Engine emits rattling noise between 2k to 3k rpm

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by Duk996

I'm sorry, this just sounds terrible. Check the oil filter for fine debris.

I agree . Keep in mind Cwleo his post and video dates from *11-3-2016*
He is from Malaysia . I think meanwhile he just dumped the car .

NOTE: From his statistics on his personal page , this was also his last post...

[Heckler]

Originally Posted by OzCraig

Hey mate,

I am getting the exact same pinging noise, rattling and intermittent tick.
The pinging noise has come on in the last 2000km and the ticking and rattling noises have ONLY come on since my change from TWS to LiquiMoly.
The LM has made my engine a heck of a lot mechanically louder and produced an intermittent tick that wasn't there before (This is identical -

)

The suggestion from my mechanic was to swap the rod bearings ASAP. So once I can get a hold of some BE shells and studs it will come out of the garage again.
I'll let you know if it resolves the noises.

Craig

Craig,

Did you end-up replacing the rod bearings and/or switching back to TWS? Did the "rattle" sound from Cwleo's video you had go away after?

Thanks!

[Cwleo]

Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium

I agree . Keep in mind Cwleo his post and video dates from *11-3-2016*
He is from Malaysia . I think meanwhile he just dumped the car .

NOTE: From his statistics on his personal page , this was also his last post...

Nope... am still around and i still have my car.

BTW... the video i posted isn't my car. Fortunately my rattle aint so bad. I can't remember where i found the video but it represents all our problem.

[Cwleo]

Originally Posted by Heckler

Craig,

Did you end-up replacing the rod bearings and/or switching back to TWS? Did the "rattle" sound from Cwleo's video you had go away after?

Thanks!

Conrod bearing issue is highly unlikely. I have changed mine recently and it did nothing to the help the rattle. Currently the rattle has reduced significantly since the spark plug change but it is still there and can be reproduce under load eg low gear hill climb.

My E90 is a 10/09 car and also has its DME software updated. However, it did nothing to help with the rattle too.

[Aviato]

Originally Posted by OzCraig

Hey mate,

I am intermittently getting the same sound.
Apparently, a potential cause is the low-pressure fuel sensor playing up.
I have that and other issues like running rich, really rough starts. I have a LPS on order, if it fixes the issue I'll let you know.

Craig

I had the same exact sound and couldn't get it to go away, this sound was really noticeable when the engine got to operating temperature, always around 2-2.5k rpm. Driving uphills would cause this sound too. It drove me crazy & was embarrassing. I thought an exhaust clamp was loose but the mechanic confirmed that they were all secure. I replaced the Rod Bearings for overall peace of mind and hoping the sound would go away, but the sound was still there. Then a few codes popped up all pointing towards replacing the low-pressure fuel sensor. Replaced the LPS and the sound has completely gone away in addition to smoother idling after a cold start. I became very aware and familiar with this sound, it was easy to pick up the patterns of when this sound could be expected. After changing out the LPS (real quick job under 30 mins) all of the situations that would usually trigger this sound no longer triggered the sound! It's been about 3 weeks now and I haven't heard the sound and I have fallen in love with my m3 all over again. Changing the LPS fixed this for me.

post #42 http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...=694148&page=2 I read this member talking about his "engine detonating when hot" & how changing the LPS fixed everything.

[Cwleo]

Thanks for this update. I havent changed my LPS yet so this could potentially be a lifeline to finally solve the issue.

Has anyone else tried changing LPS?

Originally Posted by Aviato

I had the same exact sound and couldn't get it to go away, this sound was really noticeable when the engine got to operating temperature, always around 2-2.5k rpm. Driving uphills would cause this sound too. It drove me crazy & was embarrassing. I thought an exhaust clamp was loose but the mechanic confirmed that they were all secure. I replaced the Rod Bearings for overall peace of mind and hoping the sound would go away, but the sound was still there. Then a few codes popped up all pointing towards replacing the low-pressure fuel sensor. Replaced the LPS and the sound has completely gone away in addition to smoother idling after a cold start. I became very aware and familiar with this sound, it was easy to pick up the patterns of when this sound could be expected. After changing out the LPS (real quick job under 30 mins) all of the situations that would usually trigger this sound no longer triggered the sound! It's been about 3 weeks now and I haven't heard the sound and I have fallen in love with my m3 all over again. Changing the LPS fixed this for me.

post #42 http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...=694148&page=2 I read this member talking about his "engine detonating when hot" & how changing the LPS fixed everything.

[Youngh]

Bump, interested to see if anyone else has tried this remedy as I have the same issue. Always some type of cracking/rattling noise under higher gear load esp on a hill

[evanyork]

Originally Posted by Cwleo

Hi guys,

Is this the mechanical fluttering sound everyone is experiencing (link below) Does anyone have a solution for this issue?

I'm also having a similar sound. More so when the engine is hot. My M3 also has updated rod bearings + ARP bolts - so I don't believe that is a threat considering the car has 54K miles.

Any other success stories with the LPS swap?

[BMRLVR]

Originally Posted by Longwong

Part is a rattle but also I have logged data and if you are in too high of a gear and bogging the engine the knock control system is going wild as given this engine, if rpms are too low and you are in a high gear you are loading the system and the engine will knock unless the knock control starts working overtime so not sure if its a combination of dialed back combustion as it shows on the logging data.

That is false and poor info to be giving to people. The Knock control system is equally effective at low RPM's as it is a high RPM's

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by BMRLVR

That is false and poor info to be giving to people. The Knock control system is equally effective at low RPM's as it is a high RPM's

I don't think he was suggesting that the knock control isn't effective at low rpm.

[Icecreamfoo]

Originally Posted by Aviato

I had the same exact sound and couldn't get it to go away, this sound was really noticeable when the engine got to operating temperature, always around 2-2.5k rpm. Driving uphills would cause this sound too. It drove me crazy & was embarrassing. I thought an exhaust clamp was loose but the mechanic confirmed that they were all secure. I replaced the Rod Bearings for overall peace of mind and hoping the sound would go away, but the sound was still there. Then a few codes popped up all pointing towards replacing the low-pressure fuel sensor. Replaced the LPS and the sound has completely gone away in addition to smoother idling after a cold start. I became very aware and familiar with this sound, it was easy to pick up the patterns of when this sound could be expected. After changing out the LPS (real quick job under 30 mins) all of the situations that would usually trigger this sound no longer triggered the sound! It's been about 3 weeks now and I haven't heard the sound and I have fallen in love with my m3 all over again. Changing the LPS fixed this for me.

post #42 http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...=694148&page=2 I read this member talking about his "engine detonating when hot" & how changing the LPS fixed everything.

Adding to the discussion: changing the Low Pressure Fuel Sensor (part # 13537614317) did NOT cure the knocking, at least in my case.

I have the same knocking sound described by everyone - easily replicated in high-gear/lower RPM situations when loading the engine, both on the street and the highway. And like many owners, my car has never threw a code. Mike Benvo said most S65 M3s he's come across do this to a certain extent, some more so than others, and mine is one of the worst case he's seen. He took a phone clip once, just driving down the street leaving the DCT in D mode which upshifts sooner in lower RPM range, and it was knocking like a mini machine gun.

Over the years I have tried putting in new plugs (at least twice) and new coils, each attempt would alleviate the symptom, but not completely solve it. Then the knocking would return and progressively get worse again; I can also feel the engine would become less refined during harder/WOT pulls. This happened on both stock ECU mapping as well as BPM's Stage 1 software.

My fix (for now, anyway) is I took Benvo's offer and let him further adjusted the timing a little bit. I'm no engine expert so don't know exactly what he did, but so far the revised ECU mapping has worked very well, almost 99.9% knock free, and the engine is butter smooth once again through most of the rev ranges I travel in (<7K).

Will continue to troubleshoot this though. Next up is to replace the O2 sensors. If I ever find a fix will report back.

[dkexige]

Subscribing to the thread as my car makes this noise as well. I don't have any additional insights to add yet though.

[Solo_M_Tech]

This sounds like pre-ignition rattle associated with poor fuel quality/ lower octane.

just food for thought.

[evanyork]

Bump - hoping to hear some success stories.

[Dave07997S]

Originally Posted by ImStig

Hi all,

Since about 2k miles, my M3\'s engine makes a rattle noise between 2k to 3k rpm for higher gears (3rd to 6th, more pronounce on higher gears) when I try to accelerate harder on those gears. The rattle is more pronounced with the power bottom on. On the other hand, no rattles in 1st or 2nd gear, or neutral. The sound emits from the driver side of the engine bay it seems.

This is the first v8 for me, and I was wondering if this is common? My transmission is 6mt.

Thanks for the guidance here!

Nevermind

[Cwleo]

Does anyone think that this rattle may be coming from the gearbox instead of engine bay? the sounds seem to be emanating at the driver position rather than upfront in the engine.... just a thought.

i have used an octane booster to up it to about 100ron but sound is still there. and also noticed the sound is more prevalent on a hot day.

mystery continues....

[TopMarc51]

Old thread, but 100% certain that in my case, this was caused by the rattling of the drive pins on the VANOS high pressure oil pump.

As has been well documented, the E46 M3 has an issue with the drive pins and engagement holes that allow the exhaust cam to drive the high pressure oil pump used for the VANOS system. My 2005.5 E46 M3 had 110K on it (all miles were babied and not raped) with the engine exhibiting exactly the issues described (rattle between 2000 and 3000 - peaking at 2500) when driven under load in 6th.

One day the rattle changed (became louder with a bad flutter). I replaced the belts, tensioners and the viscous fan clutch (needed doing anyway) with no change in noise.

Then turned my attention to stripping the VANOS and there it was, one of the drive pegs on the VANOS pump had sheared. Managed to pull it out before it dropped into the timing gear chain.

I replaced the oil pump drive sprocket, the oil pump filter and all VANOS teflon seals. I had the pump impeller machined with two smaller holes at 90 degrees and BINGO, rattle stopped almost completely.

My advice to you: if your engine rattles between 2000 and 3000 in 6th, rebuild your VANOS now before you shear the pins on the oil pump which has the potential to grenade your engine.

I was lucky, I hope you are too.

Marc

[Product]

Originally Posted by TopMarc51

Old thread, but 100% certain that in my case, this was caused by the rattling of the drive pins on the VANOS high pressure oil pump.

As has been well documented, the E46 M3 has an issue with the drive pins and engagement holes that allow the exhaust cam to drive the high pressure oil pump used for the VANOS system. My 2005.5 E46 M3 had 110K on it (all miles were babied and not raped) with the engine exhibiting exactly the issues described (rattle between 2000 and 3000 - peaking at 2500) when driven under load in 6th.

One day the rattle changed (became louder with a bad flutter). I replaced the belts, tensioners and the viscous fan clutch (needed doing anyway) with no change in noise.


Then turned my attention to stripping the VANOS and there it was, one of the drive pegs on the VANOS pump had sheared. Managed to pull it out before it dropped into the timing gear chain.

I replaced the oil pump drive sprocket, the oil pump filter and all VANOS teflon seals. I had the pump impeller machined with two smaller holes at 90 degrees and BINGO, rattle stopped almost completely.

My advice to you: if your engine rattles between 2000 and 3000 in 6th, rebuild your VANOS now before you shear the pins on the oil pump which has the potential to grenade your engine.

I was lucky, I hope you are too.

Marc

Here is a pic of my passenger side engine. Where are you talking about?

[IMG]https://i1183.photobucket.com/albums...psnoujnbar.png[/IMG]