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      11-13-2015, 06:07 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by calintexas View Post
Some good suggestions. The car I store is in a dryer and warmer climate, but the baking soda can't hurt. Closing the vents makes sense. A quick search produced some mixed information regarding dryer sheets. Still, they won't hurt anything.
How do you close the vents??
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      11-14-2015, 12:17 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by Mr. BMW View Post
How do you close the vents??
I think you just hit the re-circulation button and shut the car off?

Great write-up. Ill be doing this December 1st, and I do everything almost the same as you (maybe a couple extra/different steps). One thing I will be doing is clay-baring the car. This way, the whole time it's in storage for the winter I can take my time on a paint correction (compound, polish and wax).
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      11-16-2015, 03:08 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by Mr. BMW View Post
How do you close the vents??
Rotate the knob by each vent from the top position to the bottom. I think the top indicator is a line and the bottom a circle, but could be the other way.
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      11-16-2015, 03:10 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by |||||||||| View Post
I think you just hit the re-circulation button and shut the car off?

Great write-up. Ill be doing this December 1st, and I do everything almost the same as you (maybe a couple extra/different steps). One thing I will be doing is clay-baring the car. This way, the whole time it's in storage for the winter I can take my time on a paint correction (compound, polish and wax).
Could do an entire write up on paint correction one day. If doing it in winter, i guess just make sure the area you do it in is not freezing; paint will respond better.
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      11-16-2015, 06:46 PM   #93
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Thanks for the tips! Really appreciate this thread.
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      11-19-2015, 11:57 AM   #94
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So I bought my car about two months ago (9/20/15). It had about 10,800 miles on it. I got all the service records and the last oil change was 5/8/15 at 9,040 miles. I'm around 12,000 miles now and its been like 6 months since that oil change.

If I store my car in the next couple of weeks, do I need to change the oil?
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      11-19-2015, 12:04 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by Dr3wM3 View Post
So I bought my car about two months ago (9/20/15). It had about 10,800 miles on it. I got all the service records and the last oil change was 5/8/15 at 9,040 miles. I'm around 12,000 miles now and its been like 6 months since that oil change.

If I store my car in the next couple of weeks, do I need to change the oil?
Yes. Oil turns acidic over time, so it can become corrosive. Plus condensation will build up inside the motor, weakening the oil even more.

Change the oil as close to putting it away as possible. Doing this will ensure the engine is protected all winter, and that the oil will flow easier on that first cold start in the spring.
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      11-23-2015, 12:22 AM   #96
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Changing the oil at 3000 miles and 6 months would be great but the oil is not going to be acidic in that time. One year is my limit. If you are going to be doing yearly oil changes any way do it now and figure to do it again this time next year.

Don't start the engine while in storage and you won't get condensation in engine. I would give it one last good drive before turning it off for storage to make sure condensation is evaporated and no fuel is in the oil.

Also if it is 2013 and the dealer is doing free maintenance they will probably do a low mileage yearly oil change. You might want to do a oil change yourself or somehow without the dealer and get in sync with that plan.

Last edited by White 13; 11-23-2015 at 12:52 AM..
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      11-23-2015, 05:59 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White 13
Changing the oil at 3000 miles and 6 months would be great but the oil is not going to be acidic in that time. One year is my limit. If you are going to be doing yearly oil changes any way do it now and figure to do it again this time next year.

Don't start the engine while in storage and you won't get condensation in engine. I would give it one last good drive before turning it off for storage to make sure condensation is evaporated and no fuel is in the oil.

Also if it is 2013 and the dealer is doing free maintenance they will probably do a low mileage yearly oil change. You might want to do a oil change yourself or somehow without the dealer and get in sync with that plan.
Oil becomes acidic almost immediately after use, so I most definitely wouldn't leave it in if its 3000 miles old. You'll probably be fine, but why take the chance.

Doing what you suggested is correct; just time the oil change so it's right before you put it away.

As for condensation, it'll form with weather change. Anytime you open the door to your garage it can form, so imagine over 4 months.

Again, everything I've suggested in this thread is cheap insurance. I can't imagine why you wouldn't want to do it.
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      11-23-2015, 09:59 AM   #98
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Great write up, thanks. I'll be putting my car away for hibernation this weekend. I will need to pull the battery in mine however as there is no power available where being stored. Is there really no access to the trunk once the battery is disconnected?
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      11-23-2015, 01:32 PM   #99
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Telling a guy to change his 6mo 3,000 mile oil already? You guys are hilarious. Maybe you should suggest he change his rod bearings, too.
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      11-23-2015, 01:41 PM   #100
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Telling a guy to change his 6mo 3,000 mile oil already? You guys are hilarious. Maybe you should suggest he change his rod bearings, too.
just wait..
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      11-23-2015, 09:42 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb9uwu
Telling a guy to change his 6mo 3,000 mile oil already? You guys are hilarious. Maybe you should suggest he change his rod bearings, too.
This thread has really made me question both the intelligence of some owners and my own desire to contribute.

Oil that is 3,000 miles old is not a problem. Oil that is 3,000 miles old that then sits in your drain pan for 4-5 months untouched is a big issue. Oil, once again, begins to break down after a few hundred miles. The cycle of heating up and cooling off in extreme temperatures makes it worse.

This literally costs 120$ and about an hour of your time. By all means, time it right and do it right before you put the car away. Or don't do it, and let your 20,000$ motor enjoy a nice sludgy cold start in April.

It's cheap insurance. If anyone balks at spending that for an oil change, get your ass out of an M car. If anyone can't DIY, the dealer charges a half hour labor rate to do it.

My own daily 328 goes 5k miles between changes. Remember it is both the time AND distance that you have oil in the engine that matters.

But please, by all means, don't change it.
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      11-24-2015, 08:25 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoManyBlueCars View Post
This thread has really made me question both the intelligence of some owners and my own desire to contribute.

Oil that is 3,000 miles old is not a problem. Oil that is 3,000 miles old that then sits in your drain pan for 4-5 months untouched is a big issue. Oil, once again, begins to break down after a few hundred miles. The cycle of heating up and cooling off in extreme temperatures makes it worse.

This literally costs 120$ and about an hour of your time. By all means, time it right and do it right before you put the car away. Or don't do it, and let your 20,000$ motor enjoy a nice sludgy cold start in April.

It's cheap insurance. If anyone balks at spending that for an oil change, get your ass out of an M car. If anyone can't DIY, the dealer charges a half hour labor rate to do it.

My own daily 328 goes 5k miles between changes. Remember it is both the time AND distance that you have oil in the engine that matters.

But please, by all means, don't change it.
Nice story. I just changed my oil at 10k and will drive my car every day this winter (sans when it falls below 20F or so) just like I did the last two winters.
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      11-24-2015, 08:27 AM   #103
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Congrats. That's literally the first thing I said in my original post.
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      11-24-2015, 11:41 AM   #104
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Hey guys,

So I actually did change my oil despite being only 6 mo old and 3k miles. Again, I will be storing it for 3-4 months and rather it sit with fresh oil. More importantly, it is the first oil change since I bought the car. I have no idea how the previous owner drove the car before I purchased it. So its added peace of mind...

You guys will think I'm crazy but despite only having about 11,300 (not 12k) miles on it, this last oil change was its 4th so far.

Change 1: 1,546 mi 2/25/2013
Change 2: 5,163 mi 5/6/2014
Change 3: 9,040 mi 5/8/2015
Change 4: 11,278 11/21/2015

Without getting too much off topic, I stored the car this past Saturday, the same day of the oil change. If anyone cares, here was my procedure:

Changed oil
Cleaned interior with adam’s total interior cleaner and BMW leather care lotion
Cleaned outside
Top off gas with 93 and stabil
Parked in Garage with parking brake on
Inflate tires to max (50 psi)
Chocked wheels
Removed parking break
Cleaned driver side seat, door, and steering wheel
Closed air vents
Dryer sheets the floor at each seat and two boxes of baking soda
Plugged exhaust and intake with shop towels
Connected CTEK 4.3 to underhood connectors
Lock car
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      11-25-2015, 12:03 AM   #105
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What Web site
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      11-25-2015, 12:15 AM   #106
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What Web site
Sorry, I decided to deleted my post. It wasn't helpful.
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      11-25-2015, 12:18 AM   #107
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When has that mattered
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      11-25-2015, 12:30 AM   #108
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Well I try to be helpful.

And it is almost Thanksgiving. Have a happy turkey day.
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      11-25-2015, 12:43 AM   #109
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Thanks do the same.
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      11-21-2017, 01:51 PM   #110
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What's the best C-tek or BMW tender that you need at a minimum and any additional accessories?
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