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      07-16-2018, 10:32 AM   #23
EnVe46
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If youve read any of the spark plug threads, many people have issues removing the coil as its tight fitting and if you pull hard enough you can damage the coil. Thats why there are specific coil pack pullers. This could be the issue, but Im not the type to blast ones friend or mechanic, just know this does happen time to time.
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      07-16-2018, 10:55 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by EnVe46 View Post
If youve read any of the spark plug threads, many people have issues removing the coil as its tight fitting and if you pull hard enough you can damage the coil. Thats why there are specific coil pack pullers. This could be the issue, but Im not the type to blast ones friend or mechanic, just know this does happen time to time.
yup, i did read that big thread and in fact was going to attempt this on my one. But glad I deferred because in addition to getting those pullers (my friend is a former master tech and has the right equipment), my car has an aFe intake that was a slight pain to remove. I would have struggled a lot!

my friend felt bad when he found that the first coil error and reduced his labor cost because I was forced to get a new one at the dealer that day. So, that is why Ii trust him and it is a bummer that the second one failed.

Just got off the phone with FCP and they also said that it is a matter of time that the other coils fail and so better to consider replacing them all.

They were intrigued when I suggested why not replace the NGK spark plugs with the OEM and see if that fixes for the issue, and said that they could give me a refund of the NGK if that was indeed the case.

So, I am thinking of ordering a new OEM coil from ECS ($90) plus a full set of OEM sparks from FCP. And then after ensuring my tech friend does it properly including the vacuum, keep my fingers crossed.

Edit - two knowledgeable persons informed me that they are sure that the properly gapped spark plugs do not cause the coil to fail. So, I am going to follow what Scrippy suggested - double-check the gap of the existing ones and keep aside the plan to swap the NGK with OEMs for now. Ordered the OEM coil from ECS.

Last edited by BimmerRules!; 07-16-2018 at 02:18 PM..
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      07-16-2018, 12:30 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by BimmerRules! View Post
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Originally Posted by Scrippy View Post
-Did you gap the plugs properly?
-Did you vacuumed out the plug area before unscrewing?
-How did the coil pack look coloring wise, (black or starting to grey)?
Great questions, thanks!

1. My master did not gap the plugs but both he and FCP Euro informed that we need not as its been pre-gapped for the 2011 M3. I am all for checking it again but not sure if one needs any special equipment. Do you know?

Or, if OEM plugs will be sure to be pre-gapped, I can buy those instead and replace all the sparks again. That could save the trouble of the coils going bad.

2. I don't think he vacummed the plug area, but will request him to do it this time when he changes the other coil.

3. Turning greyish if I remember right but I didn't look @ it close. Will check tonight and keep you posted.

Please let me know your thoughts on point 1 as I am about to place the order thru FCP Euro (delivery by Wed, and I can drop the car off with my master tech buddy on Thur so that he does the work patiently on Friday.)

Thanks a lot!!
You are correct that the plugs SHOULD come gapped. The plugs also have cardboard cylinders protecting the electrode from drops when they are packaged in their individual boxes. I still just measure and if necessary gap mine. I find that they are not always spot on. It's also easy for someone to mess up the gap if they feed the new plug that's in a socket into its tube and they bang the electrode on the thread wall. I am not implying your service vendor did this but these are easy fixes if applicable and you could do it yourself. Just make sure you have a proper torque wrench for the plug tightening. Stripping one would be catastrophic! Also cleaning the coils off is good practice and it makes future service scrutiny easier to diagnose. Also the M3 is not as delicate as some members will have you believe. Take care of your car and it will be just fine.
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      07-16-2018, 01:08 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by BimmerRules! View Post

They were intrigued when I suggested why not replace the NGK spark plugs with the OEM and see if that fixes for the issue, and said that they could give me a refund of the NGK if that was indeed the case.

So, I am thinking of ordering a new OEM coil from ECS ($90) plus a full set of OEM sparks from FCP. And then after ensuring my tech friend does it properly including the vacuum, keep my fingers crossed.
NGK is the OEM manufacturer. The genuine bmw is the same one just in the bmw box.
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      07-17-2018, 01:50 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnVe46 View Post
If youve read any of the spark plug threads, many people have issues removing the coil as its tight fitting and if you pull hard enough you can damage the coil. Thats why there are specific coil pack pullers. This could be the issue, but Im not the type to blast ones friend or mechanic, just know this does happen time to time.
I didn't see this when I posted. I completely forgot about the puller because I have a BPM plug puller. You are probably correct! If they tried the coat hanger method, they may have pulled out at an extreme angle and damaged the coil tube.
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      07-18-2018, 05:20 AM   #28
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I didn't see this when I posted. I completely forgot about the puller because I have a BPM plug puller. You are probably correct! If they tried the coat hanger method, they may have pulled out at an extreme angle and damaged the coil tube.
Yeah...but I had mine done by a ex-master tech, and he had all the equipment + more. I think he overall spent less than 30 minutes in the replacment, even with taking time to remove my aFe intake and reinstalling it.

Problem was, it was a very busy Sat when he did at this shop and this 30 minutes actually took 1.5 hours because of constant interruption and roof being replaced on his garage.

So, this time around, I am planning to drop off the car on Thur so that he works on it on Friday when he is hopefully less busy. Plus, I plan to give him some of the suggestions a few of you had made so that he is aware of it.

Thanks!
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      07-18-2018, 08:05 AM   #29
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It's a relative easy job and the intake assembly has to come out. The hardest part is getting coil #4 and #8 which has the least amount of clearance by the firewall.
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      07-18-2018, 03:12 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerRules! View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrippy View Post
I didn't see this when I posted. I completely forgot about the puller because I have a BPM plug puller. You are probably correct! If they tried the coat hanger method, they may have pulled out at an extreme angle and damaged the coil tube.
Yeah...but I had mine done by a ex-master tech, and he had all the equipment + more. I think he overall spent less than 30 minutes in the replacment, even with taking time to remove my aFe intake and reinstalling it.

Problem was, it was a very busy Sat when he did at this shop and this 30 minutes actually took 1.5 hours because of constant interruption and roof being replaced on his garage.

So, this time around, I am planning to drop off the car on Thur so that he works on it on Friday when he is hopefully less busy. Plus, I plan to give him some of the suggestions a few of you had made so that he is aware of it.

Thanks!
Well good luck man! I hope it's a simple fix.
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      07-18-2018, 11:29 PM   #31
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Well good luck man! I hope it's a simple fix.
Thanks man!

My tech friend informed that he is going to be out this weekend with his kids, and so I am planning to search for a bimrs shop near me. Let me see what they say.

Appreciate it.
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      07-18-2018, 11:41 PM   #32
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It's a relative easy job and the intake assembly has to come out. The hardest part is getting coil #4 and #8 which has the least amount of clearance by the firewall.
I agree, in fact I was planning to the sparks myself but saw the DIY thread and realized that I don't have the right tools.

This is #7 that I need to replace and this is the last but one on the driver's side. Even if I get to do it, I still need to figure out how to deal with the faulty codes.

To be frank, I am in awe of my car for all the wonderful things that the previous owner had done and hope to keep it the same way for ever - with its exterior wrap, its BPM coding, Akra exhaust and aFe intake So, I am nervous about doing something that could screw up one thing or the other and leave me stranded as there is no reputable mechanic shop nearby.

Prepared to pay a bit more to someone who knows what they are doing and if it is a local, I will be glad that I gave them some business.

I scheduled an appointment this Friday with Shade Tree Garage, a long standing and reputed mechanic shop who are also involved with my NJ BMW CCA association. Will share what they say.

Thanks for the feedback!

Last edited by BimmerRules!; 07-20-2018 at 11:56 AM..
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      07-20-2018, 11:55 AM   #33
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Update -

Got the plug replaced @ Shade Tree Garage, one oft the reputed shops that also supports our local BMW CCA chapter. Great place and very professional!

From what I learnt from the tech who worked on my car:
- slightly surprised that coil had failed for a low mileage car but he has seen that happen.
- cannot tell by just viewing the coil (both of which btw look only mildly used) as sensors on top could have been the issue.
- checked the NGK plugs and said that its been pre-gapped and that its best to leave it the way it is.
- noticed a lot of debris/dirt where the coil goes and that he had cleanred it all out. That could have also played a role in this failure.
- if another coil goes, just replace the remaining 6.
- no issues of the oxygen sensor and car looks/run fantastic.

Delighted to drive the car back with its usual super power and smoothness.

So, i am going to check with my master-tech friend if he can check and clean out the other 7 and hopefully that will be all I need to do.

A minor thing I noticed when exiting the shop and when stopping @ the first few lights - a split second loss of power (as if car didn't have gas or was misfiring) when shifting at the low gears (1-2 and then 2-3). It happened a couple of times but then I entered the highway and didn't notice again even after exiting the highway and taking the local roads to home. Hoping that it was a temporary one at the initial stages because of the new coil. Fingers crossed.
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