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      11-03-2017, 10:49 AM   #45
Stronie
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Great Thread! I might get motivated and re-upload OP pics. If you click of the photo, then the upload person you can see the pics.
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      12-02-2017, 03:12 PM   #46
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please upload the pics. I need to do this asap.
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      12-04-2017, 06:19 PM   #47
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Just got done doing this job. I was dreading dropping the subframe, but really not as bad as I was thinking.

Do you guys think an alignment is needed after dropping the sub-frame?

I want to say no since I saw what looked to be plastic "alignment pins" for the subframe to slip on to where the front most k-member bolts attach to the frame.
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      12-05-2017, 06:53 AM   #48
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I think you probably do given the fine degree of an alignment. In any event you will get the before and after printout so you will see any changes.
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      12-08-2017, 05:38 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
I think you probably do given the fine degree of an alignment. In any event you will get the before and after printout so you will see any changes.
Definitely needs an alignment. I could tell the moment I got on the freeway, hahaha.


On another note, I just upgraded to the Bimmerworld motor mounts after blowing both my OEM mounts at the drag strip(I had a super gnar launch with tons of axle/wheel hop which resulted in tons of NVH after the run. No NVH before the run). Loving them! Very minimal NVH added and really only in the 800-1000rpm range.

Bonus pics of my blown mounts:



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      12-08-2017, 06:02 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razif View Post
Hate it when the pics on older threads just doesn't show anymore....
Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon@ View Post
it's because of god damn photobucket.
Load the add-on plugin for your browser.
Photobucket pics will load.
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      12-02-2018, 06:47 PM   #51
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Never done this before but would like to attempt it. It seems like I can perform this with one jack? I have 4 jackstands and tires to place under the sides of the car so I won't get crushed if there's a problem.
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      12-02-2018, 08:09 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedCardinal View Post
Never done this before but would like to attempt it. It seems like I can perform this with one jack? I have 4 jackstands and tires to place under the sides of the car so I won't get crushed if there's a problem.
Yeah, you will be fine.
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      01-26-2019, 08:33 AM   #53
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I did this a few weeks ago. Thanks to everyone that did this before and posted their experience. It made the work easier. I have done motor mounts on a few other cars and its definitely one of the easier mount replacement jobs.

The work is as described in this thread. I used an engine support bar and a floor jack to raise and support the engine. As far as tools, I used an XL double box end Gearwrench to break the top nuts loose and a standard size combination wrench to run them off. I couldn't get the ratcheting end of any Gearwrench engaged to the top nuts due to the mounting bracket casting, so, it was a bunch of 1/8th or less turns for me.

My original mounts looked as bad as some of the photos in here. I also had a very bad exhaust leak at the left donut gasket at the header, and I have speculated that the worn motor mounts caused the gasket failure due to the change in angle of the engine with the worn mounts.

I installed the Bimmerworld group-n type mounts. Idle NVH was pretty intense for a little while. Sometimes loosening the mount nuts and letting the car idle for a little while helps with initial NVH, but it did nothing here. Someone posted in this thread, or one of the others, that idle NVH decreases as mileage is put on. I would say that is my experience and it is not too bad currently. I have about 1,300 miles on the new mounts. During driving there are more mechanical engine sounds, and at certain cruising RPM's the rear view mirror vibrates....its funny. It's probably not tolerable for everyone, but its fine with me. If the idle speed were 750-800 there would be no idle NVH.

Thanks - Christian
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      07-21-2019, 07:13 AM   #54
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The very front subframe bolt on the driver side was weeping a little fluid shortly after loosening . Not enough to produce a single drop on the floor, but there it was nonetheless. Does anyone know if this is some type of bushing fluid? Itís thick and smells of gear oil in a way. Maybe the adjacent wishbone....?

Sorry if the photos are all sideways...but these are, of course, vertically oriented bolts.

Thanks !
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Last edited by CHE///MIST3; 07-21-2019 at 12:17 PM..
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      07-22-2019, 02:43 PM   #55
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Never did find out where that fluid came from, oh well, i'll keep an eye on it. The new mounts are in! ...for both the engine and manual transmission. What a difference. The car feels much more smooth, shifts are easier, little to no vibration and mechanically a bit quieter. It's a 2009 with 86,000 miles. Took me about 4 hours to do everything, but at least a 1/3 of that was fumbling around to take out the old motor mounts and fit the new ones in. I was so scared of backing out the subframe bolts, but that doesnt even matter, everything stays in place, regardless.

Engine mounts were super hard and collapsed by about 3/8", the transmission mounts were a bit hardened with age compared to the new ones.

As far as I can tell, I don't even need an alignment, so I got a bit lucky here. Very glad I did these, and thanks for the amazing DIY instructions from this thread !

GM
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      11-17-2019, 01:26 AM   #56
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Thx vor DIY.
I did it too with Vibra Technics (Street Version) Mounts.
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      11-17-2019, 02:37 AM   #57
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Has anyone had to replace a Vibratechnic engine mount yet? Or are these lifetime?
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      03-25-2020, 10:16 PM   #58
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Mine after 204000 miles, replaced them with Rein engine mounts they're made in Germany aswell
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