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      12-13-2016, 08:16 AM   #23
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Great DIY - Thanks for the contribution!
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      12-13-2016, 08:55 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by tdott View Post
Awesome, I should be tackling this job soon!
it should be a bit easier now!
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      12-13-2016, 09:58 AM   #25
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Excellent write up! Something about the DCT stripper sedan is just as cool as it's 6MT counterpart imo..
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      12-13-2016, 12:41 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonsi View Post
Excellent write up! Something about the DCT stripper sedan is just as cool as it's 6MT counterpart imo..
Strippers are always awesome. I'm very fortunate to have this car's clone in an E92 ZCP, but 6MT instead.

They're both built in the last few months of production of their body styles they are like brothers of a different mother lol

Last edited by SYT_Shadow; 12-13-2016 at 01:49 PM..
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      12-13-2016, 12:49 PM   #27
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This is the first RB DIY I've seen with such thorough photo documentation.

Well done!

Also, we have DIY wrench places like that in our area, but yours looks way cooler!
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      12-13-2016, 06:16 PM   #28
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Awesome!

Glad to see someone finally do one of these!

All it takes is some time, some balls and a few dollars.

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      12-13-2016, 06:30 PM   #29
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Good job and DIY ! Thanks for sharing
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      12-14-2016, 03:15 PM   #30
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Superb job, thanks for the post.

Do you think this is more challenging than installing Angel Eyes?
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      12-14-2016, 03:18 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulu Saffa View Post
Superb job, thanks for the post.

Do you think this is more challenging than installing Angel Eyes?
It's more challenging because the stakes are higher and there are more things to dismount, but there is no technical complexity. The vanos DIY I did on the E46M3 was complex because it was hard to understand, and not understanding could blow your engine.

The rod bearing job is a matter of unbolting a bunch of bolts and nuts and having a high quality torque wrench, nothing else. I think a lift is almost essential, but plenty of people have changed M3 rod bearings on jack stands so I guess they just have bigger balls than I do
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      12-14-2016, 03:32 PM   #32
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I forgot to mention that a sharp chisel and a hammer make a nice mark in the steering shaft/coupler (one hit with chisel across both parts) so you can precisely align and it doesn't come off if you spray brake cleaner on it...
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      12-14-2016, 03:36 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
It's more challenging because the stakes are higher and there are more things to dismount, but there is no technical complexity. The vanos DIY I did on the E46M3 was complex because it was hard to understand, and not understanding could blow your engine.

The rod bearing job is a matter of unbolting a bunch of bolts and nuts and having a high quality torque wrench, nothing else. I think a lift is almost essential, but plenty of people have changed M3 rod bearings on jack stands so I guess they just have bigger balls than I do
Mate, was completely joking! No comparison.
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      12-14-2016, 03:39 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
I forgot to mention that a sharp chisel and a hammer make a nice mark in the steering shaft/coupler (one hit with chisel across both parts) so you can precisely align and it doesn't come off if you spray brake cleaner on it...
I'm not disagreeing with you as that method does work nicely, but the steering rack input shaft does have a keyed tab on it which only allows the joint to be inserted in one position. Works great as long as you don't damage it somehow.

I use a bungee cord to hold the steering wheel in position during the job to keep it from making a rotation and causing a misalignment.
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      12-14-2016, 03:41 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulu Saffa View Post
Mate, was completely joking! No comparison.
Thought you might be, but then I remember the DTM style angle eyes people install and was not so sure anymore. Mine has stock AAs hehe
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      12-14-2016, 03:42 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deansbimmer View Post
I'm not disagreeing with you as that method does work nicely, but the steering rack input shaft does have a keyed tab on it which only allows the joint to be inserted in one position. Works great as long as you don't damage it somehow.

I use a bungee cord to hold the steering wheel in position during the job to keep it from making a rotation and causing a misalignment.
See, you're skilled and I'm not. Big difference.

I managed to somehow get mine off by one spline, which was more annoying than anything else. A turn of each tie rod fixed it, but I finer line would have helped my old eyes line things up better.

I even managed to get it one off the first time I reassembled the one I did Sunday but was able to catch it b/c of the fine line from the chisel. Sharpie lines are too wide for my liking.
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      12-14-2016, 03:46 PM   #37
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You can also pull the steering wheel and reinstall it a spline or two differently.
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      12-14-2016, 03:48 PM   #38
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You can also pull the steering wheel and reinstall it a spline or two differently.
While I deal with explosives at work, I prefer to stay away from them in my car. Especially lately with the high quality Takata stuff out there.
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      12-14-2016, 03:51 PM   #39
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While I deal with explosives at work, I prefer to stay away from them in my car. Especially lately with the high quality Takata stuff out there.
I have pulled so many airbags from BMWs it is not even funny... many times with the battery still connected for extra risk. Every time I try to imagine that thing blowing up in my hand...
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      12-14-2016, 03:54 PM   #40
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I remember the first time I did one of these RB jobs a some years ago.... Car was on a lift...

During the removal of the pan, oil had run back into the trans bellhousing unbeknownst to me at the time.

Job went fine, buttoned it up, put it on the ground, test drove and called the customer to pick up the next afternoon.

Next morning, found a big puddle of oil on the ground, WTF! Must have fouled up the pan gasket somehow. Cursed for a little bit then went through the ENTIRE process again to R&R the oil pan gasket... Got pan off, gasket was fine, but THEN noticed some oil in the trans bellhousing that caused the puddle. (Trans was tilted back enough on lift to pool oil and solvent, which ran out once level on the ground).

After that morning's mad dash to "fix" the car before the customer arrived, I vowed to work "smarter" from then on.
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      12-17-2016, 11:14 AM   #41
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Wow incredible DIY! Super smart cardboard / bolt pattern advice. Question, I'm thinking of getting out of my F10 and going to back to an e90, but this time an e90 M3. What mileage should I be concerned about on an older M3 as to avoid this repair? Under 50k millage?
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      12-17-2016, 11:44 AM   #42
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Epic like your S54 DIY!

How much of a pain was it to just drop the front subframe and not remove it? I found with the E46 it was a total PIA and just easier to remove the subframe and front suspension.
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      12-17-2016, 12:44 PM   #43
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fuck yes, good job!
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      12-17-2016, 01:17 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmw doubles View Post
Wow incredible DIY! Super smart cardboard / bolt pattern advice. Question, I'm thinking of getting out of my F10 and going to back to an e90, but this time an e90 M3. What mileage should I be concerned about on an older M3 as to avoid this repair? Under 50k millage?
I think they all will need it eventually, but not many are actually blowing up. If you want to play the lottery I think you'll be fine even with plenty of miles.

As it isn't a very hard job I prefer to tackle it asap. I'll be doing it to my 30k E92 as soon as it comes out of hibernation

The cardboard idea was pure genius, but it's admranger's, not mine.
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