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02-20-2014, 04:45 PM | #45 |
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Dredging up an old thread but my car is now at the dealer. Brought it in for regularly scheduled service (oil change etc) and mentioned the idle issue. Had the car in at 7:30 am and just spoke with the SA and he indicated that they hope to have it back to me tomorrow.
No word, still trying to diagnose the issue. When I brought it in I asked the SA to see if the car was throwing any codes because a tech simply test driving the car would likely report back "unable to replicate". The shop is not that busy so I at least find it encouraging that they are holding my car this long to really dig into the problem...
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02-20-2014, 05:18 PM | #46 |
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I had this issue with bad gas being the reason.
Try to change your fill up location and go from there. Do a few full tanks at a different place and see if it gets resolved. I've posted some pre and post videos in another thread. This is the first thing to try before burning $. |
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02-20-2014, 05:26 PM | #47 |
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Thanks but I've been down this path already! Pretty much exclusively use the Shell station near my house for gas. Fearing bad gas I switched to a Chevron station a little further away but the issue continued, so I don't think it's the gas. Had a fellow on another forum suggest it might be the winter fuel formulation causing the problem but not sure why this would only have cropped up in my fourth winter owning the car!
As for burning $, the car is still under warranty until Oct '14 so I'd rather see if the dealer can resolve this at no out of pocket expense to me...
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02-20-2014, 08:30 PM | #48 |
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Might have to do with a software update. At least that was one of the options that was offered to me while asking around.
Coolant temp sensor could also have something to do with it. |
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02-20-2014, 08:36 PM | #49 |
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I was updated to 240e long ago but I suppose the software is a possibility.
As for the coolant temp sensor, also a possibility. Given that the idle drop I experience is sporadic I wanted the tech to check for codes. Simply taking it out for a test drive would likely find nothing. I am hoping they did in fact check to see if the car was throwing any codes and try to resolve. I've also read up on the Idle Control Value issues as a possible cause. Bottom line is it really is sporadic so I've never bother to take it in before now, when a regular service was due. Really I just want it resolved before the warranty expires in October!
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02-21-2014, 06:37 AM | #50 | |
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Since you are on warranty I'd take a stab at asking BMW to check everything: ICV, Coolant temp sens, throttle actuators, plugs, coils? I might have missed something but warranty is warranty) |
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02-21-2014, 09:05 AM | #52 |
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@ Sean05, if my dealer doesn't find anything then I guess a bottle of techron will be my plan B!! I've been using Chevron gas which has the techron in it. While I have not completely stalled while using Chevron gas, the idle still fluctuates on occasion...
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02-21-2014, 09:48 AM | #53 |
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Guess I'm going the techron route! SA just called, no fault codes being thrown by the car and they cannot replicate the issue, as I expected. He did ask my permission for the tech to take the car on an extended (8-10 miles) test drive to try and replicate the issue. I am not optimistic that they will find anything... Guess I better get busy researching extended warranties!
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02-23-2014, 08:32 PM | #54 |
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I've always been one to hope that shell (from the same station) had the best gas in my area, but after a month of very slight knocking for a second under certain engine loads, I switched to Chevron. 2 Tanks down and the issue seems to be gone. Always run 93 in the car too. Maybe I'll go back to Shell and see if it returns.
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04-12-2014, 02:26 PM | #55 |
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[I][QUOTE=SCL_///M3;11818443]Hi All,
[I]"This thing has been bugging me for quite some times now, that whenever I bring the car to a full stop and leave my foot on the brake, the RPM stays at around 750-800rpm for a second then starts to drop and settles at 500-550rpm, at which point I can feel a slight vibration through the steering wheel. If I lift my foot from the brake the PRM climbs back to 750-800rpm (will drop back to 500-550 when the brake is re-applied). The only time this does not happen is when I have the AC on. I have brought the car to my dealership and the tech told me that they couldn't find anything wrong with it, as the car does not throw any error code nor did they find any error code when they scanned the ECU. I believe the normal idle speed for e92 M3s should be around 750 rpm, right? Has anyone else experienced the same symptom? Any solutions? Btw, mine is a 2010 DCT. I have done the DCT software update back in 2011 (there was a recall on the software). Also, do you guys usually leave your foot on the brake at stoplights? Thanks." Have you found a solution for this problem? |
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04-13-2014, 07:44 PM | #56 |
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I'm not sure if this is a problem.
My 13' Comp Pack does the same but no vibrations. I have always wondered if the ECU is programed to prime the motor to move off once you release the brakes as you would for a manual car. 750-800 is a bit on the high side. I would call it 650-700rpm. When the AC Compressor starts churning, you should see a higher Idle at around 750-800rpm. |
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04-13-2014, 10:43 PM | #57 | |
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Trust me when I tell you that if you had the rough idle problem you would know it. There's absolutely no mistaking it. It was so bad in my car when I had it that my center rearview mirror would shake violently. I have no idea why all of the sudden it went away in my car but there's absolutely no mistaking it... |
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02-23-2016, 10:36 AM | #58 |
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Does anyone have any update on this? I have a 2011 M3 with a manual and the same exact problem occurs as described with the SMG's, except it's the clutch pedal. I usually start my car and let it run a min or two in the cold months and by the time I am ready to go the idle has dropped down from the normal 750 to around 500. The whole car seems to have a lot more vibration while idling at 500. As soon as I push my clutch in the idle climbs back up to 750. I'm sure that it's just a coincidence, but this wasn't happening until I brought it to the dealer a week or two back for a battery swap. I know if I bring it in I'm going to waste money for diagnostic fees. Anyone figure this out? I have gone through a couple of tanks of gas with no change.
I should also mention that this is completely independent of the brake pedal in my manual. |
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02-23-2016, 10:55 AM | #59 | |
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Does anyone have any further insight on this? I am guessing that the lack of thread activity means this isn't affecting most people at this point, which further reinforces the possibility that our cars adapt over time. Thanks for everyone's help, Jeremy |
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02-23-2016, 11:05 AM | #60 |
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I have a '13 e92 DCT. Mine idles around 500 but after I fill up and I'm stopped at a light my idles jump from 750 to around 300 and one time my car stalled lol. Not sure why it does this. Also, when in gear and stopped it idles at 500 and when I release the brake without pressing the accelerator it jumps to around 700.
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02-23-2016, 11:46 AM | #61 | |
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Seems like no one has been able to figure out why it's happening and why it randomly resolves for most people... |
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02-23-2016, 11:50 AM | #62 |
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I'm experiencing the same issue as well, on a 2011 with DCT. The idle dips down at stoplights and it feels like the car is going to stall. I'll take it out today and test out what it does when I pump the brakes at idle. For me, the issue seems to have started after I got the car back from the dealership after they looked at an "increased battery discharge" message I've been getting (even though the battery is fine and no apparent discharge happening.) I have an Evolve tune on the car, and I think that the diagnostics that they ran may have interfered with the tune, but will have to experiment and see if it's the brake issue that's causing it.
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02-23-2016, 12:29 PM | #63 |
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Sound like all of you had their batteries charged at the workshop unknowingly. In that case, the battery will be 100% full so that the car electronics decides not to charge the battery, thus needing lower RPM to just keep the engine running at idle.
You can watch the RPM change when you switch off the A/C, for example. With the A/C off the RPM drops by 100. After a few days the self-discharge or normal operations will get the battery to a low enough charging level such that the RPM needed to recharge it will be higher.
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02-23-2016, 01:50 PM | #64 | |
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My issue was exactly as you described, varying idle after fill-up. Occasionally stalled or forced the car to put itself into neutral (DCT trans.) Turned out to be the fuel tank breather valve. Dealer replaced under warranty and has been fine since...
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02-23-2016, 02:59 PM | #65 | ||
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I would like to believe that what Meyergru mentioned about the battery being fully charged is true, however, isn't that why we have to have our batteries registered and these cars have intelligent control of the alternator? I always thought that the alternator could be effectively disconnected from engine (primarily to reduce load during acceleration)? I wonder if there is something different about when the car is at idle. I've been driving with the new battery for about two weeks now. If discharging the battery through normal use is going to fix the problem then I can probably live with driving around with the A/C on for a little while. Otherwise, I'm sure that the dealership will just charge us to confirm that everything is "normal". |
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02-23-2016, 03:40 PM | #66 |
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Understood! OP's original thread is four years old so simply trying to point yidgyi in the right direction.... As for your issue, sound like mine. Point your dealer to the thread on the issue, that's what finally got my issue resolved.
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