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12-16-2018, 11:11 PM | #1 |
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This was supposed to be my DIY S65 engine rebuild post.... fail
Can a mod move this to the engine section?
A few months ago my 2011 M3 locked up during acceleration. The car would restart after a bit of cool down. To make a long story short, the pan was pulled and the #1 rod bearing was found to be spun. I decided to remove the engine and replace the damaged crank and rods. Engine has 70,020 miles. 2011 model Engine is on the stand.. Hard work is done [url=https://flic.kr/p/2ce3cee]S65[ Getting excited.. Everything is smooth so far S65 Pan off, no debris inside. Looks clean S65 There is the offender S65 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/147133240@N07/] Pull the bedplate and what do we have here.. Surprise! S65 by S65 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/147133240@N07/] A shot of all of the mains S65 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/147133240@N07/] Damage to the main bearing journal, what appears to be a hairline crack. S65 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/147133240@N07/] Any advice on where to go from here? Last edited by 2006325i; 12-17-2018 at 01:09 AM.. |
12-17-2018, 07:56 AM | #4 |
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soooo that 03 cobra on welds tho....
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12-17-2018, 08:20 AM | #5 |
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Sorry to hear of your misfortune but yes, this is what anyone should expect to see when opening an engine with a spun bearing. Main failures always crack the bearing web like that. Being able to start after a cooldown is another trade mark hint to main failure.
I touched on this in another thread with someone looking for a blown engine to rebuild for fun... It doesn't work out 90% of the time. Your engine appears to be a main-first failure where the main failed and spun first and the resulting lack of oil to the rods caused them to spin too. Since you can't really hear a main failure there's no indication of trouble until it takes out the rod bearings and they start knocking. It can also work the other way around where the rods fail first and the heat can cause main failure unless the engine is stopped. |
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12-17-2018, 08:41 AM | #6 | |
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12-17-2018, 11:47 AM | #7 | |
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I've considered experimenting with repairing these but haven't been keeping the dead blocks. If you want to ship it to me I can use it towards the effort. |
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12-17-2018, 12:24 PM | #8 |
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the hairline cracks are painful, there goes the block
deansbimmer I thought the block could not be welded due to the high silica content |
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12-17-2018, 01:11 PM | #9 |
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JB Weld that bitch and send it.
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12-17-2018, 02:19 PM | #10 |
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In a perfect world that is correct. For a performance or precision build I would never advise. For an average or budget rebuild I think it would work. These blocks are around 7% silicon content. If you can have matching alloy to fill the weld puddle and don't introduce too much heat, it would be possible. Even standard 4043 rod has around 5-6% silicon but there are other component ratios like magnesium that are off. I've welded holes and other damage in these blocks before with success, just never a main saddle. I'd like to try, and then have it line bored/honed.
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12-17-2018, 05:30 PM | #11 |
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This is pretty much exactly what happened to me.
I ended up getting a complete new motor from a wrecker, that block is done. |
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