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      09-17-2018, 08:04 PM   #6909
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after sleeping and thinking on it, i'm thinking dogbone is on to something. i may have cooked the fluid the last time when i was at laguna when these slicks were new, and didn't know it until now. i was probably overthinking it.
these ap's have a ton of J-hooks on the faces, so i'm skeptical it is gas build up. i'm going to start with the simplest approach and flush the fluid. i'm going to look into pressure bleeders more seriously so i can do this myself (its just me and the dogs when the mrs. beef is at work).

an yes, i did mean the ME20 pads. i'm not ready to write them off just yet, just need to figure out this issue.

another theory i had, (and i may still be overthinking this) was they apr bumper spats i installed were effectively directing air away from the wheel wells and the brakes were getting less air. i have the intent of running ducting to help with brake longevity anyways, so this wasn't initially a concern.
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      09-17-2018, 10:08 PM   #6910
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i'm going to look into pressure bleeders more seriously so i can do this myself (its just me and the dogs when the mrs. beef is at work).
Pressure bleeders make is a 1-beef job. Get one ASAP.
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      09-17-2018, 10:59 PM   #6911
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Do you guys have any recommendations for rear rotors on the e46? Currently have the OEM cross drilled ZCP ones but want to replace and keep these as spares. Was looking at the Stoptech Slotted ones, not sure if any good for the track.

Thanks fellas
OEM size? I have some of the StopTech slotted on the rears, paired with Cobalt XR2 race pads. They last a fairly long time but the brake balance is biased front, so they wear less.

I've been running OEM spec rotors up front (with the same XR2 pads) and they aren't holding up well at all. I'm going to an AP Racing BBK up front over the winter.
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Do you guys have any recommendations for rear rotors on the e46? Currently have the OEM cross drilled ZCP ones but want to replace and keep these as spares. Was looking at the Stoptech Slotted ones, not sure if any good for the track.

Thanks fellas
I use centric slotted.
Thanks. Yeah it would be OEM size for the rear. I heard the Stoptech slotted rotors are basically rebranded Centric? Not sure if this is true.

Might pick up a set and see how it goes. I run the AP Radical Kit up front with the J Hook rotors. Those things are beautiful. I wish they had a rear kit available with the new calipers.

If anyone has any other suggestions or experience for the rear, please share. Thanks
Centric owns stop tech. Just get a set of centric rear blanks and call it a day. Absolutely no benefit to their slotted rotor vs a blank other than for "looks"

Just my .02
You gotta look good!
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      09-17-2018, 11:12 PM   #6912
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motive bleeder and two bottles of SRF are on the way. this will be my first time using a bleeder. do you guys just suck the fluid out of the reservoir, overfill it with fresh fluid, then start bleeding it out?

ordered from FCPeuro. i'm willing to send back old SRF when the time comes. i won't do motor oil, but i can do a container of used liquid gold srf.
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      09-17-2018, 11:24 PM   #6913
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How many bottles of SRF are needed for a flush? I bought only one during the FCP Euro sale, do we need two?
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      09-17-2018, 11:28 PM   #6914
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How many bottles of SRF are needed for a flush? I bought only one during the FCP Euro sale, do we need two?
i was told one, but i figured i would get two just in case. in case i screw it up or something (likely). i'm going to try to use just one.
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      09-17-2018, 11:36 PM   #6915
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motive bleeder and two bottles of SRF are on the way. this will be my first time using a bleeder. do you guys just suck the fluid out of the reservoir, overfill it with fresh fluid, then start bleeding it out?
Yeah, clean turkey baster rinsed with new fluid is what I do. I then just top up the reservoir, add to the bleeder bottle, hang the bottle from the hood, and go nuts.
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      09-17-2018, 11:48 PM   #6916
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i was told one, but i figured i would get two just in case. in case i screw it up or something (likely). i'm going to try to use just one.
FWIW I run Project Mu G Four 335 fluid.
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      09-17-2018, 11:50 PM   #6917
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You could do the brake pump method if the catch bottle on the bleeder screw is above the caliper since air travels up. #science
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      09-17-2018, 11:53 PM   #6918
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You could do the brake pump method if the catch bottle on the bleeder screw is above the caliper since air travels up. #science
yea, but its just me. mrs. beef isn't going to want to do this when she comes home from work.
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      09-18-2018, 07:22 AM   #6919
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
motive bleeder and two bottles of SRF are on the way. this will be my first time using a bleeder. do you guys just suck the fluid out of the reservoir, overfill it with fresh fluid, then start bleeding it out?
Yeah, clean turkey baster rinsed with new fluid is what I do. I then just top up the reservoir, add to the bleeder bottle, hang the bottle from the hood, and go nuts.
I do that when I use a vacuum bleeder or do the 2 person method to lessen the time I have to hear my wife is blthcin' or my daughter is whining.

With a motive or pressure bleeder, there's really no reason to empty the bleeder.
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      09-18-2018, 09:47 AM   #6920
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...... this will be my first time using a bleeder. do you guys just suck the fluid out of the reservoir, overfill it with fresh fluid, then start bleeding it out?
For a complete flush, yes.
By removing as much as possible from the reservoir, the job is quicker and with less mixing of old & new fluids.

If I'm just doing a quick bleed after track days to freshen fluid at the caliper I don't fill the bleeder I just top up & pressurize the reservoir.
(keeping an eye on level as you go)
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      09-18-2018, 10:03 AM   #6921
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How many of you still have the front felt undertray? Mine is nearly destroyed which is why I think the front left bumper reflector popped off as it allowed the bumper to bend more.

I'm debating whether to replace it with the original parts or get one of the aluminum ones.
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      09-18-2018, 11:26 AM   #6922
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How many of you still have the front felt undertray? Mine is nearly destroyed which is why I think the front left bumper reflector popped off as it allowed the bumper to bend more.

I'm debating whether to replace it with the original parts or get one of the aluminum ones.
Mine fell apart after two sessions at Buttonwillow a couple of weeks ago. I ran the remaining sessions and the next day without a tray. Car got hot but didn't overheat (ambient temps were in the high 90's). I didn't really notice any aero issues either.

So I went ahead an ordered the aluminum tray from deansbimmer. That tray does not have the side "aero" pieces but I'm going to put a lip on so that shouldn't matter much.

Hoping it will be here before my next track day but I'll just go without if it's not. Temps should be much cooler at Sonoma later this month.
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      09-18-2018, 11:51 AM   #6923
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do you guys just suck the fluid out of the reservoir, overfill it with fresh fluid, then start bleeding it out?
Yes, exactly that. I've never put fluid in the powerbleeder, though at this point I've transitioned the 911 over to SRF too and so it wouldn't matter. But it isn't hard to monitor the reservoir, and I don't want to goop up the power bleeder.
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      09-18-2018, 11:53 AM   #6924
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How many bottles of SRF are needed for a flush? I bought only one during the FCP Euro sale, do we need two?
I've always bought 2 to be sure and left one on the shelf for next time. It's always nice to walk in the garage and see you have a full bottle of SRF. Makes a man feel rich.
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      09-18-2018, 12:01 PM   #6925
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I've always bought 2 to be sure and left one on the shelf for next time. It's always nice to walk in the garage and see you have a full bottle of SRF. Makes a man feel rich.
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      09-18-2018, 12:31 PM   #6926
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yea, but its just me. mrs. beef isn't going to want to do this when she comes home from work.
oops I forgot to say, since the bottle is above the caliper and air goes up, no need to pump pump, release, let out, close. You can just slowly pump out the fluid.
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      09-18-2018, 01:17 PM   #6927
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yea, but its just me. mrs. beef isn't going to want to do this when she comes home from work.
oops I forgot to say, since the bottle is above the caliper and air goes up, no need to pump pump, release, let out, close. You can just slowly pump out the fluid.
I think I would get frustrated doing that. Sounds like you have to pump a whole bunch and go back and forth. I'm not very experienced in bleeding brakes, so I'm going to take the easy route.
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      09-18-2018, 01:18 PM   #6928
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yea, but its just me. mrs. beef isn't going to want to do this when she comes home from work.
Another way to do it is to have your tubing from the bleeder screw go into a bottle filled with fluid, so it doesnt suck any air in. just pump and make sure the tank is filled and you dont run dry. (poor mans method of single person)

or I could just come over lol
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      09-18-2018, 01:32 PM   #6929
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I think I would get frustrated doing that. Sounds like you have to pump a whole bunch and go back and forth. I'm not very experienced in bleeding brakes, so I'm going to take the easy route.
bleeding you're only pumping out until you see no more air bubbles. now flushing will be a different story.
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      09-18-2018, 01:52 PM   #6930
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How many of you still have the front felt undertray? Mine is nearly destroyed which is why I think the front left bumper reflector popped off as it allowed the bumper to bend more.

I'm debating whether to replace it with the original parts or get one of the aluminum ones.
I got my felt from fcp euro and they were actually the best price after shipping was factored in. When it gets jacked up again, I'll be returning it for a free replacement as per their warranty.
I'm just a little bit hesitant with the aluminum... I was excited about it at first, but if it goes, it's a lot of metal ripping at a lot of things, and the metal isn't going to tear, the bumper and fender liners are.
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