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03-06-2013, 11:06 PM | #24 | |
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03-06-2013, 11:11 PM | #25 | |
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Use moderate pressure and keep touching the surface to see if its getting hot |
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03-07-2013, 12:47 AM | #27 |
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03-07-2013, 01:39 AM | #29 |
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I was curious about the griots so checked and you can indeed use a 6" pad. It really depends on the size of the backing plate. The 6" griots is actually has a backing plate less than 6". For safety reasons, you want the backing plate to be smaller than the pad.
I like 5.5" too, but if the griots has enough power for the 6" pads, I'd invest in 4" in pads and 3.5" backing plate if you want options. |
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03-07-2013, 11:25 PM | #30 |
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Isn't the FG400 pretty abrasive? One of my cars is Imola Red, which shows swirls and light scratches in the clear coat pretty easily. Should I go with something as hardcore as a Mazerna FG400, or try something a touch less abrasive?
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03-07-2013, 11:26 PM | #31 | |
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03-08-2013, 12:15 AM | #32 |
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Less abrasive for sure.
Backing plates should be universal. The lake country backing plates are popular, but not sure if there's a difference really. Lots of detailed info on the detailing forums like autogeek or autopia if you're curious. |
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03-08-2013, 12:19 AM | #33 | ||
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When correcting, always start with the least aggressive pad and compound (can use even polish) on a small area to see what works. However, BMW paint is pretty hard. For example, using a DA orbital with a white lake country (very light cut) foam pad and wolfgang's total swirl remover 3.0 is not a bad starting point. If that doesn't remove the swirls and light scratches, step it up with wolfgang and a medium cut pad such as an orange lake country pad. Remember, technique is very important too. You can go even stronger using a compound like Meguiars M105 with the same pad or a pad with more cut (i.e. yellow lake country) for deeper scratches. But remember, if you go that strong, you will be taking a good amount of clear coat and will need to go over the same area with polish to remove the fine scratches and marring the compound and cut pads left behind. I don't recommend it. Go about that step at your own risk or find a good detailer. To be safe, make several passes (4-6) before stepping up. The great thing about all the equipment available is that you can adjust your approach according to the condition of the paint, making your job easier. But being able to determine that comes with experience. Hope that helps. |
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03-08-2013, 12:20 AM | #34 |
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03-08-2013, 12:34 AM | #35 | |
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03-18-2013, 04:20 PM | #36 |
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Someone may have mentioned this, but you may consider getting a 5" BP and using 5" pads if you don't already have a bunch of 6" pads. 5" pads will get you more cut more quickly, and arguably, a better finish - plus it's easier to get in tighter areas. If I had to suggest a "go to" combo of pads/compounds for an imola red BMW, without seeing the paint I'd say...
16 oz Menz FG400 (see above, jjw2331 is right on about it). ~16oz Sonax Perfect Finish (didn't see anyone mention this one, it is incredibly easy to use and leaves a very, very nice finish... very easy to remove from the paint too, and almost no oils like some of the menz finishing polishes). Megs 205 is a good alternative. ~6 megauirs microfiber finishing pads (same mf as cutting, different backing, they dont delaminate as much) 1-2 lake country white or black polishing pads; either with PF should clean up the haze from FG400. I don't prefer the LC ones but they are easier to get than the Rupes pads. |
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03-18-2013, 04:32 PM | #37 | |
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I don't know about BMW paint being hard. Jet Black is super soft. You can mar it by putting your bare finger on clean paint. Your bare skin will scratch the paint! It is a real pain in the ass to keep in good condition and I use some elaborate wash techniques to make sure it stays good. I don't need to use anything stronger than Menzerna SIP to correct anything and most of the time I can get out a lot of stuff just using Prime Strong on a DA.
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03-18-2013, 04:55 PM | #38 |
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I meant hard as in it's tough to get scratches out. BMW clear coats need some aggressive materials to correct compared to other clear coats I've worked on. But you are right, it is soft in how easily it scratches. With my jet black, one touch with your finger will mar the paint. Some people say just looking at it swirls the paint. lol
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03-18-2013, 04:55 PM | #39 | |
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Imola is normally on the average to harder than average side of things, especially if you're doing deeper correction. |
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03-18-2013, 05:05 PM | #40 |
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03-18-2013, 05:05 PM | #41 | |
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03-20-2013, 10:19 AM | #43 | |
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04-08-2013, 12:42 AM | #44 |
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I think I'm going to give the Mazerna FG400 compound a try. Lots of good reviews with that product...1-step compound and polish which I like the sound of.
Question - has anyone tried the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 after using the Mazerna products? I need to either use a carnuba or a synthetic to protect all the good polishing work, and I like the sound of a longer lasting synthetic. Any reviews on this stuff ??? |
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