Ohlins Road&track Review!!:))

[AzRiz]

I'm looking to get a set of Öhlins for my car next month too and am enjoying reading reviews, so thanks for those.

Is anyone running them with the standard sway bar end links? Is that the right thing to do? Just release the preload by undoing the sway bar clamps and re-torquing them once the end links are connected?

Also is anyone running them much lower than the recommended settings in the manual? I'm hoping to run zero arch gap all the way around so wondering if people have had good experience with that.
I believe that's about a 40mm drop on the front, and according to the manual, Öhlins recommend not going lower than about 35mm. I'm sure people have done it and been fine though?

Thanks.

[Redd]

Ohlins recommended height was about same as stock ZCP and works well for me. Not so high that it looks like an SUV, not so low that I have to buy a new lip every month.

[Obioban]

Originally Posted by AzRiz

I'm looking to get a set of Öhlins for my car next month too and am enjoying reading reviews, so thanks for those.

Is anyone running them with the standard sway bar end links? Is that the right thing to do? Just release the preload by undoing the sway bar clamps and re-torquing them once the end links are connected?

Also is anyone running them much lower than the recommended settings in the manual? I'm hoping to run zero arch gap all the way around so wondering if people have had good experience with that.
I believe that's about a 40mm drop on the front, and according to the manual, Öhlins recommend not going lower than about 35mm. I'm sure people have done it and been fine though?

Thanks.

You could remove the preload via ride height adjustment left/right, but there's no way you can properly corner balance without adjustable end links.

Not worse you can do for a cars dynamics than overly lower it. That's not particularly coilover specific-- it's taking it out of the functional range of the suspension geometry. Modern BMW geometry doesn't really like to be lowered much at all.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by gmx

I'd say ///Mobbin 's car should be pretty dialed in regarding frequencies, especially if everything else is set. How's the balance?

To me the balance feels great and the overall suspension setup feels dialed in to the point that I don't plan any more suspension changes (in the near future at least). That said I did not research wheel frequencies, wheel rates, etc. in coming up with this setup.

To provide a little more info on my car/setup:
-currently running 275/35R18 square Goodyear Supercar 3R tires
-Ground Control street camber plates
-2.7F -2R camber, 0 toe front, 2mm toe-in/side rear
-rear solid sub-frame bushings
-powerflex purple differential bushings
-front Dinan adjustable sway set to softest setting
-front Dinan end links
-rear OE sway with powerflex black mounts
-rear SPL end links
-rear ECS Tuning performance rear trailing arms
-Turner 90a motor mounts
And of course:
Ohlins R&T - stock valving with 448F/784R Swift springs

I agree I would not DD this setup but it does make for a very fun dual use weekend and track day car. That's exactly what I was aiming for and quite happy with where the car is at. I don't have a ton of street time on this setup yet though so we'll see.

For a more street focused car (2-3 days/week w some commuting) I might suggest sticking with stock motor mounts and the springs that come with the Ohlins kit. The rest of the mods add very little NVH and I'd probably still do them.

[//steve\\]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

To me the balance feels great and the overall suspension setup feels dialed in to the point that I don't plan any more suspension changes (in the near future at least). That said I did not research wheel frequencies, wheel rates, etc. in coming up with this setup.

To provide a little more info on my car/setup:
-currently running 275/35R18 square Goodyear Supercar 3R tires
-Ground Control street camber plates
-2.7F -2R camber, 0 toe front, 2mm toe-in/side rear
-rear solid sub-frame bushings
-powerflex purple differential bushings
-front Dinan adjustable sway set to softest setting
-front Dinan end links
-rear OE sway with powerflex black mounts
-rear SPL end links
-rear ECS Tuning performance rear trailing arms
-Turner 90a motor mounts
And of course:
Ohlins R&T - stock valving with 448F/784R Swift springs

I agree I would not DD this setup but it does make for a very fun dual use weekend and track day car. That's exactly what I was aiming for and quite happy with where the car is at. I don't have a ton of street time on this setup yet though so we'll see.

For a more street focused car (2-3 days/week w some commuting) I might suggest sticking with stock motor mounts and the springs that come with the Ohlins kit. The rest of the mods add very little NVH and I'd probably still do them.

hmmmm


I'm all over the place on what I think I should do. I was very happy with the Ohlins on my previous few S2000s with just a modest spring rate bump and so a similar setup is very appealing on the M3. In my head I had wanted to revalve for 550/800 but that's purely based on pulling numbers out of the air for what I've seen others use.

[Obioban]

Originally Posted by ///Mobbin

To me the balance feels great and the overall suspension setup feels dialed in to the point that I don't plan any more suspension changes (in the near future at least). That said I did not research wheel frequencies, wheel rates, etc. in coming up with this setup.

To provide a little more info on my car/setup:
-currently running 275/35R18 square Goodyear Supercar 3R tires
-Ground Control street camber plates
-2.7F -2R camber, 0 toe front, 2mm toe-in/side rear
-rear solid sub-frame bushings
-powerflex purple differential bushings
-front Dinan adjustable sway set to softest setting
-front Dinan end links
-rear OE sway with powerflex black mounts
-rear SPL end links
-rear ECS Tuning performance rear trailing arms
-Turner 90a motor mounts
And of course:
Ohlins R&T - stock valving with 448F/784R Swift springs

I agree I would not DD this setup but it does make for a very fun dual use weekend and track day car. That's exactly what I was aiming for and quite happy with where the car is at. I don't have a ton of street time on this setup yet though so we'll see.

For a more street focused car (2-3 days/week w some commuting) I might suggest sticking with stock motor mounts and the springs that come with the Ohlins kit. The rest of the mods add very little NVH and I'd probably still do them.

Those powerflex diff mounts are almost certainly adding some significant NHV, as well.

I'm a huge fan of rigidly mounted (solid/monoball) suspension components and stock mounted drivetrain components for dual purpose (track/weekend) cars. You can get a ton of increase in driving precision with minimal increased in NHV that way. Sole exception: shock mounts (aka a street camber plate, as you're running... or hybrids if they exist).

[Redd]

Does using PU sway bar bushings with stock sway bars increase the stiffness noticeably?

[wyatth]

^ I can't imagine sway bushings have much if any effect on the overall stiffness/roll.

[gmx]

Originally Posted by //steve\\

hmmmm


I'm all over the place on what I think I should do. I was very happy with the Ohlins on my previous few S2000s with just a modest spring rate bump and so a similar setup is very appealing on the M3. In my head I had wanted to revalve for 550/800 but that's purely based on pulling numbers out of the air for what I've seen others use.

What are you trying to accomplish with 550 front spring?
Have you spoken to Ohlins/Ohlins rebuilder about using that spring? Might be on the high side but still be able to get away with it.

I wonder if they're about to update the M kits for the E8x/E9x cars? They did on the non Ms to a 70nm front spring (400lbs):
https://3dmmotorsport.com/

Originally Posted by Obioban

Those powerflex diff mounts are almost certainly adding some significant NHV, as well.

I'm a huge fan of rigidly mounted (solid/monoball) suspension components and stock mounted drivetrain components for dual purpose (track/weekend) cars. You can get a ton of increase in driving precision with minimal increased in NHV that way. Sole exception: shock mounts (aka a street camber plate, as you're running... or hybrids if they exist).

Yeah I have this except for clevis top rear shock mounts which would be too much NVH and haven't fitted monoball RTABs yet. Don't really want to lower the subframe again and the fuel tank is in the way.
I went with powerflex black on the rear shock mount and NVH increase is minimal.
It's personal preference but I wouldn't do stiffer driveline mounts on a dual duty car. Maybe the differential has an argument and the 6MT for precision if it's like mixing a soup bowl. After of course, refreshing the shifter components first.

[Redd]

Originally Posted by gmx

I went with powerflex black on the rear shock mount and NVH increase is minimal.

Which one is the rear shock mount? Is it #15 here?

https://www.powerflex.co.uk/products...ab-2843/1.html

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by Redd

Does using PU sway bar bushings with stock sway bars increase the stiffness noticeably?

Originally Posted by wyatth

^ I can't imagine sway bushings have much if any effect on the overall stiffness/roll.

I changed so much at once I couldn't tell you but I imagine it wouldn't be felt if done in isolation anyway, just like beefing everything up. I also have AKG poly rear upper shock mount bushings that I forgot to mention, black in color but not sure what hardness, they came recommended by 3DM Motorsport with the Ohlins R&T kit.

EDIT: My rear poly upper shock mounts are AKG 95A - confirmed by Barry at 3DM.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Redd

Does using PU sway bar bushings with stock sway bars increase the stiffness noticeably?

One of my buddies done this mod and he said its actually much more comfortable compliant running a Poly mount compared to the OEM mount (it surprised me!)

[Obioban]

I find it rare that poly is the best option for... anything.

The exception being poly isolated monoballs.

[//steve\\]

[QUOTE=gmx;25794064]

Originally Posted by //steve\\

hmmmm


I'm all over the place on what I think I should do. I was very happy with the Ohlins on my previous few S2000s with just a modest spring rate bump and so a similar setup is very appealing on the M3. In my head I had wanted to revalve for 550/800 but that's purely based on pulling numbers out of the air for what I've seen others use.

What are you trying to accomplish with 550 front spring?
Have you spoken to Ohlins/Ohlins rebuilder about using that spring? Might be on the high side but still be able to get away with it.

I wonder if they're about to update the M kits for the E8x/E9x cars? They did on the non Ms to a 70nm front spring (400lbs):
https://3dmmotorsport.com/


At this point it's quite a bit of speculation. I wouldn't do 550 without revalving and I'd buy through 3DM to to take advantage of a free revalve. My car currently has Bilstein B16 which are 514/799 but progressive springs. I think I'm maybe looking for the car to feel a tad more sharp and due to my wheel specs want to ensure there is no rubbing.

Mobbin's post has me questioning all of it though. I shouldn't say never but it's highly highly unlikely I ever run anything beyond sticky street tires. (Currently on Cup2)

I know I don't need crazy high rates. At this point I'm just collecting data.

[gmx]

Originally Posted by Redd

Which one is the rear shock mount? Is it #15 here?

https://www.powerflex.co.uk/products...ab-2843/1.html

While powerflex sells them, I cannot find them on that list.
https://www.powerflex.co.uk/search.p...words=PFR5-416

I made a mistake, I'm actually using a monroe part which is far stiffer durometer than OEM but not as much as black powerflex I'd think.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1145344

Originally Posted by Obioban

I find it rare that poly is the best option for... anything.

The exception being poly isolated monoballs.

The OEM rubber binds. I could see that a poly is potentially better, or shave the existing OEM rubber bush.

[Redd]

Originally Posted by gmx

I made a mistake, I'm actually using a monroe part which is far stiffer durometer than OEM but not as much as black powerflex I'd think.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1145344

Do these fit E9x M3?

[gmx]

Don't know about EDC. For the rest, you'll notice the entire 3 series line uses the same part number. My Bilstein shaft+collar is even larger than OEM, so I just bored it a tiny bit.

[Dreamer99]

I was playing with the adjustments on my Ohlins today and it feels like I have 25 clicks in the front and 31 on the rears. Is this normal? The instructions give settings from 0-20 clicks. I'm assuming we adjust backwards from full stiff. Right now I'm at 15/15 and it feels a little firmer than stock comfort mode.

[//steve\\]

Originally Posted by Dreamer99

I was playing with the adjustments on my Ohlins today and it feels like I have 25 clicks in the front and 31 on the rears. Is this normal? The instructions give settings from 0-20 clicks. I'm assuming we adjust backwards from full stiff. Right now I'm at 15/15 and it feels a little firmer than stock comfort mode.

Yes, adjust backwards from stiff.

[cannga]

Originally Posted by Redd

Does using PU sway bar bushings with stock sway bars increase the stiffness noticeably?

Depending on what the stock bushing is. In my Turbo (and likely our M3 (?)) stock is softer rubber, and replacing this with an aftermarket PU bushing does increase stiffness. Maybe not significantly but definitely noticeably.

I did not believe this at first but has gone back and forth (stock rubber vs PU) in the Turbo a couple of times to confirm the difference.

[///Mobbin]

Originally Posted by Obioban

Those powerflex diff mounts are almost certainly adding some significant NHV, as well.

I'm a huge fan of rigidly mounted (solid/monoball) suspension components and stock mounted drivetrain components for dual purpose (track/weekend) cars. You can get a ton of increase in driving precision with minimal increased in NHV that way. Sole exception: shock mounts (aka a street camber plate, as you're running... or hybrids if they exist).

Sage advice here. I'm still trying to hone in my perfect dual purpose setup and thinking I may go back to stock engine mounts to minimize NVH on the street. The 90a engine mounts, even with an increased idle engine tune, seem just a bit much on the street. Not terrible and I'm sure some would be okay with them but think I would prefer OE. Going to swap them in a few weeks and see.

Still super happy with the Ohlins R&T for a dual purpose car.

[Dreamer99]

I've got the Ohlins R&T suspension with camber plates and wondering if the Dinan front sway bar would be a nice addition to this setup.