DIY: Changing M-DCT Fluid

[Glene]

Originally Posted by rzm3

^Yes simply insert the sensor into the fill opening.

Do you have enough time to refill the trans after the engine started? I'd expect the temp will reach to 40 degrees Celsius very quick right?

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by glenpointe

Do you have enough time to refill the trans after the engine started? I'd expect the temp will reach to 40 degrees Celsius very quick right?

It doesn't go up that fast. You have time.

[Route 16]

So I had my transmission filter, sump changed along with the oil but only ordered 5L. Transmission can be jerky at times but more now on reverse. Does that mean I needed more oil?

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by Route 16

So I had my transmission filter, sump changed along with the oil but only ordered 5L. Transmission can be jerky at times but more now on reverse. Does that mean I needed more oil?

Only way to know is execute the procedure to check level.

[Route 16]

Originally Posted by AndyW

Only way to know is execute the procedure to check level.

Is checking the level via INPA tool?

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by Route 16

Is checking the level via INPA tool?

No, it's in the DIY.

[brettcp]

I just did this as my 2012 M3 just hit 100k miles. Also changed out the side filter and suction filter so I needed more fluid. Ended up draining about 5.5L out (measured once it was all out) and refilling about 5.7L or so back in (I had a minor leak from the mechatronics side cover gasket for a while, nothing major).. I had initially ordered 5L but decided to get one extra just in case - glad I did! For the fill process, I just followed the general guidelines mentioned earlier. Filled up about 4L before it started leaking out of the fill hole, hand screwed the fill plug back in (not tight) started the car, put it in Park, maintained 2000rpm for about 70-80 seconds or so, got back under the car, took the fill screw out and sure enough I was able to put another 1.7L or so in before it started leaking out again. Tightened up the fill screw, took it for a mellow test drive and rowed through the gears several times, everything seems fine.

The new fluid definitely appeared cleaner than the old fluid that came out. The old side filter material felt like it was worn out, felt like the material was falling apart.

[nekbreaker]

Originally Posted by brettcp

I just did this as my 2012 M3 just hit 100k miles. Also changed out the side filter and suction filter so I needed more fluid. Ended up draining about 5.5L out (measured once it was all out) and refilling about 5.7L or so back in (I had a minor leak from the mechatronics side cover gasket for a while, nothing major).. I had initially ordered 5L but decided to get one extra just in case - glad I did! For the fill process, I just followed the general guidelines mentioned earlier. Filled up about 4L before it started leaking out of the fill hole, hand screwed the fill plug back in (not tight) started the car, put it in Park, maintained 2000rpm for about 70-80 seconds or so, got back under the car, took the fill screw out and sure enough I was able to put another 1.7L or so in before it started leaking out again. Tightened up the fill screw, took it for a mellow test drive and rowed through the gears several times, everything seems fine.

The new fluid definitely appeared cleaner than the old fluid that came out. The old side filter material felt like it was worn out, felt like the material was falling apart.

did you replace the o ring on the cooler line when you removed them to get to side filter or no I'm doing this sat wanna know if I have to I order those ring just in case

[da jemster]

Originally Posted by nekbreaker

did you replace the o ring on the cooler line when you removed them to get to side filter or no I'm doing this sat wanna know if I have to I order those ring just in case

It's always best to change those.

[nekbreaker]

Originally Posted by da jemster

It's always best to change those.

thanks

[brettcp]

Originally Posted by nekbreaker

did you replace the o ring on the cooler line when you removed them to get to side filter or no I'm doing this sat wanna know if I have to I order those ring just in case

I did not.. probably should have, but I got under and checked for leaks 2 days after the job was done and don't have any leaking.

[bigjae1976]

I'd have the O-rings on hand in case you lose or pinch one.

[Leonardo629]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

I'd have the O-rings on hand in case you lose or pinch one.

can anyone confirm if this is the correct part# for the cooler line o-rings?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/17222245358/

[nekbreaker]

Originally Posted by Leonardo629

can anyone confirm if this is the correct part# for the cooler line o-rings?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/17222245358/

yes sir that will be the part num

[SwitChiliIce]

Originally Posted by SimiM3

I replaced my trans pan and gasket because I had a leak that I could not isolate. The gasket appears to be the type that can be reused. If it is not leaking, I don't think you have to replace it.

The pressure filter is press fit onto a circular ridge inside the housing. Look at the center of the picture below:
Attachment 1065473

There is not anything holding the filter in except the pressure from being pressed over that ridge. I tried to grip the filter but ended up using a small screw driver to leverage it out. Once I looked inside, it made sense why it didn't just slip out.

I purchased all my parts from ECS Tuning. I also use realoem to find part numbers and cross reference them with ECS.


realoem:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do

If you enter the last 7 digits of your VIN it will pull up the correct configuration for your car without having to step through the questions each time.

ECS Tuning:

www.ecstuning.com

bmw o ring part number: 17222245358

ECS o ring: http://www.ecstuning.com/ES38867/

ECS also has a kit that includes the fluid, both filters and both the drain and fill plugs The only part they did not include is the oil cooler o rings, you will need to order 2 o rings:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-M3-...ion/ES2677651/

Good luck!

Maybe it will be a tip to someone who wants to reuse the same side filter cap and O ring... I took 2 mm drill bit and drilled a small hole in the lower fetal of the star on the cap, then I put through a thin metal rope that I had in the garage and with the help of pliers gently pulled it out. Decent result, cap and O ring intact and still in good condition. Just necessary to replace the filter. Cap came out just like that smooth and no mess.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by SwitChiliIce

Maybe it will be a tip to someone who wants to reuse the same side filter cap and O ring... I took 2 mm drill bit and drilled a small hole in the lower fetal of the star on the cap, then I put through a thin metal rope that I had in the garage and with the help of pliers gently pulled it out. Decent result, cap and O ring intact and still in good condition. Just necessary to replace the filter. Cap came out just like that smooth and no mess.

For the pressure filter? Just buy a good c-clip plier
Like this...

Knipex 4821J31 Internal Angled Precision Retaining Ring Pliers 8.5-Inch

Search for that on Amazon. So easy.

[GT172I]

I'm also in the middle of this job on my M3 DCT after doing on my 335IS DCT a few months ago. I must say it's much easier the second go around even though the side pressure filter is a little different with the oil cooler lines running across the opening.

Question for you folks having already done the job though, when pulling out the Sucking Jet Pump (28107842838-white scoop blocking the suction filter) the O-ring that goes around the upper section holding it in place fell apart. Pretty sure it was already failed but I can't find a part number or reference to an equivalent sized o-ring. I would strongly prefer not to buy a new pump for $92 just to get a $1 o-ring. Anybody else run into this issue/change that o-ring during their service?

Other advice I can share having done this 1.5 times is that it's worth it to buy the OEM pressure filter. I bought two aftermarket ones planning one each for M3 & IS from ECS but they didn't fit and required razor blade trimming of the plastic. In the multiple trial and error attempts at this I mangled one irreparably and barely got the second one in. Between that and trying to get that damn snap ring out without snap ring pliers I probably spent 3+ hours on that crap. I caved and bought $20 snap ring pliers and an OEM filter for the M3 job and had it out and replaced in 20 mins including the oil lines. WAY easier!

[GT172I]

Originally Posted by GT172I

I'm also in the middle of this job on my M3 DCT after doing on my 335IS DCT a few months ago. I must say it's much easier the second go around even though the side pressure filter is a little different with the oil cooler lines running across the opening.

Question for you folks having already done the job though, when pulling out the Sucking Jet Pump (28107842838-white scoop blocking the suction filter) the O-ring that goes around the upper section holding it in place fell apart. Pretty sure it was already failed but I can't find a part number or reference to an equivalent sized o-ring. I would strongly prefer not to buy a new pump for $92 just to get a $1 o-ring. Anybody else run into this issue/change that o-ring during their service?

Other advice I can share having done this 1.5 times is that it's worth it to buy the OEM pressure filter. I bought two aftermarket ones planning one each for M3 & IS from ECS but they didn't fit and required razor blade trimming of the plastic. In the multiple trial and error attempts at this I mangled one irreparably and barely got the second one in. Between that and trying to get that damn snap ring out without snap ring pliers I probably spent 3+ hours on that crap. I caved and bought $20 snap ring pliers and an OEM filter for the M3 job and had it out and replaced in 20 mins including the oil lines. WAY easier!

Ok, so after talking to the parts guy after picking up some coolant for a flush, he confirmed they do not have an equivalent o-ring or at least he couldn't find one so I broke out the calipers and took some measurements of the old one and the groove it sits on.

ID of the groove = 22mm
Old o-ring thickness = 1.4 to 1.7mm depending on direction as it had flattened out

The 22 x 2mm I ordered originally were slightly too large and fit loose on the shaft preventing the pump from being seated. I found some Buna-N (Nitrile) O-rings in 13/16" ID x 1/16" Th (20.6 x 1.6mm) that have excellent oil resistance and temp tolerance. It fit perfectly snug for those that may find themselves in a similar situation.

[wyatth]

Can someone confirm the process if someone simply wants to top off their box or add the GTS +1L? Assuming my car has the normal fill now, must I the top off with the transmission cooled down as well? Or can it be at temp for this? Do I still need to do the part in P at 2K for 1minute?
Understand this part is pretty easy with either GTS banjo or tilting the car a bit. It's too early for me to do a full flush with fluids, but I'd like to top it off.

[TomHudson]

Good write up

[jamesbarber2]

Great post! Doing this soon and exactly what I was looking for.

[jc68]

Is there a time limit on the DCT fluid and the filters? I ordered my new and it only has 7k miles now.