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      09-17-2018, 04:36 PM   #111
pucsicsal
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Hi guys, any update on this OP?

I've also noticed this on my 2011 E92 M3, 25k miles.. It used to be *always* just below 210 unless I really pushed it, now it's always just above. Haven't had the chance to really push the car hard. Will report back.

I think something isn't right for OP.. that's too high, I think it's either an error with the measurement/sensor error, an error with the gauge, or something is causing the engine to run hotter than it should (assuming OP isn't driving like a hoonigan). I really want to know the outcome of this.
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      09-17-2018, 04:41 PM   #112
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G'day NashvegasR, any update on this? I'm hoping all is well with your car! NashvegasR Maybe get an oil analysis, and while they're at it have them check around/under the car and the oil cooler to make sure no damage? Those are the two things I'd do. Best of luck, Chris

Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvegasR View Post
Update. Goddamnit. This is not normal.

Btw - oil / filter change today w 10w-60 oil at dealer. This is driving normally. In traffic.

Something is up. Either incorrect reading or high temps. It was just below the mark between 210 and 300 and by time I snapped pic, dropped a bit.
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      09-17-2018, 10:13 PM   #113
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This is the same oil temperature I get when I hit the canyons and drive it hard. I'm running Castrol 10W-60. I've also seen similar temps with stop and go traffic while A/C is on.
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      09-18-2018, 12:46 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pucsicsal View Post
. It used to be *always* just below 210 unless I really pushed it, now it's always just above.
That's not really "wrong" though. Have you changed the type of oil you're using. I did notice the car running a little hotter after switching to the Twin Power oil that BMW is currently using. I likely will not be going back to it.
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      06-09-2019, 09:43 PM   #115
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I think I have a similar if not the same problem. I received a code for the Thermostat, forget the exact code. I changed the Thermostat and the Water pump. First I had a bunch of issues bleeding the car and had to order a Purge tool. After I purged the coolant system and filled it. I took the car for a ride and it warmed up normal and hung around the 210 Mark for about 5 min, then it slowly crept up and got over the 240 mark... I have tried every think at thing point. Also prior to changing the water pump and thermostat the car never acted this way. Even at high speeds and revs.
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      06-24-2019, 02:31 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merk View Post
I think I have a similar if not the same problem. I received a code for the Thermostat, forget the exact code. I changed the Thermostat and the Water pump. First I had a bunch of issues bleeding the car and had to order a Purge tool. After I purged the coolant system and filled it. I took the car for a ride and it warmed up normal and hung around the 210 Mark for about 5 min, then it slowly crept up and got over the 240 mark... I have tried every think at thing point. Also prior to changing the water pump and thermostat the car never acted this way. Even at high speeds and revs.
Did you figure out the problem? Mine is doing the same thing!
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      08-27-2019, 08:43 PM   #117
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I've been having a high temperature problem on my 2011 BMW M3 (E92) for the past two years. I was able to improve things by replacing the Engine Oil Cooler, but after some recent work at a dealership. I can't even use my air conditioner when the outside air temperature is >80 degrees, because the oil temperature spikes to 255 degrees Fahrenheit and I get the engine too hot warning. My car has over 215,000 miles on it, and I routinely run about ~235 degrees Fahrenheit. I never really drove this car crazy, and even when I did the oil temperature used to stay pegged around 210.
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      12-01-2019, 11:06 PM   #118
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For the past 80K miles my car's oil temp stayed always just touching the 210 mark, no matter if it's in the 50's or 100's, once warmed up that's where it stayed unless I'm going uphill pushing it.
For the past 2Km this has changed and it's now slowly creeping up past 210 and pretty much stays there, just like in the openings thread picture.
I have 136Km on my engine, did RB at 125Km, thermostat, water pump and temp sensor at 106Km, plugs and all other wear and tear stuff gets replace regularly. No problems with the car. Something changed and it seems to be from one day to the other, so I come to the conclusion it's not normal.
Checked everything obvious and no change.
The other thing is, in all the 5 years I own the car, the radiator fan has not once stayed on after turning the engine off, even if it's past 100 and with AC on, it never did. In the past two month the fan stayed on 5 times after turning the engine off, if I turn it back on and off after a few seconds the fan is off. If I let the fan run it's about 6-8min until it shuts off. I would think that my engine oil is indeed hotter that's why the fan stays on but it's not consistent, makes no sense.
I'm thinking maybe the fan management is messed up, could not find a module for that so probably part of the main ECU, maybe the oil sensor giving of false info, anybody ever change this one?
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      12-14-2019, 08:22 PM   #119
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hi folks. Reviving this thread as I'm seeing this issue as well. I've read through the entire thread but I've yet to see if ANYONE has a resolved case after having these higher temps.

Has anyone had a "resolved" scenario after.
1. Thermostat change
2. Coolant change/purge
3. radiator/oil cooler change (not upgraded/just oem)
4. other?
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      12-14-2019, 09:51 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvegasR View Post
Update. Goddamnit. This is not normal.

Btw - oil / filter change today w 10w-60 oil at dealer. This is driving normally. In traffic.

Something is up. Either incorrect reading or high temps. It was just below the mark between 210 and 300 and by time I snapped pic, dropped a bit.
My car has 173k miles.

And it has reached this same temperature in 85F weather. With stop and go driving. And I’ve been worried ever since.

It’s NOT normal. And as someone has just stated who has 215k miles. He’s getting similar issues. (He mentioned not being able to run A/c without getting the engine to hot indicator )

My belief is that it’s caused from worn main bearings. Worn enough that the oil cannot flow on the grooves in the Main bearings. ( just a theory ) And this is just me being a worry wart.

It could also be a bad oil cooler. Or damaged fins.

Maybe water pump, or radiator. Could a CSF radiator lower these engine oil temps? Since the gauge reading is a combination of oil temp + coolant temp! Has anyone purchased a CSF rad, and have instant results ? They say 20% cooler temps.. I know for a fact my radiator is original. So it is 12 years old, 173k miles of heat cycles. Maybe it’s time ?

Hopefully someone can find a solution

Last edited by bmwpower603; 12-15-2019 at 01:51 AM..
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      12-15-2019, 02:00 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwwebb View Post
I've been having a high temperature problem on my 2011 BMW M3 (E92) for the past two years. I was able to improve things by replacing the Engine Oil Cooler, but after some recent work at a dealership. I can't even use my air conditioner when the outside air temperature is >80 degrees, because the oil temperature spikes to 255 degrees Fahrenheit and I get the engine too hot warning. My car has over 215,000 miles on it, and I routinely run about ~235 degrees Fahrenheit. I never really drove this car crazy, and even when I did the oil temperature used to stay pegged around 210.
Have you ever replaced your radiator?

I see a lot of people recommending CSF radiator. They claim 20% cooler temps.
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      12-16-2019, 11:15 AM   #122
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Just been experiencing this on a 08' e92, w/only 38K miles. Other threads have said it's no biggie, but for testing purposes I'm going to (in order)
1. Flush/purge coolant.
2. change thermostat
3. change water pump
4. check/update/replace radiator/oil cooler. (OEM only)

and see where that takes us.

My only remaining concern based on forum research is that, it's happening to folks, only after a couple years of almost no change in oil temps.
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      12-16-2019, 01:39 PM   #123
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For me it warms up to about 170 pretty fast and then very slowly gets to about 200 and then doesn't move to 210 unless I either start to raise the RPMs over 5k or sit in traffic/idle. In backroad driving it got to maybe 225-230.
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      12-24-2019, 06:16 PM   #124
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Did all this. Same issue

Flush/purge coolant.
2. change thermostat
3. change water pump
4. check/update/replace radiator/oil cooler. (OEM only)
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      12-24-2019, 06:33 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akkando View Post
For me it warms up to about 170 pretty fast and then very slowly gets to about 200 and then doesn't move to 210 unless I either start to raise the RPMs over 5k or sit in traffic/idle. In backroad driving it got to maybe 225-230.
This sounds entirely normal and optimal.
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      12-24-2019, 07:18 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfdeacon88 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by akkando View Post
For me it warms up to about 170 pretty fast and then very slowly gets to about 200 and then doesn't move to 210 unless I either start to raise the RPMs over 5k or sit in traffic/idle. In backroad driving it got to maybe 225-230.
This sounds entirely normal and optimal.
I wonder why for me it will get to 200 but not 210 when I highway driving unless I start living in the higher rpm ranges? Seems like most get to 210 naturally.

Castrol 10w-60.

Going to try redline 5w50 next time, hoping for faster warm up but similar protection for street driving.
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      12-24-2019, 09:05 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akkando View Post
I wonder why for me it will get to 200 but not 210 when I highway driving unless I start living in the higher rpm ranges? Seems like most get to 210 naturally.

Castrol 10w-60.

Going to try redline 5w50 next time, hoping for faster warm up but similar protection for street driving.
You have a good car that’s why. I wouldn’t be complaining.

I’m starting to think that the built in oil t stat might be a problem for higher temp vehicles. (Only fix would be to replace the whole oil filter housing)

Or get a higher flow oil diverter valve( t stat)
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      12-25-2019, 12:32 AM   #128
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Another thing to consider is the oil pressure sending unit or sensor.

I recently had a temp fault code and though it was the thermostat but ended up being the coolant sensor as it had developed this crud/oxidation upon the sensor itself which gave erroneous readings.
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      12-25-2019, 01:24 AM   #129
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Driving today on freeway at above average speed (80mph-100mph) for about 45 mins. ambient temp 50f. Oil temp 206f, "coolant" temp according to the awron 170f. Radiator temp 135f with a sender in the drain port at the bottom of a csf rad. Car is happy as a clam. Dunno if that helps with temp exchange expectations. Merry Xmas.
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      12-25-2019, 11:06 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akkando View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by wfdeacon88 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by akkando View Post
For me it warms up to about 170 pretty fast and then very slowly gets to about 200 and then doesn't move to 210 unless I either start to raise the RPMs over 5k or sit in traffic/idle. In backroad driving it got to maybe 225-230.
This sounds entirely normal and optimal.
I wonder why for me it will get to 200 but not 210 when I highway driving unless I start living in the higher rpm ranges? Seems like most get to 210 naturally.

Castrol 10w-60.

Going to try redline 5w50 next time, hoping for faster warm up but similar protection for street driving.
Give LiquiMoly 10-60 a try, but your temperatures are totally normal and desirable. just under 210 under normal driving is what you want to see..

LM has been working flawless for me.. Personally, I wouldn't deviate from the 10-60 spec.
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      12-25-2019, 05:50 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sibhusz06 View Post
Another thing to consider is the oil pressure sending unit or sensor.

I recently had a temp fault code and though it was the thermostat but ended up being the coolant sensor as it had developed this crud/oxidation upon the sensor itself which gave erroneous readings.
When you say “oil sender unit” are you referring to the level sensor?

If there was an issue with that, or oil pressure sensor a fault code would be present.

Oil pressure sensor only monitors 1 thing. And that’s low oil pressure. It does not recognize To much oil pressure.
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      12-29-2019, 11:20 AM   #132
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after changing the thermostat/water pump/full purge of coolant. Still same issue. It's 45 degrees in socal in the mountains and went for a drive and any time I gave consistent load over 4000pm over a period of time, temperatures would start visibly spiking over 220. (all speeds. 40mph-100mph)

man.. this is so frustrating as no one seems to have a clear answer.
folks are saying it's normal but many folks experience this only after a couple years of it NEVER going over 210F. anyone that has a fix insight would be amazing.

I've thought about the radiator/oil cooler replacement but like I said, the last thing I want is for it not to work or to be a masking band aid (I prefer OEM,not upgrade) and then give up and have to sell the car.
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