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05-05-2019, 09:20 AM | #1 |
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Clamp on test pipes - can't seem to plug a leaky area?
Hey guys and gals,
Just threw on a set of AA test pipes, everything went nice and smoothly, however I noticed the drivers side pipe, where everything meets and clamps, produces a bit of exhaust leak, and you can hear the air fluttering and sputtering. It's a very small leak, I'm under the car and have my hand at the area, but I just can't seem to find a way to clamp and have zero air coming thru the area. I tried rotating the clamp to either side and trying that but I still got a slight amount of air, which you can really hear when driving next to someone/past walls. https://store.activeautowerke.com/pr...x-m3-2008-2013 I added a link to the pipe just to show the style of clamps used, "TORCA" Anyone have any tips for getting a perfect seal for this job? Should I throw some exhaust tape on it? |
05-06-2019, 06:46 PM | #7 |
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Damn, I tried some exhaust paste like liqimoly's, no luck so far. Just tried getting a thick thick layer around the joint area with everything still on the car, am trying to avoid re-doing the whole job lol
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05-07-2019, 10:18 AM | #10 |
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Sealer plus band clamp (not band camp). Or I guess you're already using those?
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Last edited by DavidZ; 05-07-2019 at 10:32 AM.. |
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05-07-2019, 10:41 AM | #11 |
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The ones that come with most kits are usually fairly crappy.
I bought these ones and it fixed my leak issue. https://amzn.to/2VnzBSg Confirm what size is needed I just linked to the type of ones i used, forgot exactly what the sizes were. Here is where they usually leak
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05-07-2019, 07:39 PM | #12 |
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very very interesting stuff! thanks ^
The TORCA clamps active autowerke supplies were supposed to be good, I guess the wider clamps like the ones posted here are better maybe |
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05-08-2019, 11:17 AM | #15 |
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The Rogue engineering clamps come with the better style clamp
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05-08-2019, 11:35 AM | #16 |
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Yeah I wouldn't waste anymore time. If you don't have the means to weld it yourself, you don't have to take the whole car in. Mock them up perfectly score the adjoining pieces and remove them from the vehicle and take them to get welded. If you call them ahead most places will do them while you wait, you'll pay $80.
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05-08-2019, 12:42 PM | #17 |
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The exhaust shop actually welded mine on without removal from the car in about 10min, using a mirror for the top portion of the weld and a prybar to gain a small clearance. EZPZ.
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05-08-2019, 05:11 PM | #18 |
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I want to get TPs but my only hesitation is that welding is the best option (leaks), but it makes it impossible to go back to stock without having a full stock x pipe, which is hard to come by..
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05-08-2019, 10:16 PM | #19 |
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thankfully I do have a welder, although I am very bad.. Also thankfully, I grabbed an xpipe from someone local for 250 bucks, and chopped theirs up and kept my original one
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05-08-2019, 10:21 PM | #20 |
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Should I make a spot weld or anything with the pipes on the car? I guess I'm just worried that I will weld em not 100% perfectly and they might be off-length.
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05-18-2019, 01:32 AM | #21 |
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I have good clamps on my TPs and they leaked. Tightened the shit out of them and now they don’t leak enough for me to notice. I’m sure they still do if I look close enough, but I fix that by not looking.
No amount of clamping force is going to squeeze that driver’s side pipe into round. It would buckle and crush before then. Maybe goop of various forms would eliminate the leaks without welding. I haven’t tried. Good enough for me. |
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