driving home (brutal day for the car), get a check engine light, reduced power and car won't go over 45 mph or 4500 rpm (weird symmetry). Pull over, turn car off, back on, finish drive home. Out of town for a week, come back and car will barely drive. CEL, limp mode, car's just hurting. Was freaking. Bring car in and apparently it's the brake booster. Car thinks I have no brakes and throws it in limp mode. All fixed and will test that as have a string of 3 track days in the next 3 consecutive Mondays. Fingers crossed. And yes, fixed under warranty
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      07-20-2012, 12:29 AM   #86
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good to know it was an easy fix. nice going three weeks in a row. i have my next on sunday. its been a couple months for me which seems like forever.
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      07-23-2012, 12:33 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klammer View Post
Just had my first little hiccup with the ride. After waking up at 3:30 am (about 10 days ago) driving to road america, spending all day on track and then driving home (brutal day for the car), get a check engine light, reduced power and car won't go over 45 mph or 4500 rpm (weird symmetry). Pull over, turn car off, back on, finish drive home. Out of town for a week, come back and car will barely drive. CEL, limp mode, car's just hurting. Was freaking. Bring car in and apparently it's the brake booster. Car thinks I have no brakes and throws it in limp mode. All fixed and will test that as have a string of 3 track days in the next 3 consecutive Mondays. Fingers crossed. And yes, fixed under warranty
The dealer didn't have any issues your Alcon's from a warranty standpoint?
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      07-23-2012, 10:23 AM   #88
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My p/s pump was groaning after an auto-x yesterday. It only did it in M Mode on the sport setting. I checked the fluid and it was foamy...probably time to change it.
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